Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[homestead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft The last couple of days we started noticing water in the bottom of our refrigerator and ice building up on the floor of the freezer. So my wife and I spent the afternoon pulling the freezer apart and thawing out the ice buildup that was blocking the freezer drain tube. It took about three hours pouring hot water and heating things with a blow dryer before the drain tube was clear again. Everything is back together and seems to be working now, but we will be keeping an eye on it the next few days.

My refrigerator has this problem too but takes several years to show up. I think the problem is the freezer goes into defrost mode and and the coils ice melts off and instead of all the water going down the drain tube some of it freezes until eventually the drain is frozen over. I think there is a repair kit available to make a permanent fix. Or you can wrap a piece of copper wire around the coil and the other end going part way down the drain tube. That way when the coils heat up the copper wire heats too and keeps the drain open. Next time mine leaks I will try the wire trick.

[Souschef]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft The last couple of days we started noticing water in the bottom of our refrigerator and ice building up on the floor of the freezer. So my wife and I spent the afternoon pulling the freezer apart and thawing out the ice buildup that was blocking the freezer drain tube. It took about three hours pouring hot water and heating things with a blow dryer before the drain tube was clear again. Everything is back together and seems to be working now, but we will be keeping an eye on it the next few days.

We have an Amana with the same problem. There was a problem with the drain tube design and it had to be replaced. I had a service technician do it.

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by homestead My refrigerator has this problem too but takes several years to show up. I think the problem is the freezer goes into defrost mode and and the coils ice melts off and instead of all the water going down the drain tube some of it freezes until eventually the drain is frozen over. I think there is a repair kit available to make a permanent fix.

Our Whirlpool ET1CHMXKB03 fridge doesn't seem to have that defective drain. Ours is a straight tube from the freezer to the drain pain.

We have had our refrigerator about 16 years now and this is the first time we've experienced this problem. I did replace the ice maker about 10 years ago, and recently replaced a couple cracked door bins. Otherwise it has been problem free.

[homestead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft Our Whirlpool ET1CHMXKB03 fridge doesn't seem to have that defective drain. Ours is a straight tube from the freezer to the drain pain. We have had our refrigerator about 16 years now and this is the first time we've experienced this problem. I did replace the ice maker about 10 years ago, and recently replaced a couple cracked door bins. Otherwise it has been problem free.

Ours is also a Whirlpool 18 years old with straight tube from freezer to the pan. It has frozen over about 2-3 times in 18 years.
I think some of the melting water is always freezing but it takes a long time for the ice to build up enough for the water to overflow into the fridge section.

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by homestead Ours is also a Whirlpool 18 years old with straight tube from freezer to the pan. It has frozen over about 2-3 times in 18 years. I think some of the melting water is always freezing but it takes a long time for the ice to build up enough for the water to overflow into the fridge section.

I'm actually surprised the tube isn't always frozen over. Draining water in freezing temperatures. Hmm...

So far we haven't seen any new ice or water building up, but it still seems like the refrigerator is running a lot. Maybe we're just noticing it more since we're paying attention, or there may be other problems with the fridge. I guess we'll see...

[Ronstar]

Lawn sweeper stopped picking up leaves, so I replaced some gears that looked worn and now everything works fine

[Mr._Graybeard]

A brake line blew out on my 2005 Ford Ranger. While I was inspecting the damage, I noticed that one of the brake drums was quite greasy. An axle seal had failed, leaking smelly differential oil everywhere.

I spent the next 10 days crawling under the truck making repairs. This being Wisconsin, all the brake line fittings were seized up solid.

The axle seal was relatively easy. Drained fluid, unhitched and removed axle shaft, pried out old seal, installed new one, reassembly the reverse of removal.

The brake lines were a pain. After judicious application of heat (the fuel tank was right nearby) I got all the old lines out up to the intermediate line. Installed a new hose with distribution block and replaced the old rear lines with NiCopp piping. If you ever need to bend up a replacement brake line, this stuff is a godsend. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...kaAhu3EALw_wcB

[Montecfo]

On my 2003 BMW 530 I recently experienced the "trifecta" of dashboard lights: ABS, Traction Control, and brake warning lights all illuminated.

I thought I might be in for an expensive repair but after some research I found I could remove the ABS module (ok, needed a TORX screwdriver that I did not have) and send it off to be rebuilt. Apparently some of the connections fail at about my car's mileage due to heat.

Well I sent my ABS module off to be rebuilt, reinstalled and the lights cleared. Cost $179.

Good thing since it was time for safety inspection, which it passed.

[Telly]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard A brake line blew out on my 2005 Ford Ranger. While I was inspecting the damage, I noticed that one of the brake drums was quite greasy. An axle seal had failed, leaking smelly differential oil everywhere. I spent the next 10 days crawling under the truck making repairs. This being Wisconsin, all the brake line fittings were seized up solid. The axle seal was relatively easy. Drained fluid, unhitched and removed axle shaft, pried out old seal, installed new one, reassembly the reverse of removal. The brake lines were a pain. After judicious application of heat (the fuel tank was right nearby) I got all the old lines out up to the intermediate line. Installed a new hose with distribution block and replaced the old rear lines with NiCopp piping. If you ever need to bend up a replacement brake line, this stuff is a godsend. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...kaAhu3EALw_wcB

Good job! I don't envy you! I paid my dues working on rusty cars in an unheated detached garage, and outside before that. Moved to the land of no salt over 30 years ago, brought 2 cars with us. After I replaced those, no more salty cars for me! No more wondering if every bolt was going to snap, or its head rusted too badly. Or finding new holes in places they aren't supposed to be.

I worked with a guy about 1974, that on his way to work on 3 different days his old rusty 60s Pontiac dropped onto the pavement while driving, completely separating from the car: gas tank; side mirror; door! The window was down in the door, and survived. The door was roped back on, not to be opened again. The gas tank went back up again, a bit dented but still usable. The side mirror, glass broken, could not go on again, as there was no solid metal anywhere near where it used to attach. A couple years earlier, a girl was driving her boyfriend's 56 Chevy to work. Collector car? Ha! Except for the transmission tunnel, the front floor pan was gone, and two road signs were face-down with some sheet metal screws on the edges to hold them in place. We were a bit concerned for her about the remaining steel around the mounting points for the front bench seat...

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft it still seems like the refrigerator is running a lot.

Unfortunately, our fridge is STILL running. I replaced the defrost timer and defrost thermostat, which helped with defrosting, but it's still running all the time. I think I've tracked it down to a bad temperature control, and am expecting the new part on Monday. Hopefully that will fix it.

If that wasn't enough, the ice maker just quit working too, so I have a new one of those on order.

It's kind of a pain to fuss with all of this just before Thanksgiving, but at least it's still cooling. $150 worth of parts is still cheaper than a new $650 fridge.

A part of me still wonders if this a side effect of the power surge that took out my subwoofer, stereo receiver, and several GFCI outlets several months ago.

[Sunset]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft Unfortunately, our fridge is STILL running. I replaced the defrost timer and defrost thermostat, which helped with defrosting, but it's still running all the time. I think I've tracked it down to a bad temperature control, and am expecting the new part on Monday. Hopefully that will fix it. If that wasn't enough, the ice maker just quit working too, so I have a new one of those on order. It's kind of a pain to fuss with all of this just before Thanksgiving, but at least it's still cooling. $150 worth of parts is still cheaper than a new $650 fridge. A part of me still wonders if this a side effect of the power surge that took out my subwoofer, stereo receiver, and several GFCI outlets several months ago.

I've heard of power surges destroying appliances.

I hate repair situations like this, where it's one thing after another, and in the end you are left with an old thing and the repairs cost a big percentage of the price.

[mountainsoft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset I've heard of power surges destroying appliances. I hate repair situations like this, where it's one thing after another, and in the end you are left with an old thing and the repairs cost a big percentage of the price.

Our power surge was actually last November 2019, when a wind storm blew a large tree onto the power lines and pulled over two poles. Several of our GFCI outlets were burned out, but I hadn't noticed any other problems. Then last month I noticed my subwoofer wasn't working. I replaced the fuse in that only to discover the subwoofer amp in my receiver had failed too. Now just a few weeks later the fridge starts acting up. It may just be coincidence, but it seems odd so many things are failing around the same time.

The fridge has been a bit of a head scratcher, but I think I'm slowly tracking down the problems. I'm not sure what happened with the ice maker, it was working fine until I pulled it out to clear the freezer drain. I took it apart but couldn't find anything wrong with it, but it stopped making ice. Everything tests successfully, but it just doesn't work right.

I was tempted to just get a new fridge, but it seems all the new models are a couple inches deeper than our current fridge. So that would mean redoing the plumbing valve behind the fridge to gain some extra room. Someday, but right now I have other priorities.

I prefer to fix old things whenever possible. I repaired our old washer and dryer numerous times over a 35+ year period until the drum finally rusted through. Same with my old 1976 Rabbit I had for 35+ years.

[NW-Bound]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft I prefer to fix old things whenever possible. I repaired our old washer and dryer numerous times over a 35+ year period until the drum finally rusted through. Same with my old 1976 Rabbit I had for 35+ years.

I tend to do that. I hate to throw things away that still work. It's not just money, but the thought of landfills full of still useful stuff.

I kept the pool pump running for many years, and it got noisier and noisier all the time. Then one day, it was spinning without moving any water. The impeller was so worn out.

The new variable-speed pump I put in was so nice and quiet. And the power consumption was a lot less. The electricity that I paid with the old pump over the years may be higher than the price of the new pump, plus all that noise pollution. Oh man!

So, now I try better to see if something really needs to be saved.

[Time2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset I've heard of power surges destroying appliances. I hate repair situations like this, where it's one thing after another, and in the end you are left with an old thing and the repairs cost a big percentage of the price.

After hurricane Michael, we lost power for 8 days. I had damage to three items, my computer HD was corrupted, the radio near the computer was damaged and the flourescent table lamp above my computer didn't work. I thought was odd that a flourescent light was damaged! Also on the same outlet was a TV, a modem, a router, two printers and a computer audio system that had no damage.

[Telly]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset I've heard of power surges destroying appliances.

When we renovated our kitchen, I mounted a power strip with integral surge suppressor on the wall behind the new refrigerator. The old refrigerator was electromechanical. The new one had electronics. Did not want to take a chance. We have had lightning surges. I mounted the power strip so it took a long arm to reach it, in case any little grandkids tried to reach behind seeing a little red rocker switch. All desktop computer stuff and support equipment is on UPS with surge protection. Years ago, fixed a large built-in microwave that a lightning surge caused the MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) to conduct, it's wired in parallel from hot to neutral. And replaced the fuse that it blows when the MOV conducts and sacrificially destroys itself. The fuse is ahead of it, protecting the guts of the appliance.

[Music Lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset I've heard of power surges destroying appliances..

A power surge from a lightning strike on a hydro pole close to their house fried the electronic control panel in my parent's furnace. Their computer which was on at the time was unaffected.

[travelover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountainsoft ......... It may just be coincidence, but it seems odd so many things are failing around the same time.......

Have you checked voltage at various outlets on either side of the transformer? Could be a loose neutral wire in the service box or at the pole.

[Mr._Graybeard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Telly Good job! I don't envy you! I paid my dues working on rusty cars in an unheated detached garage, and outside before that. Moved to the land of no salt over 30 years ago, brought 2 cars with us. After I replaced those, no more salty cars for me! No more wondering if every bolt was going to snap, or its head rusted too badly. Or finding new holes in places they aren't supposed to be. I worked with a guy about 1974, that on his way to work on 3 different days his old rusty 60s Pontiac dropped onto the pavement while driving, completely separating from the car: gas tank; side mirror; door! The window was down in the door, and survived. The door was roped back on, not to be opened again. The gas tank went back up again, a bit dented but still usable. The side mirror, glass broken, could not go on again, as there was no solid metal anywhere near where it used to attach. A couple years earlier, a girl was driving her boyfriend's 56 Chevy to work. Collector car? Ha! Except for the transmission tunnel, the front floor pan was gone, and two road signs were face-down with some sheet metal screws on the edges to hold them in place. We were a bit concerned for her about the remaining steel around the mounting points for the front bench seat...

My dad owned a 1995 Ford Taurus from new until he quit driving in 2005. It never saw a winter, but it spent the winter months in a carport in Lake Worth, Fla. I don't know if it was the ocean nearby, but that car had rust! Brake lines, oil pan, gas tank... I drove it as a winter beater for a couple seasons. It was exciting having the brake line pop when I was coming down a freeway off ramp.

[Ed_The_Gypsy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Montecfo On my 2003 BMW 530 I recently experienced the "trifecta" of dashboard lights: ABS, Traction Control, and brake warning lights all illuminated. I thought I might be in for an expensive repair but after some research I found I could remove the ABS module (ok, needed a TORX screwdriver that I did not have) and send it off to be rebuilt. Apparently some of the connections fail at about my car's mileage due to heat. Well I sent my ABS module off to be rebuilt, reinstalled and the lights cleared. Cost $179. Good thing since it was time for safety inspection, which it passed.

Hmm!
I have a similar but intermittent problem with my 2009 Vibe (=Toyota Matrix).
Figured it was a dirty or wet connector.

[JoeWras]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed_The_Gypsy Hmm! I have a similar but intermittent problem with my 2009 Vibe (=Toyota Matrix). Figured it was a dirty or wet connector.

DW's got a 2009 Vibe. I need to mark this converstation.

Hey Ed_The_Gypsy: watch out for your power steering. DW's motor went kaput.