Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

[candrew]

Replaced the battery in my MacBook Pro Retina yesterday. The replacement battery, pentalobe drivers, and magnetic project mat set me back $150. The local Mac store charges $450 for battery replacement. It is a very tedious process that took me 2 hours total to complete. Saving $300 put a smile on my face!

[NW-Bound]

I received the pump drive hybrid module, installed it and the pump ran great like new.

Hayward has a new version of my pump, and it costs $1420 before tax. On the Web, some distributors still have the electronic subassembly for my discontinued pump, and they want $1149 for it. Outrageous. Hayward used to charge $700, which was also outrageous. I am glad to be able to repair it with a $30 part.

I ordered the IGBT output module from a US seller on eBay and paid a higher price than from Chinese sellers because I wanted it fast. I have just ordered the same on AliExpress, and paid $12 including shipping. It will be stocked as a spare, because the module may burn out again. The mechanical design of this pump is excellent, but it appears that the output drive electronic module made by International Rectifier (Infineon now) is either short-lived or undersized for the motor.

One thing of note: when programmed to drive the motor at 1800 rpm, the universal Huanyang VFD draws 425W, but the Hayward drive draws 350W. I guess the difference is due to the original VFD being specifically tuned for this motor, hence more efficient. The 3-phase permanent magnet motor has a plate saying it's made by A.O. Smith. Interesting! I thought A.O. Smith only makes water heaters.


PS. Prior to this brutish 2.7-HP pump, I had a smaller 1.5-HP variable-speed pump, which also had its electronics fried. This one lasted only about 1.5 years, and the failure was due to water getting inside the electronic casing. I did not throw it away, but kept it for possible repair, and only got to it just now after 6 years!

This smaller pump is nowhere as well built as the current pump. I will need a special tool to remove a couple of long bolts to remove the electronics to examine, and also to get access to the leads of the motor. If I cannot repair the electronics, will try to drive it with the Huanyang universal VFD. I guess it will be a spare pump once I get it working.

[anothercog]

I was about to replace my 16 year old steel Nexgrill LP grill but on closer inspection it is still in great shape. The only things need to be replaced are two rusted burners. I ordered replacement parts for the burners and flame tamers. Now I just need to add a fair amount of elbow grease to clean it up. Will save me $900 over buying a new one.

[doneat54]

Replaced the transmission drive belt on one of the Scotts/John Deere lawn tractors today (we have one at each of our two homes). Drained the gas and oil and was able to jack the front end up off the floor a good bit before grabbing the front axle and flipping it up on it's end with some blocks on the floor. Thank God for Youtube videos. NO WAY I would ever have even thought to try this with it on all 4 wheels. Not all that hard, and one YT video had a great trick to use a dog leash to stretch and release a clutch spring. Ended up using a ratched cargo strap (my own idea) two stretch the spring back to it's perch with the new belt on.


In New England, another 3-4 weeks before anything gets green and might need some mowing. For now, the tractor is a trailer tow'er to collect brush and branches until burn season ends May 1.

[Boho]

I totally got the order of things backwards with my flashlight. I repaired it last, after buying a replacement first and getting the company to send me a replacement second. So now I'll have two extra flashlights in addition to all the backups I already had.

It looks like the problem was a solder connection that was used as a structural element. When you screw the battery cover on it rubs against two pins. The pins have springy ends like the spring bars for a watch band, but still, they're soldered to a circuit board that's soldered to another circuit board and there's pressure on all that. The connection between the two boards easily broke when I pulled the first one out, if it wasn't already broken before. The connection between one of the pins and solder glob on the opposite side of that board didn't look so good either and was blackish. I resoldered everything and it worked.

It's a 3-AA Nite Ize Radiant flashlight, which it looks like they don't make anymore so I guess they're sending my their mini 1-AA version.

[Sunset]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boho I totally got the order of things backwards with my flashlight. I repaired it last, after buying a replacement first and getting the company to send me a replacement second. So now I'll have two extra flashlights in addition to all the backups I already had. It looks like the problem was a solder connection that was used as a structural element. When you screw the battery cover on it rubs against two pins. The pins have springy ends like the spring bars for a watch band, but still, they're soldered to a circuit board that's soldered to another circuit board and there's pressure on all that. The connection between the two boards easily broke when I pulled the first one out, if it wasn't already broken before. The connection between one of the pins and solder glob on the opposite side of that board didn't look so good either and was blackish. I resoldered everything and it worked. It's a 3-AA Nite Ize Radiant flashlight, which it looks like they don't make anymore so I guess they're sending my their mini 1-AA version.

I also had a fragile designed flashlight.
I unscrewed the bulb end, and when I did the soldered wires broke. A terrible design that probably helps them sell more flashlights
There is no warning to NOT unscrew the bulb end.

[Music Lover]

Yesterday after painting the kitchen I replaced some 50 year old plugs. Today I replaced the plugs in the living room plus the switch for the ceiling light. I think now every single plug and switch in my house is new, as well as 98% of the wiring.

[lrip]

Ordered replacement roller wheels and track for a sliding door that is not very old, but is out of warranty. Heavy, heavy door. Had to remove to get the roller size. If this doesn't work, going to french doors. Tired of screwing with it.

[Surewhitey]

Not for me, but a client's dishwasher went caput after the ice storm. Had to break out the old one as the tile floors were laid after the fact & locked it in. Re-laid the tile after installation of the new one... Beat down.

[Out-to-Lunch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surewhitey Had to break out the old one as the tile floors were laid after the fact & locked it in.

That is almost criminal! Sorry for your troubles.

[Surewhitey]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Out-to-Lunch That is almost criminal! Sorry for your troubles.

Right? Insult to injury was the particle board that expanded to 1.5 thickness after soaking up the moisture. Who put particle board on top of 1x6 subfloor in a 60's pier and beam? They're doing a remodel in a couple of years, so it's a real "patch job".

[travelover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surewhitey Right? Insult to injury was the particle board that expanded to 1.5 thickness after soaking up the moisture. .....

Seems like using particle board anywhere is just short of vandalism.

[finnski1]

Not so affectionately known around here as "fallaparticle board.'

[38Chevy454]

My string trimmer had the fuel inlet filter fall off the hose inside the tank. Which of course led to disassembly of half of the trimmer engine end to get the tank loose and work the hose into position to reattach the filter to the hose piece inside the small fuel tank. The design of it uses the filter to also weigh down the hose inside the tank, mine was cutting out with 3/4 tank of fuel. Simple 30 second diagnosis, but 30 minutes of labor to get it actually fixed. No cost except time. Yard is all trimmed up and looking nice.

[doneat54]

Well I haven't repaired it yet......but figured I'd post and see if anyone has any ideas. Lots of gearheads on here ....



I trailered my 20 ton log splitter up to the lake house today... this after just having had used it yesterday. And older unit (weighs a TON!) with a recently replaced B&S engine. Thing has always started on the first pull since I bought it used maybe 5 years ago.

Tow it down to the shore line to try splitting some hemlock we dropped last year, pulled the handle/rope out about 8" and it just locked up. Then I notice gas dripping out of the muffler. Really puzzling, until I thought about it for a while. I had it strapped into the trailer and for some weird reason didn't have the "foot" under the tow hitch end, so it was tilted down maybe 5-8 degrees or so. I had a hunch, so I took the spark plug out, pulled the handle and shot gas out of the spark plug hole about 7 feet hitting the side of the barn. Then took the oil check dipstick and a thin looking oil gushed out. Yep, the crankcase flooded with gas. So I pulled the oil drain plug and tilted it up with a pan underneath. Left the plug out.



So the question is, was just leaving it tilted on the trailer for a few hours the cause? The gas tank is higher than the engine so gravity feed, no fuel pump. Tilting the way it was, the tank was a little high still.


But Googling this, I guess these engines are known for stuck float needles, and thinking it through, that is probably the only way you could fill the crankcase from the gas tank. Luckily, there is a fuel shut off valve on it which I closed before letting it air out.


Don't have the best set of tools up here, so was thinking of just filling it with oil, replacing the spark plug and seeing if it will start. If it has a permanently stuck (open) needle valve, it may run, then choke itself to death with fuel. Or, maybe running, the needle will behave itself and I should just get in the habit of shutting off the fuel valve after I use it each time... at least until I can get it home and pull the carb.

I suppose it could have been leaking into the case since yesterday actually.

Thoughts?

[jazz4cash]

I would remove the float bowl, see how it’s working and clean it up a bit. I’ve had pretty good luck with cleaning them up but have also replaced the float assy or bought complete carb from eBay. The carb kits and parts are reasonably priced even for genuine parts but the complete carb I bought (Chinese knock off) was cheaper than the kit, bolted on and worked great. Newer small engines just not built to be repaired.

[finnski1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jazz4cash I would remove the float bowl, see how it’s working and clean it up a bit. I’ve had pretty good luck with cleaning them up but have also replaced the float assy or bought complete carb from eBay. The carb kits and parts are reasonably priced even for genuine parts but the complete carb I bought (Chinese knock off) was cheaper than the kit, bolted on and worked great. Newer small engines just not built to be repaired.

I did the exact same thing when my generator did this. Bought a carb for cheap and replaced it and it works fine. Tried fussing with the float to no avail.

[38Chevy454]

Was fuel valve left open? Especially when towing, and the angle, it let the float bounce around and gas to continue flowing into the bowl; and subsequently into the engine. Some gas leaked through the rings into crankcase.
Just as you did, leave spark plug out and drain the gas contaminated oil. Replace with new oil, put plug back in. Should be fine with no lasting effects. You can't pull the starter cord strong enough to actually bend or damage anything.

[doneat54]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38Chevy454 Was fuel valve left open? Especially when towing, and the angle, it let the float bounce around and gas to continue flowing into the bowl; and subsequently into the engine. Some gas leaked through the rings into crankcase. Just as you did, leave spark plug out and drain the gas contaminated oil. Replace with new oil, put plug back in. Should be fine with no lasting effects. You can't pull the starter cord strong enough to actually bend or damage anything.

Yeah it was left open, and always was at home when I stored it. I think for now I'll just refill it, then instead of cutting ignition off when done, just shut the fuel valve and let it empty it's bowl and stall.

Maybe replace the oil again after using it a few times just to be sure.

Depending on the crank position too, if the needle valve stuck open, and the intake valve was open, it would dribble fill the cylinder, then leaks past the rings, etc.

To the other comments about just replacing the carb, I agree. I used to fuss and cuss at my 2 cycle blowers, trimmers, chainsaws when they get finicky. No I just go online and buy and entire carb and some spare parts from China for $12, and they run fine for another 3-5 years.

[travelover]

I put myself through engineering school working on small engines. I'd just smell the oil for gas, change if contaminated, remove spark plug and pull it over until gas quits coming out the plug hole, then reinstall plug and start it. It just got super flooded from bouncing around and sitting at an angle. If the carb continues to leak, replace the needle valve (and seat if applicable).