Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

[Out of Steam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by freedomatlast Yea, that was long gone by 1969 and 1970. I believe 1966 was the last year for single reservoir master cylinders.

My father went straight from 1966 to 1979, so I've never had hands on with any car in between and didn't know when it changed.

[Qs Laptop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by freedomatlast Yea, that was long gone by 1969 and 1970. I believe 1966 was the last year for single reservoir master cylinders.

I can confirm that 1966 Mopars had a single reservoir master cylinder. I inherited a 1966 Chrysler Newport Custom from my uncle. One night (1977?) as I was coasting down a slight incline I went to put on the brakes and my foot pushed the brake pedal and it went to the floor. I quickly recovered by downshifting from D to 2 and eventually 1 while applying the emergency brake. The road curved at the bottom of the incline and there was a large parking lot which I entered. Eventually, the car came to rest.

Turns out it was a blown brake line. That's when I discovered 1966 Mopars only had a single reservoir master cylinder, and as I recall they are frighteningly small.

[skyking1]

The parts guy said the forklift was leaking and had a bad hose. He got it half right, the hose was bad but that was not the leak. One of the main lift cylinders was all wet, so I took it out today. Tomorrow we will see if we can repair it ourselves.

[Sunset]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 The electrical part is easy if your sump uses an external connected float like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superior...494794#overlay I added a multi-tap to that plug, plugged a 5V charger and the pump into that, so I get a 5V signal to the micro-controller when the pump is running. Otherwise, you need to sense the current to the pump, or add a separate switch to the float on the pump to detect when it has flipped on/off. ...

Thanks for you creative idea.

I have this kind of float switch, but it works the same way by piggy backing so I'm sure it would work as well (let me know if I'm wrong).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...SWPB/205618058

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset Thanks for you creative idea. I have this kind of float switch, but it works the same way by piggy backing so I'm sure it would work as well (let me know if I'm wrong). https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...SWPB/205618058

Right, same concept. I just don't like those 'swinging' floats, I've had them move around and get hung up on the side of the pit. The vertical type ar more reliable in that regard, IMO.

-ERD50

[6miths]

Did tons of things at DS1's 'new' house. Built in 1958 and widowed older woman in it alone for many years. Tons to do. Put in some new light fixtures and outlets. Was shocked by some of the wiring. Also recaulked main floor bathtub and basement shower. One of my least favourite 'repairs'. Does look good when redone at least. And hey - no leaks!

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6miths Did tons of things at DS1's 'new' house. Built in 1958 and widowed older woman in it alone for many years. Tons to do. Put in some new light fixtures and outlets. Was shocked by some of the wiring. Also recaulked main floor bathtub and basement shower. One of my least favourite 'repairs'. Does look good when redone at least. And hey - no leaks!

You should always flip the breaker on the circuit and test it to avoid shocks.





-ERD50

[JoeWras]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 You should always flip the breaker on the circuit and test it to avoid shocks. -ERD50

Ha ha ha! Now I get it!

But seriously... When approaching a home older than say, 1980, be really careful with electric wiring.

One thing I discovered the hard way is the concept of sharing neutrals. This is even more common in conduit systems, but can also happen with Romex.

The problem is that somewhere along the line, two circuits get tied together on the neutral. You are playing elsewhere, and have the breaker/fuse off. It looks good, even with a non-contact tester - no energy. Then you open up the neutral connection, and suddenly, get shocked. Basically, you can get return current from the tied in neutral if a light is on somewhere.

Oh and then there are the neutral ties to ground. Oh sheesh. I encountered that recently too. Basically using the ground wire as a neutral return. I should have taken a picture of this switch box I opened. It was a real sh.. show.

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeWras Ha ha ha! Now I get it! .....

Well, it was pretty lame.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeWras ... But seriously... When approaching a home older than say, 1980, be really careful with electric wiring. One thing I discovered the hard way is the concept of sharing neutrals. This is even more common in conduit systems, but can also happen with Romex. The problem is that somewhere along the line, two circuits get tied together on the neutral. You are playing elsewhere, and have the breaker/fuse off. It looks good, even with a non-contact tester - no energy. Then you open up the neutral connection, and suddenly, get shocked. Basically, you can get return current from the tied in neutral if a light is on somewhere. Oh and then there are the neutral ties to ground. Oh sheesh. I encountered that recently too. Basically using the ground wire as a neutral return. I should have taken a picture of this switch box I opened. It was a real sh.. show.

Nothing wrong with sharing the Neutral between two circuits on different phases. It's done all the time in the Chicago area, and we have very strict electrical codes, conduit everywhere in residential. In fact, it's advantageous - with those two circuits at max current (say 15A), the current in the Neutral cancels out, and has zero current. There can never be more than the max current on the neutral, and usually less (assumes resistive loads, changes a bit with reactive loads). So at max current, instead of 2 neutrals getting heated up a bit with 15A current each, you have zero current and zero heat in the single neutral. It flows directly from one phase to the other.

The issue you describe with having power from the other leg when the leg you are working on is switched off - I had that happen to me, suddenly the lights got super bright in the room, they were picking up current through the other leg, and one leg had more stuff ON than the other, so it got more than 1/2 the 220V combo of both legs.

Now, this won't happen if you simply disconnect the neutral from a device on the OFF leg. But if you BREAK the Neutral (which is easy to do if the device connects to a Neutral that comes in and out of the box and are tied together on a single wire nut), then you can have the situation you describe, current on the ON leg can flow through that disconnected Neutral into the other leg - whoops!

Considering that, it is a bit surprising that it isn't mentioned to turn off both breakers on a neutral. And I'm trying to remember if the correct way to wire a shared Neutral is to have a separate pigtail for the device Neutral, so you can disconnect it w/o breaking the downstream Neutral connection - but I don't think it is done that way?

Oh, Neutral connected to Ground anywhere other than a single connection at the panel is a clear NO-NO!

-ERD50

[Ready-4-ER-at-14]

One the way home from a suburb we started hearing a slight hissing noise. Having little hearing in one ear I can't tell direction of a noise. We were maybe 15 minutes from home and able to get off the express way in just a few more minutes. I was thinking maybe a cooling system leak. No dash lights were on nor was the engine running hot and I didn't see any steam or smell anything.

I had been thinking that because the car had hit a certain mileage maybe time to consider another just before the noise had stated. Surely it could not have read my thoughts! lol It seemed to be a little louder on surface streets but no other symptoms of problems.
Fortunately, we made it home and parked and got out and opened the hood. Strangely could hear nothing unusual or notice anything wrong.

Spouse said, she figured it out. The was a recently new soda bottle with a very small amount of Coke I had in the center cup tray whose cap was not on tight enough.
I still can't understand how it made so much noise for so long without us identifying it.

[JoeWras]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 Now, this won't happen if you simply disconnect the neutral from a device on the OFF leg. But if you BREAK the Neutral (which is easy to do if the device connects to a Neutral that comes in and out of the box and are tied together on a single wire nut), then you can have the situation you describe, current on the ON leg can flow through that disconnected Neutral into the other leg - whoops!

Yes, this is key. If you find yourself unwinding a bundle of neutrals, be careful!

Or just turn off the main disconnect.

[Walt34]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ready-4-ER-at-14 Spouse said, she figured it out. The was a recently new soda bottle with a very small amount of Coke I had in the center cup tray whose cap was not on tight enough. I still can't understand how it made so much noise for so long without us identifying it.

DW likes a brand of premade iced tea that comes in 52 oz. plastic bottles with a screw-on top. Occasionally she'll throw an empty and cold bottle in the trash without screwing the lid on tight and it'll make a similar hissing noise as the bottle (and air inside) warm up.

The first time that happened I spent a good 30 minutes or so poking around under the kitchen sink and dishwasher looking for the water leak.

[6miths]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 You should always flip the breaker on the circuit and test it to avoid shocks. -ERD50

Definitely! Good one.

[John Galt III]

I have a mystery drip under the driver side of the engine in my 2009 Nissan Versa. Can't see any wet spot on the engine or trans, though. I get a nickel sized spot on the driveway overnight. Have put cardboard under it, but then it doesn't drip. Drove over a stick a few months ago that flipped up and got jammed into the suspension near the driver side front wheel, and scraped on the road for a few feet, while turning into my driveway. Had to stop the car, get out, and pry the stick out. Didn't see any damage at the time. Waiting and watching.

[njhowie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Galt III I have a mystery drip under the driver side...

Noticed it just one time? Ignore until it is persistent. If it happens again, dab your fingers in it, feel/smell it to determine what kind of liquid it is. Then can figure where to check next.

It's also possible the liquid was already on the driveway when you parked the car over it.

Stick a few months ago is highly likely not the cause of something happening today.

As for the obvious question...did you have the A/C on before turning the car off?

[Qs Laptop]

I did the annual ritual of tuning up my 20+ year old Lawn Boy 2-cycle self-propelled 21" lawnmower, but this time I did so with the intention of giving it to my youngest son. First off, I got the blade sharpened at local hardware store--$10.00 plus tax. Reinstall the blade on the mower. Now the fun part.

If anybody else does this chore you know how much fun it is. Greasy caked on finely chopped grass clipping in the carburetor and throttle linkage area, filthy air cleaner, tons of dried grass clippings underneath the drive belt housing, etc. Lots of opportunities to get dirty, greasy hands, plus the annual battle to start the thing the first time. It was so bad I had to remove the pull start housing, remove the gas tank, and pull the air cleaner, linkage and carburetor housing.

A lot of brush cleaning and a lot of carb cleaner later I got it all cleaned up and reassembled and throttle cable adjusted when I noticed I had a leftover gasket. Disassemble and reassemble. Grrrr... Check the spark plug and set the gap, it's good. Partially fill the tank with gas and try to start it. Won't start. Won't even pop or sputter. Remove the air cleaner and spritz a small amount of starter fluid in the air cleaner box, pull the starter cord, and V-r-r-o-o-o-m, runs for 10 seconds then dies. OK, I have confirmed I've got spark.

Spritz more starter fluid in air cleaner box, and it starts again. While running and starting to falter I press the primer bulb to give it gas, as if I'm administering CPR. Engine peters out and dies. OK, it's not getting gas. Drain the gas tank of gas. Remove the fuel line to the carburetor (spill the usual required amount of gas on the garage floor) and spray carb cleaner directly into the carburetor bowl via the gas line input port. Reattach gas line. Add gas to tank, spritz starter fluid, pull cord, engine starts.

Start pumping primer bulb, engine stumbles and is going to die so I grab the starter fluid and spritz again, engine picks up again and now starts running on its own--Hallelujah! While it's running I adjust the throttle to high speed and start squirting carb cleaner into the carburetor intake area. With each squirt engine stumbles but keeps running. After several squirts I assume the carb is cleaned out and reduce the throttle a bit and let the engine run. It's fine. Stop engine, reinsert air cleaner. Start the engine again, it easily starts. Test the self-propelled function by mowing a couple of strips across the lawn. Done.

How many of you have been here?

I clean the exterior of the Lawn Boy with soapy water and a cloth and a brush, rinse it off and it actually looks pretty good.

Then I went to mow my lawn with my new battery powered lawnmower. I inserted the battery, closed the safety bail and pushed the start button. Instant on. What a difference!

[Out-to-Lunch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qs Laptop I How many of you have been here?

I definitely have been there! But now I am lazy and just treat myself to a new carb from Amazon for (amazingly) <$20. That is right, I now treat carbs as a maintenance item.

[Qs Laptop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qs Laptop Then I went to mow my lawn with my new battery powered lawnmower. I inserted the battery, closed the safety bail and pushed the start button. Instant on. What a difference!

I wrote a review of my new battery powered lawnmower. Read it here:

https://www.early-retirement.org/for...sp-118035.html

[Qs Laptop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Out-to-Lunch I definitely have been there! But now I am lazy and just treat myself to a new carb from Amazon for (amazingly) <$20. That is right, I now treat carbs as a maintenance item.

That makes a lot of sense, a lot easier than tearing it apart and giving it a thorough bench cleaning.

I suppose you replace it once every 6-7 years? Or how often?

[Out-to-Lunch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qs Laptop That makes a lot of sense, a lot easier than tearing it apart and giving it a thorough bench cleaning. I suppose you replace it once every 6-7 years? Or how often?

Yeah, that sounds about right. Highly variable, of course. I had one mower that I got for free that I did NOTHING to for ~15 years (until I hit a cast-iron pipe with it and ruined it). The replacement mower (bought used) has been through two carbs in 10 years.

I was asked by my sister-in-law to fix her riding mower, after what seemed like a fuel-delivery problem. She is not local, so I just bought a new carb and brought it with me. When I started troubleshooting, I discovered that it was the fuel pump that failed. So I have a shiny new carb waiting for her if she ever needs it!