Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

[NW-Bound]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jazz4cash Will this work? A generic 2 pole rotary switch… Attachment 47171 https://www.ebay.com/itm/38395110349...mis&media=COPY I would use wire nuts. Butt splices can be used but there’s a wide variety and redults can vary.

I did not see in the description in the eBay listing whether the above switch is "On-On" (2 stops), or "On-Off-On" (3 stops).

The OP said the "Functions of original switch were hi, low, off." So, he would want a rotary switch with 3 stop positions, meaning either "Off-On-On", or "On-Off-On".

[NW-Bound]

How about this switch at Home Depot?

The label says "On-Off-On". And it's $4.96.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...122325#overlay

[John Galt III]

OP here. Thanks for the suggestions! I stopped agonizing over my decision, and went down to my local hardware store, and bought a toggle switch, a simple 'off/on' switch, which I think is called an SPST switch. It had just two screw terminals on it, which I like, since it looks easy to just hook the existing wires up to the terminals (cap one wire and hook up the other two). No butt splices or wire nuts needed. Went to insert it into the range hood, and the threaded part of the switch was too big. It was a half inch diameter. I measured the hole in my range hood, and it was 3/8 inch. My new challenge is to find a switch, any switch, that has a 3/8 inch thread diameter. Been looking online, can't find any yet. Seems to very non standard.

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Galt III OP here. Thanks for the suggestions! I stopped agonizing over my decision, and went down to my local hardware store, and bought a toggle switch, a simple 'off/on' switch, which I think is called an SPST switch. It had just two screw terminals on it, which I like, since it looks easy to just hook the existing wires up to the terminals (cap one wire and hook up the other two). No butt splices or wire nuts needed. Went to insert it into the range hood, and the threaded part of the switch was too big. It was a half inch diameter. I measured the hole in my range hood, and it was 3/8 inch. My new challenge is to find a switch, any switch, that has a 3/8 inch thread diameter. Been looking online, can't find any yet. Seems to very non standard.

Get yourself a set of these. Incredibly handy, lots of uses (on sale now for $9):

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...lls-91616.html



-ERD50

[NW-Bound]

I found a 3/8" shank push button switch on eBay. In fact, I saw several offerings from different vendors.

However, the ones I looked at are all 4-position switches. That means, with consecutive button pushes, the sequence is "Off - On 1 - On 2 - On 1+2".

If you use this switch, then the light will go "Off - Low - High - High", or "Off - High - Low - High", depending on how you attach the wires.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16261168875...Bk9SR7rW07DVYg

[John Galt III]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound I found a 3/8" shank push button switch on eBay. In fact, I saw several offerings from different vendors. However, the ones I looked at are all 4-position switches. That means, with consecutive button pushes, the sequence is "Off - On 1 - On 2 - On 1+2". If you use this switch, then the light will go "Off - Low - High - High", or "Off - High - Low - High", depending on how you attach the wires. https://www.ebay.com/itm/16261168875...Bk9SR7rW07DVYg

May I ask what search parameters you used? I used '3/8 inch diameter push button switch' and '3/8 inch switch' and ' .375 inch push button switch' and '3/8 inch toggle switch' none of the results had 3/8 inch in them, lol. May have answered my own question. I added the word 'shank' as you used in your post, and voila, I got lots of useful results. 'Shank' was the needed buzzword.

[NW-Bound]

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Galt III May I ask what search parameters you used? I used '3/8 inch diameter push button switch' and '3/8 inch switch' and ' .375 inch push button switch' and '3/8 inch toggle switch' none of the results had 3/8 inch in them, lol. May have answered my own question. I added the word 'shank' as you used in your post, and voila, I got lots of useful results. 'Shank' was the needed buzzword.

No, I did not include the word "shank".

However I used 3/8", and not spelled out inch.

[freedomatlast]

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Galt III I measured the hole in my range hood, and it was 3/8 inch. My new challenge is to find a switch, any switch, that has a 3/8 inch thread diameter. Been looking online, can't find any yet. Seems to very non standard.

Just drill the hole for the switch out to 1/2" and be done with it already.

Personally, I'd replace the range hood. The old one is looking really rough. New ones are only $100.

[ERD50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by freedomatlast Just drill the hole for the switch out to 1/2" and be done with it already. Personally, I'd replace the range hood. The old one is looking really rough. New ones are only $100.

Home depot has a bunch for < $70. That thing is gnarly looking. I assume it is stained/burnt-in and just won't clean up (or it would be cleaned?). So replace it.

I'm all for repairing versus replacing, but a time comes...

-ERD50

[pb4uski]

Four issues just this summer.

Last summer our 12 year old Kenmore dishwasher, made by Bosch, was working dodgy. It short cycled 1/2 of the time we tried to run it... seemed to run but 5 min later beeped tht it was done but nothing had really happened. This summer it was worse, would atually run 1 or 2 times out of 10. So we had a tech come in. Computer needed to be replaced at estimated cost of $350. Decided to replace. I spend a couple hundred more to get a higher level Boach for about $894 and brought home and installed myself.

About 6 weeks later, the fridge died. Tech came out and it was a affordable part but the labor was the same as replacing the compressor but without the cost of the compressor. Decided to replace the 12 yo fridge... $1,851 delivered, installed and with the old fridge hauled away.

With our annual heater maintenance the plumber recommended that we replace a 12yo pressure tank which the bladder has died so the tank was just filled with water... $438.

Most recently, our 16 yo washing machine was leaking a bit. Tech comes out and the drain pump is leaking but in order to deterime that the drain pump was leaking he had to take the whole thing apart. Luckily, he had a new pump in his truck so was able to install the replacement right there and then. Just wrote a check fo $228 for service call and replacement of pump.

Hopefully we are done for a while.

We rebuilt in 2010-2011 so many things are going on 12 years and we'll have periodic replacement now and then.

[John Galt III]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 Home depot has a bunch for < $70. That thing is gnarly looking. I assume it is stained/burnt-in and just won't clean up (or it would be cleaned?). So replace it. I'm all for repairing versus replacing, but a time comes... -ERD50

Agreed. Gross. Something happened to the paint. Can't clean it without taking the paint off also.

[Qs Laptop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pb4uski Four issues just this summer. Last summer our 12 year old Kenmore dishwasher, made by Bosch, was working dodgy. Decided to replace. About 6 weeks later, the fridge died. Decided to replace the 12 yo fridge... With our annual heater maintenance the plumber recommended that we replace a 12yo pressure tank which the bladder has died so the tank was just filled with water... $438. Most recently, our 16 yo washing machine was leaking a bit. Just wrote a check fo $228 for service call and replacement of pump. Hopefully we are done for a while.

Whew! Yeah, I sure hope you are done for a while.

[John Galt III]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NW-Bound No, I did not include the word "shank". However I used 3/8", and not spelled out inch.

Update: I found a 3/8 inch diameter switch at a hardware store ! Push button, SPST, with only 2 wires. I have it working! Just have to wire nut it securely, and install it. The blue wire was the hot one. I hooked up blue and black to the switch. Light comes on full brightness, which I want. I have the orange wire taped off at the end where I cut it. Thanks for the assistance, everyone.

[DAYDREAMER]

Currently in the process of rebuilding a manual transmission in my old beloved 1996 Dodge ram 2500 cummins truck. I'm reaching the limits of abilities and tools on this project, but over the hump on the rebuild.

On our last trip, the transmission started making noises... NOT GOOD. After taking it apart, the culprit was a thrust bearing that failed. We were lucky to have made it home. Poor truck is really showing its age mechanically, but, its part of the family. As long as i'm able, i'll keep it on the road. Just recently replaced the head gasket on the motor. Maybe this post belongs in the tightwad section. Just cant justify an expensive new truck.

[Sunset]

This repair was one I had done July 2018, so I was faster at figuring out the issue, and fixing it.

This time
The AC wasn't working and the house was hot.
The AC fan was running but not the condenser.

I turned off the thermometer control and the breaker for A/C.

Removed the panel on A/C corner
Shorted out the capacitor tabs with screwdriver.
Unplugged the wires.
Tested the capacitor and it was bad on the herm to Common tab, but good (5UF) on the fan to Common tab. I had expected this as the fan would run.

I ordered a replacement online from Grainger as nobody else has it, and picked it up in 1 hour.
I tested the new one, and it was at the proper readings.
Put it in, turned on the breaker and had cold air

The photo is of the bad one, and notice it didn't show any bulging this time, so just looking wasn't a way to tell.

[JoeWras]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunset I ordered a replacement online from Grainger as nobody else has it, and picked it up in 1 hour. I tested the new one, and it was at the proper readings. Put it in, turned on the breaker and had cold air The photo is of the bad one, and notice it didn't show any bulging this time, so just looking wasn't a way to tell.

There are multitesters that include capacitance, but they are pricey.

There are Youtubes out there showing how to sort-of test these with a traditional multimeter, digital or analog.

These are so cheap it is usually best to get your order in ASAP and replace them without a second thought. You described classic symptoms well that usually indicate it is the cap.

[Philliefan33]

Sometimes “repairs” are simple.

I’m away from home this week, DH is home. About 8:10 last night I get a text from him: “I can’t watch the (Phillies) game on either tv, it says there is no internet connection”. (We stream YTTV so if the internet is down we have no tv)

First I check the Verizon app; it does not indicate an outage for our address. I then called DH to talk him through rebooting the gateway. I tell him “Look for the white box in the study, and unplug it from power for about 30 seconds”. He crawls under his desk and tells me “Oh, it’s not plugged in”

[emoji28]

[Sunset]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeWras There are multitesters that include capacitance, but they are pricey. There are Youtubes out there showing how to sort-of test these with a traditional multimeter, digital or analog. These are so cheap it is usually best to get your order in ASAP and replace them without a second thought. You described classic symptoms well that usually indicate it is the cap.

My multimeter is this one, and it does the capacitor testing, it is now $34 , more expensive than my free HF analog one.

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Multi...71JL6LLL/?th=1

[Car-Guy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAYDREAMER Currently in the process of rebuilding a manual transmission in my old beloved 1996 Dodge ram 2500 cummins truck. I'm reaching the limits of abilities and tools on this project, but over the hump on the rebuild. On our last trip, the transmission started making noises... NOT GOOD. After taking it apart, the culprit was a thrust bearing that failed. We were lucky to have made it home. Poor truck is really showing its age mechanically, but, its part of the family. As long as i'm able, i'll keep it on the road. Just recently replaced the head gasket on the motor. Maybe this post belongs in the tightwad section. Just cant justify an expensive new truck.

No way... There's nothing better than the feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction after rebuilding a motor or transmission. Saving money is just a side benefit.

[MC Rider]

Tried several times to fix the Harbor Fright Portland chainsaw on a pole. The little tubes feeding oil to the chain split and leaked. Also the chain was dull. Worked good until it didn't. Spent too much time with it and gave up. Paid $50 for it maybe 5 years ago. More or less identical thing is now $65, and I bought it.