Car advice? Want combo of good mileage/price/maintenance

aja8888 said:
Remember the 3.5 million engine recall fiasco of Toyota several years ago. Sludged up engines and countless failures. And the bad Honda transmissions where Honda would not recall them and only extended the warranty a few more miles. I could go on and on.

Actually, a periodic timing belt change is a good thing as the mechanic can assess the water pump and camshaft seal area for leaks or pending issues. SIL has a Mercedes and his camshaft chain guides failed last year to the tune of $4000.
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On most cars with chains the water pump is no longer hidden like with belts, at least on my 04 and 10 Toyotas they're not. I will check the Subaru next time I'm under the hood
 
A few years ago , within the last ten Subaru had some engine problems . The problem was they would not own up to it . It caused a stink . Hyundai and Kia had burrs in their engines and came forward . They replaced 40,000 engines . Everyone has problems but some do not own up to it . It seems the Japanese try to ignore all inherit problems.
 
Breedlove said:
A very good friend of ours a mechanic , he believes all cars built today are good . One thing he said was people who own Honda's Toyota's and most Euro. cars take better care of them ( follow the owners manual ) so they have a fondness for them . I believe buy what you are looking for DW wanted the new Ford Eco mini suv , but the Ford dealers just would not deal . She looked at Toyota but it seems to be the same problem. Didn't like the Honda too expensive for what you got . She settled on the Mid level Kia Soul . Actually a really nice car.
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I would say good compared to what? The Chrysler/Dodge/Fiat group has earned a reputation for producing some of the worst cars made today...


BMW and Mercedes do not stand up to time... they are good for a few years but then start having many problems...


Yes, all cars built today on average are better than cars built 10 year ago and much better than 20 years... but there still are big differences between models....
 
Texas Proud said:
I would say good compared to what? The Chrysler/Dodge/Fiat group has earned a reputation for producing some of the worst cars made today...


BMW and Mercedes do not stand up to time... they are good for a few years but then start having many problems...


Yes, all cars built today on average are better than cars built 10 year ago and much better than 20 years... but there still are big differences between models....
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To add to this I have owned 2 chevys a 97 S-10 and an 04 Trailblazer that have been scraped because they rusted out, frame and body. My cars are washed top and bottom on a regular basis. Never again.
 
ExFlyBoy5 said:
That isn't always the case. Some cars require the ECU to integrate with other systems and they have to be programmed by equipment and software that is VERY expensive. It's not always just "plug and play".
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That was my issue. My mechanic told me I would have to take it to the dealer because they are the only ones that can program it to the VIN.
 
Texas Proud said:
BMW and Mercedes do not stand up to time... they are good for a few years but then start having many problems...
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My daily ride is a 1995 BMW that just turned 280,000 miles. It has required some rubber suspension bits over the years, but it doesn't burn oil, shift erratically or leak any fluids. The paint is getting rough but the body and subframes remain sound. That's after a couple decades deep in the Rust Belt.

I trust Euro steel. I do agree that newer bimmers have gotten too complex. I'd still consider an 11-year-old model at this time, but my '95 refuses to die.
 
Mr._Graybeard said:
My daily ride is a 1995 BMW that just turned 280,000 miles. It has required some rubber suspension bits over the years, but it doesn't burn oil, shift erratically or leak any fluids. The paint is getting rough but the body and subframes remain sound. That's after a couple decades deep in the Rust Belt.

I trust Euro steel. I do agree that newer bimmers have gotten too complex. I'd still consider an 11-year-old model at this time, but my '95 refuses to die.
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You can always get lucky on a car...



I had a 95 Chevy Monte Carlo with the 3.4 liter engine... I kept reading how bad these engines were... but I never had a problem with it... I had close to 100K miles but traded it in on the cash for clunkers...


Still, that engine was a bad engine in general...



BTW, when we talk about something bad today, that might mean 10% of the cars, where back in the 70s we were talking maybe 50% to even 90%...



As an example, I can remember reading about a car made in the 70s and it had on average over 150 problems per car... and that was new...
 
Couple more options:

Honda Fit class:
Toyota Yaris, Nissan Sentra, etc etc

Hybrids:
-Chevy Volt
-Prius, Prius C, Prius v (wagon, almost the same size as a mazda5)
-Ford C-max
-Hyundai Elantra/Sonata hybrid
-Ford Fusion Hybrid (get them while they still make cars)


plug-ins (how cold it gets in the winter for batteries with thee heater on? range?):
Prius C, Nissan Leaf, Chevy Spark, etc

cars/wagons:
Kia Soul (the cheapest new-ish used car)
Volkswagen: Jetta, Passat, Golf, Golf Sportwagen/Alltrack (cheap because car sales are down)
Buick
Ford
GM

any mid-size car


CUS/Small SUV:
world is your choosing; everybody has them...
...and they sell the best.


P.S. would the new start-stop feature drive you crazy in DC stop-and-go traffic?
 
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i have a Mazda 6 and I'm very happy with it. It gets fantastic gas mileage, was significantly less than the Honda I was considering, and has had zero maintenance issues in the 3+ years i've had it. All I have done is change the oil. I had a friend who drove one for 300K miles but I'm planning on passing this one to DS in a couple of years..
 
Mr._Graybeard said:
My daily ride is a 1995 BMW that just turned 280,000 miles. It has required some rubber suspension bits over the years, but it doesn't burn oil, shift erratically or leak any fluids. The paint is getting rough but the body and subframes remain sound. That's after a couple decades deep in the Rust Belt.

I trust Euro steel. I do agree that newer bimmers have gotten too complex. I'd still consider an 11-year-old model at this time, but my '95 refuses to die.
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The older BMW's were the ones to have. Good, solid cars and well engineered. Recent BMW's are a lot more complex electrically and even changing the battery requires a trip to the dealer and a heafty charge to program the ECU to the new battery. Think I am BS'ing..read this

BMW battery registering & programming explained - BIMMERtips.com

In the good old days when your BMW battery died one could go to the local auto shop, pick up a new one, replace it at home and get back on the road. Unfortunately, with the late model BMW's battery replacement is not as simple yesteryears. The new batteries need to be replaced by a dealer or qualified Euro specialist with the right tools to either register or program the car to your new battery. Failure to do so can result in overcharging of your new battery or even electrical malfunction.
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pandus13 said:
P.S. would the new start-stop feature drive you crazy in DC stop-and-go traffic?
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I don’t know about the OP, but it would drive me crazy. I was thinking about a Chevy Traverse and the new model has stop start. All models have it and you can’t shut it off. I thought about buying a older car, but then just went ahead and made due with what I have (LBYM).
 
We have Toyota Corolla (10 yo) and a Honda Accord (8 yo). Neither has ever had a repair. Just regular maintenance and new brakes as needed. The Toyota gets the better gas mileage but is a smaller car.
 
I have Civic and has been bullet proof.
 
Five and a half year old 2013 Corolla has needed tires, wiper blades, new brake pads, and finally a battery at around five years. Some issues with wear on the plastic on the door frames, car is kept outside. 43k miles. Mileage is so-so, averages 25-26. Lots of hills here, even going to the grocery store, which is a 400 foot difference in elevation. Small engines do NOT like climbing hills. Reasonably comfortable, mostly manual controls except the touch screen for the radio. Can't see it in bright light. Acceleration is pretty weak. Expensive to buy used around here. Might cost $9-10K, maybe more at the Toyota dealer. I paid $15k at the end of 2012.
 
Mazda 3s are very reliable and a bit more upscale than Civics and Corollas. Also they handle better.
 
We do not even bother going to the domestic (so called) auto dealers. For us it is Toyota, Honda, Mazda, Hyundai/Kia and a look at Lexus and Acura. Though our first go to's are always Toyota and Honda.

It is not only the vehicle for us. We see, and have experienced, large differences in the quality of the service depts between the domestic and foreign dealerships.
 
I have noticed the difference here in Houston with domestic VS the foreign manufacturers. I go onto a Chevrolet lot and they treat me like I am buying something special and you do not negotiate. Ford is similar . I go to Hyundai , Kia they will make a deal no matter what . Toyota and Honda are both easy to deal with but not as easy as the Koreans . I can't understand why I just cannot deal on an American Manufacturer. ...Used to
 
Really, for commuting, a hybrid (gas/electric, not plug-in) will meet the requirement for good gas mileage and reasonable price. Rather than new, look for cars coming off lease, and those for sale by rental car companies. They come with a warranty. I know you are interested in something your husband can maintain, and the internal combustion engine still needs maintainence. Both Ford Toyota have good reputations. Kia/Hyundai have been off-again/on-again with hybrids. That is like Chevrolet some years they manufacture, other years they don't.



Use Cargurus.com for search of cars on local lots (they even provide a look at the maintenance and accident records), google the rental car agencies for sales.
 
***UPDATE TO ORIGINAL POST******

We bought a certified pre-owned 2013 Honda Civic LX with 33,000 miles. It had one previous owner. It was a no-haggle price of $11,900 and out the door price of $13,540. It comes with 7 years of free oil changes, tire rotations, and VA state inspections.

Probably not the deal of the century but it will do the job.
 
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