been there x6
We fly non-stop to Kona to avoid changing planes in Honolulu. Costco is near the Kona airport but is across the main highway. We stay on the 3rd floor for the breeze at the Manago Hotel in Captain Cook when we are on that side of the island. The nearby local grocery store is good. In Hilo, we use Arnott's Lodge but we get the air conditioned bedrooms (with private bath and card key on the bedroom door, shared kitchen) in the house that is across the street from the office. You can walk to a small quiet beach from there. Avoid the upstairs rooms near the office, they are too hot with metal roofs and no ceiling insulation. Arnott offers tours that I recommend on your first visit, then return in your own vehicle to the places that you like. On the north end, we stay at the Kohala Club Hotel, it is east of Hawi in the next town.
On Big Island (BI) almost all of the sandy beaches are on the west side, all of those other beach parks are old lava but some of them have a lava reef that makes lagoons, and some of them are just cliffs with the ocean pounding on it. In Hilo, visit every one of the beach parks on the water. Go early in the a.m. if you are uncomfortable about the locals who drink beer all day at some of them. You have time to visit all of them. Wear light shoes to protect your feet at the lava beach parks.
Rent a car for two weeks then rent a jeep for a week to drive where the car doesn't have enough clearance. At the Green Sand Beach off of South Point road, pay the locals to drive you the two miles to there from near the South Point overlook. The road is numerous rutted tracks, and the lava sticking up out of the sand is sharp. The locals know which track is safer that week. We like the black sand turtle beach named Punaluu, take a tour to Waipio then come back on your own. At Hapuna, go early (limited parking) and drive into the resort from the guarded gate to the public beach that is next to the high rise hotel. It is a great swimming beach and has showers and bathrooms. On the north end, drive to the very end of highway 270 to Pololu and walk the steep muddy trail, it is a miniature Waipio. Also drive to Keokea Park from that road, a tiny scenic beach. Walk through the cemetary near there, to look over the edge into the ocean. West of Hawi, there is a beach at an old pier/dock that has good snorkeling (bright yellow fish), with fewer people than in the Kona and Capt. Cook Monument area. One of the guidebooks has a lot of snorkel info, maybe Big Island Revealed. In Hilo, there is a used book store in the industrial park between the main highway and the airport runways. Other than Costco, grocery shop at KTA stores in Kona, two in Hilo (suburban and downtown), Waimea/Kamuela, and at Sack and Save. The WalMarts only have a few groceries, the Kona one is next to Safeway. We buy the deli foods at those stores. At thrift stores, we get utensils for picnicking at the beaches, then return them on our last day on the island.
Gorgeous Anthurium bouquets were $5 at the Hilo Farmers Market. We carry it with us from motel to motel. Google Anthurium photos.
The lava has not flowed into the ocean for several years. When it does, it is worth the trip to see it. Then come back the next day on your own without the tour guide. Go to the the national park at night to see the glow from the lava lake.
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