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Any Japan Travel Tips?
Old 08-19-2022, 08:03 AM   #1
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Any Japan Travel Tips?

Planning for a month long trip to Japan in April and thought we’d ask for any tips or recommendations. We definitely plan to get the JR Pass and right now, hoping to see some cherry blossoms while we are there and also do part of the Nakasendo trail. We live on the beach in Florida and will be spending 3 months scuba diving and beaches in the Philippines right before Japan, so we probably wouldn’t need to see beaches in Japan. We will stay in Tokyo for a few nights but prefer more nature / local culture and warmer weather so thinking we would head south. Any other recommendations would be great!
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Old 08-19-2022, 11:40 AM   #2
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I'm jealous. We've been wanting to go back to Japan since our last trip in 2019 and a month long+ trip is on the bucket list for when we both retire.

Some initial miscellaneous thoughts:
Google maps navigation works really well to help provide guidance for local and regional transportation. HyperDia is a good JR resource.
If you're going to ride the subway a lot, there's a 24hr/48hr/72hr Tokyo subway pass for tourists. Or you can just get a tourist version of a reloadable Pasmo or Suica IC card that's usable in Tokyo and many other places around Japan which makes it easier to ride buses IMO.
Keep in mind the difference between rail and subway/local transportation and different operators.

Not sure if it's your thing but check out teamLab Planets Tokyo exhibit.
Arashiyam Bamboo Grove on the edge of Kyoto is always popular.
There are a lot of easy regional circuits that allow you to see a lot of Japan beyond the major cities: Kyushu circuit that hits Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Kagoshima, and Beppu; Kansai circuit hitting Nara (see the deer), Mt Koya, etc; Fuji Five Lakes area; Hakone day trip circuit outside of Tokyo; lots of quaint onsen towns like Kinosaki, etc.
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Old 08-19-2022, 02:14 PM   #3
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Kyoto is incredible! I could spend a month there.
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Old 08-19-2022, 02:29 PM   #4
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Only been there once. Tokyo was super. Very nice folks. Language was a bit of a challenge but even I got by. Try the Kobe beef.
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Old 08-19-2022, 02:47 PM   #5
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Do try to get over to Kyoto if you have time - the old temples, nearby Nara, Kiyomizu-dera, Fushimi-Inari, etc. Kamakura is a lovely town a bit south of Tokyo to visit for a day trip.

April will not be warm, but mostly pretty cool. Try to avoid Golden Week at month end/early May, as the whole country will also be on vacation, and the sites will be packed as will the trains.

In Tokyo, the Ueno zoo has Giant Pandas. Akihabara for the gaming culture, and anime and a lot of people watching, particularly on the weekends. Of course the Sky Tower and the Asakusa area. The Tsukiji fish market closed and is now the Toyoso Market, and if it's near as good is worth a morning.

Restaurants that say "English friendly" just means the menus are in western alphabet vs. Kanji. Outside of your hotel it will be hard to find anyone to speak english, even the train signs, so google you way around with maps and plans on times and stuff like that. Everything is super reliable.

We spent a night in Hakone at a traditional Ryokan with hot springs, tatami mats, futons, the works.

Don't be afraid to spend huge amounts on amazing sushi dinners, full service multi course Omakase, or to have cheap fun nights at back alley Izakaya's. The food, my word the food...
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Old 08-19-2022, 03:19 PM   #6
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Surprisingly, many restaurants only take cash. Also English is not spoken much even in the large cities, unlike European cities. We used a translation app and they would often speak into an app (I guess it was an app) and then show us the English translation on their phone.

And Kyoto is great!
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Old 08-19-2022, 03:28 PM   #7
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We were there just before Covid hit. Get a PASMO card for local subway system in Tokyo also get with with being able to use it at vending machines. If no tattoos then go to the odaiba bathhouse. A good way to kill a day relaxing. At shibuya crossing go to Uobei for sushi. You set down and it comes whizzing by you in little trays.

Tokyo and Kyoto are great cities. Plenty to see and do.
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Old 08-19-2022, 03:46 PM   #8
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We went a few years ago for three weeks and went to Hakone, Kyoto, Osaka, (day trips to Himeji and Nara), and Takayama, in addition to Tokyo/Yokohama area, so I think with a month long stay you could really see a lot!

If you have a chance at seeing the cherry blossoms in Kyoto, that would be my recommendation. We were enchanted by that city when the trees were blooming. Or anytime, it’s just a beautiful city. When it’s closer to spring, there are several websites that track the cherry blossom forecast all over Japan to tell when/where the trees will be at peak bloom.

Definitely second the recommendation for the TeamLabs installation while in Tokyo, very memorable. We did walking food tours in both Tokyo and Osaka and they were outstanding, plus then we knew more about what and how to order when we went out on our own. If you love food, visit the downstairs of one of the big department stores to see a food hall like no other (depachika). We visited several and got some great take away lunches for picnics under the cherry trees (hanami).

With your timeframe, you will have a chance to see and do a lot! Have a great trip!
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Old 08-19-2022, 06:09 PM   #9
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Wow! A lot of things to research - thank you! I will probably have follow up questions but this is definitely a lot of great info! Kyoto hasn’t been on our radar so we will definitely look into it now given all the comments!
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Old 08-19-2022, 07:36 PM   #10
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One tip is to carefully consider your packing and luggage. It is not unusual for stairs to be the only option in train stations so you may find yourself lugging your bags up and down stairs.

It is also not uncommon for public restrooms not to have towels to dry your hands. I pack a small microfiber towel in my day knapsack.

I love Japan. It is obviously a very modern country but sometimes you will run into things you would never see here or in Europe. Beer vending machines for example. In some places you may see tradition squat toilets as the only option. Not so much in tourist areas where there will usually also be wester toilets (or only western) but some of the places i went for work which were otherwise modern only had traditional toiilets.

I have been there both as a tourist and for work a few times. For the work trips especially I was sometimes in sketchier areas or out late at night but I never felt unsafe. Closest was probably Shinjuku (bar/red light district) at night but even then it was not too bad.

On the trains, especially in Tokyo they will often make announcements in Japanese then the train with just stop in a station or turn around and go back the other way. You just have to roll with it. I found the trains very easy to use except for these unexpected changes.

Your JR pass will get you in some but not all shinkansens (bullet trains) and you need a reservation. You go into the JR office to get that and they generally speak english. I don't remember if the reservation was free but if not it was just a few dollars. You also need to activate your pass in a JR office before you can use it. If you fly into Narita there is a JR office downstairs where the Narita Express leaves from.

On subways and metro rails always make sure you buy at least the minimum ticket before getting on a train if you can't fgure out the fare. When you try to leave the turnstyle at the end of your trip if you have not paid enough you will be blocked. Off to the side there will be a "fare adjustment" booth with a human. Give them your ticket and they will tell you how much you owe. Most of them do not speak english but they will show you the amount either on a display or by jotting it down on a slip of paper in rare cases.

As others have said, English is not as widely spoken as you might expect. Google translate and Google Lens translate for Kanji are your friends. Learn a few words for things you might order (omizu=water, beeru=beer, wain=wine, etc.) and it will go along way especially on the trains.

Buy an ekibento (station box lunch) to take on the train before a long trip because food options are generally limited. Most larger stations have shops that sell them.

kudasai = please, arigato=thank you, ichi=1, ni=2, san=3, etc.

Some places may require you take off your shoes. Just watch what others are doing.

It is not unusual to see people worshiping in temples. Just be respectful. They are used to the tourists. Watch what the nonworshiping local tourists do. I know this sounds obvious but I was very hesitant at first.

Avoid metro trains at rush hour. The guys with the sticks pushing people into trains are real.

Finally, if you are sick (not just covid) wear a mask. The locals do. It is a sign of respect for others even though it has turned into a political statement here.

The Japanese are very respectful of rules. They do not look kindly on tourists taking liberties. If there is a sign on the grass in kanji but no one else is on the grass, just assume it says "keep off the grass" and stay off. If the sign is in English then it may as well also say "this means you!"
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Old 08-19-2022, 07:51 PM   #11
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Kyoto hasn’t been on our radar so we will definitely look into it now given all the comments!
The shear number of temples and other World Heritage Sites in Kyoto is staggering! At Nijo Castle you can see the very room where the Edo Period started and ended.

Kyoto was a primary target for the first atomic bomb. It was chosen as a target because of its immense cultural significance to the Japanese people so that it would have a deep emotional impact. Fortunately, the US Secretary of War Henry Stimpson had spent his honeymoon there and convinced Truman to remove it from the list both because of its cultural importance and because he knew that it was something the Japanese people could never forgive after the war.
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Old 08-19-2022, 09:07 PM   #12
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Work took me to Tokyo twice and I’d love to go back. One thing I found useful was an app that told me which subways to take to get wherever I was going. When I was there, there were two independent subway systems so you had to be sure your pass did which one, or both. One member of our team bought the wrong one and was blocked at a turnstile transferring from one to the other. Some subway cars were women only, we were told but never encountered. They said if you are male and find yourself in a car full of women glaring at you, change cars!

One thing that was different in Tokyo was that stores and restaurants aren’t just at ground level. There’s usually an elevator but it might be quite small.

Some of the casual restaurants have ticket machines at the entrance. Pick what you want based on the pictures then hand the ticket to the person at the counter. Most every restaurant we went to in the city had picture menus, and often models of the dishes on display.
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Old 08-19-2022, 10:30 PM   #13
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JR Pass: The green (first class) upgrade is definitely worth it.

Food: 1. Eat whatever is touted as "in season." 2. Convenience stores sell great grab and go meals and snacks. 3. I like the restaurant floors at department stores because you can walk around and look at the window displays and decide what appeals to you.

Sites: In addition to places already mentioned, consider the Hiroshima Memorial Park and Museum.
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Old 08-20-2022, 12:05 AM   #14
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consider the Hiroshima Memorial Park and Museum.
I keep trying, but I don't know if I could handle it. I know the history. I don't regret that the US dropped atomic bombs. But that doesn't change the magnitude of death and destruction. Still, it is something I want to do.

It's a little like the Anne Frank house in Amsterdam though clearly on a different scale. I coincidentally visited the Anne Frank House at the same time as a group of British school chidren, teenagers. At the beginning they were typical teenagers, loud and irreverent. By the end, there was silence and not a dry eye among them.

I think I would be a mess visiting the Hiroshima monument. Even now the thought running through my head is what J. Robert Oppenheimer said upon being shown films of the aftermath..."I am become death, destroyer of worlds," a quote from the Bhagavad Gita Hindu holy book.
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Old 08-20-2022, 12:15 AM   #15
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JR Pass: The green (first class) upgrade is definitely worth it.
Can you elaborate on why? We took the standard cars and they were more than adequate. What else do you get on the green cars? Just curious.
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Old 08-20-2022, 12:25 AM   #16
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I'm going to make a specific suggestion for you first night in Tokyo.

You will probably arrive at Narita in the late afternoon. Take the Narita Express to Tokyo Station and stay at the Courtyard Marriott hotel. It is a 5-10 minute walk or you can take a taxi. The hotel is probably 1/2-3/4 mile from where you get off the Narita Express but half of that is within the huge station. It has a great breakfast included, is right next to the Ginza and a nice gourmet grocery store (kind of like a Trader Joes but not exactly.)

I agree with the comment about convenience stores. The big ones are 7-11 and Lawsons. There is a Lawsons about a block from the Courtyard.

I get no kickbacks, just sharing a very convenient option for your arrival.
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Old 08-20-2022, 12:32 AM   #17
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On subways and metro rails always make sure you buy at least the minimum ticket before getting on a train if you can't fgure out the fare. When you try to leave the turnstyle at the end of your trip if you have not paid enough you will be blocked. Off to the side there will be a "fare adjustment" booth with a human. Give them your ticket and they will tell you how much you owe. Most of them do not speak english but they will show you the amount either on a display or by jotting it down on a slip of paper in rare cases.
It appears this may have changed. My last trip was in late 2018 due to Covid. Based on what I saw online tonight they might have a card based system that automatically takes the correct fare. They still are only open to group tours so I doubt you will find many direct reports of experiences. But if true it would be a good thing because the card apparently works in many or most major cities.
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Old 08-20-2022, 01:23 AM   #18
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Some subway cars were women only, we were told but never encountered. They said if you are male and find yourself in a car full of women glaring at you, change cars!
I've accidently boarded a women only car with the missus twice by accident. "Boy, why is this car is so much more empty?" Thankfully no glares but quickly figured it out from the signage on the windows and floor.

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I agree with the comment about convenience stores. The big ones are 7-11 and Lawsons.
I'm addicted to the egg salad sandwiches from the convenient stores. Delish.
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Old 08-20-2022, 01:33 AM   #19
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I've accidently boarded a women only car with the missus twice by accident. "Boy, why is this car is so much more empty?" Thankfully no glares but quickly figured it out from the signage on the windows and floor.


I'm addicted to the egg salad sandwiches from the convenient stores. Delish.
My partner grew up with a Japanese stepfather. She can't pass a Lawsons without buying an onigiri. Even in Honolulu! It was only when we got to Japan the first time I found out she speaks a little Japanese!
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Old 08-20-2022, 06:49 AM   #20
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I lived in Yokohama for a while and spent 30 years back and forth to Japan. It is by far my favorite place.

Second Attempt pretty much covered most of what I'd suggest as well. I'd offer two things which may have changed as I haven't been back in 15 years.

In addition to the Narita Express there is a bus service from Narita. One goes to "TCAT" (Tokyo Civil Air Terminal) and the other to Yokohama (YCAT). Taxis are very expensive from the airport and hard to find in fact. Taxis are plentiful at T/YCAT and reasonable.

On your return, you can go to TCAT/YCAT and check in with you airline, check your bags, go through security and get on the bus. Really easy as there are virtually no lines.

The other thing is, should you unfortunately become seriously ill, I'd suggest getting back to the US rather than deal with Japanese hospitals. Despite all the modernity of Japan, their medical system is pretty medieval. Heard a lot of horror stories from fellow expats...one of my employees was never the same after a back injury.

Again things may have changed in the past 15 years., but somethings to consider and look into.

Ageee 100% on Kyoto....Yokohama has a big expat population and English is a lot more available there as well.
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