Downtown Rome!

Some updates - hopefully this running dialogue will provide helpful to others in the future.

Arrive Tuesday morning - chill for awhile - Borghese small group (Viator/CityWonders) tour at 3 pm. Forcing ourselves to do something!!

Wednesday - walkabout and Colesseum, Palatine small group guided (Viator/Livitaly) tour at 1:15 pm. Rationale - Vatican busier on Wednesdays.

Thursday - early Vatican small group (Walks of Italy) tour at 8 am, open afternoon, evening small group guided food/wine (Food Tours of Rome) tour of Jewish Ghetto area

Friday - Roma to Firenze via train (9:15-10:45), day in Florence, return (7:15-9:00 pm). Using Italo train line due to lower cost. First class with the andata e ritorno (same day out and back) allows time changes (not date changes) if your plans change.

Saturday - recover from Firenze and walkabout with evening food/wine pairings (EatingItaly) at restaurant near Spanish Steps.

Sunday - TBD so far

Monday - depart FCO for Catania.

We've left lots of time for walking about and exploring ... only so much museum time for me. Interestingly, all the major tour lines one reads about (Viator, etc) are redirect companies that farm out the tours to the local companies. Didn't know much other than what I read, so we may have some good/bad stuff to report on.

Always looking for recommendations on specific out of the way restaurants, etc. Breakfast is included at our hotel.
 
Quick question!

We have time during our stay for 2-4 hours on a hop-on-hop-off bus ... is this just one company, or are there several? We were thinking about just riding it around for half day on the second day and getting of when we are close to the Colesseum ...would this work?

I keep seeing different prices for single day version ... am I missing something?
 
Quick question!

We have time during our stay for 2-4 hours on a hop-on-hop-off bus ... is this just one company, or are there several? We were thinking about just riding it around for half day on the second day and getting of when we are close to the Colesseum ...would this work?

I keep seeing different prices for single day version ... am I missing something?


In your 10/13 post you visited the Colosseum, Vatican, Spanish Steps. I remember Rome as very busy, high traffic, a bus is the last thing I'd want to go on. There are archeological digs going on all over Rome. Many tourists can go in them and see incredible findings that occurred well over 2000 years ago buried under the city as it is now. IMHO, I would explore on my own, depending how much time you have and your walking ability. I've been there 4 times as my DSI lives in Italy. IMHO I would get away from the traffic and busy streets.
 
You can use the public bus system but it's hard to figure out because they will list the end points of the route and it's not familiar to most tourists.

There are apps. which will take your current position and then tell you which bus you can take to where you want to go but you need a smart phone with mobile data connection.

Otherwise, you can research bus routes or ask your hotel concierge which buses to take to and from your hotel for a given location.

But you would have to buy tickets before you board the bus. Pretty sure all the tobacco shops (called Tabbacchi )sell tickets as well as some bars.

Another option could be Uber which seems to operate in Rome. But you'd again need a smart phone with mobile data access in Italy.

Or just look at taking taxis. But you can certainly save money taking the bus, though you have to figure out the routes and then buy tickets and then validate on the bus.

I'm not sure about Hop On Hop Off bus just to get from point A to B. Only way to get your money's worth out of it would be to ride it for at least one circuit. In many cities, there are one or two local bus routes which will cover most of the routes covered by HOHO buses for a fraction of the price. But you don't get the recorded commentary.


BTW, if you're doing a guided tour in places like the Colisseum, I'd look to see if they have hotel pickup and drop-off, so you don't have to worry about transportation to these attractions.
 
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OK - agree re skipping the HOHO! Thanks - good points.

How about a Firenze question or two ? :)

We arrive at 1045 via train ... what time should we try and get tickets for Galleria dell'Accademia? Would we be able to make 1300 or so? Is that a good time or is it better to wait way later? I was also considering another guided tour, but don't know if it makes as much sense in Firenze ...
 
Might be a good distance from the train station, maybe 1-2 km.

But if you grab a quick lunch, you might make it up there.

Lot of restaurants may stop serving lunch by 2:30 or 3 PM but it really shouldn't take that long if you're just going there to look at David.
 
OK - we're gonna pig out at the hotel, skip lunch and hit Galleria dell'Accademia at 1230!

Still trying to figure out what else to do - wife says will climb the "other dome." :)

Restaurant recommendations? Other thoughts?
 
Great - thanks - have written it down one the "checklist."
 
FWIW, when we visited Rome we had an outstanding experience staying in an apartment for a week. We were probably only 2 or 3 blocks from Campo de Fiori...a great location from which we were able to walk almost everywhere (granted, we like to walk a lot). The rates were actually very good for a 2 bedroom apartment and we felt like we were really immersed in the city.
 
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FWIW, when we visited Rome we had an outstanding experience staying in an apartment for a week. We were probably on 2 or 3 blocks from Campo del Fiori...a great location from which we were able to walk almost everywhere (granted, we like to walk a lot). The rates were actually very good for a 2 bedroom apartment and we felt like we were really immersed in the city.

Which site did you rent the apt. through, AirBnB?
 
Which site did you rent the apt. through, AirBnB?

We booked directly through the management company that rented the apartment. We found them in some TripAdvisor reviews. I think it was called Purple Home, (it was 5 years ago) but when I look online now it doesn't look like they have the same type of inventory, so maybe not. A general google search of rome apartment rentals (add in neighborhood if desired) should proved pretty good results
 
VERY quick update fro, mid trip ... will provide more comprehensive summary on return.

Rome a great place ... in November-March ...even now has far too many visitors!

Overnight flight OK with United, but only very basic service.

Taxi from FCO to hotel near Villa Borghese easy and 48E.

Marriott Grand Flor Hotel nice, staff nice, but they gave us a very small room - on points, but still irritating ...their excuse was they were full. I’ll be formally complaining on return.

Set up small group tours of Borghese, Colosseum and Palatine and Forum, Vatican, evening walking foodie tour, and wine and food pairing tours ... allowed us to cover a lot of territory.

Taxis easy to find and use ... go to the taxi stand, hailing of street futile. We did get one on street, but he insisted on being off meter, so he dropped us a stand gratis where they all used the meter. Most rides around the usual tourist attractions 7-8 during weekdays, 12 at night late ...start with either 3 or 4.5 or 6.5 depending on when.

Alitalia flight to Catania ok, but the least room of any seating on any airplane I have every seen ... I would not pay more for Alitalia in the future. Take whatever is cheapest since you’re going to be a sardine anyway. And, get a Euro sized roller board ... US sizes do not hack it ... cost 45E because ours were too big and too heavy. They are very serious about collecting money from you at the airports!

Friends picked us up in overpriced rental car and we been at great B and B in Marina di Ragusa for four days ... GREAT place ... square with cafes, bars, etc ... great beach with shops, etc. Bianco e Blu is the B and B. Very reasonable, clean, great breakfast, manager hired local chef for us to have private morning shopping with chef and then engaged in prep and then massive food and wine afternoon.

Leave tomorrow for Taormina.

More later.

Ciao.
 
Forgot .... had completed online app for Global Entry .... grabbed a couple of appointments during our layover in Chicago .... have to leave the departure terminal we were in and go to international terminal to get to the office, but interview was quick and painless.
 
Just finished a fabulous dinner at Nello’s In Marina di Ragusa ...think anchovy potato purée with pork, pistachio and almond stuffed fried calamari!

Astonishing time of year - still warm - right on the sea!
 
Did you visit Ragusa itself?

I didn't visit Marina but have stayed in Ragusa more than once.

Of course there's Noto and Siracusa not too far away.
 
Yes - did walkabouts you in Ragusa Hybla and Modica ... Siracusa today on the way to Taormina.

Marina di Ragusa very fun and relaxing with a square, nearby the actual marina with yachts and boats ... quiet this time of year, but still sufficient number of cafes and restaurants and bars open. Personal taste, but I liked the sea, family area, far more than hanging around more churches.
 
Taormina .... hmmmm .... town is HIGH above the sea. Hotel Villa Schuler is OK, but nothing special. Nice people. German influence with most menus in Italian, English and German. Food in Taormina is kinda the same ...menus look nearly identical. Think big shopping street ...lots of little stores. Hotel 4x $ as Marina di Ragusa.

Took the bus down to Ghiradini/Naxos and walked the shore, with stops for lunch and Aperol spritzers .... then toured an archeological dig with a great museum ... very nice day.

Took another wine and food tour today up a ways toward Etna. GetYourGuide provided a great guide named Alfredo ...touring with history and geography lessons on the way up .... went to Patria winery and spent two and half hours on very good tour, lots of cheese and meats and bread and olive oil and olives and mushrooms ...lots of great wine and a great hostess named Loridonna.

Then some more touring and lunch at what I think was a very authentic restaurant in a small village where we enjoyed pasta with Ragusa, artichoke tarts, fried artichoke, pork aspic, stewed donkey, incredible bread, mozzarella, fresh mushroom salad with pomegranates, chickpeas, and more wine. More touring and history lessons on the way back to Taormina. A bit expensive ... but welcome to Taormina area.

Tomorrow the ancient theater in Taormina and cable car ride to Isola Bella ...
 
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Back home ... last few days a blur as they always are :)

Finished the touring in Taormina with the Greek theater and a bus ride up to CastelMola - the theater is awe inspiring - has been rebuilt a bit to ensure it resembles a theater. CastelMola bus ride was spirited and worth the price of E3 ... incredible how a bus that large can go where it does. Very nice lunch, there.

After breakfast the last day, valet pulled car out from where it was hidden underneath the building, and we headed to Catania to grab the Alitalia flight to Rome.

Stayed overnight at the Hilton at FCO - very, very convenient. Quick walk from the terminal inside a building that popped out in the park entrance drive of the Hilton. Grabbed a cab to the little town of Fiumicino and had another great dinner at a restaurant that was trying VERY hard to be modern ... weird, loud rap music, upscale everything with a huge beef counter :). And, fish, too ... great food, but odd to find this kind of restaurant across the street from where the many, many fishing boats moor.
 
Some lessons learned:
- NEVER EVER, EVER, EVER go to Roma in the summer months. Even at the end of October it was busy. Locals said come in November-March.
- travel light: even I waaaay overpacked. I had converted to travel smith type shirts, and underwear. Four pairs of jeans is two pairs too many. In future will take on black and one blue. Very easy to wash and hang dry the lightweight clothing. Jeans or chinos OK for everywhere.
- roller boards: will get Euro sized roller board for next trip ... Alitalia raped us on two bags that were a tiny bit too large and a bit too heavy. Could not repack into backpacks. Do yourself a favor and simply carry less "stuff."
- credit cards yielded better exchange rates than ATMs: Cambios (exchanges) were probably the worst exchange rate. Tried a couple of banks in Rome to exchange and they were utterly uninterested.
- taxis: taxi stands in Rome are everywhere ... catch a taxi from these and insist on using the meter. We grabbed taxis to make the most of our time ... walking is easy, though. Most taxi drivers were incredibly nice, but got a couple of late night ones that were whacky. Base price on the meter varies by time of day, and weekend, etc. Typically E3 to E6.5 ... compared to Paris, the taxis and drivers were great.
- food: was very good everywhere ... not like Paris or France (just an opinion), but good. Only issue I noted was the consistency - it was too consistent. Too same, especially in Sicily. Frankly, I could not tell much difference between expensive places and less expensive places.
- tours: wow - we enjoyed every one ...and, again, they saved time and were helpful in making sure you couldn't just drudge through :)
- car rental: don't rent in Rome unless you are headed out of town. Getting a car in Catania to tour in and around Marina di Ragusa is great, but if I were going to Taormina I would get the bus from Catania or wherever ... you simply don't need a car there. And, the streets are incredibly tight - whatever you are thinking, subtract a couple of feet in width. Go over your rental with a fine toothed comb ... take photos - lots of photos - move everything that moves - don't forget to examine the wheels (lots of curb rash opportunity). If you allow valet to park your car, take photos before and examine after. Budget Car did a bait and switch on us so we will be writing and complaining a lot - had reserved a small SUV (euro version of the Nissan Rogue), but it wasn't available and only other option for four people and luggage was a very nice Peugeot wagon. Great car and the max size I would recommend. Diesel, easy to drive, fast, etc.
- four lodgings: Marriott Hotel Grand Flora in Rome was OK, but a bit distant from typical attractions - did it on points and the room was pretty tiny (letters to follow), Bianco e Blu B&B in Marina di Ragusa was great, fun and very inexpensive (think $50 or so a night with breakfast included), Hotel Villa Schuler in Taormina was nice but dated - really great people but probably 2X what it should cost even in the off season, Hilton at FCO a bit more American with better amenities but a GREAT location to be early in the morning!
- clothing: frankly, anything goes in Rome. The bit about no shorts, from what we saw, was just nonsense - they know you are tourists, just try and be comfortable. Sicily a bit more subdued in small towns. On the beach, anything you want to wear.
- attractions: Rome - Colosseum, Forum and Palantine - wow. Borghese Gallery - great quiet time with knowledgable tour guide. Vatican - brace yourself ... a sad reminder of the immense damage that can be done by an organization - and, enough baby Jesuses to beg many questions. Pantheon - stupendous. Trevi meh. Spanish Steps meh. Piazza Navona great for food and people watching. Jewish Ghetto - fascincating and a sad reminder, again, of what the christian church did. Trastevere area - great food - incredible! meal at La Tavernaccia. Sicily - Naxos archeological dig - incredible. Agrigento's Valley (ridge) of the Temples amazing (the history is overwhelming). Walking tours of Monica, Ragusa and Isola di Ortigia were all wonderful - even in the light rain. Watch where you can park, though!
- Firenze (Florence): to me this was an over visited tourist location. David in the Galleria dell'Accademia is inspiring, but the rest of the town was simply overrun. We took quick Italo train there from Roma Termini in the morning using a day pass, taxied to the gallery where we had prebought tickets, stared at David for awhile, then grabbed lunch - the worst lunch - this is pretty common, according to the many folks we spoke with there. Likely it is a good overnight location and with time could locate some better restaurants. Did not do the Duomo or tour any more cathedrals. Trained back.
- trains: European trains are such as fine thing! Simply buy ticket on line, arrive at the station 5-10 min early, max. Check out the overhead schedule - make sure you know end destination of your train as it may be marked that way - walk out to the platform, walk on, and present your paper or electronic ticket when asked a few minutes into the ride. 250 km per hour (155 mph) within a few minutes!
- more on clothing: this time of year there is some rain - warmest was about 75F and coolest about 55-60F. We would usually start with short sleeve shirt, then add a thin sweater or shirt, then a waterproof (with hoody) lightweight jacket.
- language: anyone who took Spanish classes in schools should be about to make their way with a few hours of study. I purchased a lightweight great little book called Fast Talk Italian, downloaded the incredibly useful GoogleTranslate app. Italian to me was far easier to pick up than French.
- directions: downloaded the google maps app and already had Waze. Googlemaps offline is helpful, but way better interactively when walking. Waze worked incredibly well for car usage.
- telephone and data: After having read positive things about T Mobile working well in Europe, I terminated my Boom Mobile account a week prior to leaving and tried T Mobile at home, first. Worked as well as Verizon in the US! Had issues on landing with data - T Mobile worked on it for two days before giving up and sending me to Apple. Apple rep immediately knew what the problem was - a leftover profile from Boom Mobile - odd that T Mobile did not. It worked OK from then out, but not as fast as in the US. Wife had set up a one time plan with Verizon prior to leaving - we tried it only on the last day - it worked fine. We will probably shift to T Mobile for the future. Cheaper and works in more countries than Verizon.

OK - about exhausted reliving the experience. Post questions if you have any and I will continue to try and repay all the others that offered me advice!
 
I've spent a night in Rome in the summer months as transit to enter or exit Italy. But yeah, you can go in May and even April, though greater probability of rain then.

And you don't really need to speak Italian -- I've been going to Italy for years and still don't speak the language but know enough words and phrases. You will find enough people speaking English, though if you went to some small town and met people who aren't involved with tourism, the odds are they won't speak it.

For laundry, there are always places where you either leave it with them for 10-20 Euros or you can spend 3-4 hours at a laundromat. It really depends on your touring style whether you need to do laundry. I walk everywhere, so 5, 10, 15 miles a day. When the temperature is over 70 degrees or about 23-24 degrees Celsius, you will likely need to do laundry because it's like working out.

So for a 2 week trip or greater, I always plan to do laundry at least once.

I'm not a foodie but you always eat well in Italy. Some of the most popular places in Rome and Florence are these places which make panini with DOC meat and cheese for like 5 Euros. They don't have much seating so you take on the go.

But I remember one meal in Florence around the train station. I just sat down at this place advertising 9 Euros for dinner for a primo and a secondo, some pasta dish followed by a small filet of beef grilled. Maybe I was too hungry but it was good.

For lodgings, I rarely stay in big international chains. They have bought hotels in Italy but they're not in the best locations, certainly not in the centro storico. The big cities in Italy have good walking tours. That's a good choice if you're able to walk a couple of miles for a couple of hours.

For clothing, yes it doesn't matter what you wear. I've seen people in nice pressed shirt with tie in the subway in Paris when it's sweltering and there's no AC. I guess their jobs or school required it. Some higher end restaurants may require a tie so I won't bother with them. Some churches don't want people wearing tank tops or shorts which are too short. Otherwise, they won't stop you.

Florence, you really have to spend more than a day trip there, especially if you're interested in art or the Renaissance. Even if you're not, Piazza Signoria and climbing the Campanile or the Duomo are great, as is getting right outside the center to look over the Florence skyline.

Then great hill towns all over Tuscany.
 
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