Telly
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2003
- Messages
- 2,395
I agree that power failures are a concern. I have a Honda EU2000 generator, which will run the basics. Theoretically, it could run the house furnace during an extended power outage. The furnace with air handler is on a 15 amp circuit. I'm not suggesting anyone try this, but to do this all one would have to do is turn the furnace circuit breaker off, cut the romex (power cable) to the furnace near the furnace and install a "2 gang" electrical box right where the romex is cut and have both cut ends terminate inside the box, using strain reliefs to secure them. Then you could cut the female end off a heavy duty extension cord and install its end in the electrical box with a strain relief and wire nut the hot, return, and ground wires on the extension cord to the like conductors on the Romex leading to the furnace. Plug extension cord to generator output. After the power outage, simply remove the extension cord and splice/wire nut the two Romex conductors together inside the electrical box and turn on the furnace breaker.
I also have an EU2000 generator. I thought about doing something similar, but wondered if there was a better way, one less thing to do to get it up and running with no power. The solution was a simple at-the-furnace transfer switch. It's made by Reliance, their model TF151W. It comes with a armored cable whip, and all the wire needed to wire it up.
The way I installed it: I installed a 4" box just short of the furnace. I disconnected the Romex from the furnace, and brought it into the new box. The whip with wires from the Transfer Switch also goes to this box. I then added a short run of Romex from the connections in the box to the furnace. Using proper box fittings, of course. Then closed the box with a 4" cover. I used a steel box and cover. It works great, and it gives a pilot lamp that you can see if the generator is running. Which is a help if you can't hear the generator from where you are at the furnace. So to use it, just plug in extension cord, and flip the transfer switch to GEN.
I'm linking a source, but you can find it other places, just search for TF151W. I got it on Amazon cheaper than what's listed in my link. There may be a demand on them now.
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Con...eywords=reliance+tf151w&qid=1605331823&sr=8-1
Something else I did for safety and convenience: I did not like the idea of running a power cord into the house through an open door or window. Where I would be putting the generator outside, and our common wind direction, would probably blow exhaust into the house if I did. So I created a through-the-wall pass-through. An appropriate power inlet box outside, used intermediate rigid conduit fittings to go out the back of that box, through the wall, to an inside 4" box that is mounted like a regular indoor box. And in the indoor box I have 4 receptacles. 2 duplexes would work, but I used a 4-by receptacle block that is used in commercial settings, it accepts both 15 and 20 amp plug configurations, and sticks out some. It lets one know that it is something special, and not just some outlet that is always dead. I made my own heavy-duty exterior power cord, with a plug to fit the generator, the other end to fit the inlet box.
So after placing the generator and starting it to warm up, I plug in the exterior power cable, then on the inside run cords to what I want to power. A big help is to have a low-wattage bulb screwed into a plug-type socket, that can be plugged into the inside receptacle. From outside, I can see the light go on when I plug in the power cord. And on the inside, it gives a fixed light to see to run cords, without having to carry a lantern or flashlight the whole way.
I have many AC parts in my spares inventory, including parts I scavenged from my previous two AC condensers... contactors, a fan motor with blade and cap to go with it, a bunch of wires with 1/4" quick connects for blade connectors, etc. I also have new parts that fit the two condenser units I installed when I changed out both furnaces... start cap, run caps, start relay. The scavenged fan motor with blade and cap and wires prevented us from becoming bacon a few summers ago when the original motor seized on the smaller AC condenser. The capacitor on the original fan motor blew two years before that, new spares stock cap got it up and running again quick.
The only furnace part I have as a spare is a vacuum switch (they list it as a "pressure switch"). It changes state at 3.5" WC (Water Column), so it's a pretty sensitive vacuum switch to sense that the inducer fan is running, and that the flue isn't blocked. It connects via a silicone-rubber hi-temp hose to a port on the inducer output, so it uses the venturi effect of air/flue gas running by the port to create a partial vacuum down to the switch. I have replaced the vac switch in both furnaces before, they got iffy, and would change state usually late at night while the burner was on, which made the burner shut down, then do a purge cycle, and try again. After three successive attempts, it locks out for an hour, then retries. Flipping the power to the furnace off then on again, clears the timer. Having a spare vac switch, I can fix it in 15 minutes. My DW would be capable of replacing the vac switch. She knows what it looks like, where I have the spare parts, what tools to use, how to take both panels off of either furnace to get at it.
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