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Cattusbabe 06-26-2010 09:40 AM

Bathroom remodel
 
Please keep hubby and I in your prayers. The guys are starting on the bathroom remodel today. Total gut down to the studs. Should take about three weeks......I hope. Any "war stories you'd like to share?

REWahoo 06-26-2010 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cattusbabe (Post 951810)
Should take about three weeks......I hope. Any "war stories you'd like to share?

Count on 4 1/2 weeks....

ERD50 06-26-2010 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cattusbabe (Post 951810)
Total gut down to the studs. Should take about three weeks......I hope.


:laugh::laugh::rofl::rofl::rofl::laugh::laugh:;D;D ;D

:flowers:

And if they really get it done in three weeks, or 4 1/2, or even 6 - please, please, please do not tell my wife!

I barely survived two bathroom guttings in this house. Good luck.

Oh, in the end, it all turned out very well. All well that ends well.

-ERD50

Sue J 06-26-2010 10:53 AM

I hope you have another bathroom!

ERD50 06-26-2010 10:57 AM

OK, with that out of the way...

Are you merely replacing what exists with new, or are the changes to the layout? If 'just' replacing, three weeks might happen.

In my case, I was replacing a tub with a different size walk-in shower. Tub tear-out (cast iron is TOUGH and heavy - it did not just break apart like all the info I read - my sledge hammer bounced off it.), tear out the wall, build a new wall about 6" over from the old one, climb into the narrow crevice in the attic to get bracing up there. Tear out all the tile floor (man that 'mud' sticks that stuff down!).

Then I find that the vent stack from below ran through the the curved space from the tub, and the flat shower pan would cut through that space. Had to re-route the stack and the drain in a very, very tight space.

The new shower valve had different spacing for the pipes than the old. I think I counted up 44 solder connections required to get everything together (today, I'd look into PEX and Shark fitting for this, or something).

I'm terrible at drywalling, patching. But after actually being pretty satisfied with the job I did (took me a loooong time though), I went to paint it, and the primer loosened what remained of the flaking paint that I *thought* i had scrapped down well enough.... So, in the process of getting all the loose paint off, it ruined my drywall patching, and that was an almost total do-over.

I think there were about ten things actually worse than described above, but the electro-shock therapy was effective at removing them from my conscious memory. I don't plan on ever doing a bath re-model again, and my wife certainly would not let me consider it.

On a constructive note: For any bath/shower walls, put up roofing paper and cement board - forget any kind of 'drywall', even if they claim it is water resistant. Cement board, cement board, cement board. You want something that will laugh at water. Cement board is the answer.

In case you missed it. Cement board.

Oh, I'm not sure you can buy any other type now, but the replacement shower faucets I bought are the kind that adjust to pressure changes on the hot/cold side. This completely eliminated the surge of hot or cold water I'd get when other people used water int eh house while I was in the shower. This is one of the ten great inventions of the modern world. It's right up there with cement board.

Have fun!

-ERD50

Nords 06-26-2010 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cattusbabe (Post 951810)
Any "war stories you'd like to share?

I like the water-resistant drywall (greenboard) with the red sealant paint.

Might be worth screwing the shower head piping to the stud (or a cripple) to keep the shower head from moving around. Nailed-in spikes or nails around a bracket just don't seem to last. And haven't you mentioned that one of you is rather tall? The plumbers might want to set the shower head at your height, not the "standard" height.

I've never regretted spending extra money on the good caulk.

Consider an Oxygenics shower head. We love ours so much that we've bought them for our tenants, too.

Cover up or plug the drains from the toilet and the tub. I don't want to get into how I learned that. Let's just say that I was showing our kid how to replace a toilet and I thought I'd run down the list of things you don't want to do...

You're taking lots of before & after pictures and posting them here, right?

Brat 06-26-2010 12:01 PM

Like Nord said, toilet and tub drains attract debree and tools, cover/plug them. That process also prevents sewer gasses from wafting through the house.

Do not trust any wallboard as a vapor/moisture barrier. Husband specified some type of rubber type pan for the floor of the shower and then a similar product lapped over the lip of the pan for the walls of our daughter's very expensive home. Then the tile was applied. [He isn't here at the moment else I would ask him the name of the product.] After the tile is installed apply grout sealer. For us: a quality fiberglass shower and tub.

Flooring: tile on greenboard cementboard.

I don't think you can install too large a bathroom fan.

travelover 06-26-2010 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERD50 (Post 951840)
................Cement board, cement board, cement board. You want something that will laugh at water. Cement board is the answer.

In case you missed it. Cement board..................

+1 IMHO greenboard is for optimists

ERD50 06-26-2010 03:08 PM

Before you even think of greenboard - google these terms (john bridge forum is a great resource for tile info):

john bridge forums greenboard

Here's the first hit:

Greenboard Shower info - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Bottom line, do you want to trust all your hard work to something that is water 'resistant', and count on a layer of paint/sealer to protect it, or do you want to use something that is not affected by water whatsoever?

Hoover Dam is made out of cement, not greenboard.

Greenboard on a floor????

I'm pretty sure you meant 1/4" cement backer board:

Tile Floors, Ceramic and Stone Tiles, How-to | Tile Your World

• Cement Backer Boards

Quote:

Cement backer boards, such as Wonder Board, Durock, Hardi-backer, and others are used to “uncouple” a tile installation from the subfloor below. Before they are fastened, CBUs, as they are called, are bedded in thin set mortar, which is the usual adhesive used in setting floor tiles. The panels are then nailed or screwed to the subfloor following manufacturers’ specific directions
FOR FLOORING (not walls):I used cement backer board, set in 'mud' and screwed down, when I did our 3 season room - 13" tiles in an area that will see occasional freezing temperatures. In the bathrooms, I skipped this step. I felt confident as the floor area was small and seemed well supported, the tiles were smaller, and none of the existing (poorly installed, 20 YO) tiles were cracked. So far so good.

Oh, and for shower heads, I installed the ones on a hose with a vertical bar so you can adjust the height to anything you want. Also great for washing misc things in the shower. Love it.

-ERD50

nwsteve 06-26-2010 03:17 PM

If you are using tile in your new bath, look into using Urethane grout. It is a bit pricier but more stable and seems to resist discoloration better. Job is nearly 4 years old and looks same as day installed.
Here is a link with more Urethane Grout
Nwsteve

happy2bretired 06-26-2010 04:18 PM

Not much to offer but when we built our house I asked for an acrylic tub, not fiberglass. I remember reading at the time that they were of better quality and that they were not as cold. I really like my large acrylic soaking tub. It's really a whirlpool tub without the whirlpool stuff (no jets or messy holes to clean).

Cattusbabe 06-26-2010 05:24 PM

Thanks for the responses. This is a circa 1923 Twin with a 1970 bathroom that is being replaced. We have another full bath and two half bath in the house. We are not making any changes to the footprint of the room but are eliminating the tub in favor of an assessable shower. We plan to "age in place" so are using ADA guidelines in the design.

The plan is for greenboard. We are also going to tile the entire room up to the ceiling.

At the end of day one the guys have encountered some less that adequate plumbing (no cut off valves where they should have been) and are having one hell of a time knocking down the existing tile. Very thick mud over lath and plaster and some sort of metal webbing. I'm thinking that the 70's remodel was just an upgrade of fixtures and the tile floor and walls were left in place from an even earlier fix-up. They will be back bright and early Sunday for more fun.

Edited to add: Thanks for the link re the green board. Will switch to cement board for this job.

Ronstar 06-27-2010 05:59 AM

Be careful when removing existing tile. Broken tile edges are very sharp.

ERD50 06-27-2010 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cattusbabe (Post 951937)
... are having one hell of a time knocking down the existing tile. Very thick mud over lath and plaster and some sort of metal webbing.

... Will switch to cement board for this job.

Good! Yes, that metal webbing and thick mud is the old-school way of doing a quality job. As you see, it has held up perfectly for 40 years, and would easily last another 40. The cement board is the more modern approach to that technique - by taping and mudding the joints, and then another layer of mud over it when you tile, you have something of similar quality/durability w/o requiring the same skill, experience and craftsmanship. Good stuff.

Ronstar is right - broken tiles can be razor sharp. I wore canvas palm gloves and safety goggles during most of that work.

-ERD50


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