Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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OMG. That looks like the same piece of crap GM uses in their retractable headlight motors. Dealership wanted around $350 to replace the motor, replace the motor yourself for ~$125 or take the motor apart, replace the plastic gear for ~$4... It's such a common problem there is metal replacement gear for it

4th Generation Headlight Fix

Exactly. I just fixed my pop up headlights in my 1988. Cost me $7.99 per headlight :LOL: for 2 sets of plastic bushings, plus many hours of careful disassembly and reassembly, but I have plenty of time now so that was OK. Dealership wanted some astronomical price to do it. The plastic gears were OK, but the bushings were crumbled up.
 
I also replaced the (plastic) worm drive on one of my Craftsman garage door openers a few years ago. It was much cheaper than having a service person come out and diagnose/do the repair.

Speaking of garage door problems, I also had a problem last year with the sensors on both doors when the weather turned cold. The doors would not go down using the remote. The only way was to hold the switch down in the garage to get them to close. A simple fix for both doors cost me less than $50, total.

Example: 41A5034 Liftmaster Sears Craftsman Sensor Cells Photo Eyes Garage Door Opener | eBay

We've had the hardware installed for over 19 years, so I can't complain on the little problems we have had - other than the lift springs replaced; a job that I would not do myself.

BTW, the one reason that metal on metal parts may not be used is that if you have a failure with the system, the "cheaper part" gets damaged. I would hate to replace the motor if it burned up due to the gear binding for any condition - FWIW...
 
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the 28 year old water heater finally gave out. Can't complain about that. The cost of a new one--$1K. Hope it lasts another 28 years.
 
Here's another DIY that saved me a bunch of money. About 10 years ago my parents gave me a very nice grandfather clock that they no longer wanted. I think the clock is about 40 years old. Since I have owned it the clock has kept very good time and the chimes worked perfectly until a couple of weeks ago. All of a sudden the clock started striking 20-30 times on the hour.

I could have called in a company that cleans and fixes clocks but I am sure that would be at least $200 and likely much more. I figured it was worth a shot to try to fix it myself. I looked over the mechanism and located the parts that control the number of strikes on the hour. It was a simple case disassembling a few pieces and lubricating a pivot point. Now the clock is working perfectly again.

I get a lot of satisfaction when I can fix it myself and save a chunk of change.
 
Water under the house (pier and beam) mostly likely from the heavy rains... now plumbing leak in shower drain. Today's my last day at work, retiring tomorrow... so guess that's par for the course in ER...
 
Water under the house (pier and beam) mostly likely from the heavy rains... now plumbing leak in shower drain. Today's my last day at work, retiring tomorrow... so guess that's par for the course in ER...

Congrats of the freedom!
I find that keeping my home warm (with wood) and repairing/upgrading it keeps me quite busy. I enjoy these tasks for the most part tho :)

My son is home from college so we will be cutting firewood. We had a couple trees and alot of branches come down in the last snow storm. Much easier for me to cut and him stack in the truck...than me doing both!

My latest repair was a broken frozen pipe in the guest house - fortunately on the covered porch behind the washer so only some drywall damage. The floor is spaced redwood.
I used the alligator press on "dohickys" What a great product! All I did was cut below the burst copper cleaned any burrs and pressed on a new connector, no heating and sweating joints :dance:.
 
Toilets started draining very slow after flushing, but a few hours later are working OK. Momentary clog, I assume. A couple of days later, I hear toilets gurgling whenever the laundry washer went into spin cycle. I'm on a 30-year old septic system, so I'm thinking that these could be signs of something not good. Two plumbers, some digging, and a pump truck later, it was determined that the sump pump in the holding tank had stopped working. Replaced sump pump and all is fine. The failed pump was 30 years old, so I can't complain. My neighbor whose house was built at the same time as mine, and who is also on septic, is on his 3rd pump.
After watching the plumber replace the pump, I realized that it is a simple job that I could do myself it happens again. OTOH, there are just some jobs that is is worth paying someone else to do the 'dirty work'. I think this may be one of them. :cool:
 
I applied a "this will hold ya through Christmas" fix to a toilet using a long drywall screw and cable ties. :) Felt good about saving ~$10 in the short run...
Then I got an estimate on a new well pump and water tank (overdue replacement/maintenance). :(
 
Some systems are just tapped into a sump hole cover.........


That's all we have. We asked for it when the house was built in 2000. Builder charged us $300, I think. Our house was the 1st one built in the subdivision and the plumber assumed it was a standard feature of the builder so all our neighbors got the same system at no charge. The idea is to only add a fan only if it's necessary.
 
1st day of retirement was Tuesday... came down with flu... today is Friday, plumber fixed leak yesterday and today came back to replace water heater.... crap!
 
1st day of retirement was Tuesday... came down with flu... today is Friday, plumber fixed leak yesterday and today came back to replace water heater.... crap!

Look on the upside, did not have to ask for a "sick" day off. Get well soon.
 
Crawled under DW's SUV to see if I could locate the source of the leak in her windshield washer reservoir. Found a half-inch long tear in the bottom corner of the tank, probably as a result of the collision she had with a feral hog a few weeks ago.

After removing a couple of underbody panels, scraping a few knuckles reaching into the tiny area to get to the three mounting bolts, I finally got the tank removed. I cut a small piece of plastic from one of the mounting flanges and 'welded' that into the tear using small soldering iron. No more leak.
 
My first plumbing repair using PEX

For months now, the faucet on the basement utility sink has taken some 'ooomph' to turn off w/o a drip. For a longer time, I've been thinking that a single handled faucet, like most kitchens, sure would be easier to get the hot/cold/flow adjusted, and why not get one with a spray attachment?

So I picked up the cheapest one at Home Depot, and started on it a few days ago. Replacing a faucet on a sink with access under and on one side shouldn't be too hard, right? Well, this is plumbing, so...

I turn off the shut off valves, and one is leaking. I go to tighten the nut.... and the nut crumbles (can't they make these out of something that doesn't corrode?). Fortunately, it held together enough to just drip in the off position. So back to HD the next day (New Year's Eve) to buy a new valve.

Well, this is cpvc that I ran between the water heater and this sink, and the valves are a push-on-compression fitting to the cpvc. Long story a bit shorter, between steps I took to get this new valve on, I had other problems and had to jerry-rig it so I could get it closed up so I could turn the main water back on until a more permanent fix could be made. One of the problems was, when I disconnected the faucet hose from the other shut-off, the threaded stem of the valve broke off inside the hose (arghhhh).

Since I had to hack things up further to get it back together so I could turn the water back on, I decided to just completely replace the cpvc and all those joints to get from heater to sink with PEX. So a couple of shark-bite connectors on the copper stubs from the water heater to get the PEX to the sink, and a couple of shut-off valves that push on to PEX, and then connect the hoses to the faucet. The push on connectors and the PEX was really EZ. I must say, even though I know these things are tested, it's just hard to feel confident in a push on connector. There's just nothing solid feeling about it. Oh well, gonna have to trust it.

Even installing the faucet was a struggle. Had to enlarge the holes to make room for the spray hose fitting, and after drilling holes for the mounting studs, I find the holes are right next to webbing in the sink that interferes with the large flange nuts they provide. Ended up filling a flat side on a washer and using a standard hex nut.

But all's well that ends well. It really is nice to use a single handle to get the flow and temperature where I want it, and the sprayer is handy.

Plumbing - arggggghhhhh!

-ERD50
 
After finding that talking on a cell phone while driving is illegal in Illinois, I decided to fire up the hands free sync system in my F150. I used it for a couple of years, but it quit about a year ago and I didn't bother to fix it. Anyway, It's not a big repair (maybe not a repair at all). After consulting the internet, I found that several others have had the same problem and fixed it by resetting the sync system. So I found the fuse box, found the right fuse, pulled it out for a few minutes, and put it back in. It fired up, re-paired the Sync and phone and I have hands free cell phone again.

I swear that the internet has the answers to any repair problem
 
the shower diverter was completely jammed up with mineral deposits...semi-filled a small plastic bag with vinegar and tied it up around the faucet spout making sure the diverter knob and spout were submerged in the vinegar....took about 10 minutes of soaking to get the diverter working again...cost was probably around 25 cents...wonder what a plumber would have charged? :)
 
the shower diverter was completely jammed up with mineral deposits...semi-filled a small plastic bag with vinegar and tied it up around the faucet spout making sure the diverter knob and spout were submerged in the vinegar....took about 10 minutes of soaking to get the diverter working again...cost was probably around 25 cents...wonder what a plumber would have charged? :)

Oh...probably about $150-$200!
 
Between keggs vinegar fix, ERD50's plumbing expedition we have good example why plumbers make a mint. Have not seen first hand war stories of digging through the septic system yet.

A few years ago had some leaking and as result sagging sewer pipe under the house floor. I was not interested in jackhammering up the subfloor to replace the clay piping. Several plunbers insisted that was the only fix at a cost huge mess and equally huge bill.

The low coast solution was to insert an epoxy impregnated sleeve, with a balloon inside it to inflate to pipe dimensions and the pressure raising the sagging pipe to be straight. Then deflate the balloon,retract, and all is well.

A national plumbig outfit from three towns away came in, installed a new cleanout outside the house, installed the pipe liner. All in two days time and at 1/3 the cost of all other proposals. DW was the happiest, no inside mess to clean up, no need for new floor, the price of which would have been in addition to the plumbing job.
 
Plumbing - arggggghhhhh!

-ERD50

This is why I consider having enough money to hire a plumber one of life's great luxuries.

Most repairs around the house I will at least attempt but for me plumbing is simply not worth the BP rise and frustration. I'd rather just write a check.
 
This is why I consider having enough money to hire a plumber one of life's great luxuries.

Most repairs around the house I will at least attempt but for me plumbing is simply not worth the BP rise and frustration. I'd rather just write a check.


My sewage ejector pump just went out. I agree - this may be one of those that I just write the check
 
I started up my old minivan, which has not been driven for a couple of months. I intended to take it out for a drive of perhaps 10 miles to exercise it, but had to return home because the engine ran rough.

Found out that another fuel injector had quit. The first one quit a couple of years ago. I reported about that here. Same quick diagnosis pinpointed the culprit. Same luck that this is another one on the same forward facing 3-cylinder bank of the V6. If it were one hidden behind the intake manifold, I would have to send the car to the junk yard, as it takes too much work for this old car. Darn, it only got 170K miles. :)

A replacement injector for $35 from eBay is on its way. Replacement should not take longer than 1/2 hr, same as last time.
 
I started up my old minivan, which has not been driven for a couple of months. I intended to take it out for a drive of perhaps 10 miles to exercise it, but had to return home because the engine ran rough.

Found out that another fuel injector had quit. The first one quit a couple of years ago. I reported about that here. Same quick diagnosis pinpointed the culprit. Same luck that this is another one on the same forward facing 3-cylinder bank of the V6. If it were one hidden behind the intake manifold, I would have to send the car to the junk yard, as it takes too much work for this old car. Darn, it only got 170K miles. :)

A replacement injector for $35 from eBay is on its way. Replacement should not take longer than 1/2 hr, same as last time.
This is why an old beater car is often realistically worth more to the owner than to anyone else (and, conversely, why I can't buy a "just as good" replacement car for the Blue Book price). These small known idiosyncrasies/problems have already been identified and their fix is often known (or you've figured out a workaround). Buying someone else's beater means you'll have to discover all the landmines yourself.
I've had old cars that would have been nearly impossible to steal, or to operate for more than a couple of hours if you didn't know the tricks.
 
Fixed our fridge that was failing to defrost. Contrary to the recommendations of a few fridge mechanics who have limited time to fault find, the entire evaporator assembly did not need to be changed out at great expense. Instead it was a $15 temperature sensor suffering from water ingress and telling the fridge computer that there was no iceberg :). I had great fun fault taking my time finding it with my trusty multimeter and the service manual (thanks Mr Internet!). I even rigged up a temporary fix of a resistor bank to fool the defrost circuit into working on command while I wait for the part to come in (Samsung fridge parts are hard to source in my area).
 
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... Same luck that this is another one on the same forward facing 3-cylinder bank of the V6. If it were one hidden behind the intake manifold, I would have to send the car to the junk yard, as it takes too much work for this old car. Darn, it only got 170K miles. :)

A replacement injector for $35 from eBay is on its way. Replacement should not take longer than 1/2 hr, same as last time.

Good job. Amazing that injectors are just $35 to an end user. For us DIY types, a 4 cyl engine really makes things easier. I recall looking at our old V6 mini-van - I couldn't follow the spark plug wires on those back 3 cylinders, any repair back there gets beyond what I want to tackle.

But changing plugs on a couple other 4 cyl cars in the family was an easy 10 minute job. Diagnosing things is a (relative) snap when you can get to everything.

-ERD50
 
I started up my old minivan, which has not been driven for a couple of months. I intended to take it out for a drive of perhaps 10 miles to exercise it, but had to return home because the engine ran rough.

Found out that another fuel injector had quit. The first one quit a couple of years ago. I reported about that here. Same quick diagnosis pinpointed the culprit. Same luck that this is another one on the same forward facing 3-cylinder bank of the V6. If it were one hidden behind the intake manifold, I would have to send the car to the junk yard, as it takes too much work for this old car. Darn, it only got 170K miles. :)

A replacement injector for $35 from eBay is on its way. Replacement should not take longer than 1/2 hr, same as last time.

Was this an old mid to late-90's Chrysler 3.0 van? We had one that had ~200K on it and I had to replace several injectors over time. Other than that, and cleaning out the throttle body once or twice, we had the van quite a long time and sold it for $1000.00 in 2007 or thereabouts. What a workhorse.
 
Fixed our fridge that was failing to defrost. Contrary to the recommendations of a few fridge mechanics who have limited time to fault find, the entire evaporator assembly did not need to be changed out at great expense. Instead it was a $15 temperature sensor suffering from water ingress and telling the fridge computer that there was no iceberg :). I had great fun fault taking my time finding it with my trusty multimeter and the service manual (thanks Mr Internet!). I even rigged up a temporary fix of a resistor bank to fool the defrost circuit into working on command while I wait for the part to come in (Samsung fridge parts are hard to source in my area).
Awesome job. Extra points for the temporary fix. And people wonder what we do all day. :LOL:
 
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