Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[NW-Bound]

Sounds interesting, I'll have to look into that. I use the Drill Doctor for sharpening drill bits and it does an excellent job.

Yes, I have thought about getting a Drill Doctor. But with its price at $50, I do not have that many dull drill bits to justify getting it yet. The payoff is not as good as the saw blade sharpener, so I am still holding out.

 

[calmloki]

2008 BMW wagon decided not to have an operable heater fan on any speed. Which means no AC fan either. Some internet hunting revealed that if it wasn't the fuse (too easy) it was most likely either the fan motor or fan speed regulator. Testing the motor meant pulling it, and if I'm tearing a car apart and laying under the dash it is going to get done in one go - no waiting for parts from the warehouse. Ordered both German fan and regulator from a warehouse, got it in two days for about $75 cheaper than Amazon and an unknown $$$ from BMW.

Youtube to the rescue for R&R video (of course our car was a tad different, so watched yet another video to get enough clues to do the job. Probably saved $2-300 on the labor, best of all learned more about how the car goes together.

 

[jazz4cash]

Not a repair. Preventive maintenance. Started up the big 40 year old fridge in the basement, just to move the refrigerant/oil around and do whatever is supposedly good for it. Listened to it whine and chirp for about 5 minutes, which is what it does each time I start it up after it has been sitting unplugged for more than a year. Then the strange noises stopped, replaced by the white noise of the fan and the low hum of the compressor. Ahhhh. Put some ice cube trays in the freezer and they froze. Check. Felt the fins on the bottom and they were warm. Check. Let it run for 12 hours, then took ice cube trays out, said *see you next year* to the big fridge, and unplugged her. (Yes, I do use it once in a while for lagering home brew.)

The 40 year old Amana in our basement runs year round and stays empty mostly. I keep wondering how much $ we are wasting on it but currently it is in emergency mode as the main fridge, a fancy 16 yr old Kenmore is getting repaired. The defrost heater shorted out (2nd time in 18 months).

 

[ERD50]

... it was most likely either the fan motor or fan speed regulator. Testing the motor meant pulling it, and if I'm tearing a car apart and laying under the dash it is going to get done in one go - no waiting for parts from the warehouse. Ordered both ....

That's another advantage of DIY versus someone doing it under time/profit pressure. In this case, it made sense to buy both parts, they might be pretty cheap online, so spend a few extra $ to minimize your effort.

In other cases, the labor is easy, so buy one part at a time, and see how it goes. A pro would not want to deal with a callback.

That was my case with my 2000 Volvo last year. The ODBII error code searching led me to either thermostat or sensor. Both were easy to replace, but the thermostat was available local as cheap(er?) than online, ~ $10 versus $35 for sensor. I got lucky, thermostat fixed it.

The 40 year old Amana in our basement runs year round and stays empty mostly. I keep wondering how much $ we are wasting on it but currently it is in emergency mode as the main fridge, a fancy 16 yr old Kenmore is getting repaired. The defrost heater shorted out (2nd time in 18 months).

I've got a 30+ YO freezer, and a 20+ YO fridge. It's amazing to me that these lower-end units, run a ~ 50% duty cycle for decades with no maintenance (at least not to the running components).

BTW, a fridge/freezer should have some 'stuff' in it - the thermal mass helps to keep it running in the intended zone. An empty one will run a short ON/OFF cycle, which is hard on the unit. You want it to run a while to cool the thermal mass, and then that same thermal mass will keep it cold/OFF for a longer time. Some water jugs in the freezer and fridge will do, as will beer (in the fridge).

-ERD50

 

[jazz4cash]

BTW, a fridge/freezer should have some 'stuff' in it - the thermal mass helps to keep it running in the intended zone. An empty one will run a short ON/OFF cycle, which is hard on the unit. You want it to run a while to cool the thermal mass, and then that same thermal mass will keep it cold/OFF for a longer time. Some water jugs in the freezer and fridge will do, as will beer (in the fridge).

-ERD50

We bought an ancient Kenmore upright freezer from a neighbor that was moving but we could not afford to keep it full. It actually had a vacuum system that activated when the door closed. DW was very skeptical when I explained the thermal mass concept and why I kept it full of bread or jugs of ice (to keep all the cold from falling out whenever the door was opened because cold air is heavier than warm air). It was placed in storage for one year when we moved and it died immediately when we plugged it in which is another reason I keep the spare fridge plugged in.

 

[Sunset]

The 40 year old Amana in our basement runs year round and stays empty mostly. I keep wondering how much $ we are wasting on it but currently it is in emergency mode as the main fridge, a fancy 16 yr old Kenmore is getting repaired. The defrost heater shorted out (2nd time in 18 months).

I had to look it up, its costing you:
A 1986-era 18 c.f. fridge uses 1400 kWh a year, at 11 cents Kw is $154/yr.
Yours is older so its worse: older than 1976 use about 2200 kWh is $242/yr.

 

[Sunset]

We bought an ancient Kenmore upright freezer from a neighbor that was moving but we could not afford to keep it full. It actually had a vacuum system that activated when the door closed. DW was very skeptical when I explained the thermal mass concept and why I kept it full of bread or jugs of ice (to keep all the cold from falling out whenever the door was opened because cold air is heavier than warm air). It was placed in storage for one year when we moved and it died immediately when we plugged it in which is another reason I keep the spare fridge plugged in.

It might have died if you had not moved it, or maybe it was the moving to storage or the un-moving it and not letting it rest for 24hours after moving that caused it to die.

 

[calmloki]

It might have died if you had not moved it, or maybe it was the moving to storage or the un-moving it and not letting it rest for 24hours after moving that caused it to die.

Yup, I'm a big believer in giving a fridge or freezer at least as much upright time before plugging in as it had time on it's side - compressors don't like trying to compress straight slugs of refrigerant oil. I've also seen a number of old frigs that died after being left to sit for extended times like a year - stratification takes place and you get a nice horizontal string of holes in the evaporator coils on the back of the unit - I was told it was acids that are created. That is old freon units.

 

[ERD50]

I had to look it up, its costing you:
A 1986-era 18 c.f. fridge uses 1400 kWh a year, at 11 cents Kw is $154/yr.
Yours is older so its worse: older than 1976 use about 2200 kWh is $242/yr.

I put the Kill-a-Watt meter on mine for a few weeks to get an average. A spare fridge isn't opened so often, and no ice-maker, so I'm getting ~ $120/year @ ~ $0.10 kWh. And ~ $77/year for the even older freezer (no defrost cycle).

A new one might save $40/year, that's a pretty long payback, and I'd rather trust one that has lasted this long over a new one that might have a short life. I plan to keep it until it dies.

-ERD50

 

[steelyman]

Your recent repair?

This is only barely relevant, but since Kill-A-Watt was mentioned: great little devices but I wish I'd bought the model one step up from mine. Mine's a P4400, which doesn't retain its readings when disconnected from power. That can make it awkward to work in tight places. I get creative by using extension cords.

 

[ls99]

For the past few months nothing has broken or needed repair. At least in our household.

 

[REWahoo]

Now you've done it!

 

[travelover]

For the past few months nothing has broken or needed repair. At least in our household.

Obviously not an engineer. That would not even slow us down.

 

[ls99]

I am long past disassembling stuff just to satisfy curiosity. I started with that on my brother's motorcycle when I was six years old. If it was not for my mother fending off the seriously pi$$ed brother, I'd be dead.

I am now in the If it aint broke don't mess with it mode. Luckily past few months that attitude was really not necessary to apply.

Sometimes I even push the envelope, w*rk around the the malfunction until it is good and dead. Then consider, why bother?

 

[travelover]

.........
I am now in the If it ain't broke don't mess with it mode. .........

Interesting concept. I've never considered this approach.

 

[Bamaman]

We just finished putting granite in the kitchen and bathrooms at our lake house.
I decided to add an outside faucet, and I drilled thru 4" of brick and 8" of concrete block with a hammer drill and 1" diamond bit.
My wife couldn't believe I got a plumber out to hook up the outside faucet and put all new under counter faucets to hook up all new sink faucets to.
Then, I got raised panel MDF cabinet doors made for the kitchen cabinets. Unfortunately, they've got to be primed and spray painted with oil base paint--32 panels front and back.
It's ended up being a pretty major job, but the kitchen and bath cabinets will be knocked out.

 

[jazz4cash]

I had to look it up, its costing you:
A 1986-era 18 c.f. fridge uses 1400 kWh a year, at 11 cents Kw is $154/yr.
Yours is older so its worse: older than 1976 use about 2200 kWh is $242/yr.

I bought the unit in '83 and I don't think the usage is that high but even if it was $182/yr (@.13/kwh), I probably would not give it up even for $50 reward my utility pays. I wish I had asked Santa for a Kill-a-Watt.


Edit:
I looked my unit up on this database
http://www.homeenergy.org/show/article/nav/refrigerators/id/1706


What I found was interesting in that this model was rated at 962kwh annual usage when new but the energy formula adjustment for aging increases it to 1250 kwh annual usage.

 

[grasshopper]

The 40 year old Amana in our basement runs year round and stays empty mostly. I keep wondering how much $ we are wasting on it but currently it is in emergency mode as the main fridge, a fancy 16 yr old Kenmore is getting repaired. The defrost heater shorted out (2nd time in 18 months).

In my 18 YO GE defrost heaters crap out every 24 months, last time I bent the shield to try to keep the drips off the glass, seems to work better.

 

[Ian S]

Replaced a 16 yo Kenmore water softener this week. Considered going with a more expensive unit but with my limited space I like the compact size. Got a great deal at Lowe's on a Whirlpool unit that uses the same valving as the Kenmore so maintenance and repair is something I'm familiar with. Easy hookup although the Whirlpool is several inches shorter than the unit replaced.

 

[jazz4cash]

In my 18 YO GE defrost heaters crap out every 24 months, last time I bent the shield to try to keep the drips off the glass, seems to work better.

I am pretty sure this Kenmore is made by GE.

 

[ERD50]

Replaced a 16 yo Kenmore water softener this week. Considered going with a more expensive unit but with my limited space I like the compact size. Got a great deal at Lowe's on a Whirlpool unit that uses the same valving as the Kenmore so maintenance and repair is something I'm familiar with. Easy hookup although the Whirlpool is several inches shorter than the unit replaced.

For us DIY types, that is a factor - "the devil you know". My Water Softener is ~ 20 YO, still working fine, and I've made a few minor repairs. And I know exactly how that thing works. So I might look for one with the same valve system , though I like the idea of the new controllers that monitor water usage and recycle based on usage rather than X days. But I think those might still use the old, tried/true valves?

-ERD50

 

[ERD50]

Originally Posted by ls99 View Post
.........
I am now in the If it ain't broke don't mess with it mode. .........

Interesting concept. I've never considered this approach.

If it ain't broke, it needs to be taken apart to understand what makes it so reliable. These things are just asking to be taken apart!

I'll often take something apart before I recycle it. One reason, curiosity, to see how it was constructed, secondarily to strip it for any useful parts.

-ERD50

 

[Texas Proud]

I am long past disassembling stuff just to satisfy curiosity. I started with that on my brother's motorcycle when I was six years old. If it was not for my mother fending off the seriously pi$$ed brother, I'd be dead.

I am now in the If it aint broke don't mess with it mode. Luckily past few months that attitude was really not necessary to apply.

Sometimes I even push the envelope, w*rk around the the malfunction until it is good and dead. Then consider, why bother?

According to DW, I am in the 'if it is broke don't fix it' category....


I just say I will get around to it.... eventually.... she is just wound too tight at times...

 

[Sunset]

Yup, I'm a big believer in giving a fridge or freezer at least as much upright time before plugging in as it had time on it's side - compressors don't like trying to compress straight slugs of refrigerant oil. I've also seen a number of old frigs that died after being left to sit for extended times like a year - stratification takes place and you get a nice horizontal string of holes in the evaporator coils on the back of the unit - I was told it was acids that are created. That is old freon units.

Interesting to know as I've never heard of that.
If a person has a second fridge in the basement and doesn't want to run it empty all year for those few times when its needed like for parties/celebrations.

Would it be good to plug it in for 3 days every month, just to mix up the freon ?

 

[Ian S]

For us DIY types, that is a factor - "the devil you know". My Water Softener is ~ 20 YO, still working fine, and I've made a few minor repairs. And I know exactly how that thing works. So I might look for one with the same valve system , though I like the idea of the new controllers that monitor water usage and recycle based on usage rather than X days. But I think those might still use the old, tried/true valves?

-ERD50

Both new and old units had the demand type of controller which definitely saves on salt for the times you are not around. However, in the 16 year life of the old unit, I once had to replace the little turbine wheel that rotates in the water flow stream. It was an easy job but still a nuisance. At least one of the Fleck valve based systems I looked at had a display function that would show how long until regeneration which could be handy on occasion.