How To Find a Quality Collision Repair Shop?

[Midpack]

After 67 years accident free, I had my first on Friday, a four car pileup on the interstate - a car came to a full stop over a hill, after a bridge... No one was hurt thank goodness, but the damage to my car is serious - undoubtedly in the 10's of thousands $. Since I am new to the area, I really don't have access to a lot of personal recommendations. Any guidance on how to select a collision repair shop would be most appreciated. I know to look for a shop that's been in business for quite a while, with I-CAR and ASE certs. Online reviews are hard to judge these days, but I will look at them. TIA

 

[braumeister]

Your insurance company may be a good source of recommendations.

 

[Another Reader]

My State Farm agent had a list. Any chance the insurance company will total the car?

 

[euro]

My State Farm agent had a list. Any chance the insurance company will total the car?

My thought too - if it is really 10s of thousands in repair, they'll total it - unless we are talking quarter million Lambo....

 

[Aerides]

Yeah before you go any further, start the claim, your insurance might have a list, or want to inspect/assess before anything else happens.

 

[Jerry1]

This is one of the times I would consider the dealer. More likely to use quality parts and have people working there that know what they’re doing. You’re going to have to pay the deductible so cost isn’t really an issue to you.

Though, I think you’re likely looking at a total. Unfortunately, that means trying to find a new/used car in the crazy environment. Good luck. Glad no one was hurt.

 

[jazz4cash]

Agree with suggestion to get a list of preferred shops from your insurance company. Also ask about reimbursement for lost value. With services like Carfax, even a perfect collision repair will show up as a blemish.

 

[CardsFan]

One more vote for getting a list of preferred shops from your insurance company. From my experience, the additional benefit of using a preferred shop is no hassle for you. The insurance company will accept their quote, and if something more pops up as they get into it, the shop will work directly with the insurance company to get it added. The insurance is paid directly to the shop. You just pay your deductible.

 

[Midpack]

I will definitely consult my insurance company, but I was wondering if their goal would favor cheap over quality work. If it is repaired, I want it done right. I filed the claim within hours of the accident and the automated form said ‘your car is a total loss’ but it also scheduled having the car moved to another location for the Geico agent to inspect, so the jury is still out. I haven’t talked to a live human yet, I assume I will before all is said and done.

It’s a 2018 Outback Touring so it’s still worth almost $30K retail at least in this nutso car market. I don’t have a preference whether they repair or total, but I wanted to buy a Tesla Model Y next - that would be impossible with the waiting list out to April. I could buy a used car in the interim but they’re all at top dollar too. Bad time to buy a car as others have noted…

 

[braumeister]

I will definitely consult my insurance company, but I was wondering if their goal would favor cheap over quality work. If it is repaired, I want it done right.

I think the companies vary widely on that aspect. Sounds like you have a total so not really an issue, but when I had a serious accident (long ago) the agent told me "Just go get three estimates and we'll pay for the middle one." So that was kind of an odd approach in my mind, but it was fine.

 

[schenbew]

My daughter had a minor accident in one of our cars a couple of years ago here in the Triangle area.

Relatively new to the area then, we asked our USAA adjuster what repair shops they had good results from, i.e., used reputable/OEM parts and did good work.



He recommended (couldn't direct us to use...) Caliber Collision. We had good results with them and would recommend them to others.

 

[Bamaman]

Doing business with a body shop that has a good working relationship with insurance companies is most important. Body shops are not all created equal. Small insurance claims today are most often handled by correspondence (and pictures) where only the big losses are assigned to their adjusters. Sounds as if you'll have an adjuster.

If your car is a total loss, you should let the insurance company's "loss department" offer a price and see if it's fair--as a start. Splitting the NADA Retail and NADA Trade In is generally a fair price--adding and subtracting for options and/or high/low mileage. Then hit'em up for sales taxes on the replacement too. Your 2018 Subaru is probably worth between $26K and $30K approximately.

Note: I was in the automobile business 24 years, and had to get into the middle of hundreds of total losses--making sure my customers were getting fair values for their wrecked cars. I also have a kamakazee daughter that's totaled out more than her fair share of vehicles too.

The automobile world is in turmoil right now with electric vehicles going to be a bigger part of our lives. We're seeing Ford investing $15 billion to build a West Tennessee truck factory and battery factory. GM is building a $2 billion battery factory in Spring Hill. The list goes on and on. But someone's going to have to pay for those factories--long before the cars are put on the road.

I see YouTubes all the time documenting the difficulties in keeping Tesla EV's up and going, and mechanical repairs are simply out of sight. A replacement battery pack, for example, is $21,000. I also see wrecked Teslas requiring months and months to get repaired--and customers' rental car insurance don't cover 6 months of a rental. Customers are complaining that their physical damage insurance is twice the normal premiums--out of sight. And it's just too easy to take a $39K Tesla and getting a delivered price of $60K.

Times may change, but we take too many long road trips and I don't care to plan out my routes according to Supercharger locations. I have 500+ mile range out of my Toyota Venza Hybrid (42.5mpg) vs. a Tesla's 200 mile range. I'm not ready to jump into EV's--given our lifestyle. Good luck to you on your negotiations.

 

[RunningBum]

I don't think an insurance company wants to deal with a company that does shoddy work that has to be redone, or one that takes forever to get the job done which keeps you in a rental car.

 

[Another Reader]

Doing business with a body shop that has a good working relationship with insurance companies is most important. Body shops are not all created equal. Small insurance claims today are most often handled by correspondence (and pictures) where only the big losses are assigned to their adjusters. Sounds as if you'll have an adjuster.

If your car is a total loss, you should let the insurance company's "loss department" offer a price and see if it's fair--as a start. Splitting the NADA Retail and NADA Trade In is generally a fair price--adding and subtracting for options and/or high/low mileage. Then hit'em up for sales taxes on the replacement too. Your 2018 Subaru is probably worth between $26K and $30K approximately.

Note: I was in the automobile business 24 years, and had to get into the middle of hundreds of total losses--making sure my customers were getting fair values for their wrecked cars. I also have a kamakazee daughter that's totaled out more than her fair share of vehicles too.

The automobile world is in turmoil right now with electric vehicles going to be a bigger part of our lives. We're seeing Ford investing $15 billion to build a West Tennessee truck factory and battery factory. GM is building a $2 billion battery factory in Spring Hill. The list goes on and on. But someone's going to have to pay for those factories--long before the cars are put on the road.

I see YouTubes all the time documenting the difficulties in keeping Tesla EV's up and going, and mechanical repairs are simply out of sight. A replacement battery pack, for example, is $21,000. I also see wrecked Teslas requiring months and months to get repaired--and customers' rental car insurance don't cover 6 months of a rental. Customers are complaining that their physical damage insurance is twice the normal premiums--out of sight. And it's just too easy to take a $39K Tesla and getting a delivered price of $60K.

Times may change, but we take too many long road trips and I don't care to plan out my routes according to Supercharger locations. I have 500+ mile range out of my Toyota Venza Hybrid (42.5mpg) vs. a Tesla's 200 mile range. I'm not ready to jump into EV's--given our lifestyle. Good luck to you on your negotiations.

That used to be true. OP, put the "before" condition of the car into the Carvana and Carmax offer sites and send those bids to your insurance company. You could get above so-called blue book in this market and they should acknowledge that.

 

[mystang52]

Your auto policy will specify, but typically a loss is deemed to be total loss when the damages are a certain percentage (70?) of the car's value. So you may have no choice as your insurer just might total it. You can also try negotiating with the insurer for what that total value is. Find equivalent models, comparably equipped, and what their advertised prices are.
Keep in mind, as well, if the damage is close to a total you may want the insurer to pay you. A significantly damaged/repaired car will have a reduced value in resale.

 

[MC Rider]

If you all walked away mostly unharmed, it's not so bad.
Expensive, well yes.


If it is over $10k to repair I'd prefer it be totaled. Break it up for parts.

It will not likely ever be the same again.

 

[Telly]

I will definitely consult my insurance company, but I was wondering if their goal would favor cheap over quality work. If it is repaired, I want it done right. I filed the claim within hours of the accident and the automated form said ‘your car is a total loss’ but it also scheduled having the car moved to another location for the Geico agent to inspect, so the jury is still out. I haven’t talked to a live human yet, I assume I will before all is said and done.

Going with a "preferred" body shop will mean the communication between the body shop and adjuster will probably be pretty smooth if the body shop finds additional damage, which is quite common once they start pulling parts off. As to a guaranty of "quality work" because a person went with a "preferred" body shop, I don't put much stock in that. Cost does matter, insurance companies are looking for low cost. And low cost usually means go-go-go-go on repairs. In just about all things, I prefer that sufficient time is taken to do a good job, if it takes longer, then it takes longer. A lot of our world seems to disagree with me...

A story - one of our DIL's was driving a DS' car on a rainy night, almost missed an expressway exit. She should have gone on by and done a loop around at the next exit. Did not. Tested Newton's Laws, the car lost. Towed to a place DS had work done before of a much more minor nature. They said it would be totaled. Adjuster did not agree. DS (and me) hoped it would be totaled. So bodyshop went ahead, started disassembly, found more damage as they expected to. Insurance company notified, they had it towed to another location, where the adjuster finally agreed it was a lost cause, and totaled it.

As a long-time DIY guy including automotive, I think totaling is often the best recourse for the owner. The complexity of today's vehicles, along with all the thin but high-strength steels, the purposeful bend or break design of vehicles to meet impact absorbancy, on and on, versus the bodyshop trying to turn a profit while insurance companies want to shell out as little as possible, does not bode well for vehicle with significant damage. And I didn't even mention all of the electrical/electronics/air bags embedded all over. So, as long-winded as I am, I strongly agree with MC Rider in post #16 above on this one. Glad you were OK!

 

[VanWinkle]

This is one of the times I would consider the dealer. More likely to use quality parts and have people working there that know what they’re doing. You’re going to have to pay the deductible so cost isn’t really an issue to you.

Though, I think you’re likely looking at a total. Unfortunately, that means trying to find a new/used car in the crazy environment. Good luck. Glad no one was hurt.

Sorry Jerry1 but the training in dealer body shops is sorely lacking, unlike the mechanical repair side of the dealership. Many body shops do sublet work for the dealers as the dealer does not directly repair the vehicle. There are several large collision repair groups that are country wide with lifetime warranties. Gerber collision, Carstar Collision, and Caliber Collision are three such companies. I offer this from 20 years in the collision business and 23 years
in the Insurance auto claims business.

 

[Aerides]

As a long-time DIY guy including automotive, I think totaling is often the best recourse for the owner.

Totally (hah) agree with this, and I could be wrong, but in some states isn't it required that you can't repair once declared totaled? As in not safe? Or used to be...dunno.

But I also see this is the worst possible time to be having to go car shopping. New car availability is the pits, waiting lists, and if you're picky, getting your exact choices is going to be a non-starter. Used car prices are thru the roof because of the limits on new cars. And it won't be better in a few months.

Midpack, assuming the total is for sure, I'd look at the best 2-3 year lease I could find in something I didn't hate, to tide over until the car situation settles. Or assess, if you are a two car home now, do you really need them both, and Uber/Rent to fill in the gaps for the next year? That's what we'd be doing if it was DH's car.

 

[Midpack]

Just told by Geico “Unfortunately, with the airbags deployed there is no doubt it will be a total loss.” I was not expecting that. So now I get to buy another car in a sellers market - drat.

 

[38Chevy454]

Just told by Geico “Unfortunately, with the airbags deployed there is no doubt it will be a total loss.” I was not expecting that. So now I get to buy another car in a sellers market - drat.

Airbag replacement gets very expensive. Now add in the parts and labor to repair the body/suspension damage and it is quite understandable that your car is a total.
If you really want to order a Tesla, just get a short term older used car (beater??) to bridge the time until new Tesla arrives. Less out of pocket to buy and you can always sell a lower cost running car easily.

 

[MC Rider]

Remember when cars were made of heavy duty steel and had chromed bumpers?

Yeah, the world I grew up in is gone.

 

[RobbieB]

Yeah, they all rusted out in 7 years, stunk like skunks from unburned hydrocarbons, got 12 miles to the gallon and didn't handle worth crap.

But they did look cool. Ah, the good (bad) ole days!

 

[Sunset]

Yeah, they all rusted out in 7 years, stunk like skunks from unburned hydrocarbons, got 12 miles to the gallon and didn't handle worth crap.

But they did look cool. Ah, the good (bad) ole days!

And I spent a LOT of time fixing various things that would suddenly stop working.
Got an education in auto's that way. ..

 

[VanWinkle]

Remember when cars were made of heavy duty steel and had chromed bumpers?

Yeah, the world I grew up in is gone.

Unibody design has saved countless lives when compared to the
"good ole days" when the rigid frame would transfer impact to
the occupants and in many cases impale them on the steering wheel
or launch them out of the vehicle through the windshield. I get that
we all drove them and love them, but what we have today is much
safer for us and our children.

VW