The worst that can happen is you earn, 5% for the next three years with that investment.
i guess i shouldnt grumble about my 5.3% GS 2028 that I paid for...
The worst that can happen is you earn, 5% for the next three years with that investment.
^^^^^
I just looked at it and it says you can add non-Fidelity holdings in an Excel format.
Here's their info.
Since the upload is only CUSIPs and quantity it only works with securities that have a CUSIP, so for us it will exclude i-bonds and DWs NFCU Roth CD. It will also exclude our dry powder MMF holdings.Hey that's a great tip....Thanks
I am stuck. It seems to require a valid CUSIP. I have treasuries, credit union CDs and MYGAs that I would like to add. I guess it's no big deal since I have everything on an excel sheet anyway.
How many other financial institutions did this?
freedom .. you stay away from energy companies?
694308KJ5
From 2008 to 2021 I owned bonds from GE, Citigroup, Bank of America, JP Morgan, Capital One Financial, Johnson & Johnson, AMD, Seagate, eBay and many others. I also bought CDs. I also bought investment grade preferred stocks from JP Morgan, Capital One, Bank of America, and others.
I also bought CEFs like PDT, FPF, and FFC in 2013 and later sold out in 2016.
Why don't you go back are review the preferred stock thread dating back over the last 10 years.
In early 2022, I warned investors to get out of their passive bond funds as they were and still are bloated with too much low coupon debt and they would be unable to increase distributions to keep up with rate hikes and they had nowhere to go but down.
Curious to strategy perspective here. I'm assuming there are 2 primary camps that hang out here. Income investors who are running their portfolio to create create a certain amount of income annually and then bucket/predictability folks. I fall in the second camp where I have circled 10 years worth of planned spend to pull from when stocks are not performing. In my case, ensuring this planned spend is is available year after year for up to 10 years (assuming stocks are down for an extended period) is my primary goal followed my some reasonable yield. Hence, how should one define "reasonable yield"? Treasuries only? A Rated Corporates? This is my pickle. When to buy longer term?
Interesting. I COULD sell me stocks today and buy 100% bonds and generate more spend $$ than I need/plan for today, however, I have chosen to "play the game" for legacy/charity reasons. None the less, I want to be a prudent steward of my strategy, yet I find the "game" of choosing bonds challenging... and interesting. I really appreciate the insights of you "bond experts"... on the internet!
I keep seeing folks happy with two or three year call protection on 8-10 year bonds. For me, that's a non-starter. Maybe because I remember the 1970's, but there is still a risk of higher rates and getting stuck with a bond for 10 years at a market price way below par isn't very appealing to me, when the interest rate premium above no call bonds is minimal.
I've been searching for a way to quantitatively evaluate these call protection provisions, rather than just eyeball it and either like it or not like it.
The worst that can happen is you earn, 5% for the next three years with that investment.
So you owned the same low coupon securities purchased by fund managers that you deride. I figured that must be the case.
I have owned these also at certain points in the cycle.
Topic is bonds, not equities.
All bondholders held low coupon debt. That was the market then. The real enemy was duration. And I can say that without deriding anyone. Most bond funds are actively managed. Indexes are passive.
And yes avoiding duration was the right call. Bonds and funds lost massive value proportional to their duration.
I can definitely live with that for this purchase. Presently its 53 bps higher than the 3 year Treasury. Personally I got the Guy Adami view. Fed is in the 7th or 8th inning of rate hikes while the market and economy is only in the 2nd or 3rd inning from the impact of them. Its possible to get higher long end bond yields not from higher yields but from widening credit spreads.
Careful. That report does not include interest from T-bills. I got suckered by that last year and kept wondering why the number seemed so low before I ran the numbers myself. Now I simply keep a tab in my fixed income spreadsheet to give me a more accurate estimate.Schwab has an Investment Income report that shows estimated investment income from your current holdings by month in a bar graph or a table by holding with totals... Income for 2022 or 2023 or next 12 months.
Just found this yesterday. I wish they had a similar table for maturities.
Good to know. Isn't that strange. As it turns out I have mostly brokered CDs and very few Tbills so it would not impact me much.Careful. That report does not include interest from T-bills. I got suckered by that last year and kept wondering why the number seemed so low before I ran the numbers myself. Now I simply keep a tab in my fixed income spreadsheet to give me a more accurate estimate.
Careful. That report does not include interest from T-bills. I got suckered by that last year and kept wondering why the number seemed so low before I ran the numbers myself. Now I simply keep a tab in my fixed income spreadsheet to give me a more accurate estimate.
A perspective on SVB Financial from CNBC and is it a canary in a coal mine?...
The other notable bank in the news was Silvergate. The demise of this bank should not be a shocker as it was operating an exchange for modern day pet rocks. What could go wrong?
The spreads on high grade corporates and treasuries are ridiculous. JP Morgan 1 year notes were yielding less that one year treasuries. We have seen this movie before in early 2018 when corporate notes yielded about the same or less that treasuries and then came a market correction and massive redemption of bond funds that widened the spreads. It's a matter of time before spreads normalize. The heavy lifting of rates are done. The Fed can't keep raising rates like the early 80's with the current level of national debt. The level of national debt will also put a floor on rates. It's highly unlikely that we are moving back to zero rates any time soon. A more plausible scenario is the Fed just pauses like the Bank of Canada is doing and holding rates steady until inflation drops which could hold rates up at these levels though mid 2025.
The 10 and 30 year treasury yields are still too low. The equity markets are still in bubble territory and it seems that may people have forgotten that the dotcom bubble took three years to bottom. Those meme stock traders are sending strong signals to the Fed that the stock market casino is alive and well funded. There is a flight to safety trade that is keeping yields at the long end artificially low. Equity investors would rather earn 5% versus -20%. Many investors are also ditching bond funds that yield next to nothing and are buying individual bonds and treasuries. I would rather keep dry powder in a MM fund than accept these low spreads. When 5 and 7 year treasuries cross 5%, I'll load up. When 5 and 7 year high grade non-callable bonds yield cross 6% I'll also load up.
I have a 65/35 asset allocation. The 65% is still in S&P index funds but unfortunately for me the 35% was all in a bond fund. Subsequently 95% of it has been sold off and now is in a high-yield money market account. I have bought a few tiny broker CDs just to test the water and to practice using schwab. This whole bond market thing is brand new to me and there's a whole lot to learn. However with rates are still going up & the MM paying good I feel I don't have to rush.
Do you see any risk of these high yielding MMs taking a hair cut? They are not FDIC insured, just SIPC insured.
Curious to strategy perspective here. I'm assuming there are 2 primary camps that hang out here. Income investors who are running their portfolio to create create a certain amount of income annually and then bucket/predictability folks. I fall in the second camp where I have circled 10 years worth of planned spend to pull from when stocks are not performing. In my case, ensuring this planned spend is is available year after year for up to 10 years (assuming stocks are down for an extended period) is my primary goal followed my some reasonable yield. Hence, how should one define "reasonable yield"? Treasuries only? A Rated Corporates? This is my pickle. When to buy longer term?
Interesting. I COULD sell me stocks today and buy 100% bonds and generate more spend $$ than I need/plan for today, however, I have chosen to "play the game" for legacy/charity reasons. None the less, I want to be a prudent steward of my strategy, yet I find the "game" of choosing bonds challenging... and interesting. I really appreciate the insights of you "bond experts"... on the internet!
Your broker will send you a 1099-OID (original issue discount). The IRS isn't going to let you ignore itImportant tax question as a follow-on from an earlier tax question about tax on interest in an after-tax/taxable investment account:
1. Zero coupon bonds have imputed interest that you have to pay every year on your taxes, even though you didn't receive the interest yet.
2. It is also my understanding that debt/bonds with coupons below the IRS minimum interest rate also creates an imputed interest tax liability. This minium interest rate is published monthly by the IRS and usually is around treasury rates.
So, if you buy low coupon bonds is the brokerage calculating imputed interest for your 1099-INT every year? Or, do you have to do it manually? Or, are people ignoring this?
I never hear anyone talk about this. Clearly, the IRS isn't going to provide a "free tax lunch" to investors by allowing all of the gains of a bond bought below par to be taxed at capital gains rates just because the coupon rates were low.