Am I too young / Do I have enough?

Another question for doing projections for health care premiums.

Is Medicare likely to be cheaper than what I pay for an ACA plan? If say I figure $500.00 per month for ACA plan is it safe to assume that once I turn 65 I will not pay more than that?
 
I did not read all 9 pages (so far) of this thread, but from what I did read, these are my observations as a relatively newly retired at age 60 guy who retired with about double what the OP has:
1. I don't see how 1.7 or 1.8 million gets you from 52 to end-of-life. That's a really long time horizon.
2. Related to point #1, I believe that you are relying way too heavily on monte carlo simulations specially and on Boldin generally. Do yourself some favor and google search "weaknesses of monte carlo simulations". You, and the forum members, do not have to agree with what you will find, but you are going to be retired for DECADES, so at least bother yourself to take a little time and read about those weaknesses.
3. Related to point #2, I believe that using retirement financial forecasting software such as Boldin is entirely foolish, and while you and the forum members might not agree, do yourself a favor and at least think about this for a moment: Those programs are making very precise calculations sequentially for each successive year based on the results of the previous year. But the inputs in terms of expected inflation, stock returns, bond investment results, taxes, spending needs, etc are ALL GUESSES and beyond the first few years of your planned retirement they are NOT educated guesses, they are wild guesses. You are being given precisely calculated results from imprecise inputs. If someone is 52 and has $750,000, those kind of programs would probably be correct in predicting failure for money lasting through retirement. Likewise, if someone is 52 and has $6,500,000, those programs would probably be correct in predicting success in not outliving money in retirement. But when someone is somewhere between "obviously not enough money" and "obviously plenty of money" it is really hazardous to use those programs to determine that you have enough money. Firecalc, or Fi Calc, or c FIRE sim would be much more useful. And, please do some reading about the weakness of monte carlo sims.
4. I retired in June. In the month leading up to retirement, the roof over part of the house began leaking water into the foyer, destroying the dry wall and ceiling. Multiple roofers who came to give estimates told me that the slate roof over that part of the house was at end of life and the whole roof needs to be replaced. The few who said they would be willing to try fixing the leak without roof replacement insisted that they would give no guarantee because they could not be sure which slate tiles were the culprit and anyway, the roof is in such poor shape that an adjacent area could leak the next day and they have no way to predict or prevent that. Oh, by the way, the "repairs" were going to be $4,500 to $6,500. We opted for replacement with architectural asphalt shingles, for $14,000. I did not even get estimates to fix the walls and the ceiling because we can do that ourselves, I think, but the materials will cost money.
While that was happening, we found that the gutter going across front of a different part of the roof was not draining at all, and water pouring over it like a waterfall and flooding the ground in front of the house. Replacement was $1,000.
At the same time, we found that cracks in the basement CMU wall that had been too thin to care about were widening. The structural engineer that everyone recommended was $900 to tell us that we need to monitor the cracks for anywhere from a few months to a year, and if they are further widening we need a foundation wall repair company (estimates for their work would be anywhere from $15,000 to $65,000).
And, the air handler in the attic has been rusting from condensation, and when it rusts through beyond the small holes in it now, water will accumulate in the overflow pan and trigger the shut off valve necessitating replacement of the air handler or we have to go to the attic 1-2 times everyday to aspirate the water out of the overflow pan. ALL of that was in the month leading up to my retirement with "enough money". I did not know about any of those things being a problem before giving my notice that I would retire, and really, not known before May/June 2025. Who knows what the rest of this year will bring for me in terms of unexpected expenses; and what about next year, and the year after that, etc? Educated guesses and wild guesses when setting up Boldin will not help with that wildly unexpected but distorted cash flow issue. Bottom line, you will need more money than you think you will need.
5. Lastly, in reference to point #1, $1.7 million seems like not enough money to last from age 52 to end-of-life.
Excellent points — I couldn’t have expressed them better. Your emphasis on Monte Carlo simulations is well taken, though one limitation that deserves more emphasis is the difference in horizon risk between age 52 and 65. At 52, the time horizon is substantially longer, which increases exposure to sequence‑of‑returns risk as well as the likelihood of low‑probability, high‑impact events. Traditional Monte Carlo models typically assume distributions that underrepresent fat tails, so they cannot fully capture the effect of unforeseen shocks over extended periods. The key issue is that with a longer horizon, the probability distribution of outcomes not only widens but becomes increasingly dominated by rare but impactful events. In practical terms, this translates into a much narrower margin for error in long‑term planning compared to someone commencing from age 65.
 
Another question for doing projections for health care premiums.

Is Medicare likely to be cheaper than what I pay for an ACA plan? If say I figure $500.00 per month for ACA plan is it safe to assume that once I turn 65 I will not pay more than that?
When deciding between Medicare Advantage and Medigap, it’s important to recognize that you truly get what you pay for. Medicare Advantage plans can offer lower monthly costs, but often come with restrictions like step therapy, narrower provider networks, and prior authorization requirements, all designed to save the insurer money—sometimes at the expense of your treatment options and convenience. By contrast, Medigap may cost significantly more each month, but it minimizes hassles and coverage restrictions: you get broad access to providers nationwide, fewer surprises, and virtually no barriers to the care you need if Medicare covers it. For us, the higher Medigap premium is worth it, as it means we don’t have to worry about jumping through hoops or facing suboptimal benefit paths if our health needs change. In short, we’re willing to pay extra up front for the privilege of certainty, flexibility, and peace of mind.
 
Medicare Part A is no cost. Part B is based on income, but will probably be $185 for you. There is also Part D, which is prescription drug coverage. Part D looks to be $46.50 in 2025. Many will also get a Medigap plan. Medigap Plan G is probably what we will get. Cost will vary, but let's say $125.

So, 185 + 125 + 46 = $356 per month if you go the 3 pieces mentioned above.
Note medicare rates are all per person - so $700+ once both you and your wife are on Medicare.

We are not on Medicare yet, hopefully someone that is can confirm if this is in the ball park.
 
Medicare Part A is no cost. Part B is based on income, but will probably be $185 for you. There is also Part D, which is prescription drug coverage. Part D looks to be $46.50 in 2025. Many will also get a Medigap plan. Medigap Plan G is probably what we will get. Cost will vary, but let's say $125.

So, 185 + 125 + 46 = $356 per month if you go the 3 pieces mentioned above.
Note medicare rates are all per person - so $700+ once both you and your wife are on Medicare.

We are not on Medicare yet, hopefully someone that is can confirm if this is in the ball park.
How much do you budget for out of pocket on top of the premiums?
 
How much do you budget for out of pocket on top of the premiums?
I can try to answer this... assuming you don't end up with drugs that are not covered, Medicare now limits out of pocket costs for drugs to $2K a year. It is a huge improvement over prior years when there was the donut hole etc that coud end up costing you $6K a year for some expensive drugs.
 
I can try to answer this... assuming you don't end up with drugs that are not covered, Medicare now limits out of pocket costs for drugs to $2K a year. It is a huge improvement over prior years when there was the donut hole etc that coud end up costing you $6K a year for some expensive drugs.
I have it in my head that we need $500-$1000/person/mo for Medicare when considering premiums and out of pocket. That may be too much, but that is what I am going with for now.
 
I have it in my head that we need $500-$1000/person/mo for Medicare when considering premiums and out of pocket. That may be too much, but that is what I am going with for now.
I think $500 to $600 per person in premiums is about what it would cost if you are about 75 years old. When you turn 65, it is closer to $350 in premiums, as Medigap (plan G) cost goes up with age. No co-pay except for a couple of hundred dollars in deductible for Plan G. $2K in drugs is per year. I am not of Medicare age yet but my husband is and he has been on it for a dozen years, and he has Plan F.
 
My mother in law pays $32 per month for Medicare Advantage and loves it. Just had a near death experience and paid I think $1,200.00 out of a $330,000.00 hospital stay.
 
My mother in law pays $32 per month for Medicare Advantage and loves it. Just had a near death experience and paid I think $1,200.00 out of a $330,000.00 hospital stay.
My parents have had Medicare Advantage, and they like it. I think it can work well for some, and not so well for others. I think it is also dependent on the area in which one lives.
 
Is FiCalc the same as FireCalc?

Does Guyton Klinger really increase success rate this much? Is the FiCalc using Guyton Klinger taking inflation adjustments per year into account?

I plugged in starting balance of $1,770,000.00 with $106,000.00 per year withdrawals (taking tax into account to get me to $85,000.00 per year after taxes when 24% of my portfolio is Roth).

I also plugged in an additional $20,000.00 per year for 5 years of increased travel along with $50,000.00 one year for a new vehicle and $12,000.00 for new HVAC those are the only two big expenses I can honestly foresee in the near term.

So it's basically telling me there is no failure? What are the chances of needing crazy decreases in spending? Like am I ever going to have to adjust to $20,000.00 per year or something that isn't sustainable?

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Not really a huge fan of the Guyton Klinger module. IMHO, it is on the aggressive side for spending. The concept of spending less as we age is not definitive if one plans for LTC costs in the mix.
As for the VPW module from Bogleheads, it is also on the aggressive side with effectively caveats to lower the spending in the end. So not a huge fan here either, although others love it.
 
My mother in law pays $32 per month for Medicare Advantage and loves it. Just had a near death experience and paid I think $1,200.00 out of a $330,000.00 hospital stay.
My brother pays no premium and the Part B premium is reduced to $10.30 monthly. He has access to all the applicable doctors in the area.
The MA plans really suffer in certain areas, where there is not access to a wide network of doctors. Additionally, there can be issues with how major medical events are handled such as heart issues and cancer.
That said, I did choose Medigap Part G for myself.
 
Okay I haven’t read the entire thread, just the first 150 posts! One thing that makes me feel positive about your plan is that $30,000 of your budget is discretionary. I think back to COVID years. DH and quit traveling and going out to eat. I was surprised at how little we spent. Now I love travel and meeting with friends at restaurants, but you know what we had a good life during the Covid years.
 
Another question for doing projections for health care premiums.

Is Medicare likely to be cheaper than what I pay for an ACA plan? If say I figure $500.00 per month for ACA plan is it safe to assume that once I turn 65 I will not pay more than that?
You're 50 now, so don't assume anything will be cheaper based on current anecdotes here.

And your ACA plan will almost definitely be more than $500 per month in 2026 and beyond. Mine will be, and it's a high deductible plan. They vary by location, but we were paying $450 for a bronze plan in 2019. The enhanced credits expire this year so I'm already deciding to be happy if next year is less than $700 for two ppl. And then of course we pay something for every usage, every visit, every scrip.

If Medicare is in good shape when we get there in 9 years, great, it will be nice if it's less, but I'm not going to remotely count on that.

I'd put in an estimate of no less than $1k per month forever, for planning purposes.
 
You're 50 now, so don't assume anything will be cheaper based on current anecdotes here.

And your ACA plan will almost definitely be more than $500 per month in 2026 and beyond. Mine will be, and it's a high deductible plan. They vary by location, but we were paying $450 for a bronze plan in 2019. The enhanced credits expire this year so I'm already deciding to be happy if next year is less than $700 for two ppl. And then of course we pay something for every usage, every visit, every scrip.

If Medicare is in good shape when we get there in 9 years, great, it will be nice if it's less, but I'm not going to remotely count on that.

I'd put in an estimate of no less than $1k per month forever, for planning purposes.
But I plan to use subsides by limiting MAGI.
 
I think we just don't know how much subsidies you will be getting for next year.
Correct.

Does cost vary by state also?

Right now by plugging into 2025 calculator it says I could get the silver plan for $96 per month. ChatGPT (no idea if accurate) says that is likely to increase to $240 a month next year. That's for $44k MAGI.
 
Correct.

Does cost vary by state also?

Right now by plugging into 2025 calculator it says I could get the silver plan for $96 per month. ChatGPT (no idea if accurate) says that is likely to increase to $240 a month next year. That's for $44k MAGI.
Yes, I know the health insurance costs vary by state and I don't know about the subsidies. I have not gotten subsidies so I don't know. I would assume that the subsidies are the same since they are offered at the federal level.
 
Right, i do too, and I am getting subsidies. And I still gave you those numbers.
But we don't have to guess, we will know by the end of the year what 2026 brings right?

Is it legal to retire and then go back to work for same company? If insurance gets expensive I could always work on a very limited basis just to cover cost of company insurance. That might be a way for me to make everything work.
 
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Does Guyton Klinger really increase success rate this much? Is the FiCalc using Guyton Klinger taking inflation adjustments per year into account?
These articles on Guyton Klinger may be of interest.


 
These articles on Guyton Klinger may be of interest.


Yeah I realized soon after looking into this that you could quickly be forced to withdraw less than you can live on.

The FICalc site does have an option to set a limit on minimum withdrawals. If that is set to the default of $20,000.00 then no matter what I do the success rate is 100%. If I set that to a more realistic $75,000.00 then it shows only 94.6% success rate.

I met with advisor yesterday and his suggestion is GK or other ways of dynamically adjusting withdrawal rates is fine (not going to hurt anything and will likely help) but wants to also setup different accounts in such a way that I have 4 years of safe reserves to avoid sequence of returns risk. He wants to setup something like this -

SEPP IRA - 70 / 30 (around $700,000.00 pulling $44,000.00 per year) so $210,000.00 in bond funds to keep 4 or so years of "safe" money.
Roth IRA Now - 30 / 70 (around $200,000.00 pulling $35,000.00 per year) again same strategy $140,000.00 in bond funds to keep 4 years of "safe" money.

Remainder - 100 / 0 (around $800,000.00 not touching for 7 years). This would be in aggressive investments with 10-12% historical return rates.

All would be monitored by me with advice from him on when to rebalance / adjust along with 1-2 meetings per year to make sure everything is on track. This would not cost me 1% but would cost me something, probably like 0.2% which seems reasonable for someone like me that probably needs some help. He thinks bond funds have not been good over the last 10 years but thinks they are a good idea now but we have to see where things stand at retirement and adjust accordingly. He didn't rule out CD's or other options at some point but does suggest bonds at this point.
 
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