Another repair question (my deck)

should be about $680.
8 boards at $20 each = $160
Screws $20
4 hrs pickup material, remove and replace boards with travel = $400
Disposal $100

And that doesn't count factoring in his tool cost.
 
This is why I do some jobs myself, it's faster than getting the quotes many times.

I'd just order online from HD or Menards the wood and get it delivered (if it can't fit in your vehicle). Order an extra one in case one is really crap.

Then pull up the boards and screw in the new ones, do it one at a time so can stop along the way and continue the next day if tired or need to eat lunch.
 
This is why I do some jobs myself, it's faster than getting the quotes many times.

I'd just order online from HD or Menards the wood and get it delivered (if it can't fit in your vehicle). Order an extra one in case one is really crap.

Then pull up the boards and screw in the new ones, do it one at a time so can stop along the way and continue the next day if tired or need to eat lunch.
and open a beer, crank the reggae. Reggae always makes work easier...everything is gonna be alright....
 
Reggae always makes work easier...everything is gonna be alright....

Reggae is fun.

I smoke 2 joints in the morning, I smoke 2 joints at night. I smoke 2 joints in the afternoon, you know it makes me feel alright. Ain't gonna help get the job done though. :LOL:

If you give the handyman or contractor the chance to just do the small job last minute like when they end up with dead time, that may help.
 
should be about $680.
8 boards at $20 each = $160
Screws $20
4 hrs pickup material, remove and replace boards with travel = $400
Disposal $100

And that doesn't count factoring in his tool cost.
I don't know how some of you come up with these estimates.

It doesn't take 4 hours to buy 5 or 6 boards and screw them down. It doesn't take $20 of screws either, and it's not $100 for disposal.

An actual contractor buys screws in bulk and the amount needed to attach 6 boards will cost $5 or less.

They'll also have a dump bin and will toss the old boards in their truck to be added to the bin at the end of the day. Even if it costs them $500 to empty the bin, 6 boards takes up less than 1% of space.
 
if using pressure treated the cost is 1/3 the cost of cedar. I know cedar is more, but didn’t think it should be that much difference.
At my home depot today, a pressure treated 2x4 is $4. Cedar, same size, starts at $21.
 
RetiredAndLovingIt, I dunno, easiest way to find out is to try it on a few boards (cheap and easy if you have a pry bar to pull the nails and a drill to install the screws). But after 35 years and too little paint you might be wrong about the condition of the wood. If the nails are loose in their holes, water could be going down through the nail holes and rotting the supporting joists, too.
Thanks, I haven't had a chance to go out and check out how many boards/nails are affected yet but I will. I'm in Southern California so rain is not much of an issue for us, everything dries up very quickly here. I assume if that was happening though the nails would show signs of rust at the tips?
Lots of great information in this thread and it seems that this might not be as big a job as I thought it might be and I can either get my son or a local handyman to fix it fairly easily and Home Depot does sell 20' long boards.
I also have another old wooden deck that was around the above ground pool when the kids were little with the same problem in a couple of areas. Pool is long gone but I still like to sit up there and check out the desert wildlife sometimes but maybe I'll try lifting a couple of boards and check out the condition of these joists first, it's a lot closer to the ground than the balcony is.
 
I don't know how some of you come up with these estimates.

It doesn't take 4 hours to buy 5 or 6 boards and screw them down. It doesn't take $20 of screws either, and it's not $100 for disposal.

An actual contractor buys screws in bulk and the amount needed to attach 6 boards will cost $5 or less.

They'll also have a dump bin and will toss the old boards in their truck to be added to the bin at the end of the day. Even if it costs them $500 to empty the bin, 6 boards takes up less than 1% of space.
The primary objective of any business is to make money. Even a handyman has to make a profit. I estimated the cost accordingly.
 
Update.

I decided to do the job myself. It will take a lot longer but I can do it for a lot less - sort of. I calculated the cost of replacing all the boards on the deck, just the decking, not any of the railing or anything else. Just the flat decking. The material cost to do the entire deck is under $400. This week, I got 6 of the longest boards (16ft). They are laid diagonally so those 6 boards are the middle boards. As I move out from the center, they will get shorter. I got the 6 boards down, which were the worst of the rotten boards, thinking I'd just replace a few more that are pretty bad. Unfortunately, that's when my OCD kicked in. I just couldn't see those nice new boards mice in with the older boards, even if they weren't rotted they still look pretty rough. So, in for a penny, in for a pound.

It will probably take me a few weeks to get it done. The longer boards are the hardest, not only to pull up, but to transport from Home Depot and they also are the boards with some quirky ends where they but up against the railing posts (4x4's). The next several boards on each side of center are just 45 degree cuts so they'll go quicker. After that, I'll be dealing with 8 footers and smaller which will go really quick and are much easier to transport. It would be easier if I didn't live in a condo and I could have all the wood delivered at one time, but I don't have a place to store it so buying it in batches as I work through it works best.

I cut the old boards into 3 foot sections and bundled them up. I put them out for the trash. I made the bundles pretty light and I'm anxious to see if they take them. My neighbor said they pretty much take anything so we'll see.

Mentally, I was going through a lazy period, so this has really helped me get moving again. That alone makes it worth it. Also, for my time plus $400, I think I'll be pretty happy with the result. I'll let the wood dry out some and then I will pay someone to power wash it and stain it.
 
How long did it take you to find 6 straight 16' boards? I have to go through half the stack just to find that many straight 8' boards.
 
How long did it take you to find 6 straight 16' boards? I have to go through half the stack just to find that many straight 8' boards.
Deck boards don't have to be perfectly straight as you can bend them into position and there will be enough screws to keep them in place.
 
How long did it take you to find 6 straight 16' boards? I have to go through half the stack just to find that many straight 8' boards.
Music Lover is right, but I too have noticed how much quality degradation there has been in wood products of all sorts.

Went through all the "furniture-grade" plywood for a new kitchen countertop at several stores, every piece was bowed. Had to staple an upside-down piece of scrap to the bottom, so the two bows cancelled each other out.

Seriously regretting replacing the shiplap cedar siding on the weathered side of the house; same product, supposedly, but the new pieces arrived bowed and warped all over the place. The installer complained repeatedly about having to work with it, and it looks worse than the original did (a lot of twisting going on).

...and get off my lawn! :rant:
 
How long did it take you to find 6 straight 16' boards? I have to go through half the stack just to find that many straight 8' boards.
It wasn't too bad, but I'd say the reject rate was at least 25%. I also checked for things like really bad knots so that at least on side was presentable. As stated, boards don't have to be perfect though I did strive to fine pretty good ones. The main thing I look for is if they're starting to twist. That's harder to deal with.
 
I am looking at the two 16ft diagonally cut boards I mixed in with the originals on our 20+ yr old deck. After staining, i can barely tell. If not for the diagonal cut I would've flipped them or cut them down to replace shorter boards or stairs.
 
I have an old wood deck - about 30 years old. It's actually not in bad shape. It's sturdy but the base has several boards that have rot and need replaced. One quote was $860 to replace 5 boards and the other quote was $944 to replace 6 boards. The boards are 2x4's and are about 14ft so let's say materials are about $75. So, over $750 in labor to replace some boards on a deck? Wow. DW and I kind of choked on that one. Include power washing the deck and restaining it and the low bid was $1500 and the high bid was over $1800. The deck is 10x12, so not too big.

I'm not inclined to do the work myself, but I'm wondering about getting my SIL to do it. I'd pay someone $500 to do the repair work or give that to SIL. How hard is it to just pull up some deck boards and put some new one's down? Am I kidding myself that these quotes are unrealistic?
One thing I can recommend if you're replacing joists is to use copper treated wood instead of arsenic treated wood. The copper treated is a reddish brown the arsenic treated his green I made a a fence out of that 20 years ago and it's still perfectly good. My mailbox post was also a copper treated 4x4 and I just replaced the mailbox and just a little bit of the end of that 4x4 was starting to rot. For folks who end up with moss or other green things growing on their roofs you can also install a copper strip at the peak that provides a little bit of copper ions whenever it rains but keep your roof from growing anything on it or in it.
 
One thing I can recommend if you're replacing joists is to use copper treated wood instead of arsenic treated wood. The copper treated is a reddish brown the arsenic treated his green I made a a fence out of that 20 years ago and it's still perfectly good. My mailbox post was also a copper treated 4x4 and I just replaced the mailbox and just a little bit of the end of that 4x4 was starting to rot. For folks who end up with moss or other green things growing on their roofs you can also install a copper strip at the peak that provides a little bit of copper ions whenever it rains but keep your roof from growing anything on it or in it.
If I was replacing joists, I'd use joist tape on top of it (or even roofing tar paper if you have some extra lying around). Should outlive the rest of the deck.
 
No joist work. If the underlying frame wasn't stable, I would just replace the entire deck and use a Trex type system.
 
No joist work. If the underlying frame wasn't stable, I would just replace the entire deck and use a Trex type system.
Yeah my rear fences are all copper treated 4x4 posts and rails and the boards I used are 60% hardwood furniture dust and the rest is plastic shopping bag they still look the same as they did when I put them on. Well worth the extra expenditure I decided it was going to be a fence that would outlive me and it's looking like that's possibility
 
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