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Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
Dan
Find a copy of Rick Steve's Italy tour book. He covers all the cities you mentioned and does a great job of finding great eats at reasonable prices.
nwsteve
Dan
Find a copy of Rick Steve's Italy tour book. He covers all the cities you mentioned and does a great job of finding great eats at reasonable prices.
nwsteve
Telly
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Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
Prosciutto, Si! Prosciutto Crudo, NO!!!
If you want to see the main square in Venezia, and the Rialto, etc., get there early in the day. By noon it was almost shoulder-to-shoulder in the main square, the pigeons were landing on the people. BTW, they hide the loo, and you have to pay to get in and use it!
I enjoyed just wandering around the back canals and smaller bridges off of the main loop, some really picturesque places. So easy to get lost without an extremely large detailed map, which I didn't have.
Always wished I would have taken a boat out to one of the outer islands were they do the glasswork. But probably good I didn't, was there in an extreme heat wave across northern Italy. The heat in front of a glass furnace in that weather would have been deadly! If you like ornate glass, there are some really nice shops around the main square, under the collonades. Really beautiful stuff. I just looked.
BTW, somewhere on the northern outskirts of Milano is a Mac's... I never found it.
Had the best chicken-something I've ever had in a small formal restaurant within the small hotel across the road from the entrance to the summer palace in Monza. Open for evening meal only.
Will you be driving? Love those drivers, and traffic circles, particularly the wrong-way round ones!
Wasn't prepared for all the Moslem beggars from Albania and ex-Yugoslavia.
Prosciutto, Si! Prosciutto Crudo, NO!!!
If you want to see the main square in Venezia, and the Rialto, etc., get there early in the day. By noon it was almost shoulder-to-shoulder in the main square, the pigeons were landing on the people. BTW, they hide the loo, and you have to pay to get in and use it!
I enjoyed just wandering around the back canals and smaller bridges off of the main loop, some really picturesque places. So easy to get lost without an extremely large detailed map, which I didn't have.
Always wished I would have taken a boat out to one of the outer islands were they do the glasswork. But probably good I didn't, was there in an extreme heat wave across northern Italy. The heat in front of a glass furnace in that weather would have been deadly! If you like ornate glass, there are some really nice shops around the main square, under the collonades. Really beautiful stuff. I just looked.
BTW, somewhere on the northern outskirts of Milano is a Mac's... I never found it.
Had the best chicken-something I've ever had in a small formal restaurant within the small hotel across the road from the entrance to the summer palace in Monza. Open for evening meal only.
Will you be driving? Love those drivers, and traffic circles, particularly the wrong-way round ones!
Wasn't prepared for all the Moslem beggars from Albania and ex-Yugoslavia.
shiny
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Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
I wish I had written down the name of the restaurants in Venice, but alas, I did not. I never got a bad meal there, I especially liked the small back street trattorias. They sell wine by the liter (or 1/2 liter if you are so inclined) in little jugs, cheaper than water sometimes!
I just re-read a Henry James book based largely in Venice and was thinking how great it would be to spend a month or so there, not having to run around, but just take it in at a leisurely pace.
I wish I had written down the name of the restaurants in Venice, but alas, I did not. I never got a bad meal there, I especially liked the small back street trattorias. They sell wine by the liter (or 1/2 liter if you are so inclined) in little jugs, cheaper than water sometimes!
I just re-read a Henry James book based largely in Venice and was thinking how great it would be to spend a month or so there, not having to run around, but just take it in at a leisurely pace.
C
Cut-Throat
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Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
Never have found a bad meal in Italy! -- Some of the best were little cafes, run by the owner. Pasta, bread, Vino and you're set. 8)
DanTien said:We'll be in Venice, Florence, Bologna, Siena, & Milan. Appreciate any eat ideas.
Never have found a bad meal in Italy! -- Some of the best were little cafes, run by the owner. Pasta, bread, Vino and you're set. 8)
retire@40
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Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
I went to those islands and they were less congested than the main island. Murano is the island known for glassmaking and Burano is the island known for it's lace products.
As far as food, you really can't go wrong anywhere. There's an outdoor pizzeria in Venice along the Canale Grande that makes fantastic personal pizzas. I can't remember the name, but it's on the far opposite side of the canal from St. Mark's Square and is real popular with the locals. I think it's called "tre archi" or "tre ponti." You can't miss it when you see it.
In Siena, visit some of the surrounding towns like San Gimignano and try any dish made with boar, you can't go wrong. For desserts look for "ricciarelli" (almond cookies) and "panforte" (fruitcake) very popular in Siena. At the end of a meal, ask for some grappa or limoncello to cleanse your palate and help your digestion, or whatever excuse you want to use to have a drink.
And every day, treat yourself to a "gelato" no matter where you are in Italy.
Telly said:
I went to those islands and they were less congested than the main island. Murano is the island known for glassmaking and Burano is the island known for it's lace products.
As far as food, you really can't go wrong anywhere. There's an outdoor pizzeria in Venice along the Canale Grande that makes fantastic personal pizzas. I can't remember the name, but it's on the far opposite side of the canal from St. Mark's Square and is real popular with the locals. I think it's called "tre archi" or "tre ponti." You can't miss it when you see it.
In Siena, visit some of the surrounding towns like San Gimignano and try any dish made with boar, you can't go wrong. For desserts look for "ricciarelli" (almond cookies) and "panforte" (fruitcake) very popular in Siena. At the end of a meal, ask for some grappa or limoncello to cleanse your palate and help your digestion, or whatever excuse you want to use to have a drink.
And every day, treat yourself to a "gelato" no matter where you are in Italy.
Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
No crudo for me - wife was feeling me out about my carpuccio attitude last night..I also hate this hiding of the loo - and charging for finding it...Maybe I should request loo locations in these cities...
I also will do much wandering - staying at Ca Angeli B&B in Venice near the San Silvestro - seems quiet but still on the Grand Canal and not far to the pigeons. Hope no high water
No driving will use my feet, vaporettos and the EuroStar.
Telly said:
No crudo for me - wife was feeling me out about my carpuccio attitude last night..I also hate this hiding of the loo - and charging for finding it...Maybe I should request loo locations in these cities... I also will do much wandering - staying at Ca Angeli B&B in Venice near the San Silvestro - seems quiet but still on the Grand Canal and not far to the pigeons. Hope no high water
No driving will use my feet, vaporettos and the EuroStar.
Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
My dream - live life in interesting places
nwsteve - thanks, will put him on my book listnwsteve said:
Thinking those back street "local" places are where I will be found. We are inclined to the litershiny said:
My dream - live life in interesting places I'm hungryCut-Throat said:
I'm hungryretire@40 said:
Re: Northern Italy - Restaurant Recommendations?
would actually rec. avoiding Rick Steve's rec's not for the food or prices, but b/c you'll run into tons of Americans (esp in tourist season).
Would strongly rec. the website slowtalk.com which is the RE equivalent of Italino-philes. These people work to save up enough for their next trip to Italy, and then some.
Avoid anyplace that has a French-German-English equivalent menu.
If the place is full before 19:30, that's a bad sign b/c Italians don't eat before then and the patrons are probably tourists.
Look at the eyewitness guide book for pictures and descrip of regional specialties: you want to order the specialties of the partic. region for the best tastes.
Will you have a car? Unfortunately, during the two years that we lived in Italy, we did have some bad meals. Italians are very entrepreneurial- if they can get well-paid feeding pasta one step up from Chef boy RD to some tourists that they'll never see again, they'll do so.
If you like cashmere, lots of outlets in the places you're headed.
would actually rec. avoiding Rick Steve's rec's not for the food or prices, but b/c you'll run into tons of Americans (esp in tourist season).
Would strongly rec. the website slowtalk.com which is the RE equivalent of Italino-philes. These people work to save up enough for their next trip to Italy, and then some.
Avoid anyplace that has a French-German-English equivalent menu.
If the place is full before 19:30, that's a bad sign b/c Italians don't eat before then and the patrons are probably tourists.
Look at the eyewitness guide book for pictures and descrip of regional specialties: you want to order the specialties of the partic. region for the best tastes.
Will you have a car? Unfortunately, during the two years that we lived in Italy, we did have some bad meals. Italians are very entrepreneurial- if they can get well-paid feeding pasta one step up from Chef boy RD to some tourists that they'll never see again, they'll do so.
If you like cashmere, lots of outlets in the places you're headed.
Re: Northern Italy - Eat & Restroom Recommendations?
P.S. - thanks. I'll check out Eyewitness & slowtalk.com and look for Italian only menus...We plan on eating late - around 8:30...eating area's specialities makes sense, different from U.S. eh?... I'm thinking seafood in Venice...no car...will try to seek out the small places where locals eat..
P.S. - thanks. I'll check out Eyewitness & slowtalk.com and look for Italian only menus...We plan on eating late - around 8:30...eating area's specialities makes sense, different from U.S. eh?... I'm thinking seafood in Venice...no car...will try to seek out the small places where locals eat..
Re: Northern Italy - Eat & Restroom Recommendations?
If it makes you feel better, I DID take the boat to the lace and glass islands, and wish I had not. They were only ok and took the better part of a day to make the loop. Given unlimited time, I'd recommend them but if you only have a week or less you can buy anything they have in Venice proper, and spend the time on another museum or duomo or just eating gelato all day!
I'm surprised to hear folks talking about the loo -- I always asked a shopkeeper and was let in without charge -- I don't speak Italian but I learned enough to politely ask for the basics -- that and a big smile went a LONG way toward getting good service and help from the locals.
As to food, Rick Steves never betrayed our trust -- but as has been said it's hard to get a bad meal in Italy. Just remember that the farther you are from the main squares and the heavy tourist activity the cheaper the same dishes will be.
Rick Steves is also a must-read for those tips that make your trip much more rewarding. For example, we made reservations the night before we went to the Pitti Palace in Florence, then waltzed right in the next morning while a massive line of tourists without reservations sweated the line for 3-4 hours.
Hope you have a FABULOUS trip, but then, it's Italy. How can you not!
Take care,
Caroline
If it makes you feel better, I DID take the boat to the lace and glass islands, and wish I had not. They were only ok and took the better part of a day to make the loop. Given unlimited time, I'd recommend them but if you only have a week or less you can buy anything they have in Venice proper, and spend the time on another museum or duomo or just eating gelato all day!
I'm surprised to hear folks talking about the loo -- I always asked a shopkeeper and was let in without charge -- I don't speak Italian but I learned enough to politely ask for the basics -- that and a big smile went a LONG way toward getting good service and help from the locals.
As to food, Rick Steves never betrayed our trust -- but as has been said it's hard to get a bad meal in Italy. Just remember that the farther you are from the main squares and the heavy tourist activity the cheaper the same dishes will be.
Rick Steves is also a must-read for those tips that make your trip much more rewarding. For example, we made reservations the night before we went to the Pitti Palace in Florence, then waltzed right in the next morning while a massive line of tourists without reservations sweated the line for 3-4 hours.
Hope you have a FABULOUS trip, but then, it's Italy. How can you not!
Take care,
Caroline
Re: Northern Italy - Best Places to Eat & Refresh Yourself
Caroline - Thanks for your info and good wishes.
I guess I'll manage with the loo I'm sure After all, there are the canals in Venice and who would notice anyway....I got accustomed to paying in Paris and really it is nice to have a clean place for those intimate moments...I'm sure I'll find what I need in restaurants, churches and museums..boy enough already on that subject, I promise that won't be the only thing on my mind while I walk the city streets.
Thanks for the mention about the reservations - I hate lines... And yes a smile and trying to speak the language I hope will go a long way in Italy. In Paris, as soon as they heard me they wanted to switch to english.
regards DanTien
Caroline - Thanks for your info and good wishes.
I guess I'll manage with the loo I'm sure
After all, there are the canals in Venice and who would notice anyway....I got accustomed to paying in Paris and really it is nice to have a clean place for those intimate moments...I'm sure I'll find what I need in restaurants, churches and museums..boy enough already on that subject, I promise that won't be the only thing on my mind while I walk the city streets.Thanks for the mention about the reservations - I hate lines...
And yes a smile and trying to speak the language I hope will go a long way in Italy. In Paris, as soon as they heard me they wanted to switch to english. regards DanTien
Re: Northern Italy - Best Places to Eat & Refresh Yourself
Cut-Throat - what a cool way to do Italy.
I am going to be far from the trout streams, but I will be eating much fresh fish hopefully in the real neighborhoods of these cities - of which I am hopeful there are.
Cut-Throat - what a cool way to do Italy.
I am going to be far from the trout streams, but I will be eating much fresh fish hopefully in the real neighborhoods of these cities - of which I am hopeful there are.
Re: Northern Italy - Best Places to Eat & Refresh Yourself
Italians have the same evacuation systems as Americans, just different cultural standards. Asking a shopkeeper to use their WC would be akin to knocking on a residential door to use its toilet. Since tourists will pay to use the toilet, then Italians are happy to collect, and even pass you a nicely folded piece of TP.
The "public" toilets for free are in cafes. You can go into any one and use it, even if you don't buy a drink. And if you make like really desperate, they are usually very gracious when showing you the way. The "American" in me though, usually felt obligated to buy something, so DH was always willing to comply by enjoying a cappucino or espresso while I took care of business.
DanTien said:I guess I'll manage with the loo I'm sure
Italians have the same evacuation systems as Americans, just different cultural standards. Asking a shopkeeper to use their WC would be akin to knocking on a residential door to use its toilet. Since tourists will pay to use the toilet, then Italians are happy to collect, and even pass you a nicely folded piece of TP.
The "public" toilets for free are in cafes. You can go into any one and use it, even if you don't buy a drink. And if you make like really desperate, they are usually very gracious when showing you the way. The "American" in me though, usually felt obligated to buy something, so DH was always willing to comply by enjoying a cappucino or espresso while I took care of business.
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
Just went this summer to northern Italy to hike the Dolomitis - I'll say Rick Steves has good advice as to how to enjoy places, but hotel deals can be had in many ways and places. Lonely Planet guides are great, too - a little more for the hostel crowd but the history and neat things to see and/or buy are right on and the ways to get around cheaply using mass tranport work, too.
Italy is a great place to just wander - I usually take one tour when I get to a town and then go off in my own direction from there. I read up a bit on the place beforehand and then have a list of non-negotiables I wish to do/see. Also, each of those regions has their specialty wrt foods and wines. Frankly, I never had a bad meal in northern Italy except for the refugio I was in this last summer. The towns you listed are in Tuscany, Umbria and the coast region. Each has it's own history as well.
Whatever your particular interest, you can find something - military history, religious history, craft history, art history....it's all there. And then the food Plus just enjoying the people and their personalities is great.
Gelato will be a must - try Tuscan bean soup, eat the special of the day - it usually is made from ingredients that are fresh at that time of the year. Always order to Vino di Casa - house wine - can't go wrong there.
Also, there is always an "i" in every town - it is marked with an "i" and is the tourist information bureau - this is where a wealth of information regarding the town can be found. We were able to see a free open air classical concert in the town of Trento by asking the guides at the 'i'. They all speak English and usually give out free maps. Also, almost all towns have little walking tours mapped out that you can do which will also point out different historical points of the town. Do not be afraid to ask the locals the best places to eat, buy something, hike, whatever your fancy. Get lost and enjoy it---my best finds have been while either wandering or attempting to speak in their language to ask a question.
Sorry about the rambling - I really miss living in Europe and love reminiscing about my wandering there.
Bridget
Just went this summer to northern Italy to hike the Dolomitis - I'll say Rick Steves has good advice as to how to enjoy places, but hotel deals can be had in many ways and places. Lonely Planet guides are great, too - a little more for the hostel crowd but the history and neat things to see and/or buy are right on and the ways to get around cheaply using mass tranport work, too.
Italy is a great place to just wander - I usually take one tour when I get to a town and then go off in my own direction from there. I read up a bit on the place beforehand and then have a list of non-negotiables I wish to do/see. Also, each of those regions has their specialty wrt foods and wines. Frankly, I never had a bad meal in northern Italy except for the refugio I was in this last summer. The towns you listed are in Tuscany, Umbria and the coast region. Each has it's own history as well.
Whatever your particular interest, you can find something - military history, religious history, craft history, art history....it's all there. And then the food
Plus just enjoying the people and their personalities is great.Gelato will be a must - try Tuscan bean soup, eat the special of the day - it usually is made from ingredients that are fresh at that time of the year. Always order to Vino di Casa - house wine - can't go wrong there.
Also, there is always an "i" in every town - it is marked with an "i" and is the tourist information bureau - this is where a wealth of information regarding the town can be found. We were able to see a free open air classical concert in the town of Trento by asking the guides at the 'i'. They all speak English and usually give out free maps. Also, almost all towns have little walking tours mapped out that you can do which will also point out different historical points of the town. Do not be afraid to ask the locals the best places to eat, buy something, hike, whatever your fancy. Get lost and enjoy it---my best finds have been while either wandering or attempting to speak in their language to ask a question.
Sorry about the rambling - I really miss living in Europe and love reminiscing about my wandering there.
Bridget
Calgary_Girl
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Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
Am I the only one that doesn't care for Italy? DH and I were in Venice a couple of years ago and we didn't care for it too much after 2 days once the novelty wore off. We found Italian food expensive and the locals pretty rude.
After Venice, we headed to Dubrovnik and luckily the vacation picked up. We had a great time and will definitely be going back there.
Am I the only one that doesn't care for Italy? DH and I were in Venice a couple of years ago and we didn't care for it too much after 2 days once the novelty wore off. We found Italian food expensive and the locals pretty rude.
After Venice, we headed to Dubrovnik and luckily the vacation picked up. We had a great time and will definitely be going back there.
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
Dan
When we did Venice the Italy "pros" told us it would either be our favorite or least favorite city. Nothing in between. For the record, it was our least favorite of all our visits in 3 weeks. We much preferred Tuscany and the coast. Ravena is was just as interesting for us and far more Italian--has some of the best preserved frescoes and of course Dante' grave
Have a great trip
nwsteve
Dan
When we did Venice the Italy "pros" told us it would either be our favorite or least favorite city. Nothing in between. For the record, it was our least favorite of all our visits in 3 weeks. We much preferred Tuscany and the coast. Ravena is was just as interesting for us and far more Italian--has some of the best preserved frescoes and of course Dante' grave
Have a great trip
nwsteve
Telly
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Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
I understand your point on rudeness. Except for a day trip to Venezia, I was away from tourist areas. Was there for work for a while, stayed in a small hotel, drove myself around. The only native English speakers I ever came across were two Brits in the Venezia loo complaining about having to pay (I didn't complain about paying, I just wish they hadn't hidden the facilities from everyone! Oww I'm gonna burst! Saw many Italians asking each other "banyo").
Oh, and I helped one English semi-trailer driver find how to get to the Monza track. He was locked up in weekend traffic, was yelling out to anybody, they all ignored him. He was SO glad I could help him!
I found that most Italians would try to take some time and try to figure out what you were asking, if you tried it in Italiano. Otherwise, they usually wouldn't bother, just wave me off. Some older people did that no matter what. If it was something more than a simple phrase, I would try to target young people that looked like they may be college students. A guy and a girl together fitting that description usually worked best. The chances of them knowing some English was much better, and the two together did not feel threatened by some foreigner coming up and babbling something to them with some hand waving!
I found the people overall to be reasonably friendly, as long as they weren't behind the wheel. Which sounds much like Americans, sad to say. I felt much better in Italy, than in France. But my France experience was only Paris and environs. I hold out hope that most of the French were not like that which I experienced. Like I say, I hold out hope
Calgary_Girl said:
I understand your point on rudeness. Except for a day trip to Venezia, I was away from tourist areas. Was there for work for a while, stayed in a small hotel, drove myself around. The only native English speakers I ever came across were two Brits in the Venezia loo complaining about having to pay (I didn't complain about paying, I just wish they hadn't hidden the facilities from everyone! Oww I'm gonna burst! Saw many Italians asking each other "banyo"
).Oh, and I helped one English semi-trailer driver find how to get to the Monza track. He was locked up in weekend traffic, was yelling out to anybody, they all ignored him. He was SO glad I could help him!
I found that most Italians would try to take some time and try to figure out what you were asking, if you tried it in Italiano. Otherwise, they usually wouldn't bother, just wave me off. Some older people did that no matter what. If it was something more than a simple phrase, I would try to target young people that looked like they may be college students. A guy and a girl together fitting that description usually worked best. The chances of them knowing some English was much better, and the two together did not feel threatened by some foreigner coming up and babbling something to them with some hand waving!
I found the people overall to be reasonably friendly, as long as they weren't behind the wheel. Which sounds much like Americans, sad to say. I felt much better in Italy, than in France. But my France experience was only Paris and environs. I hold out hope that most of the French were not like that which I experienced. Like I say, I hold out hope
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
Will be there 3 nights, deciding between Padua and Ravenna (we are interested in the mosaics) for a day excursion.
Will be staying at this B&B : http://www.caangeli.net/ing/location.htm
cordiali saluti!
Thanks nwsteve, Venice will be what it is and we will savor every step, bite, conversation and minute of it!nwsteve said:
Will be there 3 nights, deciding between Padua and Ravenna (we are interested in the mosaics) for a day excursion. Will be staying at this B&B : http://www.caangeli.net/ing/location.htm
cordiali saluti!
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
We're not easily offended when traveling and make it a point to smile & laugh off minor stuff - major ones we keep the big picture in mind. We had a great 2 weeks in Paris - enjoyed our French waiters - we wanted attitude and professionalism and got it. We met many helpful and friendly Parisians - I think they liked that we tried to speak french - even though they stopped me immediately because it pained them to hear me. I know we will enjoy the Italians. For me attitude is so very important in how my day turns out
La vita é una bella lotta
Telly said:I found the people overall to be reasonably friendly, as long as they weren't behind the wheel. Which sounds much like Americans, sad to say. I felt much better in Italy, than in France. But my France experience was only Paris and environs. I hold out hope that most of the French were not like that which I experienced. Like I say, I hold out hope
We're not easily offended when traveling and make it a point to smile & laugh off minor stuff - major ones we keep the big picture in mind. We had a great 2 weeks in Paris - enjoyed our French waiters - we wanted attitude and professionalism and got it. We met many helpful and friendly Parisians - I think they liked that we tried to speak french - even though they stopped me immediately because it pained them to hear me. I know we will enjoy the Italians. For me attitude is so very important in how my day turns outLa vita é una bella lotta
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
I know it's so not real Italy but we need to do this before we are 
You've never been? Not curious? Does DW feel the same? If you do find yourself there against your will - you could make the best of it: 8)
http://www.chriskahanek.com/italy/Venezia/Fishing.jpg
We are tourists and we don't fish!Cut-Throat said:
I know it's so not real Italy but we need to do this before we are You've never been? Not curious? Does DW feel the same? If you do find yourself there against your will - you could make the best of it: 8)
http://www.chriskahanek.com/italy/Venezia/Fishing.jpg
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/09/22/books/22masl.html?th&emc=th
For those interested in Venice, a new book. I have read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil and it was excellent, much better than the movie. Just a little of the article below:
The New York Times
September 22, 2005
Turning Venice Into Savannah on Stilts
By JANET MASLIN
On a snow-white page at the start of John Berendt's new book the rest of his bibliography is listed. "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil": that's it, and it was published 11½ years ago. Mr. Berendt's smash-hit foray into the gothic secrets of Savannah, Ga., looked like an impossible act to follow - until a spin of the globe led him to Venice, Italy, in search of a similar setting. For all practical purposes he has found one. "The City of Falling Angels" does its best to turn Venice into Savannah on stilts.
No writer looking for murky intrigue will leave Venice disappointed. But, as Mr. Berendt points out, most well-known visions of Venice come from outsiders, even visitors on the order of Thomas Mann and Henry James. He chose instead to infiltrate the place deeply enough to interpret local customs like the catching of pigeons in nets to spirit them out of Venice's public places. He would come to realize that "we're taking them to the veterinarian" was how a discreet Venetian might phrase a pigeon-unfriendly thought.
Mr. Berendt fills his new book with wily figures like the pigeon hunters. But he much prefers the ones trying to bag bigger game. In an interlocking set of stories loosely gathered around the investigation of a spectacular fire, he describes all manner of bizarre patricians and clever parasites, real artists and con artists, annual Carnival participants and those who stay in costume all year round, all united in cherishing Venice's melancholy grandeur. He seeks out the ineffably, aristocratically strange. The man whose palazzo features three space suits and a stuffed monkey is par for the course.
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/09/22/books/22masl.html?th&emc=th
For those interested in Venice, a new book. I have read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil and it was excellent, much better than the movie. Just a little of the article below:
The New York Times
September 22, 2005
Turning Venice Into Savannah on Stilts
By JANET MASLIN
On a snow-white page at the start of John Berendt's new book the rest of his bibliography is listed. "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil": that's it, and it was published 11½ years ago. Mr. Berendt's smash-hit foray into the gothic secrets of Savannah, Ga., looked like an impossible act to follow - until a spin of the globe led him to Venice, Italy, in search of a similar setting. For all practical purposes he has found one. "The City of Falling Angels" does its best to turn Venice into Savannah on stilts.
No writer looking for murky intrigue will leave Venice disappointed. But, as Mr. Berendt points out, most well-known visions of Venice come from outsiders, even visitors on the order of Thomas Mann and Henry James. He chose instead to infiltrate the place deeply enough to interpret local customs like the catching of pigeons in nets to spirit them out of Venice's public places. He would come to realize that "we're taking them to the veterinarian" was how a discreet Venetian might phrase a pigeon-unfriendly thought.
Mr. Berendt fills his new book with wily figures like the pigeon hunters. But he much prefers the ones trying to bag bigger game. In an interlocking set of stories loosely gathered around the investigation of a spectacular fire, he describes all manner of bizarre patricians and clever parasites, real artists and con artists, annual Carnival participants and those who stay in costume all year round, all united in cherishing Venice's melancholy grandeur. He seeks out the ineffably, aristocratically strange. The man whose palazzo features three space suits and a stuffed monkey is par for the course.
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
DanTiem: Excellent attitude, and one that will serve you well whether traveling over-seas or dealing with everyday situations locally.
Have a great trip.
Jarhead
DanTien said:
La vita é una bella lotta
DanTiem: Excellent attitude, and one that will serve you well whether traveling over-seas or dealing with everyday situations locally.
Have a great trip.
Jarhead
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Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
I've learned that too when traveling abroad. I put the saying "When in Rome do like the Romans" to use in Rome as well as every other destination I've been.
I tend to want to do things my way all the time, and usually I get to do everything my way. However, when I travel, I am in the hands of the people around me. If the train will be 2 hours late, I don't get steamed and start mumbling to myself. It's a common thing in Italy and the locals think of it as an opportunity to go get a caffe'. The driver behind you starts tailgating as most do in Europe, just move to the right and let him go by. You order a pizza at the pizzeria and they tell you it's Monday and they don't make pizza on Mondays (it happened to me), then order the daily special.
A good traveler is one that can roll with the punches and is not be picky about having everything done exactly his way.
DanTien said:
I've learned that too when traveling abroad. I put the saying "When in Rome do like the Romans" to use in Rome as well as every other destination I've been.
I tend to want to do things my way all the time, and usually I get to do everything my way. However, when I travel, I am in the hands of the people around me. If the train will be 2 hours late, I don't get steamed and start mumbling to myself. It's a common thing in Italy and the locals think of it as an opportunity to go get a caffe'. The driver behind you starts tailgating as most do in Europe, just move to the right and let him go by. You order a pizza at the pizzeria and they tell you it's Monday and they don't make pizza on Mondays (it happened to me), then order the daily special.
A good traveler is one that can roll with the punches and is not be picky about having everything done exactly his way.
Re: Northern Italy - Travel Advice
That is interesting about the opinions on Venice - of all the cities he had listed, Venice is my least favorite - in fact, I've seen it twice and have no desire to go back. I'm into Roman ruins and there is a port with beautiful mosaics near there that I'd go to first - Aquilea. I'd also head north to the Dolomiti and/or head over to the Julian Alps in Slovenia (beautiful country, great people and cheap and very near Venice area as compared to some of the distances we have in the US).
I loved Florence and Siena - did Rome in a day - think that most big cities are just that, big cities and they all begin to look the same after you've visited a few.
Driving through the hills and back roads (not the Autostrada) from Florence to Orvieto was one of the most beautiful I've been on - southern Tuscany and northern Umbria, rolling vineyards and Italian estates - gorgeous.
Bridget
That is interesting about the opinions on Venice - of all the cities he had listed, Venice is my least favorite - in fact, I've seen it twice and have no desire to go back. I'm into Roman ruins and there is a port with beautiful mosaics near there that I'd go to first - Aquilea. I'd also head north to the Dolomiti and/or head over to the Julian Alps in Slovenia (beautiful country, great people and cheap and very near Venice area as compared to some of the distances we have in the US).
I loved Florence and Siena - did Rome in a day - think that most big cities are just that, big cities and they all begin to look the same after you've visited a few.
Driving through the hills and back roads (not the Autostrada) from Florence to Orvieto was one of the most beautiful I've been on - southern Tuscany and northern Umbria, rolling vineyards and Italian estates - gorgeous.
Bridget
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