Car loan application as a retiree

Last time I bought a car I put $5k on the CC (the most they would allow) and wrote a personal check for about $23k.

Just bought a new Mercedes today. Of interest, if you put your deposit on American Express, Amex will pay as little as $500 to as much as $12,000 ( depending on model) toward your car.

Not sure if it is limited to Mercedes, but it was a nice surprise.
 
It's true there is "no problem" with over $10K BUT you will be KYC reported for it. That report, in and of itself may not get you "looked at" but it could - especially if there were some other excuse. Now, "carrying" that much cash (or even less) is (has been, at least) enough to confiscate it and force you to "prove" that you got it legally and plan to use it legally. The burden is on you, not the confiscating authority. And, you don't get it back in a timely fashion once it's confiscated. Maybe this is all rare, but it has happened.

I'm only suggesting that large purchases are "safer" in many ways with checks/CCs, etc. rather than with cash. Each to his/her own and YMMV and all that good stuff. If lots of cash is fun, by all means, it's your money.:)


Returning you now...


Sometimes I use a bank transfer and sometimes why I fly to buy a vehicle I go thru TSA with cash and I don't put it on the belt.
 
I’m doing a bit of a Blow-That Dough in a couple weeks by buying my first “luxury car”. After rolling in my trade in, taxes, fees, etc. I’m expecting about a $40k amount due.

I can easily pull this money out of savings to buy the car. Not a problem. But I’m guessing the dealer will want a cashier check and I won’t know the exact amount until I go in and negotiate the deal. I live 2 hours from the dealer, so I can’t just go down the street to get a check.

Any advice based on my rambling thread?

Semi-related: When we picked up our 2024 Trax this year, the total with registration & sales tax was a little over $24K. We asked if they needed us to go to our bank (5 miles away) and get a cashier's check and the finance guy said he'd be fine with a personal check. :eek:
My credit rating is around 830. I should have asked if we could have put some of it on the Amazon™ Visa card to earn some cash back. :facepalm:
 
I had a similar situation and the dealer allowed me to write a personal check for the entire balance. Have you asked to see if this is something they are open to?
 
Driving 2 hrs and you have a trade-in scares me. I would go to carmax and maybe another place or two and get a price. Walk away if you need to.
 
Put as much as you can on a 2% cash back credit card. They usually allow $5,000. What you don't finance, write a check. No need for cashier's checks.

MN54 is right. Do not drive to the dealer until you have a firm out the door price on the vehicle without the trade in the equation.

They'll lowball you on the trade, so walk toward the door as many times as you have to, to get what you want. Get a price on the trade from Carvana and CarMax ahead of time so you know what it's worth to another dealer.

If you're going to finance, unlock your credit ahead of time or be prepared to do it at the dealer.

Have your mind made up ahead of time before you go into the F&I office whether you are going to finance and whether you want an extended warranty and stick to your guns. Don't tell them ahead of time what your plans are on financing and extended warranties, prepaid service plans and all the other stuff they may try to push on you during the sales pitch in the F&I office.

You lead all the conversations and don't let them talk you into anything you don't want. Have your mind made up ahead of time that you will walk without hesitation if they won't give you the deal you want. And, have fun with it and keep a sense of humor while negotiating. Don't be afraid to laugh if they propose some ridiculous deal.
Agree with all the above. This is the way I did it. CC and pers check.
 
Keep in mind that the dealer always thinks that he has the "high ground," & can dictate how every facet of how the sale will go. Your job is simple - get that turned 180 degrees! It's your money, your choice, & assuming a great credit score, your option to walk! Don't ask, & don't negotiate! On another thread, I wrote about buying a luxury car (Maserati), & at the last minute, the dealer tacked on an arbitrary $1000. I demanded to see the manager, & when he smirked, & said that he wouldn't honor the agreed-upon amount (his was the only dealer in the state), his smirk turned to horror, when I tore up my personal check (credit score 830), & left! We're very much enjoying the Mercedes we bought, while he was leaving multiple voicemail messages, trying to get us back. Take the high ground, & keep it, until you're driving away, waving goodbye...with one finger!
 
^^^^^^^


Yeah, I started almost $1000 apart on a deal on a new '81 minivan (I mention the year to show the relative difference to today's "insane" prices.) The sales guy started with the typical "I'll have to run this by the sales manager, but I'm sure he'll reject it."

I said "Thanks for your time and if you change your mind - and can meet MY deal - you can call me." I got up to leave and on the long walk to the door, the sales deal kept changing (salesman doing all the talking.) When I got to the door, he accepted (no sales manager needed.) Being ready to walk is your most powerful weapon - maybe your only one.
 
... Being ready to walk is your most powerful weapon - maybe your only one.
Actually there is one more powerful weapon: your "absent authority."

Abbreviated story: Elderly friend, Margaret, whom I had coached went into a Toyota dealership shopping for a car. That went well, but when they gave her the price she hesited and said "My husband Frank will never let me pay that much." (as I had coached her to say) Back and forth several times trying to find a car, a price, options, and a color that would pass Frank's inspection. Second to last price she stood up and said she had to go home and check with Frank. Upset salesman got her to sit back down, lowered the price again, and she took the deal.

At that time in his life, Frank was so deep into Alzheimer's that he didn't even remember Margaret's name. But it didn't matter. It didn't even matter whether Frank existed or not. Frank was the absent authority driving the deal and Margaret was metaphorically sitting on the salesman's side of the table working with him to come up with something that would satisfy Frank. The salesman never knew what hit him.

Absent authority negotiating is easy once you get the concept. I was in a partnership for about 12 years and any time there was a serious negotiation (we sold capital equipment), only one of us would be in the room or on the phone call and the other would be the absent authority. Doing small business pro bono coaching I have several times had the client use me as the absent authority when negotiating and it always worked out well.

That's what you're getting when the car salesperson says "Please wait a minute, I have to talk to my sales manager." before he leaves the room to take a break. We customers can play that game too.
 
Actually there is one more powerful weapon: your "absent authority."

Abbreviated story: Elderly friend, Margaret, whom I had coached went into a Toyota dealership shopping for a car. That went well, but when they gave her the price she hesited and said "My husband Frank will never let me pay that much." (as I had coached her to say) Back and forth several times trying to find a car, a price, options, and a color that would pass Frank's inspection. Second to last price she stood up and said she had to go home and check with Frank. Upset salesman got her to sit back down, lowered the price again, and she took the deal.

At that time in his life, Frank was so deep into Alzheimer's that he didn't even remember Margaret's name. But it didn't matter. It didn't even matter whether Frank existed or not. Frank was the absent authority driving the deal and Margaret was metaphorically sitting on the salesman's side of the table working with him to come up with something that would satisfy Frank. The salesman never knew what hit him.

Absent authority negotiating is easy once you get the concept. I was in a partnership for about 12 years and any time there was a serious negotiation (we sold capital equipment), only one of us would be in the room or on the phone call and the other would be the absent authority. Doing small business pro bono coaching I have several times had the client use me as the absent authority when negotiating and it always worked out well.

That's what you're getting when the car salesperson says "Please wait a minute, I have to talk to my sales manager." before he leaves the room to take a break. We customers can play that game too.


I like it. I guess in my case, I'd have to say that DW has all the money and she'll have to approve before I buy.:cool:
 
I like it. I guess in my case, I'd have to say that DW has all the money and she'll have to approve before I buy.:cool:
That works. Even if you have no DW.

It is also the reason that the free-steak-dinner guys and the timeshare salespeople push hard to have both of you at their events. Same-o car salespeople. They don't want the possibility of an absent authority screwing up their deal.
 
OP here. To close this thread out, I thought I'd summarize how my car purchase transaction went down. Sorry for the long post, but a lot happened. Feel free to ignore it and move on. Bottom Line -- I got my car and the process was a good one.

1. I did not need to negotiate on the selling price of the new car. I qualified for a Ford program that gave me a fixed/known price, well below MSRP, that I was happy with and that the dealer exactly agreed on. The dealer was informed of, and approved my use of, the discount program pricing well in advance of the transaction date. The program was for retirees from partner/supplier companies of Ford. Keep that in mind for later on.

2. Doc Fees are fixed at $150 by that program.

2a. I had zero interest in selling my used car on my own. Not my thing.

3. I had informed the dealer that I planned on trading in my existing car. I gave them the VIN, mileage and other details in advance to hopefully minimize my time at the dealer.

4. In prep for defending the value of my trade-in, I got online quotes from Kelly Blue Book, Caravan and CarMax. I also drove into CarMax and had them do it in person a while later. Their "in-person" quote was actually $1700 more than the online quote was. All of these quotes were within $2500 of each other or so. CarMax was my primary backup plan because I could just do that locally, in person. Although it was 2 hours in the other direction from the dealer and my home.

4. I live in PA. In our state, when we buy a new car, IF we trade it in at the same time, we only pay sales tax on the difference between the price of the two cars. If I sold it separately, I would have to pay much more in sales tax on the new car. So, my goal was to get the dealer to match CarMax's offer OR at least offer enough so that I would break even compared to having to separately sell it and pay the higher sales tax.

5. I created a spreadsheet of the various possible ways the transaction could go down at various price points for the trade-in. I had a "wouldn't it be ideal" high price and a range down to "I make more money selling it to CarMax". That range was just a little over $2000.

6. I needed to drive about 2 hours to get to the dealer. Just as I was getting ready to leave the house, the sales rep called me to ask for more details about my use of the Ford program participation. He wanted to know what I planned to use to document that I was actually a retiree of my company. He tried to tell me that I needed to bring some form of proof they were currently providing insurance, pension, or some benefit to me. None of these were true. I told him that I could only bring my last two W2s (2018 and 2019) and my employee number so they could call to verify if they wanted to. He was very uncertain that this would suffice. I told him that my definition of being a retiree was that I worked for them for 20 years, left in good standing after announcing my retirement, and never worked again elsewhere. I told him that if they didn't accept the plan, to tell me now, since I wasn't going to buy without that pricing. I would turn the car around and figure out some other plan (after doing more research). He told me he would look more into it. While I was driving, I pulled into a rest stop and emailed him the "rules" of the program that were made available to me on the plan's website. A quick look found that they do not adequately define "retiree" and they also don't elaborate on how a retiree would document their qualification for the program. All the examples listed are more for current employees. He replied that I should not worry, "we are going to honor the deal either way." So that was a big relief.

7. I get to the dealership and we quickly touched on the issue, but he says we are going to proceed to use the program and my W2s and see what happens. They have to submit this info to Ford as part of the program. I assume that if Ford balks, he'll just figure out how to switch it over to a regular dealer discount off MSRP.

8. Test drive goes very well. I love the car. Time to go in for negotiation. I was at a Lincoln dealership and he told me we needed to go down the street to the sister Ford dealership because the Lincoln finance guy was off that day.

9. Up to this point, the sales rep never mentioned my trade-in. I was expecting them to value it while we did the test drive. So when it appeared that had not been done, I assumed they would do it as we drove up to Ford. When I mentioned that, the sales rep looked a little confused and said "didn't I give you a number". I thought he was referring to some sort of number sign that you hang from the mirror to ID my car to the used car pricing guy. So I said no. He then went out and got my mileage and then went behind closed doors, I assumed to start the valuation process. Off we go to Ford. Note, at this point, the only $ I know about is the agreed upon price of the new car.

10. At the Ford dealership, he seats me and says Jenn will be finishing up the transaction. I thought that was odd, since I've only ever worked with the sales rep up thru and including final price agreements. But I didn't say anything, since I guessed they just did things differently at this dealership. Jenn came out and got my driver's license and my title to the trade-in car. Then she came back out and said "ok, I'm ready for you... c'mon in my office".

11. After some pleasant chit-chat, she starts setting up her stack of documents for signatures. First up.... sign this form to acknowledge the current mileage on your trade in.

12. I interrupted her and said... "excuse me, I don't think I want to turn my existing vehicle over until I know the full $ terms of the deal". She looked a little confused. I said, "I have not been told how much you are offering me for my trade-in". She said "Bill, didn't cover that already?". I said "No." She said "excuse me for a minute" and left to speak with Bill.

13. Of note: Up to this point, I had not told Bill (or Jenn) that I was wanting to pay cash for the car. I had previously emailed Bill and asked for their policy on personal and cashier's checks. In that email, I told him that I had not yet decided if I wanted to finance or pay cash.

14. Bill comes in the office (without Jenn) and says, "didn't I give you the amount we're offering for your car?" I said "No". He said he thought they sent it to me. I assume he meant in advance via email. Again, I said "No, unless it was in an email I never got". He sat in front of the computer with a puzzled look on his face and looked up their offer. He told me a number. It was $1500 MORE than the value I had noted to be the value I would switch to CarMax for the trade-in. So I was very happy with their offer. So happy, that I didn't even make a counter offer. I could likely have gotten a little more, but it wasn't worth it to me. I accepted their offer. He then printed out a one-page deal sheet fully spelling out the exact transaction numbers, including the exact $ figure that I would need to pay them. There were no hidden fees, charges, etc. It was very clear what was going on. Mind you, he made an assumption that I was paying cash. It was all expressed at out-the-door pricing. There was no attempt to hide numbers by terming it in monthly payments. I was a little surprised.

15. He left and Jenn came back and we both laughed about this a little. I figured that it was left to her to try and sell me on financing it so they could make their kickback from Ford Credit or a bank.

16. One by one, we worked our way thru her stack of documents to be signed. Almost done, she said, "as you know, we have multiple additional products that we can offer you such as extended warranties and add-on services for the car. Are you interested in any of those?" I said "No". She said, "no problem, I don't try to force those, so we'll move on". I was a bit surprised by that.

17. She saved the payment document for last. I figured, for sure she's going to try and talk me into financing. But no, she never once mentioned financing as an option. Haha. I suppose that if I was interested in doing that, I could have brought it up. I actually kept an open mind about it if they were going to give me a great interest rate since I could keep the cash in the market and make a little interest off it. But since she didn't bring it up, I didn't bring it up. I was prepared to pay cash, so I gave her a cashier's check and a personal check to cover the amount.

18. The entire finance transaction took about 20 minutes of time with Jenn. The least I have ever endured. After it was all done, I thanked Jenn for making this the least painful new car purchase that I had ever been thru. Including the test drive, I think I was in the dealership for only about 90 minutes.
 
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Well done! What model did you get?
 
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