Current tourist situation on rapanui (late October 2022)

2017ish

Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Joined
Apr 21, 2012
Messages
2,516
Location
Nashville
I previously posted about the steps now necessary to get onto rapanui, https://www.early-retirement.org/forums/showthread.php?t=115695&referrerid=25095

Once there, the recent fire near and in the quarry (Rano Raraku), had essentially no short term impact on visitors. We didn't even notice it from the hiking trail up to the site. Once on site though, it is apparent; you'll be right on its edge at times when you follow the trail around the site. It looks to have singed a few of the maoi, but none of the primary attractions. (Our guide said the site was closed only on the day of the fire, and shrugged, saying the farmers/ranchers always light fires. No one arrested or fined and no urgency in doing so....)

As for guides, the new (and still handwritten!) Rules are posted where we bought our tickets/passes).

We recommend you to always bring a local tour guide with you when visit the park sites, it is obligatory in most the sites. Only Tahai and Anakena aloud to go without a local guide.​

Perhaps because the policy is new, however, it was not enforced as strictly as written. We were able to visit most of the sites on our list without a guide, and we're not stopped from hiking the short "ara o te moai" trail to the quarry. We reserved a guide for the last day and we're then able to access the few remaining sites. Cost was $55 per person from 9am to about 4pm--and that included use of his car.

The sites that require a guide were those that are likely the most crowded once people start to come back in prepandemic numbers. (We had many sites to ourselves, and none were at all crowded--but the high season begins in November, and the number of weekly flights will double in December). Surprisingly to us, some of the most at risk sites, such as easily accessible petroglyphs, were not among those requiring a guide.

Bottom line is that you should plan on getting a guide to see sites. I think we were lucky to get in before everything was fully implemented.

All in all, a good side trip for us. Friendly, safe feeling, very walkable town, good ceviche, and grilled fish. But not a culinary destination, and restaurants reopening slowly. Check out the enclave of 3 food trucks and an affordable bar on mainstreet--we had cocktails there every night. Very local and mostly younger crowd, especially as the night goes on!
 
I previously posted about the steps now necessary to get onto rapanui, https://www.early-retirement.org/forums/showthread.php?t=115695&referrerid=25095

Once there, the recent fire near and in the quarry (Rano Raraku), had essentially no short term impact on visitors. We didn't even notice it from the hiking trail up to the site. Once on site though, it is apparent; you'll be right on its edge at times when you follow the trail around the site. It looks to have singed a few of the maoi, but none of the primary attractions. (Our guide said the site was closed only on the day of the fire, and shrugged, saying the farmers/ranchers always light fires. No one arrested or fined and no urgency in doing so....)

As for guides, the new (and still handwritten!) Rules are posted where we bought our tickets/passes).

We recommend you to always bring a local tour guide with you when visit the park sites, it is obligatory in most the sites. Only Tahai and Anakena aloud to go without a local guide.​

Perhaps because the policy is new, however, it was not enforced as strictly as written. We were able to visit most of the sites on our list without a guide, and we're not stopped from hiking the short "ara o te moai" trail to the quarry. We reserved a guide for the last day and we're then able to access the few remaining sites. Cost was $55 per person from 9am to about 4pm--and that included use of his car.

The sites that require a guide were those that are likely the most crowded once people start to come back in prepandemic numbers. (We had many sites to ourselves, and none were at all crowded--but the high season begins in November, and the number of weekly flights will double in December). Surprisingly to us, some of the most at risk sites, such as easily accessible petroglyphs, were not among those requiring a guide.

Bottom line is that you should plan on getting a guide to see sites. I think we were lucky to get in before everything was fully implemented.

All in all, a good side trip for us. Friendly, safe feeling, very walkable town, good ceviche, and grilled fish. But not a culinary destination, and restaurants reopening slowly. Check out the enclave of 3 food trucks and an affordable bar on mainstreet--we had cocktails there every night. Very local and mostly younger crowd, especially as the night goes on!

I visited in 2018 and it was never crowded even pre-pandemic.

As I recall (things may have changed now), there was only one LATAM flight from Santiago to EI per day, and to visit the island, each passenger had to show proof of hotel reservation and was limited to a 30-day stay. This policy was put in place to prevent backpackers from simply flying in and freedom camping on the island indefinitely. So with one planeload of people per day, none of the sights I visited were crowded at all.

The harborfront has a couple of excellent restaurants. There was also a cheap sushi place on the main drag. Other than that, dining options were limited.

I hired a guide to show me around for one day, but still had to buy a pass (either at the little airport upon landing or one of the second floor of a little building on the main drag), which limited me one visit only to some of the sights.

I'm not sure how things work now, but I was able to visit Ahu Tongariki to see sunrise on my own without a guide (I hired a taxi to drive me there and wait for me). I also rented a mountain bike to ride around the island for a day and was able to access some of the sights on my own without a guide.

Sounds like you had a great time. For me, it's one of the few rare, magical places left that still haven't been spoilt by mass tourism, thanks to its geographical isolation and the Chilean government's very wise decision to limit the number of visitors. That feeling of "wow, I can't believe I'm really here" when the plane landed was really cool.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom