DIY maintenance/repair savings, how much have you saved? and what was the project?

Relying on a fail-safe isn't a good idea.

You probably can't reduce the output of the burner, so you need to get more flow. You said the problem exists with a clean/new filter? Turn on just the fan and go around the house make sure all the vents are open and see if there are any vents that are not producing a solid stream. For the vents not blowing well, look on the ductwork leading to that vent and make sure it's not closed. This process is called "balancing" but it could be a prior owner wanted to save on heating and closed some dampers, screwing up the balance.

Another possibility is that the blower setting is set on low. You want to find that setting and crank it up. On some older systems it's a jumper, and newer systems it's a setting. That latter type, you'll need the manual because, like all these computer controls, it's probably "hold this, wait for it to blink, tap that until you see the full moon, then you can "easily" select low, medium and high...one blink low, two blinks medium, three blinks high" that kind of thing.
 
This process is called "balancing" but it could be a prior owner wanted to save on heating and closed some dampers, screwing up the balance.
Almost all the vents in our home have in-line duct dampers. It took me a few seasons, but I figured how much to close off airflow to each specific vent (except the one vent without one) in both seasons for optimum heating and cooling.

I then marked the ducts near the dampers with W for winter and S for summer. In another month or so, I'm looking forward to switching them from W to S. The problem where we live, is that once May comes around, it'll be 30ºF one Monday morning so we'll have the heat on, and by Friday, it'll be 85ºF so we'll have to switch the thermostat from H to C for the season.

So as far as the furnace is concerned, we get about 3 days of Spring. If we're lucky, we'll get almost 3 weeks of Autumn! :biggrin:
 
High temp limit switch is tripping, causing the furnace to shut down until the temp in the furnace drops back down. It cycles repeatedly until thermostat temp is reached.
Ok, now I understand the issue. There's two ways to solve that. The first is to use a much less restrictive air filter to increase air flow. What I would try for an experiment only, is to run it a cycle or two with no air filter at all to see if that prevents the short cycling. If a less restrictive filter doesn't do the trick, you'll either need to see if the blower motor can be be wired or reconfigured to run at a higher RPM when calling for heat or replace the blower motor with one that can move more air. I wouldn't be comfortable leaving it as is, constantly depending on the limit switch to prevent overheating. Also, make sure none of the return or supply ducts are completely closed off for some reason.
 
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I paid to have dealer do mine on my Ram 1500 even though it looks like a really easy job. I didn't want to get diesel all over me or the driveway.
I would spend more in fuel driving to the dealer than I paid for the filter. definitely do it in the gravel part of the drive.
 
Also, make sure none of the return or supply ducts are completely closed off for some reason.
That was my first thought, because any new filter shouldn't restrict to the level of the fire box overheating.

In my response, I assumed the blower did start within a few seconds of the flame coming on. Rather than move cold air, there is usually a sensor that waits for it to warm up a bit before turning on the blower. It doesn't sound likely, but theoretically if the setpoint of sensor is too high, close enough to the fail-safe cut off set point, it could cycle.
 
I don't remember how I knew it had to be the board...it was a long time ago.
I remember now. It was the blower power relay that I "fixed" before. It kept burning up the solder connection to the circuit board. Finally it was beyond repair, so I bought a drop-in replacement board.
 
There are a lot talented people in this thread. I am amazed of what you post.

Today, I did a transmission fluid drain and refill on my 2006 Hyundai Azera. It was easier than an oil change. My car's maintenance log shows it was last done about 150k miles ago by a shop. It was long overdue. I saved about $150 (5 quarts of fluid, 24mm hex socket, long neck funnel = $70). My local Firestone charges $220 for the service.
 
There are a lot talented people in this thread. I am amazed of what you post.

Today, I did a transmission fluid drain and refill on my 2006 Hyundai Azera. It was easier than an oil change. My car's maintenance log shows it was last done about 150k miles ago by a shop. It was long overdue. I saved about $150 (5 quarts of fluid, 24mm hex socket, long neck funnel = $70). My local Firestone charges $220 for the service.
I'm happy for you being able to do this maintenance project. I'm at that point in my life I'll gladly pay the $220 and sit in the waiting room reading a magazine instead. :cool:

Seriously, more power to you!
 
In the last two weeks I replaced the baking element in a vintage built in oven and I painted my kitchen including the ceiling. So I saved the cost of a repair man, a few hundred bucks and the cost of a professional painter would have been $1500 to $2000. I also realize that in another ten years when it is time to paint it again, if I am alive, I will be near 80 and probably won't have the steadiness of hand, balance and muscles to do it again. Like lawn care and snow removal, it will become a task I pay for in the future. Other small DIY jobs lately have been changing air and cabin filters in my truck. I also disassembled an old Remington Model 11 Skeet gun and replaced a broken firing pin. An oil change and lube and of two snow blowers and blade sharpening and oil and air filter change on a lawn mower. I think all of us do things that save us money, some more than others.
 
If there is a you tube video on how to repair something and I think it is within my physical abilities as well as my understanding of the process, I'll take on most small repair tasks. One thing that I always make sure of, I have the proper tools for the job and plenty of time to complete the task. This week I replaced some door hardware, handles and deadbolts, probably saved a couple hundred bucks.
 
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I'm happy for you being able to do this maintenance project. I'm at that point in my life I'll gladly pay the $220 and sit in the waiting room reading a magazine instead. :cool:

Seriously, more power to you!

I still enjoy doing DIYs. It gives me a sense of accomplishment. However, I am doing mostly easier things and staying away from taking on harder projects. I am getting old.
 
Three days ago our central AC stopped cooling in the middle of the night. Checked the outside unit the next day. Sure enough, the compressor was running but the fan was not. Changed the run/start capacitor (No I'm not a HVAC tech. And yes, I'm weird enough to keep a spare) and it's back running. From experience and service techs I learned that if your AC suddenly stops cooling, over 70% of the time it's the capacitor that fails. They only cost around $20 if you buy them online. No telling what a service tech would have charged.
 
Three days ago our central AC stopped cooling in the middle of the night. Checked the outside unit the next day. Sure enough, the compressor was running but the fan was not. Changed the run/start capacitor (No I'm not a HVAC tech. And yes, I'm weird enough to keep a spare) and it's back running. From experience and service techs I learned that if your AC suddenly stops cooling, over 70% of the time it's the capacitor that fails. They only cost around $20 if you buy them online. No telling what a service tech would have charged.
Our capacitor on our outdoor fan went out a few years back. Of course, it was on a 95ºF day. I bought two of them so I also have a spare if/when I need one. (the original one most likely lasted from 1986 until 2023)
 
Rather than flying first class to Europe or beyond, we stick to economy; one upgraded ticket covers years of home maintenance. I’m also good at finding reliable, reasonably priced independent handymen.
 
Three days ago our central AC stopped cooling in the middle of the night. Checked the outside unit the next day. Sure enough, the compressor was running but the fan was not. Changed the run/start capacitor (No I'm not a HVAC tech. And yes, I'm weird enough to keep a spare) and it's back running. From experience and service techs I learned that if your AC suddenly stops cooling, over 70% of the time it's the capacitor that fails. They only cost around $20 if you buy them online. No telling what a service tech would have charged.
They charge $250 and $300 if it's a very hot day.
 
They charge $250 and $300 if it's a very hot day.
Our mainland landlord (our son) has a service contract on the HVAC system for our summer apartment. Service calls are a standard fee - no matter the time of year or the procedure. In theory, contract customers get first dibs on service calls.

Three days ago our central AC stopped cooling in the middle of the night. Checked the outside unit the next day. Sure enough, the compressor was running but the fan was not. Changed the run/start capacitor (No I'm not a HVAC tech. And yes, I'm weird enough to keep a spare) and it's back running. From experience and service techs I learned that if your AC suddenly stops cooling, over 70% of the time it's the capacitor that fails. They only cost around $20 if you buy them online. No telling what a service tech would have charged.
I'm impressed that you know how to do this stuff and that's likely much better than a service contract. For people like us who know nothing about HVAC, a service contract seems the best alternative.

Thanks for sharing.
 
I had a couple of minor AC-related victories lately. Our AC wouldn't turn on the first time we tried it this season (we had a couple of days in the 90s already!), so I went and got replacement fuses, and tried replacing both the outside AC fuses with new ones, and tried testing the continuity with my junky little multimeter. No dice there, but I was able to rule out a simple fix, at least. So I called our HVAC company, and the guy came out and said it was one of the terminals in our thermostat, lucky us! A **much** cheaper fix. He was very nice about it, he looked up for me that they'd charge $280 to come out and install a new thermostat -- more than the cost of the smart thermostat itself! So I ran out to Lowes, got an Ecobee, and installed it myself, something I've done a few times before.

I also took down all of the old ADT sensors (and cleaned off years-old adhesive!), and installed SimpliSafe sensors everywhere, 24 of them, a few months ago.
 
I told my wife I saved us $14,992 because I fixed our old top-loader washing machine for $8 by replacing the lid interlock switch. See, I figured that if you'd "called the man", he who would say "You need all new equipment...that'll be $15K" :D The same can be said for HVAC...your capacitor blows and they want to replace the whole thing because if it's over 10 years old "well, of course you need to replace it".
Well, not if you just call the man in Mt. Pilot.
 
I paid to have my wife's car serviced yesterday, and for the first time in my life I paid a minute-lube store to change the oil in my vehicle. I have changed my own oil and done brakes, clutches, engines you name it for decades and ~600,000 miles by thumbnail estimate.
Oil and filters were ~$62 at the parts store.
The bill was $182
I'm not going to attempt an estimate on how much I saved over the years but I do know it is significant and represents some of our home value.
I may splurge 1 more time and have it done, then we will be established in the new place and I can go back to my old habits.
 
Oil and filters were ~$62 at the parts store.
The bill was $182
I struggle with this as well. Our 2024 Chevy Trax LS came with a lifetime powertrain warranty, with the small print stating I was not allowed to change the oil on it myself. So I bring it in twice a year for an oil change. One of those times I have them rotate the tires as well. Earlier this month the bill was around $125 for the oil change & tire rotation. In the fall, it's around $100 just for the oil change.

I can buy the synthetic oil and filter at Wal-Mart for $23.60 or around $25 after sales tax. So that free lifetime powertrain warranty is actually costing me $200 a year. But it's a little turbo 3-cylinder with a wet timing belt system, so the warranty might or might not be worthwhile down the road. (If that company is still around)

Oh, well, I still change the oil on the other 5 vehicles + the lawnmower and snowblower. :biggrin:
 
Fixed a little used shower that decided not to provide any water. The hardest part was discovering who made the shower valve since the manufacturer was not embossed on any parts. While looking under the bathroom sink to see if they put their name on the faucet base, I discovered the plumber stuck the installation papers on the sink install ledge. With that in hand, I disassembled the valve and let the shower cartridge soak in vinegar. After reassembly, success. Need to remember, during the winter months to run this shower at least once a month.
 
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