Help to remove scratches from a stainless steel sink?

[aja8888]

My new place has a “farmhouse” type stainless steel sink that is not the coated type of stainless. Right after moving in, I noticed a small area (3” diameter) of scratches that were probably put in by the “cleaning team” just before I moved in. I missed that during the final walk through.

My question is how do I get those scratches out? I tried the Barkeeper's Friend cleanser and that didn’t do anything. Online, I see various scratch removal “kits” that seem to have mixed reviews and really don’t want to experiment with them without asking the crowd here if anyone has had luck removing scratches from a sink or other appliance.

My feeling is someone started to clean the sink with a brillo pad and then realized that was not the right way to do it. The scratches do not appear to be very deep, but they are there.

Thoughts on a remedy to remove the scratches?

Thanks!

 

[pacergal]

If bar keepers friend didn't work, my guess is that they are pretty deep.
Maybe a stainless steel scratch removal kit would be your best bet.

It is a new house, so perhaps a call to the builder first to see if there is a warranty?

 

[aja8888]

If bar keepers friend didn't work, my guess is that they are pretty deep.
Maybe a stainless steel scratch removal kit would be your best bet.

It is a new house, so perhaps a call to the builder first to see if there is a warranty?

No warranty on scratches. , Especially after closing on the house.

 

[KCGeezer]

I’d try rubbing compound, if I could find it. It should be in the garage but…..

 

[easysurfer]

I've never tried, but have seen folks on youtube using scratch remover kits.

I scratched the bottom of a new looking stainless steel inner pot for a slow cooker.

Bugs me, feels like the first scratch on a new car. Hope I'll get over in time. But pot was pretty much brand new!

 

[GrayHare]

my approach would be to brillo the remainder to make the surface of uniform appearance

 

[More Cowbell]

my approach would be to brillo the remainder to make the surface of uniform appearance

And call it "Patina"!

OP, I sympathize. Pre-renovation, an overzealous cleaner took all the "dirt" off an oil-rubbed bronze door knob.

 

[Jerry1]

my approach would be to brillo the remainder to make the surface of uniform appearance

I think this is essentially what you have to do. Stainless has sort of a grain to it. You’d need to blend the scratches into the grain. Something that would take a bit of a craftsman to accomplish.

 

[COcheesehead]

Not exactly the same thing, but I have seen folks take scratches out of Ti frame bikes with those green scrubber pads. It leaves a buffed finished behind.

 

[GrayHare]

those green pads might be ones sold under the name Scotchbrite, they are mildly abrasive, probably enough to leave buff marks on stainless

 

[Aerides]

is it in the wall or the bottom basin area?

If the bottom, I'd look for a rack that protects your sink and disguises the blemish. I have a porcelain farmer sink and one of the bowls was dinged in it's earliest days.

You can find them in all shapes and sizes.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-...14YT9D5MX-wuxs_9S4YFhKnvuLyoP7bvbFF0yrGHdu6GE

 

[COcheesehead]

those green pads might be ones sold under the name Scotchbrite, they are mildly abrasive, probably enough to leave buff marks on stainless

Yes, those are the ones.

 

[OldShooter]

Move slowly and carefully from the least abrasive to one that gives you a finish hat you are satisfied with. Some candidates:

• Jeweler's Rouge (https://www.amazon.com/Drixet-Jewelers-Rouge-Polishing-Compound/dp/B074HQ736H?th=1)
• Autobody polishing compound
• Autobody rubbing compound
• Successively coarser grits in Scotchbrite pads (try https://www.wwhardware.com for some)
• Successively coarser grits of 3M brand automotive "wet or dry" paper used wet. Maybe start at 2000 grit.

 

[latexman]

I’d start with 320 or 400 grit. Dry sand it, then wet sand it, then move to a finer grit, rinse, and repeat until it passes your quality test.

 

[aja8888]

is it in the wall or the bottom basin area?

If the bottom, I'd look for a rack that protects your sink and disguises the blemish. I have a porcelain farmer sink and one of the bowls was dinged in it's earliest days.

You can find them in all shapes and sizes.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-...14YT9D5MX-wuxs_9S4YFhKnvuLyoP7bvbFF0yrGHdu6GE

Yes, it's on the flat bottom. I did buy a protective rack already. I'm just sick of looking at the scratched area when I clean it.

 

[aja8888]

Move slowly and carefully from the least abrasive to one that gives you a finish hat you are satisfied with. Some candidates:

• Jeweler's Rouge (https://www.amazon.com/Drixet-Jewelers-Rouge-Polishing-Compound/dp/B074HQ736H?th=1)
• Autobody polishing compound
• Autobody rubbing compound
• Successively coarser grits in Scotchbrite pads (try https://www.wwhardware.com for some)
• Successively coarser grits of 3M brand automotive "wet or dry" paper used wet. Maybe start at 2000 grit.

I’d start with 320 or 400 grit. Dry sand it, then wet sand it, then move to a finer grit, rinse, and repeat until it passes your quality test.

Thanks folks, I think I'll start with 2000 grit wet or dry which I have in the garage from my auto painting days. I'll use it wet and see what happens. I also have some 3M professional rubbing compound somewhere in the garage too.

If 2000 grit is too fine, I have 1000 and 800 grit and maybe a coarser grade also.

 

[Tetto]

You could try one of the car headlight lens polishing kits. Those are pretty good at removing surface scratches.

 

[aja8888]

You could try one of the car headlight lens polishing kits. Those are pretty good at removing surface scratches.

good idea, I'll look at that too.

 

[OldShooter]

Thanks folks, I think I'll start with 2000 grit wet or dry which I have in the garage from my auto painting days. I'll use it wet and see what happens. I also have some 3M professional rubbing compound somewhere in the garage too.

If 2000 grit is too fine, I have 1000 and 800 grit and maybe a coarser grade also.

"Act in haste, repent at leisure." 400 grit is not the place to start IMO. Be well.

 

[latexman]

My feeling is someone started to clean the sink with a brillo pad and then realized that was not the right way to do it.

Fyi, a Brillo pad is 220 grit. Look it up.

Remember the golden rule of sanding/polishing, never skip more than one grit. As in 220, then 320, then 400; or 220, then 400.

 

[Sunset]

Starting with too coarse a grit of sandpaper may put many more deeper scratches than OP already has in the sink.

I'd start high in grit numbers, and see the effect and then adjust from there.

 

[latexman]

I'd start high in grit numbers, and see the effect and then adjust from there.

Good plan, if OP is not sure of the cause; a waste of time, if he is.

 

[aja8888]

Done

Here's what I did (all sanding with water and a really clean sink):

Tested with a 3000 grit final cut pad for cleaning up automotive finishes after clear coat sanding. That didn't do much to the scratches.

Next was 2000 grit typically used for sanding an automotive clear coat before rubbing. Not much change, but clearly the non scratched areas were impacted as the stainless was getting dull.

I used 1200 grit next with a soft sanding block and it did the job (90%) on the brillo scratches. I then hit a few more areas where smaller scratches were found.

Then I went back with the 2000 and then the 3000 final cut pad.

Looks really good and I have some stainless polish being delivered today and I will shine it up!

Thanks for the suggestions which changed my mind on buying a scratch removal kit online.

If I ever decide to throw away some money, I will have the sink changed out with a porcelain one.