How best to fund new auto purchase?

We have leased our daily drivers Since 1995 with no money down. so no financing issues. If you like new cars regularly, it is definitely the way to go. We have better things to worry about than car maintenance issues and diminished value due to the unexpected in our retirement.
 
Disagree. Your main discomfort is in withdrawing a hefty amount from your holdings, right? In the financing scenario, you'd be "paying" for peace of mind by minimizing the draw all at once and slowly withdrawing instead.

If you're looking at a pure "cost" of it all, then you have no choice but to make a bigger withdrawal.

Personally, I like to view money as a tool whose main job is to provide me with comfort and convenience and where it's "efficiency" is secondary. Like a seat in first class, sometimes you just gotta pay more for the benefit.

Marko's idea isn't without any merit. I'm somewhat of the same boat, Lorenzo. I had planned a new vehicle purchase for right before retirement, but then ended up RE. I have a chunk of "cash" in MMF, which is fine right now at over 4% interest (if I had invested it would be in bonds anyway). I like having that cash sitting there, and the payment estimator on my Ford dealers site is "suggesting" they can currently give a rate of 3.9% for 36 months (won't know the actual offered rate until I'm sitting with the finance guy, I guess), so it's about a break-even with my MMF. I'm thinking I'll put about half down on my new truck (depending on what they give for my trade-in) and finance $20-25k for 3 years, and get to keep some of my cash in my account...maybe I'll decide to pay the loan off in 6 months, if I get to break even. I don't care too much about my credit score (and it's still pretty high), but I also feel like exercising my credit rating a little might not be bad, just in case, since the only credit I've used for a while has been credit cards. (eta: Also, I haven't been spending enough money in retirement, so I gave myself a raise this year, with a car payment included, so working on that mental hurdle, AND that "income" that's over and above int & div I usually take from equities, so technically I'm holding that longer and hopefully I'll get 8+%).

As far as your tIRA and whether you should do Roth conversions, you probably ought to start at least putting together a spending plan assuming no conversions to get an idea of where your tIRA could be at RMD time. At least to determine if that account could be at $500k or $1 million or $3 million when you get there. It might be a long-term benefit to start withdrawing some of that IRA money every year.
 
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No, I did not! Prices are shocking to me. The old 4Runner was purchased 1 year-old with about 15k miles on it for 30-something thousand. A new one, comparably equipped (though with all the new electronic crap) would be something like 60k. And an SUV is hardly what I'd call a luxury vehicle--at least not most of them. Ugh.

I would not purchase a new 4Runner...engine is a 4-cylinder turbo, even for the hybrid option.

Previous generation (2010-2024) 4Runners come with an optional V6, so why not buy one of those?

The shop you're currently using should be able to recommend reliable years for used ones.

Or register on this forum to research.
 
I appreciate the suggestions to consider financing it or a portion of it through a dealer, but lurking in the background of my main question is the issue of budgeting monthly expenses. I have been tracking expenses closely for all of one year now, and I still don't have a good handle on what we spend, especially with the home renovation stuff ongoing, but the picture is starting to come into focus. There's not enough excess in our present incomes from w*rk to make a car payment, so I need to find a solution in my retirement savings, if not for this expenditure then for the next. Whether the payment is in the form of a single lump or stretched out over months, I still need to figure out the best source(s) for my near-term situation, which is that I have (and had) some lumpy expenses to deal with while I have been working less and less (with minor exception these past couple of months) and plan to go to zero within a year, or two at the most. When I'm finally in a zero-paycheck steady state, I'll probably fund my monthly spending by selling those individual stocks in the brokerage account while we're in the zero percent capital gains bracket, and I'll develop a longer-term plan, which will probably involve some kind of fixed income ladder in the tIRA. But for the moment, I just need to replace my elderly vehicle.

@Dalton, analyzing whether Roth conversions would benefit me is on my to-do list, and I might check out a tool like Pralana. I don't know what I was hoping here by mentioning the Roth, but there seem to be different schools of thought, one being that a Roth is useful as a source for lumpy expenses. But if someone were to say, "Whatever you do, don't touch that Roth now--you'll need it later," I'd give that consideration, too. If I'm not mistaken, any additional ordinary income right now, such as if I were to draw from my tIRA, would be taxed at the 22% marginal rate.
 
I would not purchase a new 4Runner...engine is a 4-cylinder turbo, even for the hybrid.

Previous generation (2009-2024) 4Runners come with an optional V6, so why not buy one of those?

The shop you're currently using should be able to recommend reliable years for used ones.
You may be confusing things I said. I'm considering a Tacoma to replace my old 4Runner. But similar issues. The 2025 Tacoma with hybrid is stupid expensive, and it doesn't get good gas mileage. As you may know, the hybrid feature appears to be purely about gettting extra torque for towing or rock crawling. I hadn't heard anything negative about the turbo, but in any event, I can't afford a 2025, so a 2024 it would be for me. Tacoma, that is.
 
The local repair shop that DW and I have long used have a vehicle age limit of 20 years, thought they have been making an exception for us as long-time clients. Parts can be found but apparently with increasing difficulty. What used to take a day and a half in the shop now takes a week as they hunt down parts. They were flummoxed by an emissions system problem and suggested I try the Toyota dealer, and they were able to fix it but at a price you'd expect from a dealer service center. We who love our quarter-century old cars will either need to face the facts or do our own repair work (which is not in the cards for most of us here). Whether I have it repaired now (leaking oil, doesn't pass emissions test, perhaps more) and kick the can down the road for another year really doesn't impact my questions.
I know that all cars will eventually become too expensive or too difficult to repair. I've made it my practice to wait until that time to replace them. It's not as convenient, but it saves a ton of money in my experience.

Many of us here on the Forum would rather have relatively new cars so that we rarely have repair issues. Most of us here can afford that approach. But I think of myself as "old school" in that I try to buy cars that have the best repair profiles (think Toyota) and simply keep them running, even if they are out of commission for a a couple of days occasionally.

If it's worth it to you to replace a vehicle so that you won't have to jump through hoops to have it repaired, then, by all means go for it. It's just money and we aren't taking it with us.
 
Did you ever think there would come a day when you said I'm looking to purchase a new car, nothing fancy, let's say 50k! :)
Heh, heh, yeah I picked up on that as well. I bought a brand new Corvette for $5K. Of course, that was in 1970, so a few things have changed since then. Inflation is insidious and you often don't notice it - until you do.
 
If it's worth it to you to replace a vehicle so that you won't have to jump through hoops to have it repaired, then, by all means go for it. It's just money and we aren't taking it with us.
It's not just jumping through hoops to get parts or find someone willing to work on old vehicles, it's the increasing frequency of repairs and cost, not to mention the risk of getting stranded somewhere, potentially off the beaten path. I use the 4Runner for camping trips and such, not just trips to Home Depot.

edit: Only on a forum full of die-hard penny-pinchers like ourselves could replacing a 23 year-old vehicle somehow seem profligate. :LOL:
 
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@Lorenzo: Sounds like you have quite a few options truck wise. If your biggest concern is rebuilding that emergency fund then you are just going to have to build that into the retirement cash flow plan, paying your emergency account X dollars per month. As others have pointed out you have the cash and the Roth to fund this. I get it, my emergency fund just got tapped more than I wanted due to home repairs. I will rebuild it from cash flow , but it may take 1-2 years. That's OK with me. DW and I talked it over pre retirement - if we need to rebuild that fund quicker than that we will just not travel that year. We had a plan going into the game.
 
I would not purchase a new 4Runner...engine is a 4-cylinder turbo, even for the hybrid option.

Previous generation (2010-2024) 4Runners come with an optional V6, so why not buy one of those?

The shop you're currently using should be able to recommend reliable years for used ones.

Or register on this forum to research.
Best source for reliability of used cars is Consumer Reports. You can see a copy at your local library. I think the main "car" issue is back 2 or 3 months. I'm always amazed when I open the page that has mostly Toyotas and the pages are mostly all "green" boxes (the best reliability). Other pages (Chrysler, for instance) are more red (bad) than green.

I've found the CR reliability statistics to be quite reliable. Good luck.
 
Best source for reliability of used cars is Consumer Reports. You can see a copy at your local library. I think the main "car" issue is back 2 or 3 months. I'm always amazed when I open the page that has mostly Toyotas and the pages are mostly all "green" boxes (the best reliability). Other pages (Chrysler, for instance) are more red (bad) than green.

I've found the CR reliability statistics to be quite reliable. Good luck.
I'm a subscriber to CR, and I use it often. I know, I know, a needless expense when I could just as well view it at the "local library." I am such a spendthrift. :LOL:
 
You may be confusing things I said. I'm considering a Tacoma to replace my old 4Runner. But similar issues. The 2025 Tacoma with hybrid is stupid expensive, and it doesn't get good gas mileage. As you may know, the hybrid feature appears to be purely about gettting extra torque for towing or rock crawling. I hadn't heard anything negative about the turbo, but in any event, I can't afford a 2025, so a 2024 it would be for me. Tacoma, that is.

Same thing, skip the new Tacoma with the turbo 4-cylinder.

Buy used instead with a 4 or 6 cylinder engine.

One kid is driving a previous-generation Tacoma, TRD Sport trim, likes it just fine.
 
In 1989, I margined my taxable account for $6k to buy a 1984 Chevy Blazer. I didn't have to make any payments but I continued to add cash to the account as I wanted to, paying the monthly interest and some of the principal. As the stocks met my goal, I sold off the position, and it went to principal. It was paid off in 3 years, IIRC, The stocks I held never went down for me to get a margin call, but after 6 months, my ratio equity/margin was golden. It worked for this guy with 6 years of marriage, 2 kids and a STHM.
 
I faced a similar situation recently. Didn't like any of the 4 cylinder suv's so we opted for a Hyundai palisade. Mid 50's, fully dressed out and I financed it because the interest rate was a push when compared to my HYSA. No reason to deplete cash.
 
OP - You don't say how much is in IRA , or any account except the cash one, so here is a general thought: IF your the value of your IRA + 401K is high, then take the $$ from the IRA.

Most folks have too large IRA + 401K due to not being able to contribute to Roths long ago, and being sold the idea that it was the thing to do for tax savings immediately.

Reason being, when you start RMD's + SS you will be paying in the 22% tax bracket (probably), and when one of you is a survivor, you definitely will be in the 22% bracket.

Also , turn off re-investment for all your taxable holdings, so you can see the cash generated, and decide what to do with it anyways.

I would leave the tiny Roth alone, as this is not an unexpected large bill, and it's the only source of non-taxable cash you have.
 
Six months ago I bought my first new car in 32 years. Prior to that I had been buying certified used cars from the dealer that were 2–4 years old with anywhere from 25–35K miles on them.

I decided since this will be my last car I was going to have the experience of having a brand new car. It has really been a pleasure to drive and I love all the new safety features. I’m so glad that I did it instead of waiting until my 17-year-old car was starting to have problems.

The dealer offered me 2.9% financing for four years so I only financed half of it . I could’ve paid cash, but my money was making more money than what I was being charged in interest. It’s a small payment of 300 a month so no big deal in my budget.
 
In a nutshell, I feel I'm "down to my last 100k" of cash, and so I need to learn how to replenish the cash account.
I'm a little confused about why this HYSA isn't being (or hasn't been) replenished in some form or fashion all along. Do you not move money into it from your current salary/income on a regular basis? And what about investment income— like dividends, interest, and cap gains distributions—in your taxable accounts? Do you not direct those into your HYSA or other cash-like vehicles such as a MM mutual fund (SWVXX, VMFXX, etc.)? If not, I suppose I would ask "Why not?" IMHO, a sustainable, automated process that replenishes your spending account(s) is a key part of any successful FIRE journey.
 
OP - You don't say how much is in IRA , or any account except the cash one, so here is a general thought: IF your the value of your IRA + 401K is high, then take the $$ from the IRA.

Most folks have too large IRA + 401K due to not being able to contribute to Roths long ago, and being sold the idea that it was the thing to do for tax savings immediately.

Reason being, when you start RMD's + SS you will be paying in the 22% tax bracket (probably), and when one of you is a survivor, you definitely will be in the 22% bracket.

Also , turn off re-investment for all your taxable holdings, so you can see the cash generated, and decide what to do with it anyways.

I would leave the tiny Roth alone, as this is not an unexpected large bill, and it's the only source of non-taxable cash you have.
I really appreciate the concrete advice. Only recently did I turn the DRIP off in my taxable. That was 17k in dividends last year. I'm inclined to leave the Roth untouched at this time, because it's likely I will be contributing to it with conversions anyway. The tIRA and 401k have enough in them that FIRECalc shows that without a further paycheck I could continue living the baseline lifestyle that DW and I have been accustomed to. The thing is, our fairly recent change in lifestyle, moving from the urban condo to a suburban fixer-upper-ish 1960s house, has thrown the budget into disarray with all these so-called lumpy expenses. And this vehicle purchase has been looming for some time.
 
Please everybody - return to the original question of how to best top-off the cash portion of a portfolio. I'm soon to be in the same situation and would love to hear different strategies and the pros and cons for each.
 
Six months ago I bought my first new car in 32 years. Prior to that I had been buying certified used cars from the dealer that were 2–4 years old with anywhere from 25–35K miles on them.

I decided since this will be my last car I was going to have the experience of having a brand new car. It has really been a pleasure to drive and I love all the new safety features. I’m so glad that I did it instead of waiting until my 17-year-old car was starting to have problems.

The dealer offered me 2.9% financing for four years so I only financed half of it . I could’ve paid cash, but my money was making more money than what I was being charged in interest. It’s a small payment of 300 a month so no big deal in my budget.
That has been (or had been, until this thread got me reconsidering) my thinking, too. First new car in many years and may very well be my last car purchase ever. I was thinking that the experience of ordering one to my specifications would be a treat. But maybe I'm not set in my finances enough for a treat just yet.

I don't think deals like 2.9% financing can be found anymore.
 
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That has been (or had been, until this thread got be reconsidering) my thinking, too. First new car in many years and may very well be my last car purchase ever. I was thinking that the experience of ordering one to my specifications would be a treat. But maybe I'm not set in my finances enough for a treat just yet.

I don't think deals like 2.9% financing can be found anymore.
Depends.

Hyundai is offering 2.9% on almost all Palisade trim's.

Zero finance on Santa Fee hybrid, but that's a 4 cycl motor.

I didn't check other manufacturers.
 
I'm a little confused about why this HYSA isn't being (or hasn't been) replenished in some form or fashion all along. Do you not move money into it from your current salary/income on a regular basis? And what about investment income— like dividends, interest, and cap gains distributions—in your taxable accounts? Do you not direct those into your HYSA or other cash-like vehicles such as a MM mutual fund (SWVXX, VMFXX, etc.)? If not, I suppose I would ask "Why not?" IMHO, a sustainable, automated process that replenishes your spending account(s) is a key part of any successful FIRE journey.
The cash account hasn't been replenished "all along" from dividends, interest, etc., because it didn't need to be and because I reinvested, as is common for people still working. In other words, while I was fully employed, the paycheck was enough, and dividends and interest were reinvested. The few not on a DRIP I think I reinvested in IVE (S&P fund). When I started winding down my work, I increasingly drew from the cash account to make up any shortfall as monthly expenses came due. In that respect, you're absolutely right that I probably should have stopped reinvesting everything at least four or five years ago. But it was hard to tell myself to stop reinvesting. This state of semi-retirement, or more like "barista FIRE," is challenging. My mind isn't sure whether to think like a retiree in the decumulation phase or like a salaried employee still accumulating.
 
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I appreciate the suggestions to consider financing it or a portion of it through a dealer, but lurking in the background of my main question is the issue of budgeting monthly expenses. I have been tracking expenses closely for all of one year now, and I still don't have a good handle on what we spend, especially with the home renovation stuff ongoing, but the picture is starting to come into focus.

Reading this, I'm even more convinced you should shop for a much cheaper used car. Its quite possible that you simply can't afford everything that is going. Rather than digging deep into your cash stash or signing up for a large car payment, I suggest that until you prove to yourself the financial house is in good order, you should assume its not.

Buy something for $15K that will run reliably. If you're finances stabilize and you want a better car in 24 months, just flip it.

My $0.02.
 
We have leased our daily drivers Since 1995 with no money down. so no financing issues. If you like new cars regularly, it is definitely the way to go. We have better things to worry about than car maintenance issues and diminished value due to the unexpected in our retirement.
+1. Been leasing luxury cars for over 40 years. Just the cost of living, like the electric bill. Plus you get more car for the money.
Tires getting worn? Opps! Lease is up!
 
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