Let’s talk National Parks

I noticed that many folks ranked Mesa Verde in their top 10. Tutan is correct Bears Ears is loaded with dwellings, etc. I attached a couple links for Cedar Mesa and Beef Basin area hikes, and as you can see these two areas of Bears Ears are loaded with ruins for those of you interested. Oddly, the visitors center at Kane Gulch is only open for two months each fall and spring and only from 8:00 to 12:00 each day, which is an indication of the amount of visitation.

 
Since retiring in late 2017, I have traveled to 19 National Parks for a total of 23. To preface my response, I am a senior woman who travels alone, does not have a high clearance vehicle, and am limited to about 4 mile hikes that are easy/moderate so am not out there hiking the Highline Trail although I wish I could. Besides scenic drives and short hikes, I visit park museums, historical attractions and hotels, and ranger programs including the evening presentations at campgrounds. I try to spend several days in each park, stay in park lodging if available, and visit in late spring/early summer or Sept/Oct. to avoid crowds.

My Top 10 (mostly in order)
1. Rocky Mountain National Park - Saw moose, bighorn sheep, and lots of elk including elk bugling season. Hiked up to mountain lakes and waterfalls. Many areas to explore.
2. Glacier Bay - took Alaska cruise and loved the glaciers and wildlife. My favorites were the sea otters. Hiked a little near Bartlett Cove ranger station.
3. Grand Canyon North Rim - While not as spectacular as the South Rim, I loved the isolation once you got away from the Lodge and the laid back atmosphere at the Lodge. And the scenery along Highway 89A (Marble Canyon and Vermillion Cliffs, etc.) to the park was spectacular.
4. Yellowstone - such a variety with lakes, waterfalls, forests, canyons, geysers and geothermal basins, and wildlife watching areas and historic lodges.
5. Glacier - enjoyed the different parts of the park. Many Glacier area was special. So much water and so different than where I live in the southwest. More moose!
6. Bryce - One of the first parks I visited after retirement and the rock formations were magical. Also my first time staying in a national park cabin.
7. Zion - Saw a pack of Desert Bighorn Sheep while driving from the east into the park. I stayed in the park but being confined to a short stretch of road felt stifling and it was crowded. Got out to uncrowded Kolob Canyons in NW corner of the park but east road closed for repair the day after I got there. Waded some through the Narrows trail.
8. Grand Canyon South Rim - Besides the spectacular scenery and being able to drive Desert View Drive as well as taking the shuttle, I love the unique building architecture and furnishings (especially the designs of Mary Jane Colter) and the interesting stories of the early businessmen.
9. Sequoia/Kings Canyon - This was suggested as an alternative to Yosemite and I enjoyed the variety of canyons and huge Sequoias and it was not all that crowded.
10. Grand Teton - Beautiful mountain and lake scenery and enjoyed walking along the lakes and visiting pioneer cabins. Saw moose!

Honorable mentions are Yosemite, Mesa Verde, Arches, Canyonlands, Chaco Canyon, Capital Reef, Carlsbad Caverns, Big Bend, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Acadia. I visited Acadia in the 1980's during fall foliage season and remember being impressed but not too many details except it was crowded. Yosemite was not on my top 10 list because I went at a bad time when the high areas were not yet open and several areas were closed for repairs. Would like to go back to Acadia and Yosemite in different seasons.

Least Favorite:
1. Petrified Forest
2. White Sands
3 .Joshua Tree
4. Saguaro
 
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Since retiring in late 2017, I have traveled to 19 National Parks for a total of 23. To preface my response, I am a senior woman who travels alone, does not have a high clearance vehicle, and am limited to about 4 mile hikes that are easy/moderate so am not out there hiking the Highline Trail although I wish I could.
You should go back to Glacier and do the Highline trail as an out and back from the visitor's center for as far as you want. It is not steep that way, and the views are great.
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We have been to 21 National Parks mostly during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. They got progressively more crowded and we started to lose interest. If we are able to go to any more it will have to be during off season or on the edge. We backpacked/tent camped visiting all of them except Carlsbad Caverns. Those that were the best for us were:

*Acadia ( beautiful area. visited many times)
*Arches
*Bryce Canyon
*Carlsbad Cavern
*Everglades
*Great Smokey Mountains (backpacked for our honeymoon)
*Mesa Verde
*Olympic
*Rocky Mountains
*Zion

Some that didn't impress us as much as others were:
Grand Canyon (we did hike down but there were just too many people)
Big Bend
Bad Lands
White Sands
Saguaro
 
Canyon de Chelly National Monument is one of my favorites. It’s off the beaten path, but well worth the trip.
 
The other option is to take the 2.5 hour (?) ferry ride [to Dry Tortugas]. I spoke to someone who took the ferry, and he said that about a third of the people got sea sick.
We took the ferry on a very windy day and I don't remember anybody getting seasick, but I wasn't hanging around the bathrooms. I do remember that it was a rough ride, and the boat would slam down on the waves occasionally. And the wind made for terrible snorkeling.

At the fort, we happened upon a group of people sitting up against an interior wall, eating, with some NPS employees sitting around a little farther away from the wall. There was some construction going on, and we thought maybe it was contract workers taking a break. But there was just a really weird vibe that we couldn't put our finger on.

Shortly after we were there, they shut down the park because of the influx of migrants coming from Cuba and landing on Dry Tortugas. So I'm sure what we saw was some of the first ones who tried it, before social media got wind of the opportunity and everybody started doing it. That's what made Dry Tortugas particularly memorable.

I like scenery but I don't looooove it; grandeur doesn't really register (turns out my sister is the same way, so maybe it's genetic). And I'm not into hiking. So most national parks are merely okay to me. But I'll always remember the Narrows in Zion, where we walked about 10 miles, most of it in the water. That was so cool. And more memorable than going up to Observation Point, which is all about the scenery.

In Glacier National Park, we went to a glacier. My boyfriend was careful to say we were walking to the glacier, not hiking, and didn't mention the distance. I took an Inside Passage cruise in Alaska a long time ago, so I've seen glaciers, and big ones, and ones that were calving, but I don't think I'd ever walked up to the edge of one, so I was game. It turned out to be 10 miles or so, and I do remember the icy edge of the glacier, and that the bottoms of my feet were sore for about the last mile or two.

The scenery was about what I'd expected. What I remember the most was walking through a group of mountain goats or sheep or whatever that were hanging around on both sides of the trail. Some of them were fighting and I'll never forget the sound of their horns hitting each other. It was loud...sounded like a gunshot.

Yellowstone? We rode our bikes on a dirt road to the back of Grand Prismatic Spring, and came upon a herd of bison straddling the road. I didn't know at the time that they're dangerous, but we rode smoothly and silently through them, and they ignored us. Same on the way back. I remember that as much as I remember Old Faithful.

White Sands. We walked around on the dunes during the day, and then went on a full moon bike ride, which I gather they don't offer any more. It used to be twice a year, and you could ride your bike on the vehicle-free road after dark. That was a hoot.

Everglades. We parked the motorhome out on the highway and rode our bikes in, to do the Shark Valley route. We got to ride past the line of cars waiting to go in, and stopped on the back side of the booth and I handed the guy my senior pass and driver's license, and he said something about how other people can't use that pass, and I said, "That's me." And I added, "Dude, I'm on Medicare." (Senior pass age is only 62.) He paused again and said, "Well keep doing what you're doing!" Ha! Oh, and we saw some alligators.

Saguaro National Park. We stopped the car on the side of a dirt road and were standing there looking around and both felt a whoooosh behind us and looked up and it was what looked like a Kenyan runner who hadn't made a sound but we'd felt him go by. That was over 20 years ago and that's still what both of us remember from Saguaro National Park.

Thanks for the tip on RMNP. I do miss the days of just showing up at a NP and being able to do what you wanted without worrying about reservations. Maybe it’ll all calm down in a few years.
I consider myself incredibly lucky to have started traveling fulltime 20 years ago, and going pretty much everywhere I wanted to go before the crowds got really bad, and reservations are needed at many of the parks. While it's become really bad since covid, I remember driving down from Arches in June 2018; we'd gone up real early because we were leaving town that day, and this is what the entrance looked like just before noon:


Arches entrance.jpg
 
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Visiting Arches NP we got there at sunrise, stayed for a few hours, then returned at 8pm. It was summer so we hid indoors during the middle of the day. Of course early and late had great light. And no lines! This was back in the later 2000s
 
Does anyone else like incorporating a brief visit to a National Park as part of a longer trip?

When we lived in Texas we took a road trip to Arkansas. We visited Bentonville (Crystal Bridges Museum), Little Rock (Central High School + National Historic Site; Clinton Library & Museum), and Hot Springs (National Park). While I wouldn't pick Hot Springs National Park as a destination vacation, it was quite nice as a stop. We arrived in the late afternoon, did a ranger guided tour at the Fordyce Bathouse and then enjoyed a beer flight at Superior Bathouse Brewery - only beer in the world made with thermal spring water! 🍻 The following morning we drove up near the Mountain Tower and took an easy hike & enjoyed the autumn colors before hitting the road to head back home.
 
Not sure I could come up with a top 10 ranking as each is so different with much to recommend. But here are few with comments:

Virgin Islands NP- this would have to be my favorite. Among the most beautiful beaches in the world. Trunk Bay, Maho Bay, Cinnamon, Jumbie, Hawksnest. Excellent snorkelling. Been many times.

Grand Canyon- I did a rim to river to run hike from the south rim, a very memorable experience. The views are just stunning, even just from the top. Also have been to north rim which has its own charms.

Volcanoes NP-having breakfast at the little restaurant on the rim is memorable. Seeing red hot lava flowing into the sea. Amazing spot

Grand Tetons-I feel l could spend several days just looking at the peaks but lakes are also nice. See lots of wildlife.

Yellowstone-there is a lot more to see than Old Faithful if you take some time and visit the whole park.

Great Falls Park (this is run by the National Park Service. Not sure why it is not designated a NP)-amazing views of the falls of the Potomac River. Lots of excellent hikes and rock scrambling. If you see some kayakers practicing their skills in the churning surf know they are elite. Also the ruins of the locks that date to revolutionary times are interesting. Very close to where I live. We go often.

Bryce Canyon-perhaps the most stunning and in unusual of Utah's Mighty Five.

Arches-just some really unique formations and fun hikes.

Zion-one of the most varied parks I have been to with so many enjoyable hikes and views.

Smoky Mountains-many great memories hiking there and also seeing my great grandmother's old homestead.

Saguaro- that's a lot of saguaro cactuses to see in one spot, an amazing and unique site.

Big Bend- Beautiful and less crowded than some. Have canoed the Rio Grande through Santa Elena Canyon-very scenic and fun.You do not get there by accident.

Shenandoah NP- very beautiful to just drive and check out the overlooks. But some very fun hikes too and waterfalls. Don't miss Luray Caverns nearby-most beautiful cavern in the east. Frequent visitor.

New River Gorge-went on a great raft trip down the New River before it became a NP. Very scenic.

Mesa Verde-love cliff dwellings. Very accessible.

Honorable mention: Acadia, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Sequoia (went to Muir Woods first, so perhaps seemed less unique)

Less memorable: Biscayne Bay, Badlands, Petrified Forest

Need to go: Glacier, Crater Lake, Dry Tortugas
 
Does anyone else like incorporating a brief visit to a National Park as part of a longer trip?

When we lived in Texas we took a road trip to Arkansas. We visited Bentonville (Crystal Bridges Museum), Little Rock (Central High School + National Historic Site; Clinton Library & Museum), and Hot Springs (National Park). While I wouldn't pick Hot Springs National Park as a destination vacation, it was quite nice as a stop. We arrived in the late afternoon, did a ranger guided tour at the Fordyce Bathouse and then enjoyed a beer flight at Superior Bathouse Brewery - only beer in the world made with thermal spring water! 🍻 The following morning we drove up near the Mountain Tower and took an easy hike & enjoyed the autumn colors before hitting the road to head back home.
We do this all the time. In 2022, on trips to TX & NM, CA, and WA, we visited 10 new national parks.
 
No particular order, they are all majestic and beautiful in their own way:
Crater Lake
Mt St Helens (national monument, not a park)
Volcanoes NP in Hawaii
Grand Canyon
Tetons
Yellowstone
Glacier Bay
 
Visiting Arches NP we got there at sunrise, stayed for a few hours, then returned at 8pm. It was summer so we hid indoors during the middle of the day. Of course early and late had great light. And no lines! This was back in the later 2000s
This would be harder to accomplish now that Arches has timed entry. My sister and some friends were just there last month... Part of the group were planning longer hikes and the other group wanted to sleep in past dawn, so there was a lot of logistics getting two different timed entries for the two different car loads. I'm not sure how'd you get in twice a day....
 
I've gone to Arches early am on separate trips, most recently in 2020. Early as in 5-6 am. Both times there was no gate guard and I just drove in. After an early morning hike, I went back to the hotel, picked up DW, and returned to the park late morning. Don't know if getting in before the gate guard gets there is still possible.
 
Mt St Helens (national monument, not a park)
I liked this one because I could actually match what happened to what I was seeing; usually it's too abstract for me to follow. Plus it was smoking a little.

Similarly, at Little Bighorn, they've done a great job with maps and descriptions, and even I can follow exactly where everybody was before and during the battle.
 
Speaking of National Parks, I stumbled across this article.

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.​

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.

We haven't been to even ONE of these. We might have to try to get to a couple, maybe Death Valley or Joshua Tree. With this well traveled bunch, who has been to these beautiful hotels?
 
Speaking of National Parks, I stumbled across this article.

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.​

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.

We haven't been to even ONE of these. We might have to try to get to a couple, maybe Death Valley or Joshua Tree. With this well traveled bunch, who has been to these beautiful hotels?
I haven’t stayed in any of them although I’ve seen several. The one in Lajitas is interesting due to the green golf course against the stark desert.
 
Speaking of National Parks, I stumbled across this article.

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.​

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.

We haven't been to even ONE of these. We might have to try to get to a couple, maybe Death Valley or Joshua Tree. With this well traveled bunch, who has been to these beautiful hotels?

We have stayed at El Tovar (years ago) and recently had lunch at the Stanley but did not stay there. This is a nice list -- we haven't yet been to Big Bend, Acadia, Great Smoky Mountains, or Death Valley but when we do visit, I would consider staying in the properties on this list. If there's an option to stay inside the park I usually prefer that if possible - we usually camp but the creature comforts of the lodges are more tempting as we age.

On one of our trips we stayed in cabins at both Bryce Canyon and Zion. Very nice to be inside the parks, especially at Zion since the road was restricted at the time we visited.
 
In Big Bend we always stay up in Chisos Basin much higher than the desert floor. It’s just a NP run motor lodge type accommodations but you absolutely cannot beat the views! Even comfortable during the heat of the summer when the desert floor is uninhabitable. Lots of great hiking up there, and birdwatching.
 
In Big Bend we always stay up in Chisos Basin much higher than the desert floor. It’s just a NP run motor lodge type accommodations but you absolutely cannot beat the views! Even comfortable during the heat of the summer when the desert floor is uninhabitable. Lots of great hiking up there, and birdwatching.
We've been there in March several years ago and it was great but I'd be surprised if they're open in the true summer months...
 
Speaking of National Parks, I stumbled across this article.

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.​

The 11 Most Beautiful National-Park Hotels in the U.S.

We haven't been to even ONE of these. We might have to try to get to a couple, maybe Death Valley or Joshua Tree. With this well traveled bunch, who has been to these beautiful
Of that list, I have only stayed at El Tovar and have driven by the Presidio, Lajitas, and The Stanley. If possible, I try to stay within the national park and prefer historic hotels or cabins. Some of the nicer historic hotels I have stayed include The Ahwahne and Wawona at Yosemite, Many Glacier Hotel, and Lake Yellowstone Hotel and Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone. Reservations for the more sought after hotels are difficult to obtain and may have to be made a year in advance and is probably the case for the listed hotels.

Also stayed in cabins at Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Glacier, Grand Canyon -South and North Rim, Bryce, Zion, Big Bend, and Sequoia/Kings Canyon - both good and bad. It sounded like a critter was inside the walls at Mammoth Hot Springs. I would love to stay at the Jenny Lake Lodge cabins but that might require planning another trip a year in advance.
 
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We've been there in March several years ago and it was great but I'd be surprised if they're open in the true summer months...
Oh yes they are! We’ve been there a couple of times in August. That’s a fantastic time to hike up into the higher elevations towards boot canyon and see thousands of migrating hummingbirds, many different species. Chisos Basin is great in August as that’s also the time to enjoy the Perseid Meteor Shower in the amazing dark sky you get at Big Bend.

Also been there in late May. They are open all summer.

Chisos Basin is at 5000ft and enjoys the late summer monsoons same as Arizona. The surrounding mountains are at 7000ft. Makes all the difference.
 
In Big Bend we always stay up in Chisos Basin much higher than the desert floor. It’s just a NP run motor lodge type accommodations but you absolutely cannot beat the views! Even comfortable during the heat of the summer when the desert floor is uninhabitable. Lots of great hiking up there, and birdwatching.
Not the easiest to get there though... not a lot of rooms...
 
Not the easiest to get there though... not a lot of rooms...
It’s been several years. Last time was 2013 I think. No trouble finding rooms back then. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s tough now as every NP is so very busy. I think Big Bend tends to be the most full November through March - at least that used to be the busy season.
 
We had lunch at the old hotel on Crater Lake, a beautiful deck with views of the crater. I always marvel at the lobby fireplaces in these old lodges.
 
Staying at Death Valley, at the Ranch not the fancy Inn, has been an annual thing for DW and me for years. The big spring fed pool is a main draw. Water is kept at a warm 85 degrees or so. We also go to the restaurant at the Inn as prices are reasonable. Next closest eatery is 25 miles away at Stovepipe Wells.
 
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