Northern Italy trip report

bonvoyage

Recycles dryer sheets
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May 13, 2019
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Just got back from a short but throughly enjoyable trip to northern Italy. This was our first trip to Italy for both my wife and me. Our daughter is getting married later this year so this was our one chance to get away for a bit.

Why northern Italy? I had a colleague at work who was from Milan and used to tell me about the interesting things to see in the north that tourists often miss. She was not wrong - there is indeed a lot to see in northern Italy! We plan to make a second trip to Italy covering Rome, Florence and Sicily next year. The itinerary for this trip was Milan (2 nights), Venice (3 nights) and Bologna (3 nights). Even this limited itinerary felt a bit rushed: I think another day would have been welcome in both Venice and Bologna.

Flew Newark to Milan nonstop on United. Thankfully the mess with the EES (Entry Exit System) seems to have been largely sorted out so immigration did not take too long. I booked a cab for us using Welcome Pickups to get to the hotel and they were great as usual (I have used this service previously in Athens and Bangkok). There’s nothing better than having a driver with a placard waiting when you come out of immigration.

Stayed at Hotel Principe de Savoia in Milan which turned out to be luxurious and well located. Saw the last Supper, Sforza castle, the Domo (Milan’s huge main cathedral), the Scala museum, and the da Vinci science and technology museum. Getting a booking to see the Last Supper on your own is pretty much impossible - the best way to see it is to book a tour, which is what I did. In any case, the tour guide to turned out to be genuinely good. The terraces on the roof of the Domo were absolutely magnificent, we were up there enjoying the architecture and the views of the city for a couple of hours. Milan Design week had just started when we were there - it was fun walking through the Brera district and looking at the hoards of fashionably clothed people walking around the galleries. The da Vinci science museum was also excellent: they have an exhibit of scale models that have been created based on his sketches.

We got around everywhere in Milan using the tram and Metro (ie subway) networks. Used Apple Pay all rides in both trams and the Metro. In fact, we only spent 5 Euros in cash on the entire trip with everything paid for with Apple Pay. I recommend using Apple Pay from an Apple Watch as you don’t have to fumble with your phone when going through turnstiles.

Took a Frecciarosa (high speed train) from Milan to Venice. I used the TrenItalia app to make all of my train bookings and found it to be extremely easy to use. You can use it for both long distance and local trains.

Arrived in the Venice Santa Lucia station and took a water taxi to our hotel, Londra Palace Venzeia which is a top-notch luxury hotel (booked with credit card points - my favorite use for points). This hotel, which is located close to St Marks square, has to be one of the finest hotels we have ever stayed in. The location was perfect as it was right next to the San Zaccaria docks for the ACTV water bus service (ferries that take you around the city). You can get a direct water bus directly to any spot in the city. Others have written about Venice but I can confirm that all superlatives are appropriate. Visited the basilica of San Marco, Doge palace and numerous other landmarks. Took a trip to the islands of Murano and Burano. Watched master glass blowers in Murano working their craft. Bought some glassware directly from the factory (had it shipped directly). We were genuinely sad to leave Venice.

Took another Frecciarosa train to Bologna which turned out to be an absolute delight: wonderfully preserved university town with numerous museums and a very lively restaurant scene. This city has the oldest functioning university in the world and has tens of thousands of students. Took a guided tour to a Parmesan cheese and Balsamic vinegar factories which included an excellent lunch. I can confirm that Italian cows are just as smelly as cows anywhere in the world :) Took a day trip by train to Ravenna to see the spectacular Byzantine era mosaics. Enjoyed numerous delicious meals everywhere - Bologna is deservedly famous for food.

Since we had an early departure from Milan back home, I booked a room at the Sheraton at the airport. We took a Frecciarosa from Bologna to Milano Centrale and then transferred to a Malpensa Express train to the airport. The train station is directly below the hotel which is also right next to the airport terminal - hard to beat the convenience! The hotel restaurant turned out to be surprisingly good so we got to enjoy one last great meal in Italy.
 
Just got back from a short but throughly enjoyable trip to northern Italy. This was our first trip to Italy for both my wife and me. Our daughter is getting married later this year so this was our one chance to get away for a bit.

Why northern Italy? I had a colleague at work who was from Milan and used to tell me about the interesting things to see in the north that tourists often miss. She was not wrong - there is indeed a lot to see in northern Italy! We plan to make a second trip to Italy covering Rome, Florence and Sicily next year. The itinerary for this trip was Milan (2 nights), Venice (3 nights) and Bologna (3 nights). Even this limited itinerary felt a bit rushed: I think another day would have been welcome in both Venice and Bologna.

Flew Newark to Milan nonstop on United. Thankfully the mess with the EES (Entry Exit System) seems to have been largely sorted out so immigration did not take too long. I booked a cab for us using Welcome Pickups to get to the hotel and they were great as usual (I have used this service previously in Athens and Bangkok). There’s nothing better than having a driver with a placard waiting when you come out of immigration.

Stayed at Hotel Principe de Savoia in Milan which turned out to be luxurious and well located. Saw the last Supper, Sforza castle, the Domo (Milan’s huge main cathedral), the Scala museum, and the da Vinci science and technology museum. Getting a booking to see the Last Supper on your own is pretty much impossible - the best way to see it is to book a tour, which is what I did. In any case, the tour guide to turned out to be genuinely good. The terraces on the roof of the Domo were absolutely magnificent, we were up there enjoying the architecture and the views of the city for a couple of hours. Milan Design week had just started when we were there - it was fun walking through the Brera district and looking at the hoards of fashionably clothed people walking around the galleries. The da Vinci science museum was also excellent: they have an exhibit of scale models that have been created based on his sketches.

We got around everywhere in Milan using the tram and Metro (ie subway) networks. Used Apple Pay all rides in both trams and the Metro. In fact, we only spent 5 Euros in cash on the entire trip with everything paid for with Apple Pay. I recommend using Apple Pay from an Apple Watch as you don’t have to fumble with your phone when going through turnstiles.

Took a Frecciarosa (high speed train) from Milan to Venice. I used the TrenItalia app to make all of my train bookings and found it to be extremely easy to use. You can use it for both long distance and local trains.

Arrived in the Venice Santa Lucia station and took a water taxi to our hotel, Londra Palace Venzeia which is a top-notch luxury hotel (booked with credit card points - my favorite use for points). This hotel, which is located close to St Marks square, has to be one of the finest hotels we have ever stayed in. The location was perfect as it was right next to the San Zaccaria docks for the ACTV water bus service (ferries that take you around the city). You can get a direct water bus directly to any spot in the city. Others have written about Venice but I can confirm that all superlatives are appropriate. Visited the basilica of San Marco, Doge palace and numerous other landmarks. Took a trip to the islands of Murano and Burano. Watched master glass blowers in Murano working their craft. Bought some glassware directly from the factory (had it shipped directly). We were genuinely sad to leave Venice.

Took another Frecciarosa train to Bologna which turned out to be an absolute delight: wonderfully preserved university town with numerous museums and a very lively restaurant scene. This city has the oldest functioning university in the world and has tens of thousands of students. Took a guided tour to a Parmesan cheese and Balsamic vinegar factories which included an excellent lunch. I can confirm that Italian cows are just as smelly as cows anywhere in the world :) Took a day trip by train to Ravenna to see the spectacular Byzantine era mosaics. Enjoyed numerous delicious meals everywhere - Bologna is deservedly famous for food.

Since we had an early departure from Milan back home, I booked a room at the Sheraton at the airport. We took a Frecciarosa from Bologna to Milano Centrale and then transferred to a Malpensa Express train to the airport. The train station is directly below the hotel which is also right next to the airport terminal - hard to beat the convenience! The hotel restaurant turned out to be surprisingly good so we got to enjoy one last great meal in Italy.
Sounds like a fantaastic trip. We have been to Italy three times and never explored the north. Definitely on our list . Thanks!
 
We’ve enjoyed a couple of visits to Northern Italy way back in the 90s when they were still on the lira. It was wonderful! The second time we did get to see the Last Supper which had finally finished a long restoration and that was fantastic! Back then we just had to wait maybe 30 mins in a line outside to see it. I was working párt of the time but took vacation time off, DH came with me, and we visited several other parts of northern Italy. We are certainly due for a return.

Thanks for the detailed trip report.
 
Nice trip report. For those reading along, I highly recommend the Italian lake region - Orta San Julio, Stresa, Bellagio, and Lugano in Switzerland are all beautiful places.
 
Nice trip report. For those reading along, I highly recommend the Italian lake region - Orta San Julio, Stresa, Bellagio, and Lugano in Switzerland are all beautiful places.
Indeed, the lake district is spectacularly beautiful but we have already visited Switzerland and saw the northern end of the lakes in Canton Ticino so I skipped that part of Italy altogether on this trip. Too much to see!
 
We have yet to visit the alps and lakes in northern Italy and Switzerland (well a little from Turin) but we once took a train from Milan to Neuremburg via Zurich, and that was fantastic! Sunny and clear on the Italian side, cloudy on the Swiss side. The views were amazing.
 
It's been over 60 years since I was in Italy as a teen. I still recall the sidewalk chalk art in Venice. The quaint bridges everywhere. The shops. The pasta. Kinda wish I had another trip in me, but that's all over now.

Thanks for sharing!!
 
Thank you for the trip report! Sounds like a wonderful trip. My better-half did a Northern Italy trip with her mom last Dec./Jan. flying in/out of Milan and absolutely loved Bologna. When we watched the Vuelta on Peacock last summer and she pointed out some of her favorite sidewalks to stroll as the cameras were following the groupo favorito.
 
Postscript - I just updated Quicken so I have the costs for this trip. Here are the numbers (rounded)
  • Airfare: $8000
  • Food: $1250
  • Hotel: $1800 (but used credit card points for some of the stays)
  • Transportation: $1300
  • Sightseeing: $1400
 
Postscript - I just updated Quicken so I have the costs for this trip. Here are the numbers (rounded)
  • Airfare: $8000
  • Food: $1250
  • Hotel: $1800 (but used credit card points for some of the stays)
  • Transportation: $1300
  • Sightseeing: $1400
Sounds very reasonable! Thanks again for sharing your amazing journey with us. If you care to share pictures, we'd love to see them, I'm sure.
 
Here you go @Koolau

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Piazza Maggiore in Bologna

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Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna

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Basilica of San Marco in Venice

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Terraces on the roof of the Domo in Milan

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Glass blowing on the island of Murano

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A canal on the island of Burano
 
Great trip report. We were able to book tickets to the last super but it required being online on the exact day the tickets opened for the day we wanted. It was definitely a challenge.
 
Great trip report!
We are visiting Italy 2nd year in a row.
@bonvoyage, for your next trip you are skipping right over an amazing part of Italy: Puglia.

Our trip last year was central and Southern Italy (Tuscany, Amalfi/Capri and Puglia). The latter was our favorite.

But we are also looking forward to hopefully multiple northern Italy trips!
 
Great trip report!
We are visiting Italy 2nd year in a row.
@bonvoyage, for your next trip you are skipping right over an amazing part of Italy: Puglia.

Our trip last year was central and Southern Italy (Tuscany, Amalfi/Capri and Puglia). The latter was our favorite.

But we are also looking forward to hopefully multiple northern Italy trips!
Love these threads - enjoyed the OP's trip report and all the comments.

Puglia is now on our list and the hunt for cheap tickets in 2027 is on.

On our way to Bologna tomorrow via Seattle and London. Three nights in Bologna, a night in Florence, a 7 day walking tour through Tuscany, 10 day tour of Sicily, and a week in an older AirBnB near Bellagio. Can't wait!

We spent 5 nights each in Florence, Venice, and Rome, and a night in Cortona in May 2023 and although very touristy, we knew we wanted to return.
 
Great trip report!
We are visiting Italy 2nd year in a row.
@bonvoyage, for your next trip you are skipping right over an amazing part of Italy: Puglia.

Our trip last year was central and Southern Italy (Tuscany, Amalfi/Capri and Puglia). The latter was our favorite.

But we are also looking forward to hopefully multiple northern Italy trips!


Northern Italy is a wonderful place to visit. Some of my favorite memories from when I was younger is eating at some of the restaurants up on the mountains. Especially the Dolomites. Almost surreal. Riva Del Garda is beautiful. Eating Palenta with local sausages and mountain cheeses at one of the many festivals is a must.
 
Great trip report. We were able to book tickets to the last super but it required being online on the exact day the tickets opened for the day we wanted. It was definitely a challenge.
Indeed, I just gave up and booked a tour. Afterwards, the tour guide said that they really prefer tour groups so they don't release many individual tickets
 
Great trip report!
We are visiting Italy 2nd year in a row.
@bonvoyage, for your next trip you are skipping right over an amazing part of Italy: Puglia.

Our trip last year was central and Southern Italy (Tuscany, Amalfi/Capri and Puglia). The latter was our favorite.

But we are also looking forward to hopefully multiple northern Italy trips
It's a tough choice for us: we are debating another trip to Italy, Crete or Spain. But will definitely put Puglia at the top of our list for Italy!
 
Northern Italy is a wonderful place to visit. Some of my favorite memories from when I was younger is eating at some of the restaurants up on the mountains. Especially the Dolomites. Almost surreal. Riva Del Garda is beautiful. Eating Palenta with local sausages and mountain cheeses at one of the many festivals is a must.
+1 on the Dolomites. We're going back with the kids and GKs for a couple of weeks in less than a year. We liked it that much. A week there & one in Switzerland. We chose our favorite places to introduce them to Europe for their 20th anniversary.

The food in the Dolomites was special with the half board option we chose.
b9453d97-7e4e-4e42-8509-455118e8216f-1_all_3336.jpg
 
My wife and Daughter are going on Sunday. I had gotten a Capital One card just for the trip to help make it easier. Does Apply Pay deal with the exchange rates and save $ or does it depend on the Card that Apple Pay is linked to?

cd : O)
 
My wife and Daughter are going on Sunday. I had gotten a Capital One card just for the trip to help make it easier. Does Apply Pay deal with the exchange rates and save $ or does it depend on the Card that Apple Pay is linked to?

cd : O)
From Google AI:

"Apple Pay itself does not charge foreign transaction fees when you use your device abroad. However, the card issuer (bank) linked to your Apple Pay may charge fees (typically 1–3%) per transaction, just as they would if you used the physical card. The Apple Card is an exception, having no foreign transaction fees."

We use our Capital One Venture X's with our Apple wallet. It's been bulletproof and we've had no foreign transaction fees on overseas purchases. Switching to our Alaska Atmos Summit card for our upcoming Italy trip. We're working on a 100k signup bonus and the card earns 3x on foreign transactions with no fee.
 
We're working on a 100k signup bonus and the card earns 3x on foreign transactions with no fee.
That's pretty strong Old Conch! I may have to get one of those. I have heard you can buy points flights on AA more cheaply via Atmos (kind of how Avios work).
 
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