Recurrent issue with Hyundai and state inspection

Fuel system

I may order the scanner and we’ll just have to take the car on a prolonged joy ride. What a huge waste of time and gas. We’re talking about numerous hours of driving for absolutely no reason.
I always make sure to fill up at Costco, or other top tier station when the inspection time is coming around. Last thing I want to fill up at Old Lukes Gas & Water station and have the vehicle complain.
 
Fuel system

I may order the scanner and we’ll just have to take the car on a prolonged joy ride. What a huge waste of time and gas. We’re talking about numerous hours of driving for absolutely no reason.
When she fills up, don't fill up all the way. Some engines have a problem with the fuel not passing into the evaporator or cannister correctly due to too much pressure from a full gas tank.

I suppose that is why the person said the fuel should be 1/2 to 3/4 of a tank.
 
Yes, apply for a waiver if available.

I had to do that here in my state after some extensive work to a vehicle that doesn't get driven much.

Fortunately no fee charged...just had to provide a couple of failed inspection reports.
 
Last edited:
I'm looking at the OBD scanners on Amazon. Prices range from $16 to nearly $300. What features do I truly need? I'm not a mechanic. We may only use this thing once every 2 years so I don't want to drop a bunch of money on it.
 
Thanks. You prefer the bluetooth one over the self-contained ones with their own screen?
Yes because there are many different apps you can get on your phone, including car manufacture specific ones, so it's more versatile. Pretty sure the free Carscanner app can do DEQ drive cycle reporting.
 
In certain counties of Maryland we have an emissions test, and it's a similar thing. If the battery has been disconnected recently, or you used a code reader to reset any error codes, you run a strong risk of not passing the emissions test. You won't fail, but they'll tell you they can't get the readings they need, and tell you to come back, something like 8 or more days later, free of charge.

Back in 2016, I had a 2000 Park Ave that had the check engine light on. It had a ton of other issues, so that was the least of its worries. The emissions test was due soon. The check engine light miraculously went out on its own early one morning, so I figured I'd take a chance and take it to the emissions test. And damn if it didn't pass!

Well, fast forward to 2022. I had a 2003 Regal that tended to eat MAF sensors and other emissions equipment like they were Skittles. Its check engine light was on. I read the codes, and it was, once again, the MAF sensor. I used the code reader to clear out the codes, and turn off the light. Four days later, when I took the car through the emissions test, the guy asked me if this car sits unused a lot? I said yeah, I work from home, so I don't really drive much. He said it was a common thing in GM cars of that era to lose some of their memory if they're not driven enough. Told me to try driving it around more, and through a variety of scenarios (short trip, out on the highway a bit, and so on) and I could come back in 8 days.

So, I tried that. I was sweating bullets the whole time, worried that damn light would come back on. But, it went the whole 8 days, and next time I took it through the test, it passed! The light did come back on a couple days later, though.

It sounds like some of these annual state inspections are even more nitpicky than this, though, when it comes to reading codes/history from the car's processor.
 
I'm looking at the OBD scanners on Amazon. Prices range from $16 to nearly $300. What features do I truly need? I'm not a mechanic. We may only use this thing once every 2 years so I don't want to drop a bunch of money on it.
I've got an older ODBLink scanner. They appear to be fairly well regarded. The key with the cheaper adapters is to find one with a reasonably well written app for you phone. That said, if you hate the app that your dongle came with, free apps like Torque Lite can be used with most adapters.

AFAIK, all you need is to be able to pull up basic codes, which they all should do. You don't need things like bi-directional control, which is for toggling computer behavior through the scanner, for advanced diagnostics.

You might want to pick an adapter and see if someone has done a YouTube video pulling up the codes/info you are looking for.
 
Side note - one of the good things about having antique plates on a car -> No emissions test required. Also in PA (for those here), if you have driven the vehicle less than 5k miles since the last emissions test, no emissions test required. Specifically: "Vehicles driven less than 5,000 miles during the full year(365 days) from a previous qualifying inspection, and that has been owned by the same owner for one year or more."
 
All these posts are evidence that these State tests are not only a waste of time and $$, but CAUSE extra pollution by pushing folks driving many extra miles in efforts to pass the silly tests! And then in many cases they ultimately give waivers anyway. Reminds me of Monty Python sketch ..... the Ministry of Silly Walks :ROFLMAO:
 
Fuel system

I may order the scanner and we’ll just have to take the car on a prolonged joy ride. What a huge waste of time and gas. We’re talking about numerous hours of driving for absolutely no reason.
What a pointless waste of time and money. I'm glad I have never lived in a place that needed these inspections. After reading this thread I will make sure I never do.
 
Happily the provincial government did away with the light vehicle emissions test programme in 2019. Now only larger commercial vehicles are tested.
 
I was going to post this to the pet peeve thread but decided it could be a standalone topic. Our daughter has a 2018 Hyundai that she bought in 2020. In the 5 years she has owned it, it has failed state inspection (NJ) twice for not meeting the "drive cycle" requirements. We had never heard of this issue before and we've lived here for over 30 years.

Apparently there is a specific set of driving metrics that need to be met in order to pass. It will fail if the battery was replaced in the past month or even if the car was serviced in the past month. Fuel should be between 1/4 and 3/4. You need to have driven at certain speeds for a certain time. It needs to have idled for a certain amount of time several times. It's quite ridiculous.

Anyway, she was due for inspection this month. Before she had a chance to take it in, her Check Engine light came on and she had to take it to the shop last week They did replace her battery along with the other service that was needed. Today we took it over for inspection since it's due by the end of the month and sure enough she failed due to the drive cycle. Now she's got to take it to the dealer (not where she normally gets service) to see if they can correct it so that it will pass inspection (which is now extended through 12/31).

As I said, we have never experienced or even heard of this problem until she got this car. I'm sure it isn't only a Hyundai problem but it must not be terribly common. It is a huge pain in the butt though. The inspection does have a nice glossy brochure that tells you all about it, but that doesn't do anything to actually help you correct the issue. She did ask at the mechanic last time and was told only the dealer can fix it.
Most mechanics know when replacing a battery or disconnect it even for a few seconds will cause cars ECM to reset causing the driving at various speeds and conditions for x miles to reset the emmisions systems. Easily avoided most mechanics when disconnecting the battery plug in a 12 volt devise to avoid any resets. This is true for all modern cars running on computers. I hope this helps
 
Never heard of this. Nor have I had anyone else talk about it. I would chalk it up to bad luck.
 
Yes, apply for a waiver if available.

I had to do that here in my state after some extensive work to a vehicle that doesn't get driven much.

Fortunately no fee charged...just had to provide a couple of failed inspection reports.
I’m not sure about NJ, but in PA if you drive less than 5000 miles annually you can get an emmisions exemption.
 
What item won't reset on drive cycle? is it emmisons related?
Hyundai offers emissions warranty, primarily the 8-Year/80,000-Mile Federal Emission Defect & Performance Warranty
 
What item won't reset on drive cycle? is it emmisons related?
Hyundai offers emissions warranty, primarily the 8-Year/80,000-Mile Federal Emission Defect & Performance Warranty
It's the Fuel System, which covers a number of things. We suspect it's because the battery had recently been changed so it may take 30 days from then to clear. I did buy a scanner and I'm checking it every couple of days after she uses the car. It passed all of the emissions tests just fine.
 
It's the Fuel System, which covers a number of things. We suspect it's because the battery had recently been changed so it may take 30 days from then to clear. I did buy a scanner and I'm checking it every couple of days after she uses the car. It passed all of the emissions tests just fine.
Yeah, I threw a code on my 2000 Mazda (actually - a Ford) which said it was the fuel system. The unfortunate thing is that it could have been anything from a loose gas cap to a bad fuel pump! The thing ran okay so I never explored further. They said it likely would be $600 labor just to pin down the actual issues. Nah, I'm good.
 
Yeah, I threw a code on my 2000 Mazda (actually - a Ford) which said it was the fuel system. The unfortunate thing is that it could have been anything from a loose gas cap to a bad fuel pump! The thing ran okay so I never explored further. They said it likely would be $600 labor just to pin down the actual issues. Nah, I'm good.
I wish ignoring it was an option but it’s not.
 
I am surprised it just says fuel system. Everytime I have had to troubleshoot an emissions code it was more specific. I am not sure how this went from "not ready for emissions test" to having an active code, but codes are usually easier to troubleshoot. Youtube and owner's forums for your make/model are great resources. What exactly is the code?
 
TX had vehicle state inspections, but only certain high population density counties had emissions testing. This year TX dropped the annual state inspection but emissions testing is still required in those counties.

This is the second really stupid thing (and there maybe others) our law makers here have done in the past few years that will help reduce Texas public safety. IMO
 
I am surprised it just says fuel system. Everytime I have had to troubleshoot an emissions code it was more specific. I am not sure how this went from "not ready for emissions test" to having an active code, but codes are usually easier to troubleshoot. Youtube and owner's forums for your make/model are great resources. What exactly is the code?
The problem is "Fuel System". Everything else passed.

I can look it up on YouTube and see what I can find.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1430.jpg
    IMG_1430.jpg
    138.2 KB · Views: 31
Back
Top Bottom