Retirement planning starting in 2026 - need advice

Get started with a good book to get a basic understanding of investing. Otherwise it's like wanting to learn how to drive a car and getting advice on how traffic lights work - helpful, but you're starting in the details vs the big picture.

You might do very well talking with a Financial Advisor - a good one, only a Fiduciary - and letting them help you get started for a year or three.
 
When dealing with the various tax issues, including contribution limits for IRAs, it is best to go right to the source - the Internal Revenue Service

For 2025 and 2024, the total contributions you make each year to all of your traditional IRAs and Roth IRAs can't be more than:

  • $7,000 ($8,000 if you're age 50 or older), or
  • If less, your taxable compensation for the year


Highlights of changes for 2026​

The annual contribution limit for employees who participate in 401(k), 403(b), governmental 457 plans, and the federal government’s Thrift Savings Plan is increased to $24,500, up from $23,500 for 2025.

The limit on annual contributions to an IRA is increased to $7,500 from $7,000. The IRA catch‑up contribution limit for individuals aged 50 and over was amended under the SECURE 2.0 Act of 2022 (SECURE 2.0) to include an annual cost‑of‑living adjustment is increased to $1,100, up from $1,000 for 2025.
 
So, I've been doing my reading and I would like to ask the following, in order to fully understand the basics:

As mentioned, my accountant told me to open up a “traditional IRA” and deposit $7,000 for 2025 tax year. He goes on to say I have up to April 15, 2026 to deposit this amount for 2025. Going forward, I should actually put the $7k in this account every year since it will offset your tax liabilities. Then he would also recommend I put away another $7,000 in a ROTH IRA (there is no tax benefit now but you will have a benefit when you draw the funds on retirement he says.)

When you have a chance, I would also recommend either getting a new accountant or stop listening to this particular accountant on tax subjects. He's quite wrong as others have already pointed out, and it's a pretty basic tax rule. If he's wrong on this, then he could easily advise you to do other things that are wrong.

If you did follow his advice, you'd be subject to excess contribution penalties from the IRS. Those don't sound fun, do they?

In fact, I'd probably reconsider him doing any accounting work for me as well. If I know his tax advice is wrong, I'd suspect his bookkeeping skills might be lacking also.

For clearer understanding, can you reply as followed (by numbered questions:)

1. Is it $7,000 for under 50 or $7,500? I've read $7,500

joesxm3 answered this above; his answer sounds right to me. The contribution limit goes up by $500 every so often because the tax law says the limit must be adjusted for inflation.

2. Am I doing traditional IRA and ROTH IRA at the same time each year? Are these 2 different accounts?

Two different accounts, as already mentioned. You can open and contribute to them at different times and in different amounts if you want.

3. Meaning, should I factor to put away a total of $14,000/$15,000 yearly? Because I have read you can only put away a total of $7,000/(or if it's $7,500) a year?

Again, your accountant is wrong. It's the $7000/$7500 amount per person per tax year between both traditional and Roth IRAs. As noted repeatedly by several.

Even though you can have as many IRA accounts you want. (which doesn't make sense to me why you would have multiple IRAs if the maximum amount of money cannot be exceeded.)

Most people just have one of each type. There are arcane reasons to have more than one, but you probably don't need to worry about those for now.

4. I plan to go with Fidelity. Does anyone worry about Fidelity being taken over, shut down, going out of business etc. What happens then?

Thanks again.

Fidelity is very large and very stable and very well respected and managed. They are also large enough and significant enough and there is enough insurance and audit protection in place to where the federal government would probably backstop them somehow in a crisis. I have zero concerns about them continuing to operate.

Also, they are a custodian. They're just doing the buying / selling / holding / paperwork for you on your investments. When you buy an investment with them, regardless of what happens to them, you still own the underlying investment. So hypothetically you buy 100 shares of IBM at Fidelity and Fidelity goes under, you still own 100 shares of IBM. Of course, the value of IBM shares can fluctuate.
 
One other thought that has worked well for me over the years and allowed me to retire comfortably in 2016 at the age of 59.

I considered my Fidelity accounts to be a one way street. Money from pay check sent to Fidelity never to leave until i retire. Sort of like Hotel California. Or in this case Hotel Massachusetts :)
 
I was talking to my brother and father, so my father calls a friend who is in finance and we made an appointment for Monday morning to speak with him. I'm writing down the points mentioned here and I'll see what he says/recommends and I'll check back.
 
First let me say welcome to this forum. What we offer is not financial advice in the legal sense, since we are not licensed nor have a professional relationship with you. However, our opinions are based on decades of experience, mistakes, and the help of others with which we wish to pay it forward. The key thing is there are no ulterior motives to the information offered here. With that said here is my two cents worth.

If you are making more than $153K in 2026 you can't open or contribute to a ROTH. See -


If you are making less than $153K in 2026, then IMO (means in my opinion) open a ROTH and not an IRA. If you start with an IRA, you will likely want to convert it to a ROTH later, so you might as well start with a ROTH now.

Regarding Broker choice Fidelity is excellent. I have done ALL my investments and banking with Fidelity for 20+ years with no serious problems. Things I like about them -
1) A regular brokerage account can act like a free checking account. You get a free check book and your cash earns money market rates. Much better than any bank checking account.
2) Their ATM card with the account works at at any bank ATM machine and they reimburse you for the fee the bank machine charges.
3) The Fidelity office I used had a refrigerator with free soft drinks and cookies you could have while you waited to see someone.
4) They do free wire transfers to anywhere in the world and have free toll free numbers in most countries if you need to call in an emergency.
5) You can apply for their no fee 2% cash back credit card (its a Visa card). Its the only card I use.

Fido has been in business since 1946 and is privately owned by the founding Johnson family and their employees. The current CEO is Abigail Johnson representing the third generation of the family (she has two daughters). They have $17.5 Trillion assets under administration. IMO they will never be sold in your lifetime.
 
I was talking to my brother and father, so my father calls a friend who is in finance and we made an appointment for Monday morning to speak with him. I'm writing down the points mentioned here and I'll see what he says/recommends and I'll check back.
Have you started reading/learning for yourself?

This isn't rocket science. You don't know what motivations this friend of your father may have. Many people in this business are happy to part people with their money.
 
Once you open your brokerage account (I hope at Fidelity), you need to think about what to do next. First thing is to open either an IRA or a ROTH which you can fund as others have mentioned. If you use Fidelity, your retirement account will be linked with your brokerage account and you can view these online at any time.
Next you need to decide where to invest your money. Many posters have suggested an index fund like VOO or VTI as a starting point. These are fine suggestions. My suggestion is to read my thread titled "Why I like certain alternative investments" on the Active Investing forum.
In the "olden days" of 20-30 years ago index funds were the best one could do over the long haul and are the reason why Vanguard is the powerhouse it is today. However IMO index funds are no longer the only good choice with the advent of more powerful computers, machine learning, and most importantly Artificial Intelligence. Most institutions and high net worth individuals now allocate a significant portion of their portfolios to liquid alternatives. After reading my thread you can decide whether this makes sense for you.
As always all of us here will be glad to answer your questions as you take this exciting investment journey.

Cheers, Dennis

PS: At your age I think the annual caps on investing in an IRA or a ROTH will limit your chances of building a large enough retirement nest egg. IMO you will also need to put money aside in your taxable brokerage account to improve your chances of success. In this case you would need to consider after tax performance of such investments which we can discuss later.
 
Thanks again for the advice. I'm reading and taking this in. Yes it's not rocket science, however, just with anything new, everything seems overwhelming at the time but when adjusting to things becomes easier. And no need for any disclaimer - I certainly won't come back on this board and say 'you made me do it.' We are simply having a conversation as strangers with common goals.
 
I was talking to my brother and father, so my father calls a friend who is in finance and we made an appointment for Monday morning to speak with him. I'm writing down the points mentioned here and I'll see what he says/recommends and I'll check back.

Here's what you need to know about investing - Stocks are the major source of long term returns, unless you are a very high earner, you can't succeed without them. I would start with 60% stocks, 40% bonds.

You cannot guess (nor can anyone else no matter how sure they sound) when good times or bad times will come, in spite of the fact that you will be certain that you can. Occasionally, stocks will go down and the world will seem to be going into the toilet, getting worse every day. If you sell, you will regret it, but if you hold on, you will be rewarded with outstanding growth later. Remember the goal is not to get rich tomorrow, but to get rich in 20-30 years. Over long periods of time, the market returns of stocks are your best friend.

For stocks, choose a total market ETF like Vanguard's VTI. You can own it an any brokerage, just like owning a stock. It has thousands of stocks in it, weighted in the way the market values the companies. It's very tax efficient and low cost.

If you want to diversify to include companies outside the US, then Vanguard's VXUS is a good choice, again you can hold it at any brokerage. The US is about 2/3 of the market capitalization of the world, so ideally you would hold 1/3 of your stocks as VXUS, though I only hold about half that much as the US has been beating the world for so long that it feels permanent (might not be of course). Invest when you have money, not when you think the time is right.

For bonds, an intermediate treasury fund is OK as a starting point. A ladder of TIPS has attraction, but that is a more advanced concept that I wouldn't implement yet.

Rebalance back to your target about once a year or whenever there is a huge market move.
That's it!

If you buy a broad index fund, then you do not need to pay attention to the money or the returns, worrying about it causes stress and bad behaviors.

I would be a little careful with this friend, there are many snakes in "finance" that seem friendly, but their goal is to extract as much money from your wallet and place it in their wallet as possible.

If this is an advisor that wants you to sign up right now, then I would run, not walk, to the door. Right now, you are an "easy mark" for the worst of the worst to take advantage of you.

An advisor that charges 1% of the assets under management each year could cost a young person like yourself nearly HALF of everything over the course of your life. But it can be worse than that as many advisors will lure the unsuspecting like yourself into terrible products like whole life or indexed annuities, not because they are good for you, but because they make a ton of money on commissions selling you trash. It also seems to just about be a requirement that they build an overly complex portfolio, often with proprietary funds that have high costs on top of the Assets-Under-Management fees. So I wouldn't agree to do anything right now, come back after your meeting and let us give you unbiased thoughts on what you were told.

Note that by the time you can tell a good advisor from a shark, you won't need one at all.
 
I would add that: When in doubt, keep it simple. 2 or 3 mutual funds just might be all you need. The bulk of my funds (after 20 years of retirement) are still in US Stocks with some XUS stocks funds and then bond-like funds (I have a Guaranteed Income Fund in my old 401(k) as well as some MYGAs). I happen to keep some Precious Metals as well, but that's a bit more complicated than equities/bonds.

I wouldn't exactly say I ignore my funds, but I don't check them very often. I know from "the news" whether my funds have gone up or down. I do most of my rebalancing by taking from my funds for living expenses (and RMDs in my case).
 
I was talking to my brother and father, so my father calls a friend who is in finance and we made an appointment for Monday morning to speak with him. I'm writing down the points mentioned here and I'll see what he says/recommends and I'll check back.
I didn’t see if you posted about other savings or income in general….also if you are looking to FIRE before your FRA, currently 67.

Seems like everyone is limiting responses to IRA limits…. You know you can open an investment account and sock away as much as possible with post tax money (and need to pay tax on any gains) but still call it a retirement fund?

So my suggestion is you quickly look at all your other Financial accounts and see what you could invest long term now for your projected retirement date. A stool with one leg is not stable, build a financial plan with an IRA, investment accounts, and maybe real estate as the 3rd leg to build a stable future. Figure out how to put away (not necessarily into a IRA) as much as possible for a couple of years by Living Below Your Means LBYM so that can grow and compound for as long as possible.

Also OP said he is in his 40’s. That could be 41 or 49 and those 9 years are CRITICAL at this stage. I retired at 52 and that didn’t happen from 401k’s or IRA contributions! But from a comprehensive budgeting, saving and investing program. Also some great luck as well as advice and help from people a lot smarter than me about these things….
 
My suggestion regarding IRAs and what type to start would be to at least open up a *Roth IRA. There are certain 5yr rules regarding them and I've known folks that just didn't get around to it until their retirement years - when they wanted to do conversions; not a horrible issue, but it still put some contraints on them until the 5yr window is met.
(Sorry this is kind of high level stuff, but learning is a great path to be on.)

You can just open it up with a small pittance of money, whatever the brokerage's minimum is. Then you have it in place, regardless if you choose to go the route of contributing the remainder of your 7000 (for 2025) in a traditional IRA.

You've got a lot of good info from this forum, the members really are terrific!

Edit: *if your income allows for a direct contribution. If not, there are ways around that but it's more of a higher level topic.
 
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