Synthetic Engine Oil

I have a Ram 1500 ecodiesel. Oil changes are around $300 because there is some fancy synthetic oil that they use and a lot of it, like 10 quarts for a tiny 3L V6. I change it once a year, which is around 6K miles. I would go longer but it's used primarily to tow a travel trailer so seems prudent to change oil more regularly.
 
I’m happy to let the Toyota dealer change my oil, for free*.

* Prepaid at time of purchase.
 
Many years ago I sent an oil sample to Blackstone Labs from my 2000 F350 diesel. The oil had 6500 miles on it (Shell Rotella synthetic) and the engine about 140k miles. The analysys came back to run it another 3-4k and then change it. At 25 below in the winter, conventional oil does not crank over very well where synthetic is no problem. I've been running synthetic since the early 80's. I currently have 2 Audi's that have 212k and 225k miles on them and the F350 now has 199k. I ran an 85 F250 diesel to over 325k.
When I ran diesels I used Blacksone analysis for every oil change interval. With these newer gasoline cars, not much gets in the oil to cause a problem. You do have to watch TBN (additive depletion), but with 7,500 change intervals, that's not an issue, especially with synthetics and today's additive packages. A lot of good oil gets wasted changing early.
 
I have a Ram 1500 ecodiesel. Oil changes are around $300 because there is some fancy synthetic oil that they use and a lot of it, like 10 quarts for a tiny 3L V6. I change it once a year, which is around 6K miles. I would go longer but it's used primarily to tow a travel trailer so seems prudent to change oil more regularly.
Hmm.. you can get Mobil-1 in a 5-quart container at Walmart for around $30 so yours must be really something. Just checked (don’t know if this works for your truck):

Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck Full Syn Motor Oil 5W-40 1 Gal. Case of 3:​

$115.81
 
Hmm.. you can get Mobil-1 in a 5-quart container at Walmart for around $30 so yours must be really something. Just checked (don’t know if this works for your truck):

Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck Full Syn Motor Oil 5W-40 1 Gal. Case of 3:​

$115.81
I'm guessing poster surprising is paying someone to do the oil change, so there's always the shop markup on the oil.

Still, $300 sounds like a lot for an oil change, 10 qts. notwithstanding. Caveat, mechanics gotta eat too.
 
I'm guessing poster surprising is paying someone to do the oil change, so there's always the shop markup on the oil.

Still, $300 sounds like a lot for an oil change, 10 qts. notwithstanding. Caveat, mechanics gotta eat too.
My friend with an Audi Q7 diesel pays $300 for an oil change at the dealer. But since the techs charge $200/hr,, one hour of labor and the other $100 is for the oil and filter.. What a screw job.
 
Oil changes do seem to be a rip-off these days. Inflation not withstanding, my cost for an oil change has nearly doubled in 5 years. Somebody's getting "rich."
 
Oil changes do seem to be a rip-off these days. Inflation not withstanding, my cost for an oil change has nearly doubled in 5 years. Somebody's getting "rich."
Audi dealers are some of those getting rich on oil changes. My Chevy guy charges $69.00.
 
I have a RAM 1500 5.7L HEMI. I change the oil myself in all my cars and will continue to do so until I physically cannot. I don't even want the dealership doing it and I surely don't want to sit at the dealership for 2 hours waiting on my vehicle. My last oil change cost me $50.73. I buy the oil (synthetic) and filter from Walmart and in 30 mins I'm done.
 
I have a RAM 1500 5.7L HEMI. I change the oil myself in all my cars and will continue to do so until I physically cannot. I don't even want the dealership doing it and I surely don't want to sit at the dealership for 2 hours waiting on my vehicle. My last oil change cost me $50.73. I buy the oil (synthetic) and filter from Walmart and in 30 mins I'm done.

Lol, I'm guessing on a RAM truck, you don't even need to jack it up to do an oil change.
 
Lol, I'm guessing on a RAM truck, you don't even need to jack it up to do an oil change.
Heh, heh, back when I was skinny, I'd pull my '56 Chevy up on a high curb, put down a piece of cardboard and slide under to do the deed.
 
Crawling under a car for any reason, other than to retrieve something I dropped and that invariably came to rest beneath the car, is something I offloaded when money became less of an object.
 
Crawling under a car for any reason, other than to retrieve something I dropped and that invariably came to rest beneath the car, is something I offloaded when money became less of an object.
It's not always a money thing.
Some people actually enjoy fiddling with their cars.

I only do the easy stuff myself. I do like peaking under the car when doing an oil change, to look for early rust, of if some garage bent up the frame rail lifting the car, etc.
 
It's not always a money thing.
Some people actually enjoy fiddling with their cars.

I only do the easy stuff myself. I do like peaking under the car when doing an oil change, to look for early rust, of if some garage bent up the frame rail lifting the car, etc.
Well, maybe if it was a classic car… There’s nothing repairable aside from air filters or washer fluid on most modern cars. But my back would protest early and often if I stood bent over a fender wrenching under the hood for very long.
 
Crawling under a car for any reason, other than to retrieve something I dropped and that invariably came to rest beneath the car, is something I offloaded when money became less of an object.
Yeah, I quit that "nonsense" myself when I got "rich."

Who was it who said "I've been rich and I've been poor. Rich is better." They were right.
 
My Toyota hybrid requires the use of synthetic 0W-16 oil. It's pretty thin stuff. I replace it at 7000 miles. 25,000 miles with filter changes at 10,000 was a marketing department invention, IMHO.

Some people try to use 0W-20 oil instead, but I am told the oil system's pumps and channels are made for this thinner oil, and thus the it is the one that should be used.

According to one fellow, supposedly, the 10,000 mile recommendation came from a marketing business decision about what oil change interval would minimize the warranty payouts during the 100,000 miles warranty period. Make your own decision on that.
I have a Subaru that calls for 0-16 oil as well. The exact same car is sold in other countries calls for 0-20. I called Subaru Of America about this. They said they run 0-16 in USA to boost fuel economy numbers and for no other reason. They told me that 0-20 would not void warranty.
 
It's not always a money thing.
Some people actually enjoy fiddling with their cars.

I only do the easy stuff myself. I do like peaking under the car when doing an oil change, to look for early rust, of if some garage bent up the frame rail lifting the car, etc.
IMO, changing your oil is the single most important routine maintenance task you can do to your vehicle to prolong its life. I just want to make sure it's done right.
 
Subaru has the filter as you described...right under the hood, so easy to replace. Draining the oil can be a mess. I use a large sheet of cardboard and lots of rags on hand just in case I miss the drain pan. I have a 50% chance of a clean job; but I am ready for the other half.
Could use an oil extractor, I've used one for car with oil filter at top, this saved me from having to climb underneath. Also reduced the risk of damaging treads for oil pan plug. This is less messy, but does take longer. Here is a link to a one (manual, without air pump) -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06W...d_r=bfcd0ef6-d889-408c-ae8b-7b2d95c1a0c3&th=1
 
I drive relatively few miles and since I don't have any extreme weather, I change every 2 years which is about 5K miles.
Our daughter was visiting this week, and I checked the fluids on her car. The oil was still light-colored at 8 months; it had covered about 2K miles.
 
I believe concerns about vehicle maintenance are analogous to awareness of your own health: The mere fact that you discuss, research and argue over oil change intervals indicates you are all in the cohort least likely to experience engine failure that stems from your choices.
 
In defense, I’ve changed the oil myself, and wrenched on cars, but out of necessity.

I traded a defunct VW bug for a ‘62 Caddy way back when. Big mistake. Leaked oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, antifreeze…
 
Well yesterday I had to take the DW to the doctor. I had a choice, sit in the waiting room for two hours or run a few errands. So I stopped by the hardware store, pharmacy, mailed a letter, got gas and sill had plenty of time left before I had to pick her up. Soooooo, since I was in my "work truck", I stop by a quick change oil shop and had them change my oil and filter. Wow that was quick. In and out in ~15mins. But what a price to pay at $114. Not sure I'll do that again.
 
All these new vehicles all tell you when the oil needs to be changed. What is wrong with just listening to what the car is telling us when to change the oil.
It is in my experience that is a way longer than what we change at now.
 
All these new vehicles all tell you when the oil needs to be changed. What is wrong with just listening to what the car is telling us when to change the oil.

I'm concerned those longer intervals may be what the manufacturer has calculated will permit the engine to last beyond the warranty period, not last for 2-300,000 miles.
 
I'm concerned those longer intervals may be what the manufacturer has calculated will permit the engine to last beyond the warranty period, not last for 2-300,000 miles.
I think that's exactly right.
 
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