Toilet Install Project

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We are going through the design and permit process for facelift and remodel of a home we just bought. It has a 1/2-bath behind the garage where I would like to temporarily install an elongated toilet with a spare Washlet (bidet) in it for all of us when we visit the house.

I can hire a plumber and be done with it but I want to do this project myself as a challenge, especially if I screw it up I know it is getting torn out and remodeled, anyway. I look at this as a project and a challenge to try to get it right.

Any inexpensive model elongated toilets recommended? The new design will probably have higher end Toto toilets. I picked up some high-end Washlets while I was in Japan last year and those will be used with the final finishes. These are the ones that lift the lid when you enter the room and are confirmed compatible with 120V US power even though they say 100V only on the box. The Toto rep at the factory showroom in Tokyo told me Americans take these home all the time without issues, just make sure the GFCI is wired properly.

The house has 4 round toilets like out of the 60s or 70s. Wife and I prefer elongated with Washlet (bidet). We spend time at the house in its current state planning the landscaping ideas, ADU placement, etc. The toilets suck, to be perfectly honest.

That said, any pointers from any plumbers or home improvement experts out there? YouTube resources?

I understand the elevation is very important, rubber rings are probably better than wax rings and an important factor is to make sure the toilet is flush with the existing floor so it doesn't rock and remains very stable. I've installed toilets with wax rings before with mixed results, prior to YouTube.
 
I'm not a plumber, but I have heard that a good flapper is very important.
 
We built our own house completely on our on (well still putting the finishing touches in) and installing a Toto elongated toilet from Costco was quite easy. The Costco model even comes with a wax seal. They make a rubber gasketed sort of compression toilet flange thing if you have an existing old pipe system that you cannot for some reason attach a flange or it is damaged somehow. Since our house was new construction, we just used one of the common Oatey PVC toilet flanges with the stainless steel ring.

Compared to doing drywall mud, I'd say I would install 50 toilets for every one room of drywall, if someone offered me the choice.
 
Plenty of choices and price range at the big box stores, good idea to get a dual flush to save on water, I like the ones I have (American Standard). If you have a really old house you might want to pull up the old one first to make sure the flange is still in good shape, that might determine whether you'll need an adapter or a plumber to proceed, otherwise it's a fairly easy job. My county gives a rebate when replacing old toilets with new water efficient ones, might want to look into that.
 
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I really don't see much point in dual flush when toilets use so little water nowadays for a regular flush compared to your great grandads 4 gallon model that could flush a small dog.
 
I really don't see much point in dual flush when toilets use so little water nowadays for a regular flush compared to your great grandads 4 gallon model that could flush a small dog.
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If you don’t want to spend money, just look at Home Depot or Lowe’s for a cheap one with a good rating. Personally, I’d go ahead and install a Toto now. Come time to demo the bathroom, you can remove the toilet and reinstall it after the work is done. They’re really quite easy to deal with.
 
Just make sure you measure the distance from wall to center of drain pipe. I don’t remember but current standard is something like 8” or 9”.
However, older homes sometimes have different spans.
Whatever that span is, you can get a toilet that works you just want to measure and purchase accordingly. More info on the web.
You don’t want to buy with too large a span, won’t fit, toilet hits the wall. If the toilet span is too small the toilet sits out in the room too far. It would work but look odd.
 
We bought our replacement toilet from Costco. They had installers available (for a price). Everything went well and it w*rks great. The installer even took the old one away for us.
 
It may not fit OP's definition of inexpensive, but I installed Totos in our 2018 remodel, and had no problems with the install or since.

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And I like the Toto because it came with a mounting plate that allowed for the toilet to set farther from the back wall made necessary by the addition of wainscoting.

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Toto Drake is a great, basic toilet...I bought three for dad's place over a decade ago @ ~$250 each.

Though the flapper on one was flawed and failed a few months later.

Replaced it with a Korky, my preferred brand of universal flapper.
 
We are going through the design and permit process for facelift and remodel of a home we just bought. It has a 1/2-bath behind the garage where I would like to temporarily install an elongated toilet with a spare Washlet (bidet) in it for all of us when we visit the house.

I can hire a plumber and be done with it but I want to do this project myself as a challenge, especially if I screw it up I know it is getting torn out and remodeled, anyway. I look at this as a project and a challenge to try to get it right.

Any inexpensive model elongated toilets recommended? The new design will probably have higher end Toto toilets. I picked up some high-end Washlets while I was in Japan last year and those will be used with the final finishes. These are the ones that lift the lid when you enter the room and are confirmed compatible with 120V US power even though they say 100V only on the box. The Toto rep at the factory showroom in Tokyo told me Americans take these home all the time without issues, just make sure the GFCI is wired properly.

The house has 4 round toilets like out of the 60s or 70s. Wife and I prefer elongated with Washlet (bidet). We spend time at the house in its current state planning the landscaping ideas, ADU placement, etc. The toilets suck, to be perfectly honest.

That said, any pointers from any plumbers or home improvement experts out there? YouTube resources?

I understand the elevation is very important, rubber rings are probably better than wax rings and an important factor is to make sure the toilet is flush with the existing floor so it doesn't rock and remains very stable. I've installed toilets with wax rings before with mixed results, prior to YouTube.
I put one of these in 4 years ago. No issues and looks pretty good. Glacier Bay McClure 12 inch Rough In One-Piece 1.1 GPF/1.6 GPF Dual Flush Elongated Toilet in White Seat Included N2420 - The Home Depot
 
Just make sure you measure the distance from wall to center of drain pipe. I don’t remember but current standard is something like 8” or 9”.
However, older homes sometimes have different spans.
Whatever that span is, you can get a toilet that works you just want to measure and purchase accordingly. More info on the web.
You don’t want to buy with too large a span, won’t fit, toilet hits the wall. If the toilet span is too small the toilet sits out in the room too far. It would work but look odd.
The literature calls this "offset," or "rough-in." It is measured from the wall (not thick baseboard) to the flange center, i.e. where the bolts are. You can do this with the toilet in place by measuring to the bolts on a standard toilet. However, fancy Toto or other brands have fancy smooth sides that make this impossible. Good luck!

The standards are 10", 12" and 14". You may measure up to 1/2" either side of these. Gallaher, I'm guessing you had a 10" rough-in and a quick measurement was close to 9", so you remembered that. There should be no rough-ins below 10" (or say, 9 1/2"). They don't make anything below 10" these days. However, the rumor is that a few Toto versions can handle a 9" rough-in, snug against the wall. The easiest way to get saddled with a 9" rough-in is by adding something like shiplap to the wall on an already tight rough-in. Sometimes people forget about that!

The most typical today is 12". Almost all off the shelf toilets at Home Depot, Lowes or Menards are 12" offset. Occasionally they have 10", but very few choices. They can order the others, or you can go to a plumbing supply and get a 10" or 14" in stock. 10" was common in an older era. Today, 10" and 14" still happen if the plumber is dealing with floor joist issues, but they are not common.

A 10" rough-in can go on a 12" flange, but a 12" cannot go on a 10" flange. The wall will be in the way. It is not good practice to put a 10" on a 12" because there is a big gap behind. That said, I see 12" rough-in toilets placed on 14" offset flanges all the time. 14" offsets are almost always special order.
 
Two Kohlers plus install, $1000, Home Despot

I’ve done the job a few times over the years, but it was worth having it done, or at least my back thinks so.
 
...The house has 4 round toilets like out of the 60s or 70s. Wife and I prefer elongated with Washlet (bidet). We spend time at the house in its current state planning the landscaping ideas, ADU placement, etc. The toilets suck, to be perfectly honest. ...
I have to wonder how important elongated vs round is if this is just a temporary toilet... perhaps just live with a round toilet temporarily?

We have added bidets attachments to a couple toilets in each of our homes. Not high brow like what you will eventually have but they are inexpensive, work well and are easy to install.

Wax rings are easy to install IME.
 
Two Kohlers plus install, $1000, Home Despot

I’ve done the job a few times over the years, but it was worth having it done, or at least my back thinks so.
I do a lot of handiwork, but I have someone else lift the toilets. Toilet replacement absolutely lead to my back surgery 8 years ago.
 
I will add that a sponge or rubber toilet ring gasket work better on toilets against concrete/tile floors that get really cold in the winter. I guess the regular wax rings get cold and the seal can break during the hot to cold cycle. And make sure to shim it if it rocks.
 
I've replaced a couple over the years and used American Standard/Eljer's. So simple a caveman could do it.:)
 
I will add that a sponge or rubber toilet ring gasket work better on toilets against concrete/tile floors that get really cold in the winter. I guess the regular wax rings get cold and the seal can break during the hot to cold cycle.
I'm a huge fan of old fashioned wax rings over the newfangled rubber. It is 2,500 year old plumbing technology! But you have a very good point about cold weather. Good perspective.
 
+1 on the wax ring. It is pretty foolproof if you use the correct one. They make taller thicker ones for certain toilets and installations.
 
I think you are overthinking it. Toilet is probably one of the easiest things you can install in a house. Make sure you stick the wax ring on the bottom of the toilet before flipping it over and locating over the flange. Setting the toilet down is the hardest part: lifting, aligning screws and flange hole.

PS: I may be taking it too easy because I have done a gut out renovation of a whole house.
 
Two Kohlers plus install, $1000, Home Despot

I’ve done the job a few times over the years, but it was worth having it done, or at least my back thinks so.
Yeah, with my back situation, I would't have even considered it. Plus, having a pro do it gives at least a theoretical ability for resolution of any issues arriving from the installation. If I screw it up, it's totally on me. Worth the money to get a pro.
 
Haven't read all responses, but for a temporary setup, if it were me, I'd pick up a $100 (elongated or round, whatever preferred) toilet from HomeDepot or Lowes, use the included wax ring, and be done with it.
 
Haven't read all responses, but for a temporary setup, if it were me, I'd pick up a $100 (elongated or round, whatever preferred) toilet from HomeDepot or Lowes, use the included wax ring, and be done with it.
Most important to me now is the height. I want the "invalid" height now - no substitutes. I'm done with squat toilets - forever.
 
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