When To Replace High Mileage Car?

[Chuckanut]

Normally I drive cars well over 100,000 miles.

As I age I find the new safety features to be more important. In particular I like blind side monitoring and adaptive cruise control. Lane monitoring is also nice as long as it can be turned off on non curvy roads. They relieve a lot of the stress on road trips and when backing out of a parking slot with poor visibility.

If my car did not already have them, I would make an exception to my 100,000+ miles habit and buy a newer car that had those features plus the accident avoidance braking etc.

 

[Teacher Terry]

I had no intention of buying a new car until the tariffs were frequently mentioned. My car had low mileage but was 17 years old. I have to say I love the safety features on my new car especially the back up camera. It’s also so much nicer to drive.

 

[JoeWras]

Yes, anytime a misfire occurs, it creates an emission problem and raw fuel that may damage the cat converter or O2 sensor(s).

Yes, exactly. This is the common "bad" one that causes the CEL to flash/blink. Running for some time with it can cause a lot of trouble.

I'd say you can limp a few miles without problems. DW recently had a blinking CEL on her 17 year old Toyota. She stopped and called me. Since she was only 2 miles away, I told her she could drive home with caution. I was able to pull the codes and identify the misfire. New coil fixed her right up. A very satisfying repair.

My decision tree:
* "Keep Going": solid check engine, ABS, low washer fluid
* "Limp Home (10 miles) with Caution": flashing check engine, TPMS, transmission general
* "Pull Off (1 mile), Evaluate": charging system
* "Stop immediately, Call for Tow": oil pressure, engine/transmission overheat

 

[freedomatlast]

One in my fleet has 355,000 miles and I have no intentions of replacing it. Just sold one on Saturday with only 4,400 miles. For me, there are a lot more factors to consider than just mileage when deciding when to dump a vehicle.

 

[Koolau]

Yes, exactly. This is the common "bad" one that causes the CEL to flash/blink. Running for some time with it can cause a lot of trouble.

I'd say you can limp a few miles without problems. DW recently had a blinking CEL on her 17 year old Toyota. She stopped and called me. Since she was only 2 miles away, I told her she could drive home with caution. I was able to pull the codes and identify the misfire. New coil fixed her right up. A very satisfying repair.

My decision tree:
* "Keep Going": solid check engine, ABS, low washer fluid
* "Limp Home (10 miles) with Caution": flashing check engine, TPMS, transmission general
* "Pull Off (1 mile), Evaluate": charging system
* "Stop immediately, Call for Tow": oil pressure, engine/transmission overheat

Heh, heh, DW "limped" home from Krogers one day when a tie rod broke. One tire was more or less non functional and left a black streak for half a mile. But she made it home. I don't know how. If a car will move, she'll run it until it won't move any more. Could be smoke (or fire) coming out of it and she'd still drive it. Fortunately, we no longer drive such clunkers any more, so haven't had to deal with the issue recently.

 

[easysurfer]

My previous car I owned too long. Now I got by the if the transmission or engine needs replaced, those are deal breaker and time to get new car. Otherwise, play it by ear. To repair or chuck it and get new? That is the question.

 

[Texas Proud]

One in my fleet has 355,000 miles and I have no intentions of replacing it. Just sold one on Saturday with only 4,400 miles. For me, there are a lot more factors to consider than just mileage when deciding when to dump a vehicle.

Curious minds wonder....

Why? What was the vehicle and what about it made you want to get rid of it?

 

[freedomatlast]

Sure, vehicle was a 2023 Camaro 2SS with a rare 6 speed manual transmission in Riverside Blue. I was offered a little over $8000 more than I paid for it a year ago, since they don't make them anymore, and the guy had to have it. He told me he had been looking for a 2SS 6 speed in Riverside Blue for awhile exactly as this one was equipped. I found something else I wanted even more, and I had my fun with it for a year, so I did the deal.

 

[Lorenzo]

The Check Engine Light on my beloved 2002 Toyota 4Runner with 234,000 miles is on again. It does this about once a year, and it's always something involving the evap system--which I have no choice but to correct if I want to pass the emissions test. Each time for the past two or three years, I have had it serviced and replaced some part of that system, costing $1,000-$2,000 a year. I love my 4Runner--I have kept it in great condition--and even at $2,000/yr this is costing me way less than a new vehicle, but I can't play this game forever. Is it time to put my old friend out to pasture before I'm stranded somewhere? Replacement parts are getting harder to find. A Ford Maverick pickup would be nice, though I have never really been a car guy, and I've been trying to get a handle on spending during this transitional time from working life to retirement. Maybe I just need to suck it up, as vehicle expense is simply inevitable unless you live a true urban lifestyle. But ... but ... just one more year?

 

[Koolau]

The Check Engine Light on my beloved 2002 Toyota 4Runner with 234,000 miles is on again. It does this about once a year, and it's always something involving the evap system--which I have no choice but to correct if I want to pass the emissions test. Each time for the past two or three years, I have had it serviced and replaced some part of that system, costing $1,000-$2,000 a year. I love my 4Runner--I have kept it in great condition--and even at $2,000/yr this is costing me way less than a new vehicle, but I can't play this game forever. Is it time to put my old friend out to pasture before I'm stranded somewhere? Replacement parts are getting harder to find. A Ford Maverick pickup would be nice, though I have never really been a car guy, and I've been trying to get a handle on spending during this transitional time from working life to retirement. Maybe I just need to suck it up, as vehicle expense is simply inevitable unless you live a true urban lifestyle. But ... but ... just one more year?

Heh, heh, I guess you could move to a state with no emissions testing. Our old '99 CRV had the same problem. IIRC, just the diagnosis of exactly what part of the fuel system was throwing the code would have cost around $800 (it was a process of elimination of over 20 different possibilities IIRC). BUT our state doesn't "care" and we just drove it for 10 years with the "check engine light" gloriously blazing on the dash. Only worry I had was whether something else might have gone wrong (only one "check engine light" so I wouldn't know). So about once a year, at oil change time, I'd have them run the code for free - always the same. Heh, heh, I did break down and change out the gas cap - just on the thought that the simplest answer is sometimes the best answer. It wasn't.

Does your 4Runner throw a code immediately after the code is checked and cancelled? If not, you might buy one of the code check devices, cancel the code just before the emissions test and see if you get away with it. If you don't smell gas around your car, you're not actually polluting anything. Our CRV would go several days without a "light" after each yearly code check. Worth a try??

 

[hopefullyoneday]

Keep what you got, even a engine failure on your current vehicle would be cheaper to fix. The depreciation alone in the first year of new vehicle ownership could get you a new engine. Not to mention the interest for the loan for a new vehicle, plus the higher insurance for a new more expensive vehicle. I understand being bored or wanting something new and if you have throw away money than by all means do it.

 

[Walt34]

If anything happens with the current 2003 4WD GMC pickup I'd have to think long and hard before I write a check for $70k+ for another pickup truck. And still probably not do it, at those prices I think they're just being greedy and I'm not going to pay it. I'd look at the Ford Maverick or similar, or buy something else that will still haul my large but lightweight R/C airplanes. With my back and shoulder issues it's not like I'm going to be throwing heavy weights in the back of a pickup anymore anyway.

 

[Dtail]

Yes, exactly. This is the common "bad" one that causes the CEL to flash/blink. Running for some time with it can cause a lot of trouble.

I'd say you can limp a few miles without problems. DW recently had a blinking CEL on her 17 year old Toyota. She stopped and called me. Since she was only 2 miles away, I told her she could drive home with caution. I was able to pull the codes and identify the misfire. New coil fixed her right up. A very satisfying repair.

My decision tree:
* "Keep Going": solid check engine, ABS, low washer fluid
* "Limp Home (10 miles) with Caution": flashing check engine, TPMS, transmission general
* "Pull Off (1 mile), Evaluate": charging system
* "Stop immediately, Call for Tow": oil pressure, engine/transmission overheat

The coils and inductor issues caused the engine light, but not blinking.
I rode around for 3 weeks with the inductor issue.

 

[aja8888]

If anything happens with the current 2003 4WD GMC pickup I'd have to think long and hard before I write a check for $70k+ for another pickup truck. And still probably not do it, at those prices I think they're just being greedy and I'm not going to pay it. I'd look at the Ford Maverick or similar, or buy something else that will still haul my large but lightweight R/C airplanes. With my back and shoulder issues it's not like I'm going to be throwing heavy weights in the back of a pickup anymore anyway.

Even the Mavericks are getting pricey. I went to look at them. I'll bet you can't get one for under $30 K now.

Ford now made the hybrid engine a $1,500 option and any convenience package brings the truck to $34,000+. And the thing is full of cheap plastic on the interior. I drove one and it wasn't that great, but they sell a lot of them. I also understand the truck has had 8 or so recalls already.

 

[freedomatlast]

Walt, hold onto the 2003 4WD GMC pickup. The torque converters and transmissions in the new Chevy and GMC pickups are absolute junk.

 

[Texas Proud]

Sure, vehicle was a 2023 Camaro 2SS with a rare 6 speed manual transmission in Riverside Blue. I was offered a little over $8000 more than I paid for it a year ago, since they don't make them anymore, and the guy had to have it. He told me he had been looking for a 2SS 6 speed in Riverside Blue for awhile exactly as this one was equipped. I found something else I wanted even more, and I had my fun with it for a year, so I did the deal.

Yea, if you found something you like more of course... why not make $8k..

 

[bada bing]

Yes, exactly. This is the common "bad" one that causes the CEL to flash/blink. Running for some time with it can cause a lot of trouble.

I'd say you can limp a few miles without problems. DW recently had a blinking CEL on her 17 year old Toyota. She stopped and called me. Since she was only 2 miles away, I told her she could drive home with caution. I was able to pull the codes and identify the misfire. New coil fixed her right up. A very satisfying repair.

My decision tree:
* "Keep Going": solid check engine, ABS, low washer fluid
* "Limp Home (10 miles) with Caution": flashing check engine, TPMS, transmission general
* "Pull Off (1 mile), Evaluate": charging system
* "Stop immediately, Call for Tow": oil pressure, engine/transmission overheat

Code readers are so cheap I keep one in the glove box of my old clunkers. I have a 2004 Tundra, 2004 Camry and 2010 Impreza, all of which I'm the original owner. I've had to read and clear maybe 2-3 trivial CEL codes in the last 5 years. One of them was me forgetting to put the gas cap back on after a fill up.

I personally don't put a huge value on "safety improvements" of the last 20 years. A lot of them are electronic stopgaps, with side curtain airbags being the only real "improvement" IMO. JMO, but the basic mechanical quality of a lot of makes has declined from a highwater mark set in the mid 2000's. I have a little angst trading for side curtain airbags and getting a CVT (continuously variable transmission) as part of the package. In the case of cars, everything in the last 20 years hasn't been an improvement.

Walt, hold onto the 2003 4WD GMC pickup. The torque converters and transmissions in the new Chevy and GMC pickups are absolute junk.

Exactly. I'm mostly a Toyota fan. The best Toyotas were built in 2004-2006.

 

[Lorenzo]

Does your 4Runner throw a code immediately after the code is checked and cancelled? If not, you might buy one of the code check devices, cancel the code just before the emissions test and see if you get away with it.

I carry a code reader with me. But to answer your question, the CEL hasn't come back on quite "immediately" the last few times. In fact, the last time it came on it occurred to me that the fault might be with wiring from some sensor back to the computer, so I reset it, drove about 100 miles, got my emissions test done (passed-whew!), and sure enough, maybe 50 miles after that the CEL came back on. The fact that it passed emissions reinforces my suspicion that the fault is in the sensing, not the emissions system. That was just a few weeks ago, and I haven't bothered to read the code. I'll get around to checking it soon. It makes me feel good to know the 4Runner forum has many posts complaining of a similar problem with hard-to-diagnose evap system errors.

 

[Tetto]

I carry a code reader with me. But to answer your question, the CEL hasn't come back on quite "immediately" the last few times. In fact, the last time it came on it occurred to me that the fault might be with wiring from some sensor back to the computer, so I reset it, drove about 100 miles, got my emissions test done (passed-whew!), and sure enough, maybe 50 miles after that the CEL came back on. The fact that it passed emissions reinforces my suspicion that the fault is in the sensing, not the emissions system. That was just a few weeks ago, and I haven't bothered to read the code. I'll get around to checking it soon. It makes me feel good to know the 4Runner forum has many posts complaining of a similar problem with hard-to-diagnose evap system errors.

What’s the error code number? My CRV had a bad knock sensor. I drove it for 3 months before changing the sensor (major PIA) but she’s right as rain now.

 

[HFWR]

If I get ten years or more repair free years, I’ve won the game. The last thing I want is to break down, especially on the Daytona, Talladega, or Bristol Expressway…

 

[RetiredAt55.5]

JMO, but the basic mechanical quality of a lot of makes has declined from a highwater mark set in the mid 2000's. I have a little angst trading for side curtain airbags and getting a CVT (continuously variable transmission) as part of the package. In the case of cars, everything in the last 20 years hasn't been an improvement.


Exactly. I'm mostly a Toyota fan. The best Toyotas were built in 2004-2006.

+1

Too much re-engineering of engines and transmissions (smaller 4 cylinders and turbos), GDI, etc. to get higher EPA numbers. Even Toyota and Honda are having problems. Mazda is one company doing better, but they're still relying (mostly) on their proven 2.5 liter engines and non-CVT transmissions.

 

[TheWizard]

A lot of the answer to the OP's question depends on where you are financially. If you've got plenty of extra money, then upgrade to a new vehicle whenever the voices in your head say to.

I upgraded from a 2008 Mustang to a 2024 Mustang 18 months ago. Old one still ran ok but it was time.

My 2016 F-150, bought new, is still going ok, close to 100k miles. I could upgrade to a new one (cash purchase) but there's no rush. I'll wait until there's a significant reason to buy a new $80,000 vehicle before taking action.

This is how it goes when you have the pleasant combination of adequate finances combined with an element of frugality...

 

[Jerry1]

I personally don't put a huge value on "safety improvements" of the last 20 years. A lot of them are electronic stopgaps, with side curtain airbags being the only real "improvement" IMO.

Maybe more of a convenience than safety feature but one improvement that I’ve really come to appreciate is the rear view (backup) camera and even better with the sensors for oncoming cross traffic.

 

[Koolau]

I carry a code reader with me. But to answer your question, the CEL hasn't come back on quite "immediately" the last few times. In fact, the last time it came on it occurred to me that the fault might be with wiring from some sensor back to the computer, so I reset it, drove about 100 miles, got my emissions test done (passed-whew!), and sure enough, maybe 50 miles after that the CEL came back on. The fact that it passed emissions reinforces my suspicion that the fault is in the sensing, not the emissions system. That was just a few weeks ago, and I haven't bothered to read the code. I'll get around to checking it soon. It makes me feel good to know the 4Runner forum has many posts complaining of a similar problem with hard-to-diagnose evap system errors.

Yay! Passed the test.

 

[Dtail]

Maybe more of a convenience than safety feature but one improvement that I’ve really come to appreciate is the rear view (backup) camera and even better with the sensors for oncoming cross traffic.

Those are my 2 favorites too.