Yet another deck question...

[ArmchairMillionaire]

Looking for suggestions as to what to do with our deck It's sort of L-shaped, 12'X12' with a 6'X6' side leg with one side abutting the house. I think it was built somewhere around 1986 so 40 years ago? I re-stained it back in 2016 or so, and again in 2022. It's definitely showing its age, and we would like it to look nice again. Here's the current state:

There is also a lower section, about 5'X7', which is just treated 2X4s set in the ground with deck boards screwed to them. That part is definitely showing its age, probably due to the salt that gets sprinkled on it during the winter months.

The railing tops are also made of decking material, and those need replacement as well. The main 4X4 posts seem okay, but they're coated with the cedar-tone stain, as is the lattice under the deck.

The stairs look like this:

So should I replace all the deck boards with new pressure-treated lumber? Should I use those new composite deck boards? Should I replace everything but the 4X4s? (I really do not want to replace them) How can I make the 4X4 posts look good with the new decking? If I go composite, will I be able to make the railings look good with all those mitered cuts?

I have lots of tools including a table saw, compound miter saw, jigsaw, a laser level, hammers, prybars, drills, impact drivers, deck-building experience, (I've built one from scratch back in 2017) painting and staining experience, and plenty of time now that I'm retired so I plan on tackling this project myself. Wisconsin statutes say I will need a permit if I replace any of the structural members, but there no state or local rules requiring a permit for deck board replacement. I will call the local office to verify once I have my plans figured out.

Any experiences and suggestions are appreciated and will be considered. Thanks in advance.

 

[old medic]

We rebuilt our deck using the composite boards and hidden fasteners. I was hesitant on the price but would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

[skyking1]

you need to look closely at the stringers for top rot before committing to re-decking the existing framing.
If it is indeed good to go, then prep and cover those stringers to preserve them.
Sand the posts, and it they are wobbly at all you can reinforce them with Simpson DTT2Z deck tension ties.
https://www.strongtie.com/decks_decksandfences/dtt2_tie/p/dtt2

They are a strong solution to deck posts and meet the lateral force requirements.

 

[finnski1]

I'm in the middle of ripping mine all out and redoing it. It's 28 years old and the floorboards are cedar with the rails and balusters made from pressure treated I'm going with composite (Timbertech) because I don't want to resand and refinish it like I have done several times with the wood. Mine totals about 380 sq ft with 2 sets of stairs. You can spend anywhere from $5-$6 per sq ft all the way up to $30 / sq ft or more just for the floorboards. The railings, if going composite or aluminum, can run from $20 to $100 per linear foot as well.
I am fixing a little of the framing and strengthening everything up as well. I hope to not do it again. All in I expect to be in the $8000-$9000 or more range.

 

[pb4uski]

For a moment there I though that you had taken pictures of my deck! What I have learned over the years with two different pressure treated decks is that horizontal surfaces do not hold stain very well.

What we have done for the last few years is to cover it with a polypropolyene mat (outdoor rug).

Like you, I don't care to replace the decking when it structurally sound just to improve the appearance. I did little AI yesterday and it was suggesting a chemical stripper to remove the color, then use deck cleaner (bleach base) then sand and then apply a non-color stain to protect the wood. I have a smaller deck out back that I just apply clear Thompson's Water Seal every couple years and that seems to work well.

It sounds like a lot of work so I'm considering just putting the polyprolyene mat back down. It is sized so it just about covers the entire deck and I screw it down for the season so it doesn't blow around in the wind. It also provides a little padding for the grandchildren (the netting is for the granschildren as well).

 

[jazz4cash]

That deck looks to be in great shape to me, especially considering the age and what appear to be 5/4 deck boards. I'd pressure wash it and put a coat of solid color stain on it. No way I'd replace the boards unless you go composite to get a truly maintenance free result.

 

[ArmchairMillionaire]

We rebuilt our deck using the composite boards and hidden fasteners. I was hesitant on the price but would do it again in a heartbeat.

you need to look closely at the stringers for top rot before committing to re-decking the existing framing.
If it is indeed good to go, then prep and cover those stringers to preserve them.
Sand the posts, and it they are wobbly at all you can reinforce them with Simpson DTT2Z deck tension ties.
https://www.strongtie.com/decks_decksandfences/dtt2_tie/p/dtt2

They are a strong solution to deck posts and meet the lateral force requirements.

Good to know. Thanks.

I'm in the middle of ripping mine all out and redoing it. It's 28 years old and the floorboards are cedar with the rails and balusters made from pressure treated I'm going with composite (Timbertech) because I don't want to resand and refinish it like I have done several times with the wood. Mine totals about 380 sq ft with 2 sets of stairs. You can spend anywhere from $5-$6 per sq ft all the way up to $30 / sq ft or more just for the floorboards. The railings, if going composite or aluminum, can run from $20 to $100 per linear foot as well.
I am fixing a little of the framing and strengthening everything up as well. I hope to not do it again. All in I expect to be in the $8000-$9000 or more range.

Any ideas about how to match the top of the railings? They currently use 5/4 boards with 45º cuts. The corner bench has 45º ends as well. See below:

I see they sell plugs for some composite board ends, but those all look to be for 90º cuts like the edges of the actual deck surface.

For a moment there I though that you had taken pictures of my deck! What I have learned over the years with two different pressure treated decks is that horizontal surfaces do not hold stain very well.

What we have done for the last few years is to cover it with a polypropolyene mat (outdoor rug).

Like you, I don't care to replace the decking when it structurally sound just to improve the appearance. I did little AI yesterday and it was suggesting a chemical stripper to remove the color, then use deck cleaner (bleach base) then sand and then apply a non-color stain to protect the wood. I have a smaller deck out back that I just apply clear Thompson's Water Seal every couple years and that seems to work well.

It sounds like a lot of work so I'm considering just putting the poloprolyene mat back down. It is sized so it just about covers the entire deck and I screw it down for the season so it doesn't blow around in the wind. It also provides a little padding for the grandchildren (the netting is for the granschildren as well).


View attachment 63940
View attachment 63941

Hmmmm. I had thought about outdoor carpeting, but didn't think it would look all that great.

In 2022 I did the whole pressure-wash, deck cleaner, deck primer, and solid color stain, but by 2024-2025 it looked like it needed re-doing again.

That deck looks to be in great shape to me, especially considering the age and what appear to be 5/4 deck boards. I'd pressure wash it and put a coat of solid color stain on it. No way I'd replace the boards unless you go composite to get a truly maintenance free result.

I stomped around out there today, bounced on the benches, and leaned on all the railings and everything seemed pretty solid other than the lower section that's just set into the ground. That one's going to need new treated 2X4s under the deck boards as well. DW thinks we should bite the bullet and replace the decking with composite boards, but I'm curious as to how to finish those railing toppers and also what to do for those vertical slat pieces.

 

[zinger1457]

Most of the composite deck manufacturers sell railing kits that match their decking. Installing the composite decking is fairly easy, especially if you already have the joist structure installed, it's in good shape, and properly spaced (16" minimum). To cover the deck ends you would normally frame the outside edge with special decking boards that have a square edge instead of a slot, at least that's how I did mine.

 

[WhenIsItTime]

After FIRE, I took on 3 decks areas totaling 1k sq ft. I chose to use Ipe (Brazilian hardwood, very dense and thus naturally weather resistant) for the experience. Front deck shows how it looks cleaned up with oil. Other deck is when I was finishing assembly prior to oil. You can see slight difference in age of natural boards. Ipe turns silver if you let it go natural. Advantage of Ipe is that with a nominal 1", net 3/4" board you can span 16" with no bounce. If you use synthetic, best practice is 12" joist span. That is often a problem for folks converting from treated wood. Admittedly, IPE is one of more expensive options.

Railing is by Key-Link. Easy to install. Very clean result. Takes planning for post bracing/spacing.

 

[Koolau]

That deck looks to be in great shape to me, especially considering the age and what appear to be 5/4 deck boards. I'd pressure wash it and put a coat of solid color stain on it. No way I'd replace the boards unless you go composite to get a truly maintenance free result.

Yep. When we moved in to our last place that already had a deck, it looked awful. Much worse than your deck. We lived there 10 years and never touched the deck - we rarely used it. When we were getting ready to sell, we pressure washed it and, miracle of miracles, it "came back" and looked "pretty good." We stained it and sold the place for our price.

 

[Surewhitey]

+1 on the 12" joist spacing. The synthetic stuff is usually very flexible and you'll have bounce in your step.

I'd look at flipping the existing boards and look at the condition of the other side. The only thing not great for doing this is the possibility of the "cup up" of the boards if they were installed "cup down" to start. Use new screws of course. If you go with new, treated, natural boards, let them dry before staining. I prefer to pre-drill the new screws to lessen splitting. Super easy if you have 2 drills / drivers.

Railings will be a new board project, likely.

Having a rug on your deck can cause water trap or fading of stain in those areas imo... I'd steer clear of that if not a covered deck.

 

[EastWest Gal]

I think deciding on deck material depends on the environment in which your deck lives. Ours is exposed to the hot sun in the afternoon., and Trex would be too hot. Also, some composite decking is made with sawdust mixed with a polymer, and can swell with moisture exposure. We chose hardwood-cumuru, which needs frequent restaining, but is very long lasting. It has darkened over the years, but the deck is in great shape 12 years later.

Your deck appears to be in great shape, actually. You could do well with a sanding and restaining. Check out deckstainhelp.com if you decide to go that route. They have all kinds of recommendations, how to's, videos, and a forum.

 

[ArmchairMillionaire]

I'd look at flipping the existing boards and look at the condition of the other side. The only thing not great for doing this is the possibility of the "cup up" of the boards if they were installed "cup down" to start. Use new screws of course. If you go with new, treated, natural boards, let them dry before staining.

I looked into flipping the boards, but around 15 of them can't be flipped due to being notched for the perimeter 4X4 posts or having 45º cuts. I counted the boards, and I'd need about 38 new 12' lengths for the entire surface + railings. At $10.08 per 12' deck board, for around $400, I could have all new pressure-treated boards.

Not sure if I'd want the 'bounce' of composite boards with my 16" spacing. Something else to consider...

I think deciding on deck material depends on the environment in which your deck lives. Ours is exposed to the hot sun in the afternoon., and Trex would be too hot. Also, some composite decking is made with sawdust mixed with a polymer, and can swell with moisture exposure. We chose hardwood-cumuru, which needs frequent restaining, but is very long lasting. It has darkened over the years, but the deck is in great shape 12 years later.

Your deck appears to be in great shape, actually. You could do well with a sanding and restaining. Check out deckstainhelp.com if you decide to go that route. They have all kinds of recommendations, how to's, videos, and a forum.

I think I went to that deckstainhelp site back in 2022 the last time I re-stained the deck. Bought all the special cleaners, pressure-washed, prepped, primed and stained per their (and Home Depot's) instructions. Two years later, it started peeling already. Now, after four years, it needs to be completely re-done again.

 

[Zathras]

We love our timbertech decking.
However, I also hate DIY and/ low maintenance is king (IMO).
Never noticed any bounce. Mitered joints were no issue as the decking we used was the same color all the way through.

12 years of zero maintenance, no surprises or even wear showing.
We recently renovated, removing most of the deck. The removed decking has been reused to make a new deck.
We reused some of it to make a short stairs leading up to the new office

I stripped, sanded and resealed/stained a deck once. Never again, I have better things to spend my time and energy on.

 

[jazz4cash]

Good to know. Thanks.

Any ideas about how to match the top of the railings? They currently use 5/4 boards with 45º cuts. The corner bench has 45º ends as well. See below:

View attachment 63942

I see they sell plugs for some composite board ends, but those all look to be for 90º cuts like the edges of the actual deck surface.

Hmmmm. I had thought about outdoor carpeting, but didn't think it would look all that great.

In 2022 I did the whole pressure-wash, deck cleaner, deck primer, and solid color stain, but by 2024-2025 it looked like it needed re-doing again.

I stomped around out there today, bounced on the benches, and leaned on all the railings and everything seemed pretty solid other than the lower section that's just set into the ground. That one's going to need new treated 2X4s under the deck boards as well. DW thinks we should bite the bullet and replace the decking with composite boards, but I'm curious as to how to finish those railing toppers and also what to do for those vertical slat pieces.

Newer composite decks seem to use the square-ish interior style top railing but I see youtube videos using pocket screws/Kreg jig to create the miter joint

 

[finnski1]

My framing is in excellent shape so won't have to replace that! Will do all new stair boards and railings/balusters. May leave the railings off the main floor just because we like the look and can always add those later. The floorboards are 28-year-old cedar. Many actually in reasonable shape if they were under a roof. The exposed ones were getting pretty dried out, cracked rotted etc. It was time. The framing, railings and balusters are all pressure treated. Tired of scraping restaining etc. Plan to put on a new front door as well and touching up the house siding stain.

 

[Music Lover]

I've never been a fan of staining decks as it becomes an ongoing maintenance issue. Thankfully we both like the weathered grey look so we just put down pressure treated and leave it alone.

If it was my deck I'd just replace the top deck boards with new and replace the old railing with a nicer looking metal one.

 

[sengsational]

I tore off the 2x6 deck boards, added joists (most were 24", so made it mostly 12") and put on composite. Had to buy a planer to get the joists even.

For railings, I did 4x4 posts, 2x4 rails joined with pocket screws. Posts covered with PVC sleeves, and rails covered with 1/2 sleeve (ripped on the table saw). Looks nice, and it was much cheaper than the railing kits. Then multiple strands of horizontal 1/8 steel cable. It's nice because you can see through it. I bought left and right threaded wood screw to cable things on Amazon, and the crimping tool. There were a LOT of cable to add, but it went pretty quick .

 

[pb4uski]

For a moment there I though that you had taken pictures of my deck! What I have learned over the years with two different pressure treated decks is that horizontal surfaces do not hold stain very well.

What we have done for the last few years is to cover it with a polypropolyene mat (outdoor rug).

Like you, I don't care to replace the decking when it structurally sound just to improve the appearance. I did little AI yesterday and it was suggesting a chemical stripper to remove the color, then use deck cleaner (bleach base) then sand and then apply a non-color stain to protect the wood. I have a smaller deck out back that I just apply clear Thompson's Water Seal every couple years and that seems to work well.

It sounds like a lot of work so I'm considering just putting the polyprolyene mat back down. It is sized so it just about covers the entire deck and I screw it down for the season so it doesn't blow around in the wind. It also provides a little padding for the grandchildren (the netting is for the granschildren as well).


View attachment 63940
View attachment 63941

After further thought, I'm considering renting a floor drum sander and sanding the deck aggressively down to bare wood and then a clear product like Thompson's Water Seal every couple years. Not maintenance free but low cost and would look a lot better.

 

[ArmchairMillionaire]

After further thought, I'm considering renting a floor drum sander and sanding the deck aggressively down to bare wood and then a clear product like Thompson's Water Seal every couple years. Not maintenance free but low cost and would look a lot better.

View attachment 63993

I thought about renting one of those. But in my neck of the woods it's only $40/day.

 

[GBcycling]

After further thought, I'm considering renting a floor drum sander and sanding the deck aggressively down to bare wood and then a clear product like Thompson's Water Seal every couple years. Not maintenance free but low cost and would look a lot better.

View attachment 63993

I used one a few years ago and was satisfied with result. Extended life by 5 years. Just replaced with new upgraded pressure treated last year. Will sell the home sooner and did not want to invest in composite at time

 

[folivier]

I need to stain my deck this summer at our cabin in Colorado. It only gets sun during part of the day but is covered with snow in the winter.
Stained it with some latex the seller left, big mistake. So now I'm thinking of using an oil based stain. I know it's messy but should last longer.
BTW thanks to skyking1 for mentioning the strong tie tension ties. My front porch is pulling away from the posts and these should be perfect for bringing it back in line.

 

[zinger1457]

I tore off the 2x6 deck boards, added joists (most were 24", so made it mostly 12") and put on composite. Had to buy a planer to get the joists even.

Had to plane some of the joist with my deck also, almost impossible to find straight lumber, especially for longer 12' joist. I wouldn't worry about 16" joist spacing as long as the decking is installed straight across and not at an angle. That's the joist spacing for my deck and there is no sagging at all, very solid.

 

[Slim11]

After further thought, I'm considering renting a floor drum sander and sanding the deck aggressively down to bare wood and then a clear product like Thompson's Water Seal every couple years. Not maintenance free but low cost and would look a lot better.

View attachment 63993

This is how the old timers did it. And the decks lasted longer. To easy to spread out the wood fibers with a prssure washer. Sand and re paint/ solad stain it. It dosnt look that bad.

 

[ransil]

I used this stuff on concrete and wood decks in the past, deck looked like yours.
power wash and 2 coats covers good, no bleed thru from old coating.

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