Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

Just got through putting new carpet in my jon boat. I have owned this boat since 1987 and have recarpeted it twice. This time I used a better quality of carpet and I went back to the original color from when I first bought it. It took four 8 hour days to complete. But it did turn out super nice.
 
Music Lover said:
There's normally a solid header above windows and doors. Were the supplied screws so short that they didn't bite into the wood behind the drywall?
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They probably did. However, the short and bitty L brackets bend, plus the drywall may also get compressed under the load.
 
So, DW noticed that there was a small leak in the water line coming into the house... I looked at it and was worried... could not get a plumber out during the weekend even though they advertise 24/7...

When he cut the pipe to start replacing it the pipe into the house fell to the ground!! It broke off the threads inside the connection.. he did not have an extraction tool but I let him use mine...

Replaced the pipe with PEX... said they do not use PVC anymore.... hope it lasts!! Also changed out a very old faucet...

A reasonable $225 IMO..
 
They still use PVC for drain lines but not for supply lines. That price seems very reasonable.
 
Just replaced the back window in my 2002 F150. It took most of a day but now I won't have water getting into the cab every time it pours rain.
 
On my 1986 GE Hotpoint dishwasher, the detergent dispenser door would not latch (when closing it) anymore. Googled it and found out that the door is supposed to open during the second cycle, and let the detergent fall into the water (6 cycles with this machine).

So I did a hack, not a repair. I just let it run for 5 minutes, and it goes through the first cycle, and pumps out the dirty wash water, then I open the big regular dishwasher door, toss the detergent into the hot water in the bottom, and close her up again, relatch, and let it go through cycles 2 through 6. No water comes out when opening the big door. It stays in the bottom.

Easy, and no parts to buy and no parts to break when 'fixing' it, lol. 🙂
 
John Galt III said:
So I did a hack, not a repair. I just let it run for 5 minutes, and it goes through the first cycle, and pumps out the dirty wash water, then I open the big regular dishwasher door, toss the detergent into the hot water in the bottom, and close her up again, relatch, and let it go through cycles 2 through 6.
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Not sure I understand. Your plan is to do this every time the dishwasher runs?
 
Pointby2 said:
Not sure I understand. Your plan is to do this every time the dishwasher runs?
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Correct! Start dw, come back in 5 min, after first cycle, toss in detergent, close it up, and then go about my day. Not a big inconvenience for me. ;)
 
Maintenance rather than repair, I cleaned the 2 outside condensers and 3 inside evaporators on my FL place. Mini splits which work very well. I haven't cleaned the outside condensers for a couple years, so it was good to do that. I do clean the inside evaporators each year, evaporator and the housing and filter which get a lot more dust than outside. I use a foaming HVAC coil cleaner, two versions, then rinse with water; hose spray for outside, and just a light spray from a sprayer inside. This is what I used, got them both on Amazon. The blue one is for outside, and the green one for inside. I know the green one can be used for both, but the blue one is about half the price.
20260404_132706.jpg
 
It is NOT worth it for me to have to come back to throw in dishwasher soap...

I would spring for the new door.. cannot be that expensive...
 
I guess this is a common issue. Our three way switch hasn't worked since we swapped out our old switches to the new toggle switches. (20 years ago!) We've tried and failed before but today we finally fixed it! ChatGPT was a failure, but we found a YouTube video that was just perfect.
1775338789108.png

We also fixed our outdoor switch that fell out of the wall. That one was easy, just needed longer screws!
 
Our water heater is in the garage, a couple days ago in the morning, my wife came in a said the water heater is leaking. I went to Lowes and picked one up, the original was 40"tall and 20" in dia. Of course they only had one 42-1/4" tall. I had to cut both pipes and eliminate 2-1/4". Had to solder about four 3/4" copper pipe joints, The key is clean, clean, clean, I had no leaks. Also along with being to tall, the T&P valve was on the top, pointed to where it wouldn't work for me. So, I removed the plug on the side and swapped the T&P valve to the side. Nope, the top T&P valve is much longer for the top than for the side. So, I had to reverse everything I just did. In the end I got it all in place and working.
 
Texas Proud said:
It is NOT worth it for me to have to come back to throw in dishwasher soap...

I would spring for the new door.. cannot be that expensive...
Click to expand...
I think wires got crossed somehow. We can credit Texas Proud with the quote.

John Galt III said:
sengsational said:
It is NOT worth it for me to have to come back to throw in dishwasher soap...

I would spring for the new door.. cannot be that expensive...
Click to expand...
I only use the dishwasher once every 3 months or so, so it's not a big inconvenience for me. My standard thing is to wash dishes in the sink by hand.
Click to expand...
 
Finally I failed. Shoot. I have an older electric lawnmower that has been pretty good, but you always want the more powerful model... but when it failed to run I was sure I could fix this with youtube as my friend.

Most likely cause - 50 amp ceramic breaker (this has a two week delivery on amazon, so I hoped it wasn't this - It checked out ok!

Next 2 causes - a stuck switch on the handle extension or the handle lever - both relatively hard to get too, but they were ok - oh did I mention you need a #20 torx long handled screwdriver? I now have a new set from Home Depot...

Might be a crimped wire but if not it's a circuit board... In looking for a loose wire I had the battery in - of course I shorted out the system and blew the 50 amp fuse ()*&&*^&^%$.

Well now I have the more powerful mower from Ace Hardware and new set of long handled torx screwdrivers..... and I choose to believe it was the circuit board.
 
The bedroom slide on our 5th wheel decided it did not want to retract. I could hear the hydraulic pump working which gradually slowed down if I held the switch on. As that slide is the furthest from the pump, I figured the fluid reservoir could be low - it was. Added fluid and it still didn't work while the pump sounded like it was not running at full speed. Checked the battery and found 12.75v at the terminals but only about 9v on the cables. Got out the trusty wire brush, cleaned the terminals and cables and now it works. Mobile RV techs here charge $85 to show up and $145/hr so I saved a few $$.
 
Not sure if you'd call it a repair, but our tenant asked to nail a 2x4 to the side of the building to keep his dog from escaping through a gap by the gate. To quote Bush (senior), "Not gonna do it," but we're sympathetic to the issue.

So, I found a piece of 4x4 scrap (redwood) that I painted to match the trim. I attached it to the house with 8" structural screws through 3/4" aluminum spacers to keep it off the siding and added a steel cap and back stop to the post to further secure the gate.

My better-half said it's just more evidence that I'm a perfectionist.
 
The 30 year old top-load washing machine quit doing it's thing this morning. Symptoms indicated a lid switch issue, so I soldered a jumper, which got it running again, and ordered the part. $8. Not done yet, but we have clean sheets :)
 
Well, the 80s original toilet decided to 'take a leak'... the valve in the toilet would not shut off and the water level was at the handle level and it leaked out just a bit... but toilet kept running... most of the water went down the tube...

So, was turning off the water and... the valve would not turn off!!! Got out my channel lock and turned it where I thought was off... nope, still leaked and filled up the tank in 4 or so hours.. more water on the floor... finally opened the flapper and just let it drain...

Replaced the whole shebang.... and when they took the toilet up the old flange was rusted out... more money... and THEN the plumber said there was 'hollow' in the concrete and he could not anchor the new flange so had to go to the store to get something else...

WHEW... finally it was installed and I am out $840...
 
Have to get both outdoor freeze-proof faucets replaced, as well as two or three sets of indoor shutoff valves (failed, as above) replaced - all 25 yo and not a chance I'm going to make that my first plumbing project.
 
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