As a kid I was a skateboard nut, and spent every summer in my teen years waterskiing, Nowadays I windsurf 2 or 3 times every summer, actually thought that I was getting pretty good until we went on vacation to a funky little town in the Dominican Republic called Cabarete (pretty humbling) Also tried snowboarding once. I was told that I did fairly well for someone that had never had a lesson, but gawd was I sore afterwards.
Well, heck, with that experience you'll be stand-up surfing in about 10 minutes. Seriously.
I've never snowboarded but I'm told that snowboarding puts the weight on the front foot and carves the edges. When you surf you'll put your weight on the rear foot and carve.
Kelly Slater credits much of his technique to crappy little Florida waves and a lot of time on a skateboard.
Its been some time since I was at Oahu, but I do remember taking a trip to a place called Sunshine beach or Sunset beach. Since you're into surfing, you probably know where I'm talking about. Those waves were so huge and powerful that I'd almost have to class them as surreal. Then I saw some guys actually surfing on these things. There have got to be a ton of fatalities in that sport when you get to that level. I also remember seeing some kids that would wait on shore with these little boards and actually ride the receding water. That looked like a blast.
Yep, Sunset. At that wave height a lot of guys wear helmets (or should) and the lifeguards only let you in the water if they know you. It's not so much the wave as it is your head getting slammed into the reef or being held under for 2-3 minutes while you've totally lost your orientation.
The wave-height limit of paddle-in surfing is about 30 feet; a bigger wave moves too fast for a surfer to paddle fast enough to drop into it. (I think that speed is at least 35 MPH.) I think the record tow-in wave is still a 68-footer but a surfer is killed every 1-2 years in the attempt. Part of the problem is that sponsors are paying people to take these insane risks and some of it is just overconfidence.
My motto is "nothing over 16 feet". I've looked over the lip and I've seen enough...
Hey speaking of waves Nords, since you are from the Aloha state, do you happen to know if this video is real, and if real, did this guy actually live through this wave.
This blew my mind when I saw it
Struck in tsunami
It's a "typical" tow-in wave; this one looks to be be about 40 feet. He probably fought his way to the surface shortly after the video stopped. I don't know who it is, when, or where-- Ronin? JB? Anyone else know?
BTW there are also prizes for "best wipeout". It's a lot harder to survive a wipeout than it is to get through a tow-in ride when the wave overtakes you from behind. For example, here's Flea Virostko "dropping in" during the 2004 Eddie Aikau: