Anyone Added Internet to CATV?

[kaneohe]

We currently have CATV w/ Comcast? Considering a free trial period to try their internet in addition to the CATV. It is advertised as plug and play......meaning, I assume, they send parts, you hook up and supposedly it works. Never have had internet w/ them, never have had a router or modem which as of now are just words to me.

Wondering whether I can do it myself and if it will work for our purposes.....which is a good reasonably fast connection and wifi connection inside the house.

Here are some rambling thoughts, assumptions based on a little reading. Welcome corrections to help educate me.......

1) I'm assuming the CATV and internet are separate functions coming in on the same cable and accessed separately by splitting the signal with a splitter? 2)Then the CATV can work as it is now while I try to figure out the internet stuff? that is, the CATV should work regardless of problems on the internet side......so one of the splitter outputs goes to the CATV box.
3)The other side of the splitter outputs goes to the modem/wireless router
(also called wireless gateway if an integrated unit).
4) It is not clear to me how you educate the modem/wireless router that a variety of devices.....mac, ipad (perhaps an extender)......want to be connected so I will have to figure that out.
5) Is is likely that the provided modem/router (or wireless gateway) will have enough power for wifi in other rooms? If not, I can use the same extender that is used outside to capture the city wifi signal so we can access the city wifi
inside the house?

Any other issues I should be concerned with? Is there anything special about the splitter (seems to be called splitter box on some sites). Comcast may send one (?) but I also have an old one labelled UHF/VHF splitter that I got a while back when thought of hooking up a second TV in another room (but never did
..........perhaps it would have needed a second CATV box to have worked?).

 

[frayne]

Just my two cents. I have been a Comcast customer both TV and internet for the last ten years with little to no problems. A couple of suggestions though, have them run a dedicated cable for your internet. I also own both my modem and router as opposed to renting them from Comcast. I use Apple products exclusively, Mac mini, Mac Book, iPads, iPhone, etc. Getting everything to work was easy as compared to using the Microsoft generic type products.

 

[MichaelB]

+1. Even with Microsoft compatible products it is pretty easy to set up yourself. You don't need Comcast to do it and you don't want to rent their mediocre modem / router.

1) I'm assuming the CATV and internet are separate functions coming in on the same cable and accessed separately by splitting the signal with a splitter?

yup

2)Then the CATV can work as it is now while I try to figure out the internet stuff? that is, the CATV should work regardless of problems on the internet side......so one of the splitter outputs goes to the CATV box.

yup

3)The other side of the splitter outputs goes to the modem/wireless router (also called wireless gateway if an integrated unit).

yup

4) It is not clear to me how you educate the modem/wireless router that a variety of devices.....mac, ipad (perhaps an extender)......want to be connected so I will have to figure that out.

All you need to do is give your network a name and secure password, then with each device, look up that network and log in.

5) Is is likely that the provided modem/router (or wireless gateway) will have enough power for wifi in other rooms? If not, I can use the same extender that is used outside to capture the city wifi signal so we can access the city wifi inside the house?

Maybe. distance can be an issue, so can certain types of building materials inside the house. Clapboard and drywall are easier than cement and coated glass.

 

[GrayHare]

Yes to questions 1, 2, 3, and 5. About 4, it's not so much that you educate the router as you do the devices. In general you immediately configure the router as you wish (change the default password, for example) then tell the devices info about the router so they can see it and connect.

 

[Ronstar]

We have essentially the same setup, but we have the phone, tv, Internet bundle. Didn't work too well at first. Usually a modem problem, once an animal chewed through the outside cable line. It's now been working fine for years.

1. You are correct. Cable comes into house to a splitter. One line to the modem, one line to tv. I also have a booster after the splitter for the tv.

2. As far as I know, your tv should work fine without the internet. The modem is connected after being split, so it's really 2 separate lines after the splitter. I have had my internet go out while still having tv working.

3. The internet coax coming out of the splitter goes to the modem then to the router. I have Comcast dvr on our main tv, so my tv line is split to 2 other tv's and to the main tv through the Comcast dvr box, then HDMI to the tv, and and another line out to the receiver.

4. I have an Apple AirPort Extreme router and I don't remember any problems in setup. It kind of set itself up.

5. You'll need a separate router. I have (I rent) a Comcast modem, but have my own Apple extreme router. I have the modem close to my utility panel where the cable comes into the house. Then I have about a 30' Ethernet cable between the modem and my router that I set up in my entertainment center in the middle of the house. I have good wifi everywhere but outside. You should be ok unless your house is huge. Then an extender should work.

Nothing special about the splitter. I do have a separate box for each of 2 other tv's, one hd, one not, so you may need boxes for each tv unless you run them as video out from your main tv.

Good luck! Everything should work fine.


Sent from my iPad using Early Retirement Forum

 

[target2019]

I have dealt with Comcast at least twenty years. The persistent problem is customer support. It is always your equipment, router, devices, etc. It rarely has been, though.
I have probably had over fifty devices in the twenty years, including PCs and Macs, Android, Linux, iPhone. There is no difficulty setting things up wireless or wired. I've had problems with Apple devices, and with some wireless devices.
First, connection problems may be difficult due to competing devices and signal interference. So long as signal is strong and you are within range, it will work well.
The password is on the Comcast router.

 

[kaneohe]

Thanks all for the useful and informative responses. Looking forward to this as a learning experience. Wondering now if you experience "loading" degradation in wifi speed when others are also using the system...........or is cable immune to this?

 

[walkinwood]

I've used comcast internet for years starting with @home which comcast acquired. Speed is good and it is quite reliable. In the early years, speed would suffer as more customers were added near your home, but I haven't noticed that for years.

Start with their equipment so you can give yourself time to learn, but you can save a few bucks a month by owning your cable modem/router. Here's a list of approved cable modems. I use an older Motorola SB6120 which works just fine, and I have a separate wifi router.

DOCSIS Devices

 

[niven]

Nothing special about the splitter.

Not quite true - the splitter typically has to handle frequencies up to 1GHz, or even up to 2GHz, depending on the frequencies used by your cable provider. Some cheap or older splitters are rated lower, and may cause problems.

 

[kaneohe]

Not quite true - the splitter typically has to handle frequencies up to 1GHz, or even up to 2GHz, depending on the frequencies used by your cable provider. Some cheap or older splitters are rated lower, and may cause problems.

Thanks for info.......old one I have is labelelled VHF/UHF. Looks like UHF goes to 1 GHz so might be marginal. Hope Comcast provides that then.

 

[FUEGO]

I have internet through our local cable provider (Time Warner) but no CATV. Works well in general. We bought our own modem for $30 or so (needs to be upgraded every few years as speeds go up) to skip the $5-10/mo modem rental fees. We are so far in the money I could buy a case of modems with the savings over the years.

Speeds are 50 mbit down, 5 mbit up (pretty much all you need unless you're doing something out of the ordinary) for $40/month ($35 if you ask for a discount).

We had the first issue in a while recently and after a few troubleshooting phone calls they came out, replaced the main line coming in from the street and we seem to have a solid connection once again. Most likely that old line was nicked at some point. The tech they sent out was extremely well versed in all the technical issues around high speed internet, modems, lines and possible interference causes, electrical grounding methods, etc. Not used to that from the cable guy in the past (this guy was training someone else, so I suspect this dude was part of their A team that performs well).

In sum, everyone loves to hate the cable company but they provide a reasonably high quality service at a decent price.

YMMV of course, because Time Warner is competing with AT&T gigabit fiber at $70/mo and gigabit google fiber also suspected to be priced at $70/mo (not installed in my 'hood yet). Maybe they are being especially competent to compete and stay extant.

 

[ERD50]

OP - can you tell us how you are set up now - that might help explain what might be different?

Recently, I helped DD get set up with Comcast at her rental. $19.99 for 10Mbps speed (she didn't get TV, gets enough with OTA and streaming).

Comacast wanted $10/month for their combo gateway ('modem') / router. She had a router already, so we bought this 'Comcast approved' gateway:

Zoom - DOCSIS 3.0 High-Speed Cable Modem - Black $50.99
Model: 5345-00-03SKU: 4379900

https://goo.gl/BuQIqL

No trouble with initial set up and authorization, just follow the simple directions on the box, the Comcast intro page comes up, enter your account details and all is good. We did this with her computer wired to the Ethernet port on the gateway.

But when we plugged in her router (Netgear WGR614), we could not access the internet. Turns out Comcast does "MAC Filtering" - they expect to see the same hardware connected that you authorized with (the computer's Machine Access Code).

Simple, common fix for this so don't let it scare you if you are unfamiliar with these terms. I can walk you through it if needed, but basically you find the MAC address of the computer, and then go to a set up page on the router, and tell it to use that MAC instead of the router's own (this is called MAC cloning). Everything worked fine after that.

So for a $50 investment, she's saving $10/month in Comcast box rental fee.

-ERD50

 

[kaneohe]

OP - can you tell us how you are set up now - that might help explain what might be different?

Recently, I helped DD get set up with Comcast at her rental. $19.99 for 10Mbps speed (she didn't get TV, gets enough with OTA and streaming).

Comacast wanted $10/month for their combo gateway ('modem') / router. She had a router already, so we bought this 'Comcast approved' gateway:

Zoom - DOCSIS 3.0 High-Speed Cable Modem - Black $50.99
Model: 5345-00-03SKU: 4379900

https://goo.gl/BuQIqL

No trouble with initial set up and authorization, just follow the simple directions on the box, the Comcast intro page comes up, enter your account details and all is good. We did this with her computer wired to the Ethernet port on the gateway.

But when we plugged in her router (Netgear WGR614), we could not access the internet. Turns out Comcast does "MAC Filtering" - they expect to see the same hardware connected that you authorized with (the computer's Machine Access Code).

Simple, common fix for this so don't let it scare you if you are unfamiliar with these terms. I can walk you through it if needed, but basically you find the MAC address of the computer, and then go to a set up page on the router, and tell it to use that MAC instead of the router's own (this is called MAC cloning). Everything worked fine after that.

So for a $50 investment, she's saving $10/month in Comcast box rental fee.

-ERD50

OP here......we have CATV only......cable runs to CATV box, then DVD, then TV.. Internet is via city wifi thru extender to boost signal, then to computers
(Mac and IPad). Hoping to get both CATV and wifi from Comcast and wondering about setup required. CATV cable comes into one bedroom where use is. Other major use is in family room which is separated from that bedroom by living room and hallway about 40 ft away. Don't know if I can use a modem/router in the bedroom and receive wifi in the family room; or do I put the router in the living room (which is in the middle) and connect to modem w/ cable, or Prefer connection to computers to be wireless but don't know what will be required to get that and good reception. The muni wifi is very varied in performance ......from great to non-existent ......so that's what we're trying to improve upon.

 

[MichaelB]

Thanks all for the useful and informative responses. Looking forward to this as a learning experience. Wondering now if you experience "loading" degradation in wifi speed when others are also using the system...........or is cable immune to this?

Broadband cable is a shared load. There is a fixed total available amount for the neighborhood or service area where you live, and when everyone is online you might suffer a noticeable decline in service level. This definitely is the case for us in South Florida. Comcast is continuously upgrading, and it's not easy to know beforehand how or if this will affect you.

 

[ERD50]

OP here......we have CATV only......cable runs to CATV box, then DVD, then TV.. Internet is via city wifi thru extender to boost signal, then to computers
(Mac and IPad). Hoping to get both CATV and wifi from Comcast and wondering about setup required. CATV cable comes into one bedroom where use is. Other major use is in family room which is separated from that bedroom by living room and hallway about 40 ft away. Don't know if I can use a modem/router in the bedroom and receive wifi in the family room; or do I put the router in the living room (which is in the middle) and connect to modem w/ cable, or Prefer connection to computers to be wireless but don't know what will be required to get that and good reception. The muni wifi is very varied in performance ......from great to non-existent ......so that's what we're trying to improve upon.

OK, that helps a lot. Do you connect to your 'booster/extender' wirelessly now (I assume so)?

It sounds like the cable coming in is at only one point, the bedroom, and that is the only place you watch TV? If so, I'd try to first just connect the new modem/gateway with splitter at the bedroom with the wireless router nearby. If you get good wifi everywhere, leave well enough alone.

If wifi isn't strong enough where you need it, I think you have two options (maybe someone else can comment on pros/cons of each):

1) run a co-ax cable from the splitter to the living room, connect the modem/gateway and wireless router at the living room.

2) keep the modem/gateway at the bedroom, and run an Ethernet cable to the living room, and connect the wireless router to that Ethernet cable.

I'm not sure if running co-ax or Ethernet is preferable, or maybe no real difference? I guess I'd prefer to have the router and gateway co-located for easy access to both and see all the lights if you need to reboot or anything?

-ERD50

 

[kaneohe]

Quest

OK, that helps a lot. Do you connect to your 'booster/extender' wirelessly now (I assume so)?

It sounds like the cable coming in is at only one point, the bedroom, and that is the only place you watch TV? If so, I'd try to first just connect the new modem/gateway with splitter at the bedroom with the wireless router nearby. If you get good wifi everywhere, leave well enough alone.

If wifi isn't strong enough where you need it, I think you have two options (maybe someone else can comment on pros/cons of each):

1) run a co-ax cable from the splitter to the living room, connect the modem/gateway and wireless router at the living room.

2) keep the modem/gateway at the bedroom, and run an Ethernet cable to the living room, and connect the wireless router to that Ethernet cable.

I'm not sure if running co-ax or Ethernet is preferable, or maybe no real difference? I guess I'd prefer to have the router and gateway co-located for easy access to both and see all the lights if you need to reboot or anything?

-ERD50

yes,you are correct on your assumptions on current set up. Thanks for the suggestions; interesting thought about keeping the 2 units to be able to monitor them more easily.

Question on terminology.....I was familiar with the terms modem and router tho didn't really understand what each did. The term gateway is new to me but I had the impression that it was a combo modem/router in one package. I had been thinking it might be better to have separate units for flexibility in placement but perhaps it doesn't matter where the modem is.? just the router or the gateway if both are combined in one unit.

 

[ERD50]

....

Question on terminology.....I was familiar with the terms modem and router tho didn't really understand what each did. The term gateway is new to me but I had the impression that it was a combo modem/router in one package. I had been thinking it might be better to have separate units for flexibility in placement but perhaps it doesn't matter where the modem is.? just the router or the gateway if both are combined in one unit.

Sorry, I just learned I was confusing things myself - I actually thought that cable 'modems' were not modems (stands for modulate-demodulate, which is what our old telephone dial-up beep-squeak-squawk-hiss boxes did). I thought the cable boxes were digital in/out, and the term 'modem' was used out of habit. But I guess it turns out they do actually use a modulated carrier, so are actual 'modems', so forget my 'gateway' term.

There might be an advantage to a combo unit. We already had a router that seems to work fine (I have at least three of them scattered across family members), so I didn't even look at those. But one less Ethernet cable, one less power supply and cable.

Just make sure it is on the 'approved list' (I found it on Comcast's web site, but it might be specific to the service in your area code?

-ERD50

 

[cathy63]

OP here......we have CATV only......cable runs to CATV box, then DVD, then TV.. Internet is via city wifi thru extender to boost signal, then to computers
(Mac and IPad). Hoping to get both CATV and wifi from Comcast and wondering about setup required. CATV cable comes into one bedroom where use is. Other major use is in family room which is separated from that bedroom by living room and hallway about 40 ft away. Don't know if I can use a modem/router in the bedroom and receive wifi in the family room; or do I put the router in the living room (which is in the middle) and connect to modem w/ cable, or Prefer connection to computers to be wireless but don't know what will be required to get that and good reception. The muni wifi is very varied in performance ......from great to non-existent ......so that's what we're trying to improve upon.

If the distance you're trying to cover is only 40 feet, you should be able to put the modem/router in the bedroom and get coverage in the living room. (I'm assuming the interior walls in your home are not concrete or steel.) If you can "see" a neighbor's wifi network throughout your home on your iPad, then that's a good indication that your own network would be accessible in all your rooms.

 

[kaneohe]

If the distance you're trying to cover is only 40 feet, you should be able to put the modem/router in the bedroom and get coverage in the living room. (I'm assuming the interior walls in your home are not concrete or steel.) If you can "see" a neighbor's wifi network throughout your home on your iPad, then that's a good indication that your own network would be accessible in all your rooms.

Thanks for this info.....sounds encouraging so far.....I can "see" various other networks........

 

[target2019]

Thanks for this info.....sounds encouraging so far.....I can "see" various other networks........

Keep in mind that all of the WAPs (Wireless Access Points) you are seeing have channels which assign a frequency range to the router radio. The channels may be set to auto, or may be fixed.

You ordinarily don't have a way of "seeing" all the possible interference of neighbors. Ok, you do have a signal strength you see, but you're not quite sure how it impacts your signal specifically. There are software tools that give you more information, and show you graphically what channel everyone is on. It is a real eye opener.

As an example, you may have a wireless phone, and it picks up interference. The wireless phone may be affected by the frequency used by microwave oven.

What I would do is turn off the extender for city wifi. I have no idea what range it is in. So, first I'd want to establish a baseline with my new Comca$t router/modem. Does it work well? If so, go on to compare it with city wifi.

The fewer devices you have active, the simpler will be your troubleshooting if things are not optimum.

 

[MichaelB]

If you're going to locate the modem and routers in the bedroom, keep in mind the modem, and probably the router, will have lots of indicator lights that blink continuously. This might bother a light sleeper.

 

[target2019]

Michael is right about that. Also, the best position may be central location in the house.

https://www.google.com/#q=positoning+a+wifi+router+in+house

In a bedroom, you may be out towards the corner of your property, and that much closer to the other signals in your area.