If the ductwork is accessible, I'd sure give this a shot. A tub of mastic and some fiberglass mesh reinforcing tape will seal a lot of leaks, and they will stay sealed. If the ducts are flex duct, then some plastic clamps (giant zip ties) and a tool for tightening them will be needed.Wouldn't the easier solution to sealing the ducts be some mastic at the duct joints? I have heard of the gas but have not heard any reviews, Let us know how it does.
This can work great. Some people find that these units are too noisy for them, but they aren't as noisy as they used to be. In most parts of the country they need to be put in/taken out each year, which is a chore but really doesn't take long. Even modesty-priced window units can come with remote controls, and if they have their own thermostat then it can be placed right at the bed and not be subject to the external temps at the window unit itself--perfect. Together with programmable setback thermostat in the house (to let the rest of the house get warmer at night) they really do save energy.I put a couple of $100 window AC units in the bedrooms to do essentially the same as skipro, and it works like a champ. The rest of the house doesn’t need to be cooled at night, so we actually have reduced the electric bill over the past couple of years by doing this.
Obviously, one thing to check before spending any money is the ductwork. The OP's house is new, which means it almost certainly has extensive runs of flex duct ("slinky duct"). Builder's love this stuff because they can put it in quickly and save a lot of money. Unfortunately, it is easy to do a really crummy installation job, and that's exactly what gets done a >lot< of the time. The straight lengths of the ductwork should be fully extended (if isn't, the rumpled interior of the duct drives up the resistance to flow a lot, and rooms served by that duct may not get enough hot/cold air). The straight lengths should be supported frequently, even a modest sag (common) can double the resistance to flow compared to a smooth metal duct. Also, make sure it isn't crushed or kinked (very common, especially where it hangs from supports and where it connects to something else). Ideally, the flex duct itself shouldn't be bent sharply to make a turn, it is better to use a regular metal elbow to make such turns and get things lined up so that the flex duct can be connected straight on to another fitting. Also, see that everything is securely connected and feel for hot/cold air leaks.
Regarding leaving the doors open: This can help keep the temps in the house a little closer to uniform if the equipment isn't running, but it shouldn't be necessary when the fan is running >if< each room has sufficient return air capacity. In more "deluxe" systems this will be via a separate grill in the room. In most run-of-the-mill moderately priced homes, the return air just leaves the room under the door. This can work okay, but the door has to be cut significantly higher than the flooring (generally more than an inch, sometimes much more). If a home originally had wood floors and carpet was later installed without re-cutting the doors higher, then there can be a problem.
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