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Old 02-10-2015, 05:29 PM   #741
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is it the old spiral hwy on the map? that's just about straight down!


I've driven up Bogus Basin at night, in the snow but that looks way worse.
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:37 PM   #742
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I'm not sure, I think I was on 95 the whole time - there's another way down that hill?
Yes. Two routes. The video is of the old route. Locals call it the Spiral Highway. Narrow, steep, curvy, numerous switchbacks. with one lane going each way. A fun ride on a good day.
http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/39208800.jpg



You were probably on the newer route. Four lane, divided highway. Just as steep, much gentler curves. Several pull outs for runaway vehicles. Also a fun ride on a good day-just less so.


Locals don't even think twice about using the new road.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:16 PM   #743
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I replaced a bearing in my small utility trailer today.

Recently, the trailer was used mostly to haul my dirt bikes short distances out to further out trail heads in the national forest (the bikes are not street legal). One bearing grease cap fell off somehow, and I kept procrastinating in replacing it. Then, last week I discovered the replacement grease cap I bought, then put on a shelf in the utility closet and forgot all about it. Son of a gun! There goes my superior memory I often brag about. Darn!

So, I immediately took that out to the trailer and tried to install it. My, the wheel was wobbling badly. Dirt and sand had gotten to the roller bearing and ground it all worn. Son of a gun! I was so ashamed that I could be so negligent and foolhardy to tow the trailer like that.

The replacement bearing bought off eBay arrived yesterday, and today I made the point to mount it on immediately. I cleaned out all the metal shavings and dirt from the old bearing, and packed grease into the new rollers as best I could.

I had no tool to press out the outer race, so just replaced the rollers and the inner race, but the wheel rotation is now so smooth and silky. Still, I will remember to check the wheel movement every so often to catch any amiss.
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:42 AM   #744
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...........
I had no tool to press out the outer race, so just replaced the rollers and the inner race, but the wheel rotation is now so smooth and silky. Still, I will remember to check the wheel movement every so often to catch any amiss.
I've knocked out outer races using nothing but a screw driver and hammer. The trick is to catch the edge of the outer race that sits proud of the surrounding area.

Given how bad it was, it is probably fine for now.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:22 AM   #745
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Yes, I started to do that, but when the bearing race did not budge after a few hammer taps, I stopped. I did not want to end up with a deformed and stuck bearing. And then, I still have to press in the new race. I had enough problems tapping in the new cover cap.

I could have brought the hub to a brake shop and paid to have it done, I guess. But on trying the half new part, it seemed to work OK so I just went with the half-assed job. As you said, it was a huge improvement and I am not towing this trailer across the country.

PS. I also thought of heating the hub with a propane torch to expand it and perhaps the race might just fall out, but I did not try it.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:29 AM   #746
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There is not much load on the trailer wheel bearings anyway. For light duty use such as a boat trailer, the bearing should be fine if the old outer race was not damaged and you keep it lubed and clean.
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:54 AM   #747
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I found a pin hole leak in a copper pipe in the basement last week. The pipe doesn't go anywhere just to a shut off valve. I think because the water stayed in the pipe and didn't move it caused corrosion.

I used something called JB Weld on it..a very good epoxy, until I can have the plumber fix it properly.

Also the other day my downstairs Toilet tank bolts were corroded and leaking through. Went to Lowes and got a new kit with rubber washers and supply line for about 9 bucks and got it fixed.
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Old 02-15-2015, 12:48 PM   #748
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Wife and I got home late a few days ago and found the house a chilly 58 degrees. I thought the pilot light had blown out as it has in the past. Lit it and it wouldn't stay on. Being the good boy scout that I am/was. I happened to have a spare thermocouple in my workshop. an hour later heat was back on and life is good. I think I've had the thermocouple on stand by for over 15 years. Today it was minus 12 this morning, glad to have heat today!
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:41 PM   #749
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Yes, I started to do that, but when the bearing race did not budge after a few hammer taps, I stopped. I did not want to end up with a deformed and stuck bearing. And then, I still have to press in the new race. I had enough problems tapping in the new cover cap.

I could have brought the hub to a brake shop and paid to have it done, I guess. But on trying the half new part, it seemed to work OK so I just went with the half-assed job. As you said, it was a huge improvement and I am not towing this trailer across the country.

PS. I also thought of heating the hub with a propane torch to expand it and perhaps the race might just fall out, but I did not try it.
The hub will normally have two slots about 1/2" wide and across from each other exposing the back of the race really well at those two spots - makes it easier to get a drift in there and whang out the outer race. Installation of the new race is facilitated by finding a socket just a tad smaller than the OD of the race and banging away on the back of the socket using it as a drift.
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:50 PM   #750
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I don't know about people's mentioning whacking, banging, and whanging. Perhaps I should post photo of the bearing cap after I managed to hammer it into place, using a wood block as a buffer: the doggone thing got all deformed and looked pretty sad.

So, I did not want to create a bigger mess. If I were to do this again, I would get a bearing puller like the following photo. I already have a pulley puller set, and would not mind adding a bearing puller set to my tool kit.

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Old 02-15-2015, 02:56 PM   #751
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Was at a late lunch with a bunch of friends/ersatz family yesterday. Turned out the drains decided not to. drain. Found the outside 3" cleanout, did a fast trip to Lowes for a water weenie (standing water in the cleanout? not a plunger cure), and ran about 40' of hose and weenie into the cleanout. I expected it was a main drain snake problem, but wasn't up for horsing 100#+ of rental drain snake into the back of the car. $13 worth of water weenie? that was doable. Ran that tool for too darn long with no success - didn't back any water into the house, but couldn't break the blockage free. Told them to call their landlord. Today I learned that even though there was a sewer manhole in the street and an S stamped in the curb in front of the house that the place is still on a septic system. My ministrations were never going to work on a septic in need of pumping (at the least).
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Old 02-15-2015, 03:17 PM   #752
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I don't know about people's mentioning whacking, banging, and whanging. Perhaps I should post photo of the bearing cap after I managed to hammer it into place, using a wood block as a buffer: the doggone thing got all deformed and looked pretty sad.

So, I did not want to create a bigger mess. If I were to do this again, I would get a bearing puller like the following photo. I already have a pulley puller set, and would not mind adding a bearing puller set to my tool kit.

Buying tools for one little job? Where's your pioneering spirit, your sense of adventure? Also, I don't see that particular puller getting the outer race out of the hub...


BTW - installed my new Pentair Intelliflo variable speed pump and am very pleased with it on low speed - it claims to be using ~100W at 750rpm. I'll schedule a 1/2 hour 2350 run time to make the side cleaning port Sand Shark operate - that claims ~860W. On our small pool that translates to under $5/month with 2 water exchanges/day, 8 hours run time. Cool! Thanks for your help on that.
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Old 02-15-2015, 03:44 PM   #753
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Buying tools for one little job? Where's your pioneering spirit, your sense of adventure? Also, I don't see that particular puller getting the outer race out of the hub...
My "sense of adventure" has cost me dearly in my life - only money and some of my sanity so far, and not limbs and certainly not life - such that I have sworn that if I tackle any job, I will be sure to have the right tool for it.

OK, how about this puller for a mere $20 from Harbor Freight?



About the variable-speed pool pump, yes, you will save on electricity if the pump lasts for a few years. I hope you got extended warranty for it.
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:07 PM   #754
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My "sense of adventure" has cost me dearly in my life - only money and some of my sanity so far, and not limbs and certainly not life - such that I have sworn that if I tackle any job, I will be sure to have the right tool for it.

OK, how about this puller for a mere $20 from Harbor Freight?



About the variable-speed pool pump, yes, you will save on electricity if the pump lasts for a few years. I hope you got extended warranty for it.

The HF puller may have enough standoff leg length to pull the race out of the hub, but I think you will find 2 good pulling points on the outer race, which means the 3 jaw puller will just be grabbing a faint edge of the race with 2 of the jaws.

I didn't get the extended warranty on the pump - OTOH, I paid about $975 including all the fittings and giving my labor away for free. The local utility will kick back $200, so $775 cost. A whole 60 days warranty. If I went with a professional installation I would have a 3 year warranty if I bought 3 items in a bundle (Intelliflo, cleaner and filter for instance), and paid for professional installation. I'm rolling the dice that the $975 cost saved me enough to assume the risk of pump failure.
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:39 PM   #755
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I just checked and saw that I paid $1455, all parts, labor, and tax, for a pump that I could get on the Internet for $1050. I thought the additional cost was high for just gluing the two PVC inlet/outlet pipes and to wire it up, but the pool store gave me $200 reward to sweeten the deal. And as the 1st variable-speed pump I had lasted less than 2 years, I wanted the extended 3-yr warranty that only came with store installation.

And as I reported recently on your thread, this doggone new pump, "best" on the market according to the store, had its electronics failed after 3 months!

I called them, and they came swapping out the electronics the next morning. While this pump would still be under the 1-year manufacturer warranty, it would be a lot more hassle for me to uninstall it to go claim it (to the store or to send back to factory?).
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:38 AM   #756
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I found a pin hole leak in a copper pipe in the basement last week. The pipe doesn't go anywhere just to a shut off valve. I think because the water stayed in the pipe and didn't move it caused corrosion.........
I had the same thing happen on the pipe leading to the kitchen sink , and my sister had it happen on the pipe coming off the water meter (few feet past the meter).

So I don't think standing water is the cause, possibly its a defect in the pipe manufacture ?
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Old 02-19-2015, 07:38 AM   #757
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I don't know about people's mentioning whacking, banging, and whanging. Perhaps I should post photo of the bearing cap after I managed to hammer it into place, using a wood block as a buffer: the doggone thing got all deformed and looked pretty sad.

So, I did not want to create a bigger mess. If I were to do this again, I would get a bearing puller like the following photo. I already have a pulley puller set, and would not mind adding a bearing puller set to my tool kit.

I'm not a fan of awkward mechanical repairs either. If I am "pioneering" I'm OK if the solution looks straightforward and somewhat clean. As far as the whanging and whacking..... one of my neighbors was lying on the ground next to the rear wheel hub of his Ford Fiesta for a whole day whanging and whacking. He did finally get it off! Also, once when I was getting my annual inspection, they had a big guy they apparently borrowed from another garage, banging, whanging, and slamming a hammer on somebody's wheel hub all the time I was there. At least a half hour.
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:29 AM   #758
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I had the same thing happen on the pipe leading to the kitchen sink , and my sister had it happen on the pipe coming off the water meter (few feet past the meter).

So I don't think standing water is the cause, possibly its a defect in the pipe manufacture ?
If the leak is in the copper pipe itself (not a joint), then it could be bad news. Copper can last for a long, long time if the water pH is okay, but it doesn't like acidic water (low pH). It corrodes and often the first sign is a pinhole leak. After that, things can start going downhill: more leaks, especially inside walls, etc) can cause a lot of damage, and at very least are a constant nuisance. There are methods to neutralize the acidity (which has other benefits), but homeowners often choose to install newer PEX pipe in place of copper. Not cheap, but final.
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:46 AM   #759
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... And as the 1st variable-speed pump I had lasted less than 2 years, I wanted the extended 3-yr warranty that only came with store installation.

And as I reported recently on your thread, this doggone new pump, "best" on the market according to the store, had its electronics failed after 3 months! ....
What is it about these pool pumps that they don't last long? I've got a fridge and a freezer that are ~ 20 ~ 25 years old, and I've never done any maintenance on the motor/compressor. They typically run at about ~ 50% duty cycle, so that is a lot of hours of operation.

It's actually pretty amazing that these these can just run and run like that, no oiling, nothing (I guess they get lubricated by the compressed fluids?). But failures in a year are so are far on the other end of the spectrum - what's up?


-ERD50
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:55 AM   #760
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.. what's up?
I often wondered that about boats. They're always in need of repairs. I think it must have something to do with water.
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