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Old 11-25-2015, 08:46 PM   #1161
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My hot tub GFI kept on tripping when the heater tried to kick on. The heater was shot. Went to utube, did some learning and ordered the appropriate heater (full, not just the element). Took less than an hour to take out the old unit (corroded and caked) and installed new unit. Tub heats up much faster now!
Got the heater tube for $90 - I'm sure I saved at at least $150 by doing this myself...gotta love it
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Old 11-26-2015, 05:54 AM   #1162
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Originally Posted by ERD50 View Post
Get this (or equiv):

Amazon.com: Bluetooth OBDII OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner Scan Tool Check Engine Light Car Code Reader: Automotive

and a FREE app for smartphone/tablet/laptop (with bluetooth edit - I see they also make wifi & usb versions) and for $15 you will have far more capability that the $50+ code readers. This reads all sorts of things from the ODBII, can monitor while you drive, and reset codes as well.

-ERD50
Thanks for the recommendation.
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:20 AM   #1163
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Another redneck experiment by ls99

I modified one of my mancave's stoves to be more efficient and radiate a lot more heat. The stove is a military tent heater. I added a thirty gallon drum with some piping inside to extend the radiated surface area and added some convector fins to the top for greater ability to remove heat from combusted gases.

It is pure ugly, but it is the most beautiful thing when it is running and keeping the inside toasty.
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:57 AM   #1164
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Ed, I'm not a violent person unless you mess with my cars. We use to have a rodent problem with the little buggers getting in the engine compartment of our older stored vehicles. As soon as Fall rolls around I start setting the killing traps. At first my husband didn't want to kill them. I had to laugh, he bought those have-a-heart traps for mice. He'd catch them, take them outside, release them and catch the same ones the next day. He finally agreed they were the same ones after I put a little blue hair spray on one of the little buggers and he caught it the following day. Maybe it's time for you to set the killing traps!
I have to park outside. I can't kill every rodent in the world; I just want to keep them out of my engine compartment.

Trying various noxious potions now but will be buying a little flashing light that has good reviews.

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Old 11-26-2015, 01:03 PM   #1165
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Did you open the gas cap, and re-close it, or just check that it was tight? I think that sometimes a pressure build up from temperature change can trigger it as well, or re-seating the cap may help seal it. Just tightening may not do the trick. But it can take some time to clear. I wouldn't rush to do anything with that valve until I've fully eliminated the gas cap.

The light on DW's Honda CRV came on the other day after a big temperature swing, and she had filled up days before. I loosened it (and heard a 'woosh' I think), and re-seated it, and the warning went away two days later. We've never had this warning before, car is ~ 5 years old.

-ERD50
The "leave it alone and don't make it worse" tactic worked. The light went out today ! 120 miles after it came on, and about 4 days? I was about to change gas caps.

I did bork about with the canister vent valve just to see what lay in store for me were I to go down that path, but only broke one push-pin connector on its cover, which it can do without, I think.

It's at 3/4 full. Maybe that has something to do with the light going out.

So it still has the same original cap, but maybe I have it on better, somehow.

Thanks for your suggestion to go with the cap first, ERD50.
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Old 11-26-2015, 01:55 PM   #1166
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Modern OBDII systems have "Readiness Monitors" on certain fault codes. You can have a code "erased" with a code reader and if the problem comes back, the fault was not corrected. If you actually fix a fault (Oxygen sensor replacement, MAP sensor, MAF sensor, etc), a readiness monitor still has to be timed out, in other words, the pre-programmed cycle for the code executed.

In the case of the gas cap seal, if a fault code for that is thrown (no seal after a predetermined time period), and you replace the cap with one that has a good seal, the readiness cycle has to clear, and that may be driving for a preset number of miles with vacuum held by the cap and vapor recovery system in the vehicle.
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Old 11-26-2015, 05:23 PM   #1167
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Another redneck experiment by ls99
Wow, a real coincidence. I have a radiant tent heater (H-45 model) that I run on diesel fuel. I want to convert it to provide hot air. I use it to heat a small aircraft hangar, and it just takes a long time to make things comfortable in there with radiant heat. I'm thinking of putting a cabinet around the top portion with a fan to blow air in, over a bunch of fins, and then out into the room. I want to keep the cabinet at positive pressure (as you know, these tent heaters have lots of gaps where the top section attaches and the observation/lighting port closes, I'd like to avoid drawing those combustion gasses out into the room).

Your setup looks nice. I don't see any piping or a regulator, are you burning solid fuel? The stoves are very sturdy and simple, I like that. I paid $100 for mine: brand new, 45K BTU, and nothing to go wrong with it if I keep the flue clean.
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Old 11-26-2015, 07:03 PM   #1168
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Interesting coincidence samclem.

I have two versions of the stove the H-45 like yours and IIRC M1941 which I modified. It is the solid fuel version. I burn mostly pine and stinkwood. The stove runs hot, can go up to 850 F on the stovetop and 350 to 450 F at the top of the barrel. The stack runs around 260 F on the pipe surface and 180 F past the top elbow out through the wall. Can do toast in 20 seconds
Pretty damn efficient. That is with three pieces of about 4" diameter sticks about a foot long, burned vertically in the chamber. About an hour between reloads. If I want to keep sauna like temperatures.

Eventually I will try the same thing on the H-45. The first test will be outdoors when I get around toit.

I have gone through several iterations prior to the current version. BTW the H-45 can be run on solid fuel, just yank the burner cage and put firebrick in the bottom and periphery for a hot burn. IN my current setup no damper is used and the door at the bottom is only cracked open about a 1/4" once fire is up and going good.

I stopped using the H-45, betwen hauling diesel and the attendant eau de diesel scent I got annoyed. I have virtually unlimited wood available at my camp, currently just using all the junk wood I cut down. Get particular pleasure out of having heat from stinkwood. BTW the setup, once up to temperature is virtually smokeless.
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:36 PM   #1169
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Interesting coincidence samclem.
Yeah, and we both had Honda Hawks. Maybe twin brothers separated at birth ?

These little heaters are pretty neat--Uncle Sam paid over $1000 for them in today's dollars when they were new. A radiant heater is a fantastic thing in a drafty tent. The H-45 can technically burn gasoline in an emergency, but I'd have to be very cold before I'd try that. If I locate a source of wood I might give that a go later. For now, diesel is cheap enough and a little more convenient (no ashes).

I'm not sure how I'm going to rig up this airflow/plenum/cabinet. I'm sure it will end up looking terrible, but it will be fun. Flammable liquids, 1000 deg F metal--what could go wrong?

Be careful out there.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:36 AM   #1170
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Fixed the head on my neighbor's Kitchenaid stand mixer. He's been using a plastic head hammer to whack the hinge pin back in place. The pin was working it's way out as he was using the mixer. Easy one, tightened the screw that holds the hinge pin in place.
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:05 AM   #1171
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Yeah, and we both had Honda Hawks. Maybe twin brothers separated at birth ?
......

I'm not sure how I'm going to rig up this airflow/plenum/cabinet. I'm sure it will end up looking terrible, but it will be fun. Flammable liquids, 1000 deg F metal--what could go wrong?

Be careful out there.
Hehe, great minds think alike

Need pics when you rig it up.
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Old 11-27-2015, 11:48 AM   #1172
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Fixed my neighbor's laptop (a widow). She was having network and printer issues. Also helped her move her bed. When I got done, she said "I'll pay you the next time I get my check." I told her that was nice of her, but I wouldn't have it.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:19 PM   #1173
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Changed out deflector chute ring gear on Toro snowthrower. Not bad at all just removing various covers to get at it. While it was apart, changed the spark plug and lubed everything else that needed it. Got parts online from Jack's small engine repair as I have done for years. Ready once again for the next snowfall. First one was 11".


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Old 11-27-2015, 06:27 PM   #1174
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Oil and filter change, fuel filter change, etc on the 2014 Passat. Also reset the dash service reminder.
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:55 PM   #1175
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Your recent repair?

Boys and I repainted their 21 year old Subaru from grandma, as DS2 didn't think it was cool. Sand paper. Primer. A bit of bondo and two dozen cans of satin white spray paint from Walmart ...we will Tint the Windows a bit ... and it's done.... . ImageUploadedByEarly Retirement Forum1448769257.083728.jpg
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:01 PM   #1176
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Boys and I repainted their 21 year old Subaru from grandma, as DS2 didn't think it was cool. Sand paper. Primer. A bit of bondo and two dozen cans of satin white spray paint from Walmart ...and it's done.... . Attachment 22670
What, no flames?
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:32 AM   #1177
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What, no flames?
Shark teeth AND flames AND faux fender vents is the way to go on a Subaru.

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Old 11-29-2015, 07:45 AM   #1178
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Shark teeth AND flames AND faux fender vents is the way to go on a Subaru.



Ha ha. We are discussing the faux hood scoop option now.

Per the instructions, which are in Chinese, this should add 800-1000 more unicorns under the bonnet. ...it depending if we cut a hole in the hood lid or keep the hood stock.

Being he is a teen driver, I'm nervous of handing him all that extra power.

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Old 11-29-2015, 09:29 AM   #1179
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We are discussing the faux hood scoop option now.
At that price, I recommend the triple.

Also, don't underestimate the nearly unlimited horsepower potential in a good collection of aftermarket part stickers.

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Old 11-29-2015, 09:43 AM   #1180
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The above adornments work much better when accompanied by an actual modification to the exhaust system: removal of the stock muffer and replacing it with a bullet type that provides a 10-to-20 dB enhancement. Big and fat tires are the next item, if the budget allows. Be sure to put larger tires in the rear to enhance the stance of the car in addition to traction when under heavy acceleration from the stop lights.
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