Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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I recently replaced a lavatory faucet and fell victim to my dyslexia. The replacement faucets came with the hot marked with red tape. "OK," I thought, "red goes on the right." I got done and realized that I'd installed the faucets backwards.

Thinking back, I did the same thing when I installed new faucets in the kitchen a few years ago.
 
If you have a Moen shower head they'll send you a new cartridge for free. Some of my Moen faucets are 20 years old now, and I've learned that their lifetime warranty comes in handy.

It is a Moen but didn't even consider it would be covered under warranty (18 years old), thanks for the info. Even if I had I'm not sure I would have waited for Moen to ship one out, needed the extra shower with guest visiting. I will try to get them to ship out a replacement anyway, never hurts to have a spare around.
 
I had shut off our giant gas water heater for vacation but upon our return, the pilot would not light. If the pilot lights but does not stay lit, it normally just needs a $10 thermocouple, but ours would not ignite at all. Turns out there was no gas coming out of the pilot line so the valve was broken or blocked. Cleaning the pilot line did not help so a plumber suggested installing a new water heater for $2000. Instead I ordered a new valve unit online and installed it myself. For $130 plus express shipping it's as good as new, and I had a chance to flush out all the gunk that had built up in the bottom of the tank.


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I recently replaced a lavatory faucet and fell victim to my dyslexia. The replacement faucets came with the hot marked with red tape. "OK," I thought, "red goes on the right." I got done and realized that I'd installed the faucets backwards.

Thinking back, I did the same thing when I installed new faucets in the kitchen a few years ago.

Must be an ex sailor. Red Right Returning.
 
I had shut off our giant gas water heater for vacation but upon our return, the pilot would not light. If the pilot lights but does not stay lit, it normally just needs a $10 thermocouple, but ours would not ignite at all. Turns out there was no gas coming out of the pilot line so the valve was broken or blocked. Cleaning the pilot line did not help so a plumber suggested installing a new water heater for $2000. Instead I ordered a new valve unit online and installed it myself. For $130 plus express shipping it's as good as new, and I had a chance to flush out all the gunk that had built up in the bottom of the tank.
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I used to turn mine off for vacations, but now I just turn it down very low so I don't have to fuss with lighting it, just turn the dial up.
Your story makes me sure I'll continue just lowering it a lot.
 
The pump on my pressure washer went out on me, but the Honda engine was still running great. Found an exact replacement for the pump on the interweb for about $100. Three bolts holding it on, so it was fairly easy to replace. Hanging on to the old pump for possible re-build. Plenty of YouTube videos showing how to rebuild these for about 1/2 the cost of buying a new one.
 
My Escape needs new lower control arms because the bushings and ball joints are shot. Local independent shop wanted $650 to replace them, but I knew the parts were only $125 so I decided to do it myself.

First arm was easy and took an hour to replace.

When removing the bolts for the second arm, I broke off the bolt whose nut is captured in the subframe. I'll take it in Monday to see if they can fix it without replacing the whole subframe.

Dang, and it was going so well, too. :(
 
My wife's Toyota 2006 Sienna minivan automatic sliding door malfunctioned on Tuesday. It's convenient for the kids and her since they use it everyday, 3 - 4 times, so it's important. When I said I turned it off, just use manual power, boy the look I got. ;-) Wife said her friend had the same problem, $700 from the stealership to repair. I said "ouch".

I Youtube'd for a fix...Toyota Sienna Automatic Sliding Door Actuator Latch Motor. Ebay had the part for $60 - 80 or Autozone for $100. Then I saw a replacement motor part for $8, just needed to remove 3 extra screws and a few minutes to swap out.

It took just about 2 hours plus an hour to research, so total of 3 hours. Total spend $8 which included shipping.

Does that count towards the Mother's day gift? ;-)
 
When removing the bolts for the second arm, I broke off the bolt whose nut is captured in the subframe. I'll take it in Monday to see if they can fix it without replacing the whole subframe.

Dang, and it was going so well, too. :(

Bummer, do you have clearance to drill and tap? That seems like the best solution if you have access.
 
Bummer, do you have clearance to drill and tap? That seems like the best solution if you have access.
I'm going to let them worry about it, but if I was doing it, I'd cut the bushing off with a die grinder, weld a nut on the broken bolt remnant, then heat up the captured nut with a torch until it was red hot, then I'd unscrew the broken stud.

We shall see if they have that much imagination.
 
I'm going to let them worry about it, but if I was doing it, I'd cut the bushing off with a die grinder, weld a nut on the broken bolt remnant, then heat up the captured nut with a torch until it was red hot, then I'd unscrew the broken stud.

We shall see if they have that much imagination.

Good luck. I will be doing a similar job on my 2003 CR-V - the notorious front compliance (control arm) bushing. I machined a special tool to remove/replace the bushing without removal of the control arm.
 
I'm going to let them worry about it, but if I was doing it, I'd cut the bushing off with a die grinder, weld a nut on the broken bolt remnant, then heat up the captured nut with a torch until it was red hot, then I'd unscrew the broken stud.

We shall see if they have that much imagination.

If you are taking it to a dealer, they will have no imagination as they are trained for R & R. Anything creative is not what they specialize in. Your best bet is an independent shop.

VW's have a subframe-captured nut on the front LCA and it frequently loses its bond if the bolt is corroded (the internal nut glued in place if you can fathom that!). The trick is to cut a hole in the subframe and tack weld it in place then close up the hole. Ask me how I know!:(
 
Busy weekend. Friday morning no hot water. Was the power vent unit for the second time. Last time was 10 years ago. Decided to replace the 26 year old water heater and bring the venting up to current code. I didn't do any of the work but it triggered a bunch of other minor jobs. Capping off an old water line. I was surprised to see that the water heater guys were using shark bite fittings too. May have sweat my last pipe. Rerouted some electrical and this prompted the long overdue new light fixture in a dark corner in the furnace room. Also power washed he the flagstone patio and the mesh patio furniture. Was lucky enough to have DD power wash the deck and stairs the day before. Something addictive about power washing things! It's spring time so many little jobs on the go outside as well of course. Trying some new fencing in the ongoing battle with the deer!!
 
Something addictive about power washing things!

Years ago when I told DW that I wanted to buy a pressure washer she asked what it was for. I explained that "it cleans things by my favorite method. Brute force!"
 
I use mine at least twice a year for deck / patio cleaning, works great. Also good for blasting leaves out of rain gutters but I found that going on the roof with the leaf blower is faster and easier and far less messy.
 
My 3HP front tine roto-tiller refused to start.
When I shot some carb cleaner into the air intake then it would start right up and die unless I sprayed in more.
I researched it online, learned about small engine carbs,
Some are really cheap as in $25 for the entire carb, but mine was $109 and I could always buy an entire new motor for $99 at harbor freight.

So I replaced the carb diaphragm, its pretty easy as only had to take off the muffler to access it.
Then it started on the first pull and continued to run.
Total cost $3.50
 
.........
So I replaced the carb diaphragm, its pretty easy as only had to take off the muffler to access it.
Then it started on the first pull and continued to run.
Total cost $3.50
Good job! These little carbs clog up easily, especially with ethanol in the gas.
 
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Figured out how to jack-in the IPod to my restored Grundig 9068. State of the art 1958 MEETS modern times! Had to build the cord myself.
 
Figured out how to jack-in the IPod to my restored Grundig 9068. State of the art 1958 MEETS modern times! Had to build the cord myself.

That looks awesome! Was the wiring deteriorated? Are all the tubes up to snuff? Does the turn table work? Is it stereo? Wasn't stereo just coming out about then? You sure can't find cabinetry like that these days.

Can you tell I'm impressed?
 
That looks awesome! Was the wiring deteriorated? Are all the tubes up to snuff? Does the turn table work? Is it stereo? Wasn't stereo just coming out about then? You sure can't find cabinetry like that these days.

Can you tell I'm impressed?

That picture is not mine. Mine is a little better looking.:D

Wiring was in good shape. But, with any electronics of this age you need to replace capacitors. I did that last year. About 45 of those! I had to replace some of the tubes. That was the easiest part of the job. Turntable was made for a different amperage, I had to replace some parts to get it to work on US electric at the correct speed. It is still not done to my satisfaction. The unit is mono. Mono with a VERY big sound. Watch the video. I think you'll like the cabinetry even more when you see it.

Since you like it, here is a video I made last year. Check it out. https://youtu.be/pjvNEUtVXoM

And a video on the turntable:
https://youtu.be/Q0biIZF8thM
 
That picture is not mine. Mine is a little better looking.:D

Wiring was in good shape. But, with any electronics of this age you need to replace capacitors. I did that last year. About 45 of those! I had to replace some of the tubes. That was the easiest part of the job. Turntable was made for a different amperage, I had to replace some parts to get it to work on US electric at the correct speed. It is still not done to my satisfaction. The unit is mono. Mono with a VERY big sound. Watch the video. I think you'll like the cabinetry even more when you see it.

Since you like it, here is a video I made last year. Check it out. https://youtu.be/pjvNEUtVXoM

And a video on the turntable:
https://youtu.be/Q0biIZF8thM
Thanks!
 
That picture is not mine. Mine is a little better looking.:D

Wiring was in good shape. But, with any electronics of this age you need to replace capacitors. I did that last year. About 45 of those! I had to replace some of the tubes. That was the easiest part of the job. Turntable was made for a different amperage, I had to replace some parts to get it to work on US electric at the correct speed. It is still not done to my satisfaction. The unit is mono. Mono with a VERY big sound. Watch the video. I think you'll like the cabinetry even more when you see it.

Since you like it, here is a video I made last year. Check it out. https://youtu.be/pjvNEUtVXoM

And a video on the turntable:
https://youtu.be/Q0biIZF8thM

Very nice!

But if the turntable is set for German 50 Hz, and you play it at US 60 Hz, wouldn't it play faster? So I think the slower playing is due to mechanical friction.

Supplying it with 50 Hz from an inverter might be easier than mechanically modifying it? Maybe not, but an option to consider.

Do you have any more info on that added speaker? It sure doesn't look to match the style of the main cabinet. An interesting addition!

-ERD50
 
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