My last two car buying experiences were....experiences.-ERD50
You should try selling them.
My last two car buying experiences were....experiences.-ERD50
You should try selling them.Originally Posted by ERD50
My last two car buying experiences were....experiences.-ERD50
It all comes down to one thing, Price!
If you were willing to pay the price that you are told it would make the whole process easy, no?
How many other things do you buy where the price is the problem? I've always found that car buyers in most cases don't know where the end is. This causes a problem for the buyer and the seller. Even when I pulled out the invoice no one want's to believe it's real. There in is the problem.
If folks would just walk in and pay the asking price it would would be a piece of cake.
It all comes down to one thing, Price!
If you were willing to pay the price that you are told it would make the whole process easy, no?
How many other things do you buy where the price is the problem? I've always found that car buyers in most cases don't know where the end is. This causes a problem for the buyer and the seller. Even when I pulled out the invoice no one want's to believe it's real. There in is the problem.
If folks would just walk in and pay the asking price it would would be a piece of cake.
I used USAA's buying service earlier this year to buy my truck and was very happy with the deal. I paid less than the price Edmund's said was the going rate and enjoyed not having to spend hours engaging in tag-team negotiations with the salesman and his manager.
Nothing dramatic - about [-]3%[/-] 1% under TMV.Would you mind sharing... How much lower than the Edmund TMV did USAA negotiate (on a % basis)?
Actually no - still see "his" ads on TV...Maybe he's out of business by now. (heh)
Yeah, if there is absolutely no negotiating a discount instead of the 0% financing, I'd take it too -- and immediately move the purchase price from my primary savings account into another account where I would make the payments -- and consider the money already spent.I closed the deal today. There is no rebate if you decline it on this model. A FICO of 720 is required to get a 0% deal. I had never known what my FICO score was, so that was enough to get me to apply. My FICO is 820. The guy said that was one of the highest that he had ever seen in the several years that he had been doing this. So I'm not too impressed with FICO scores if mine is that unique.
Anyway, no extra fees; I can pay off the balance at any time; final price divided by 36 is what I pay monthly. It's a promotion that Toyota is doing and the dealer is not part of it. I will set it up to draft automatically each month. I walked out with a new car and did not spend a dime today.
Why not present a counter offer - if you refuse the loan and pay cash, can they knock off another 3-5% off the price of the car?
They must have a cost of money, and a cash offer is usually very attractive compared to a zero interest loan.
However, you have to watch out in case they jack up the price of the car to "compensate" for the loss in financing revenue.
If they refuse the reduced cash offer, you can always revert back to the loan.
I figure it's worth a try - economy sucks nowadays and car buyers are not plentiful around ( especially folks who can offer cash up front ).
Actually, the dealer doesn't give a rip if you pay cash. In fact, they often get paid an additional kick-back if you finance the deal through them. Like a commission for doing the loan.
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Yes I went thru AutoCircle @ USAA (going directly to the fleet mgr is much easier), but that does not stop me from trying to negotiate a bit if I can.
MickeyD, were you successful in negotiating down with the dealer once USAA had played its part?
I closed the deal today. There is no rebate if you decline it on this model. A FICO of 720 is required to get a 0% deal. I had never known what my FICO score was, so that was enough to get me to apply. My FICO is 820. The guy said that was one of the highest that he had ever seen in the several years that he had been doing this. So I'm not too impressed with FICO scores if mine is that unique.
Especially if it is in a TIRA.I'd take the loan, and keep my cash in the bank. Hell, we took a 1.9% loan last year, so that we could keep our cash in an IRA.
Yeah, managing cash flow from retirement accounts can be a biggie. I'm not there yet, but my general plan will be to withdraw as much as I can while exhausting the low tax brackets (currently, say, up to 15%) and not disqualifying myself from benefits that will likely be means-tested by then. For example, if in late December I see I've left $5,000 unused in the 15% bracket (or have about $5000 to go before I bump into means testing), I'd withdraw another $5,000 or close to it -- and move it to a taxable account as needed. That would have the added benefit of reducing future RMDs.Especially if it is in a TIRA.
I made the mistake shortly after retiring when I purchased my last vehicle. While I have $500/mo. for car replacement in my retirement budget, when it came time to buy, I thought I have the money (in a TIRA MM account), why not just use it?
It turned out that the withdrawl bumped me up into the next tax bracket and additional FIT at the end of the year ...
I also set mine up for auto pay, but put the due date two weeks early so that I could make sure I made a payment in case the bank screwed up... finished making the payments earlier this year and got a credit for $1800...