Building our new retirement place

[COcheesehead]

We went through the design build process. We had an design firm involved. It’s fun, it’s interesting and nerve racking all at once. We are in the house now almost exactly two years and we see a few things we wish we would have done differently, but it’s hard to anticipate things until you actually live in the space.
We didn’t want to skimp on lighting, but probably have too much. We ended up with a room we rarely use. We carpeted a spare bedroom and should have just run hardwood in it. Little things. We love the house in end.

 

[REWahoo]

We went through the design build process. We had an design firm involved. It’s fun, it’s interesting and nerve racking all at once. We are in the house now almost exactly two years and we see a few things we wish we would have done differently, but it’s hard to anticipate things until you actually live in the space.

Same here, although we just passed the 24 year mark a couple of months ago. We met with a design firm and went through a list of things we wanted and didn't want in the house. Based on that, they came back with the outlines of three floor plans to incorporate what we wanted. We chose the one we felt closest to our needs and went through 3 or 4 revisions before giving the go-ahead on drawing up the final blueprints.

Like you, there are a couple of things after living in it that we would have done differently, but they are minor. We've really enjoyed the house and hope to continue to do so for a few more years.

 

[OldShooter]

@skyking1, here's a small caution. We moved into our DIY planned house last week. One thing we totally missed is providing routes for the HVAC ducting. This made it very difficult for the HVAC contractor and in the case of a loft bedroom over the garage, left us with no way to get the forced-air heat to the room. So it now has a mini-split and, since we see sub-zero temperatures frequently in the winter, a supplemental electric baseboard for when the mini-split heat pump poops out. HVAC guy says this kind of error is common. Hindsight says we should have had at least the major subs/ HVAC, plumbing, and electrical review the plans before we pulled the trigger.

 

[pb4uski]

I've been cooking on the design and plan in my head for a while now. It has evolved and morphed a few times.
Now it's time to get a design on paper and get it to permits.
Do any of you have a recommendation for a home building forum?
I see
Houzz
diychatroom
finehomebuilding

I will be designing it myself with an engineer friend to help with the permit drawings.

@skyking1, here's a small caution. We moved into our DIY planned house last week. One thing we totally missed is providing routes for the HVAC ducting. This made it very difficult for the HVAC contractor and in the case of a loft bedroom over the garage, left us with no way to get the forced-air heat to the room. So it now has a mini-split and, since we see sub-zero temperatures frequently in the winter, a supplemental electric baseboard for when the mini-split heat pump poops out. HVAC guy says this kind of error is common. Hindsight says we should have had at least the major subs/ HVAC, plumbing, and electrical review the plans before we pulled the trigger.

We did DIY design as well. The local lumber yard where our builder did business had a dept that would do a design for you... floor plans and exterior renderings... and then do a materials list and price it out for the structure but not including electrical, plumbing, etc. We then gave those "plans" to electrical and plumbing subs for pricing.

We made a during-construction decision to spray foam and as a result needed to add a air exchange system because otherwise the house would be too tight. The air exchange system contractor just improvised and put the air ducting inside the interior walls... he had to do that many times before... no big deal. Lucky. Ditto for the woodstove fresh air intake... we thought of that before things were closed in and it worked out fine.

A few years later, we demolished the detached one-car garage and built a detached two-car garage with a loft overhead. Luckily, the propane tank was on the outside wall of the garage so it was very easy to run piping to propane heaters for the garage and the loft for heat.

 

[skyking1]

Thanks Oldshooter, I have been dealing with that among other issues in my drawings.
I have chases in the ceiling of the main floor for the 2nd floor, a vertical chase up from the basement, and chases planned in the basement.
I have outbound and return from each room and common area to account for.
The duct height can be 6" so it is not much of an impact with the 9' ceiling on the main, and still within code for the 8' ceiling in the basement.
I have no attic space to run duct in, so I don't have to get any ducts up there.
Other "little" details to account for:
Plumbing walls and vent locations.
Dropped floor sections for a walk-in shower on both levels. The main floor is easy, the 2nd floor not so much.
We went up with stakes and the 300' tape measure, and a grade laser and worked out the house location on the lot. After much thought we came back to the first gut instinct to rotate the house towards the views, about 30 degrees clockwise.
I had it squared up with the compass for solar. It turns out that this is not correct for where we are. The sum is often blocked by morning fogs that burn off later, so the ideal position is about 11 degrees. My extra twist is negligible.

 

[DrRoy]

We had planned to from Michigan to the Hocking Hills area of Ohio at RE, and had bought some land to build on. In the end we decided not to do that and remodeled our existing house instead. We visited Washington state for the first time last year. This is my favorite photo of Mt. Baker.
.

 

[skyking1]

We had planned to from Michigan to the Hocking Hills area of Ohio at RE, and had bought some land to build on. In the end we decided not to do that and remodeled our existing house instead. We visited Washington state for the first time last year. This is my favorite photo of Mt. Baker.
.

Very nice When they cut these trees for phase 2 of the development next door, we will get something like this, from ~25 feet lower. This is from the neighbor's deck.

 

[Fermion]

See, this is why you need to build a tower

 

[OldShooter]

@skyking1, here's another thing we learned after we moved in to the new lake house last month:

For a number of reasons, including maximizing the the view and suitable location for the 500 gallon LP tank, the furnace is located in the SE corner of the basement. This turns out to be directly under the master bedroom. Oops! Its fairly noisy when the furnace fires up early in the morning when the thermostat setback period ends. "Fairly" as in "annoyingly" noisy.

If I had a "do-over" I would try to move the furnace. I would also try to find a sound isolator to decouple the ductwork from the furnace. In one house we had, the system had an isolator that was basically a very short (a few inches) section of canvas duct, separating the furnace from the rest of the ductwork. I would also put sound isolating blanket between the ducting and the floor joist trusses and would minimize the nails, straps, and clamps that hang the ductwork from the joists and couple noise. Unfortunately most of these options are no longer available to me but I'm going to talk to the HVAC contractor about some kind of sound isolation coupling.

Just another field report FWIW.

 

[pb4uski]

Is there a finished ceiling in the furnace room? Would foam insulation or soundproofing the ceiling help?

Or buy some jammies and a pair of slippers and change the setback to after you get up. [emoji16]

 

[skyking1]

@Oldshooter thanks for that tip. I can do that uncoupling, but the good news is all the equipment is at the opposite corner of the house.
The design is a main bedroom and all we need on the main floor, over a full unfinished daylight basement. It has a dedicated equipment room at the far east end, under the living room more or less.
There is about a 60% 2nd story with 2 beds and 2 baths, another complete main suite up there in case we like it better, and to provide for guests.
The 60% is over the great rooms and common areas, but it is not over the main suite portion. I don't want anyone stomping around over a bedroom.
That second story will have a kitchenette and common areas, everything but a stove to keep it from getting classified as an Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU).
I can only build one of those on the property and I have plans for that
I am installing hydronic heat under the subfloor, with the heat coming from a Ground Source Heat Pump (GSHP), AKA geothermal.
There will also be a GSHP for air conditioning and supplemental and rapid reaction heating, but the primary heat will be radiant floors.

@Fermion there are height limits in the city

 

[OldShooter]

Ducting fastened directly to the joist/trusses. I still have to talk to the HVAC guy to get his ideas.

 

[skyking1]

Main floor is all hashed out and ready to get CAD drawings. Please ask about any details I have not labeled. Windows are still floating around a bit.
That is an open elevator shaft with stairs wrapped around, with no back wall only side walls.
It will either get a full meal deal residential elevator or a platform lift. It goes to basement and up to the 2nd floor. 2nd floor drawing is done-ish but I need a fresh one without all the erased walls on it.

 

[Ronstar]

^^ Very nice!! Nice and square - easy to build. Plumbing in the same area. I like the master closet arrangement. And allowing for a deeper fridge. And good move on the chase.

Who needs CAD drawings? - Easy to build from what you have there. Have fun with your build!!

 

[skyking1]

Thanks Ron, I will use a lot of the details I developed in this kitchen build. I built in our fridge and have it ventilated into our closet behind. The cabinet above would be silly deep, so I split that space with the closet too.

Designing and building cabinet boxes is my happy place. I farmed out the doors and might do that again. it depends on how much time I have and if I have a good local door shop.
The new house has a full unfinished basement with a great room that is 15' x 32' with double walk out doors. I can back right up to them and put my wood shop down there after I get it dried in. While the sheet rock and flooring guys are working above, I plan on making the cabinets in the basement.

 

[Music Lover]

Main floor is all hashed out and ready to get CAD drawings. Please ask about any details I have not labeled. Windows are still floating around a bit.
That is an open elevator shaft with stairs wrapped around, with no back wall only side walls.
It will either get a full meal deal residential elevator or a platform lift. It goes to basement and up to the 2nd floor. 2nd floor drawing is done-ish but I need a fresh one without all the erased walls on it.

I noticed a couple things:

1. If the wall by the pantry didn't bump out you would gain another foot of which could be used to add more counter space next to the fridge.

2. I think the laundry area is inefficiently laid out. I would reconfigure that plus add another door so it can be closed off from the rest of the house.

 

[NgineER]

Looks very nice SkyKing!

I do think MusicLover has some good points. The half bath looks excessively large and I would not want to have the laundry open to the kitchen and living space. It can get quite loud at times. I'd also try to combine the wet walls for your plumbing, it would be much more efficient to have all the plumbing (or most of them) on the same wall. Especially the two toilets. By setting the toilets back-to-back you'd be able to have fewer roof penetrations and less cost for plumbing.

 

[Music Lover]

I'd also try to combine the wet walls for your plumbing, it would be much more efficient to have all the plumbing (or most of them) on the same wall. Especially the two toilets. By setting the toilets back-to-back you'd be able to have fewer roof penetrations and less cost for plumbing.

I just noticed that the toilet in the half bath is against an outside wall which means that the water line for the toilet could end up in an outside wall.

I would probably rotate the half bath toilet so the back is against the main bedroom bathroom wall, and move the main bedroom toilet so they oppose each other.

Then I'd move the sink in the half bath to the same wall as the toilet (the door would have to move to the right) and slightly narrow the bathroom, which adds more counter space in the kitchen.

When done both toilets and sinks would oppose each other.

 

[pb4uski]

I just noticed that the toilet in the half bath is against an outside wall which means that the water line for the toilet could end up in an outside wall.

I would probably rotate the half bath toilet so the back is against the main bedroom bathroom wall, and move the main bedroom toilet so they oppose each other.

Then I'd move the sink in the half bath to the same wall as the toilet (the door would have to move to the right) and slightly narrow the bathroom, which adds more counter space in the kitchen.

When done both toilets and sinks would oppose each other.

No worries about a toilet or sink along an exterior wall we have our powder room sink and kitchen sink along an exterior wall the how and cold water supply piping comes up through the floor just in front of the exterior wall.

If you are going to spray foam, consider installing strapping horizontally on the outside of the vertical wall studs at the top, base and 2 or 3 in between and then put on the sheathing on top of the strapping. When you spray foam the wall cavaties the foam oozes (technical term) between the vertical wall studs and the sheathing and reduces the thermal bridging on the wall.

 

[pb4uski]

Looks very nice SkyKing!

I do think MusicLover has some good points. The half bath looks excessively large and I would not want to have the laundry open to the kitchen and living space. It can get quite loud at times. I'd also try to combine the wet walls for your plumbing, it would be much more efficient to have all the plumbing (or most of them) on the same wall. Especially the two toilets. By setting the toilets back-to-back you'd be able to have fewer roof penetrations and less cost for plumbing.

There is no need for additional roof penetrations for plumbiing venting as long as the fixtures are reasonable near to each other. We only have one roof vent for the whole house.

 

[NgineER]

There is no need for additional roof penetrations for plumbiing venting as long as the fixtures are reasonable near to each other. We only have one roof vent for the whole house.

Sure - all depends on second story layout and attic access. Cost will be less by thinking about layout and optimizing on the drawing board vs. spreading things out and trying to bring it together in the attic.

 

[skyking1]

Thanks guys.
To clear up some details:
We like the no door pass through into the laundry.
That powder room vanity is sharing space next to the built in fridge, look at the fridge picture above. If I do anything there you end up with impossible counter space back in a cave, hence that design detail. the powder room is big enough to put a chair in it, which I think is a nice touch.
I did not label these details so my apologies.
That little square to the right of the fridge is custom cabinets for air fryer, microwave etc in a stack at eye height, with drawers below. That allows for the fridge door to open and not hit the counter.
The next little square at the end of the counter is an appliance garage for other things.
I have no need to optimize wet walls or venting. That is strictly a cost thing and plumbing is really cheap, so I let my design speak to my needs and not to some pocketbook agenda.
Note that the laundry sink is way down there away from the washer. Not a thing. It makes more sense to have the counter space next to where you pull the clothes out.
I should also say that I will do all the foundations, ICF basement walls, plumbing rough in below basement slab, wiring rough in below slab.
I will hire the basement slab done by a crew. Not my thing.
I will frame and dry it in by myself and with my brother and family's help.
Roofing, insulation, wiring, plumbing, hydronic floor heat, Geothermal heat pump ground loops, lighting design, all finish carpentry is on me.
I will hire the tile showers, flooring, drywall and probably paint out.
I can do all those things but my back would rather not
I have to do the siding if I want it right so I will save myself for that.
I work for a plumbing contractor and I could get some help on the plumbing, but I have seen and done enough of that to do it myself.

 

[skyking1]

That wall line from behind the fridge and along the stairs is the bearing wall for the west edge of the 2nd floor. I will get that sheet cleaned up and posted, and then work on some elevations. Thanks for your comments and patience.

 

[Ronstar]

Thanks Ron, I will use a lot of the details I developed in this kitchen build. I built in our fridge and have it ventilated into our closet behind. The cabinet above would be silly deep, so I split that space with the closet too.

Designing and building cabinet boxes is my happy place. I farmed out the doors and might do that again. it depends on how much time I have and if I have a good local door shop.
The new house has a full unfinished basement with a great room that is 15' x 32' with double walk out doors. I can back right up to them and put my wood shop down there after I get it dried in. While the sheet rock and flooring guys are working above, I plan on making the cabinets in the basement.

Those are some nice looking cabinets. You already know this, but if you farm out the doors, make sure you and the door shop are using the same lumber.

 

[street]

I just noticed that the toilet in the half bath is against an outside wall which means that the water line for the toilet could end up in an outside wall.

I would probably rotate the half bath toilet so the back is against the main bedroom bathroom wall, and move the main bedroom toilet so they oppose each other.

Then I'd move the sink in the half bath to the same wall as the toilet (the door would have to move to the right) and slightly narrow the bathroom, which adds more counter space in the kitchen.

When done both toilets and sinks would oppose each other.

You have done a good review of the plans. I agree with all your points of interest.

Nice retirement build I wish the OP a fun time on the home.