MC Rider
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Good luck with the approval. We just got approval for a 440 SF pre fab steel garage after 3 months of waiting.
Building our new retirement place
- Thread starter skyking1
- Start date
OldShooter
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Our new lake house is in a rural county. We used used the very well known premium builder in the area. As we were working on the design, niece/Chicago-based architect asked the builder what kind of a data package the county would want. "I could walk in there with a sketch on a napkin."
Fermion
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Here in eastern Washington it is like another world compared to where SkyKing is in western Washington. Yesterday I called the inspector to inquire about inspecting the radon reduction pipe system (yes, sigh, this is a thing, yet another regulation even though we have registered just 1 ppm on a sensor we bought to test). The inspector said, will today at 1pm be ok?
In Seattle it would have been "We have an opening December 10"
In Seattle it would have been "We have an opening December 10"
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
Luckily I am in a small city with 1 inspector, and I know all the staff by name in the office. If they say 6~8 weeks it will be close to that.
My only holdup might be the driveway location. I am proposing an interim driveway up a Right Of Way. I had a verbal approval earlier this year.
Because of the size of the property I had to make a storm water site plan and a storm water pollution prevention plan (SWPPP), even though it is in some excessively free draining gravels. It is a formality due to formulas of Sq. Ft. disturbed.
The SWPPP needs to be administered by a Certified Erosion and Sediment Control Lead (CESCL). This is a card I went out of my way to renew
Bottom line is, I won´t have water issues or mud, but I will have proper documentation by golly.
In the intervening weeks I will draw up a simple addition for a friend and help them get it permitted, and travel across the state and help another friend with footings and ICF basement walls, in the higher country above Lake Roosevelt.
His job will get unworkable in the winter months and mine is a year round site so we will trade on it. I hope I can get his foundation done before I get my permits.
He can´t get the logs delivered to his site until May at the earliest due to winter road conditions.
I will put the pedal to the metal to get our house in a good state by then.
My only holdup might be the driveway location. I am proposing an interim driveway up a Right Of Way. I had a verbal approval earlier this year.
Because of the size of the property I had to make a storm water site plan and a storm water pollution prevention plan (SWPPP), even though it is in some excessively free draining gravels. It is a formality due to formulas of Sq. Ft. disturbed.
The SWPPP needs to be administered by a Certified Erosion and Sediment Control Lead (CESCL). This is a card I went out of my way to renew
Bottom line is, I won´t have water issues or mud, but I will have proper documentation by golly.
In the intervening weeks I will draw up a simple addition for a friend and help them get it permitted, and travel across the state and help another friend with footings and ICF basement walls, in the higher country above Lake Roosevelt.
His job will get unworkable in the winter months and mine is a year round site so we will trade on it. I hope I can get his foundation done before I get my permits.
He can´t get the logs delivered to his site until May at the earliest due to winter road conditions.
I will put the pedal to the metal to get our house in a good state by then.
street
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Just wondering if you got your dirt work done in June as planned. So, a month away or so on the start of building to start the way is sounds?
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
No, I had delays and just submitted for permit. I suspect I will be breaking ground in early November. My first job is getting power up there after I get the permit. It is right next to the proposed driveway and I have to stack the ditch spoils in the driveway, so I will get that in even before bringing in rock for it.
I am hearing that my disconnect at the meter won't be enough to meet NEC 2020 code for an emergency disconnect, and I will have to put another box on the side of the house. That's a bummer.
I will get the L&I inspector out there to inspect the meter, "ranch" boxes, and the temporary power outlets and ask away. That is always best.
I am hearing that my disconnect at the meter won't be enough to meet NEC 2020 code for an emergency disconnect, and I will have to put another box on the side of the house. That's a bummer.
I will get the L&I inspector out there to inspect the meter, "ranch" boxes, and the temporary power outlets and ask away. That is always best.
Fermion
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We also had to put a emergency disconnect outside the house by the meter (obviously...we are in the same state under the same codes). We used one of the combo boxes which has the meter on one side and the disconnect on the other side. Huge box but had plenty of room to run the 2/0 copper (went with that instead of 4/0 aluminum).
Are you planning 200 amp service like us or 400 amp?
Are you planning 200 amp service like us or 400 amp?
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
400 amp meter base out by the transformer, back to back with a pair of 200 amp boxes with pass through lugs and 4 spaces. I think it is worth my time to get with L&I before I proceed after i get the transformer pad in. If I can get the meter and boxes close enough to meet that emergency disconnect, I will do so.
A shop is in the plans and that is what the other 200 amp is for. The cool thing is, I can heat that shop box up to use for construction power.
A shop is in the plans and that is what the other 200 amp is for. The cool thing is, I can heat that shop box up to use for construction power.
street
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Yes that is correct you will need a disconnect again at the home. I believe here if meter and disconnect is farther than 20 feet to home than you will need another disconnect.
Looking forward to the start.
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
I will dig into that, because it would be fine to have that meter boxes off the end of the house within the 20 feet.
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
The plan review letter came back with a truckload of questions and issues to deal with. I will need some civil engineering on storm water and downspout drains due to location, and I have to design a 580' long concrete driveway.
I spoke with a local civil engineer and he sounds like the guy for the job. I'll be drawing new site plans with the new driveway location and scanning those on Monday to send him. I may go make a video on the property, describing the cuts and fills I have in mind for that. I have pioneered lots of roads in by eye so I can see what I want but I need to convey that on paper.
We are going to submit plans for a driveway of two runners with vegetation in between to reduce the impervious square footage.
It will be about 75 yards of concrete if we go 6" thick and 3' wide runners.
I spoke with a local civil engineer and he sounds like the guy for the job. I'll be drawing new site plans with the new driveway location and scanning those on Monday to send him. I may go make a video on the property, describing the cuts and fills I have in mind for that. I have pioneered lots of roads in by eye so I can see what I want but I need to convey that on paper.
We are going to submit plans for a driveway of two runners with vegetation in between to reduce the impervious square footage.
It will be about 75 yards of concrete if we go 6" thick and 3' wide runners.
Fermion
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
It is a different world, your county in Washington vs ours. Our plan review submitted in crayon on napkin was approved in 10 minutes with no changes.
Ok, not really but it was done in a day.
Ok, not really but it was done in a day.
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
It's a city, which happened to adopt the entire state DOE storm water manual. They went full plaid in this regard, to reference Spaceballs.
Ronstar
Moderator Emeritus
Back in the day (more than 10 years ago), I thought review requirements were getting ridiculous. I had a city review our site plan, wanting a privacy fence between our commercial site design and the adjacent residential subdivision. Fine. Then they wanted landscaping. Fine. Then they wanted landscaping on the other side of the fence so that the fence view was softened for the neighbors. Then they wanted our developer to post a 10 year bond for the landscaping.
Then I had to present all of this to the neighbors (Del Webb +55 community whose 100's of residents had nothing better to do but to complain). I had to give them a fence detail proving that no light could be seen through the fence. Took forever to get this approved.
I've got dozens of similar review stories.
Anyway I feel the pain you're going through. I think that you're qualified to do your own driveway without engineering plans.
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MC Rider
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
A 580' driveway with 75 yards of concrete is going to be expensive! Even gravel would be pricey I think.
Fermion
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Just in concrete that is about 7 to 8 trucks. I'd say $6,000 to $10,000 just in concrete but I have not priced it recently, may have come down, and the OP does that sort of stuff for a job I think? Probably gets the secret discount.
MC Rider
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
You need a lot of prep work, form building etc. Can't just pour 8 trucks of concrete down a hill and expect an acceptable result.
Memory says we paid something like $230 a yard for 13 yards for our garage foundation. Could be wrong. Don't remember if there was delivery charges too, but for sure the guys doing the finishing got paid quite a bit.
I did not tip them but bought a really good pizza on the pour day for the guys. I ate some too.
Memory says we paid something like $230 a yard for 13 yards for our garage foundation. Could be wrong. Don't remember if there was delivery charges too, but for sure the guys doing the finishing got paid quite a bit.
I did not tip them but bought a really good pizza on the pour day for the guys. I ate some too.
JackJester
Recycles dryer sheets
Sorry to hear about your troubles SkyKing. But, you do live in the great PNW, and protecting salmon habitat is important. I did read recently in the Seattle Times that insect surveys of the spawning streams in Puget Sound have resulted in much more insects for fish than before the area took habit protection serious. You live in a great part of the country. Unfortunately regulations come with protecting our beauty and eco system. With that said, I would never build a dream home today in the great PNW with all the regs that come with it. I'll just buy an existing home for what fits me when the time comes to downsize from our current dream house in the cascade foothills. Good Luck to you
Fermion
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You need a lot of prep work, form building etc. Can't just pour 8 trucks of concrete down a hill and expect an acceptable result.
Memory says we paid something like $230 a yard for 13 yards for our garage foundation. Could be wrong. Don't remember if there was delivery charges too, but for sure the guys doing the finishing got paid quite a bit.
I did not tip them but bought a really good pizza on the pour day for the guys. I ate some too.
Oh yes, I know about the prep work, we dug the foundation and did the rebar in the footings ourselves for the house we are building. I am not even sure how one goes about pouring a sloped driveway...I guess the mix is thicker?
MC Rider
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
I'm no concrete guy. But I think you want the mix to be smooth, and not too runny. Just right, Goldilocks. I'm pretty sure they would start pouring at the top.
All I really know is I watched pretty close when the backhoe was digging the footings. And when they poured and finished the concrete. I got tired out just watching.
street
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Man, the extra money and time for all the things you have had to do make it a tough thing.
I know there has to be required things, but I would thing if they had every that needs to be required from the start it would make the processes so much easier.
Good Luck
I know there has to be required things, but I would thing if they had every that needs to be required from the start it would make the processes so much easier.
Good Luck
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
@JackJester I could could not agree more about protecting the salmon. The irony is, this place gets only 16" of rain and the swale out in front of the property has never had any standing water in it, due to that area being classified as type 63 soils which infiltrate REALLY well. The lower 2/3rd of my lot drains exceedingly well, comprised of barely covered big river bottom rock.
That also makes such a good base for the driveway that the roadway specs eliminate 6" of the base course requirements.
The upper 40% of that driveway is over nicer soils, so I will have to craft a base of larger rock and then 4" of CSBC ( Crushed Stone Base Course) that is typically 1.25" minus.
I can eliminate the CSTC ( Crushed Stone Top Course) for a concrete pour.
I can "hard way Jones" the whole thing in with the excavators, or I can rent a dozer for a day over the weekend and rough it in. I am quite comfortable either way, having built many roads over the years.
After I rough it in I will stake it very carefully. The rock placement is going to be critical, as I will not be putting base rock in that 3' wide strip that will get vegetation to promote infiltration. Gravel base is also considered an impervious surface in the storm water manual.
The mini has a 42" wide smooth bucket and the big machine has a 4' wide one. I will make each runner base out of 2~4" crushed rock at least 6" thick, and fill in the gap with some of those well draining soils. That rock will be pricey, figure about $2000 for the big rock if I go get it and $3000 if I get it delivered.
When I excavate the ~300 CY for the basement I will grade and separate that material for various uses. Some of it will be perfect to go between the runners.
When I get the sub grade done it will be 10' wide with 4' wide runners and a 2' strip that will drain well. That will be my construction road for bringing in the concrete, pump trucks, and construction materials.
After I am done beating that surface up building the house, I will tune that up, and use the 4" layer of CSBC to build a perfect grade. I will have offset staking down the one side of the subgrade that is set to grade every ~50' and is 2' away from the edge of the runner. I will set that grade with a combination of the slope laser and swedes.
The flatwork will be done all around the house before that, and no more need of heavy trucks.
We will start at the carport apron slab and use 2x6 for the most part and bender board if needed for the curves.
My brothers and I will set the forms on painted lines as we drive the truck down the driveway. We'll place bar in there that is pre-tied and dobied, and cut crack control grooves every 15' or so with the groove trowel.
If I am on my own it will be one truck a day.
After we cream it up nice, I think we might stamp it, maybe color it.
I think it would look cool as cobblestones, for example.
Or I could be tired enough to give it a quick cross broom and be done
figure $160 per yard or $12000 for the mud itself.
That also makes such a good base for the driveway that the roadway specs eliminate 6" of the base course requirements.
The upper 40% of that driveway is over nicer soils, so I will have to craft a base of larger rock and then 4" of CSBC ( Crushed Stone Base Course) that is typically 1.25" minus.
I can eliminate the CSTC ( Crushed Stone Top Course) for a concrete pour.
I can "hard way Jones" the whole thing in with the excavators, or I can rent a dozer for a day over the weekend and rough it in. I am quite comfortable either way, having built many roads over the years.
After I rough it in I will stake it very carefully. The rock placement is going to be critical, as I will not be putting base rock in that 3' wide strip that will get vegetation to promote infiltration. Gravel base is also considered an impervious surface in the storm water manual.
The mini has a 42" wide smooth bucket and the big machine has a 4' wide one. I will make each runner base out of 2~4" crushed rock at least 6" thick, and fill in the gap with some of those well draining soils. That rock will be pricey, figure about $2000 for the big rock if I go get it and $3000 if I get it delivered.
When I excavate the ~300 CY for the basement I will grade and separate that material for various uses. Some of it will be perfect to go between the runners.
When I get the sub grade done it will be 10' wide with 4' wide runners and a 2' strip that will drain well. That will be my construction road for bringing in the concrete, pump trucks, and construction materials.
After I am done beating that surface up building the house, I will tune that up, and use the 4" layer of CSBC to build a perfect grade. I will have offset staking down the one side of the subgrade that is set to grade every ~50' and is 2' away from the edge of the runner. I will set that grade with a combination of the slope laser and swedes.
The flatwork will be done all around the house before that, and no more need of heavy trucks.
We will start at the carport apron slab and use 2x6 for the most part and bender board if needed for the curves.
My brothers and I will set the forms on painted lines as we drive the truck down the driveway. We'll place bar in there that is pre-tied and dobied, and cut crack control grooves every 15' or so with the groove trowel.
If I am on my own it will be one truck a day.
After we cream it up nice, I think we might stamp it, maybe color it.
I think it would look cool as cobblestones, for example.
Or I could be tired enough to give it a quick cross broom and be done
figure $160 per yard or $12000 for the mud itself.
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OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
the city has required paved or concrete driveway for a long time so no surprises there.
I tried to pull a fast one and put an " interim" gravel driveway up the adjacent street right of way and they shot me down in flames. It was well worth the try.
I doubt that street will ever go all the way in, but the development next door will bring it to our eastern edge of the property and we would have a 60' driveway.
OP
OP
skyking1
Thinks s/he gets paid by the post
you could, but I would think about how it will be with a skin of ice on it. That would affect my choice of finish.
Salt eats the surface.
One solution is to put pex tubing in the pour and heat the driveway with a hydronic boiler. You could probably engineer something that ran off an instant water heater with a glycol solution in the system.
You don't heat it all the time, only enough to get it safe after bad weather.
If I was concerned about the approach to the carport I would put pex in it and heat it with the GSHP at my house, same with the carport roof deck. I don't see it as being a huge issue there in Sequim so I won't go to those lengths.
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