Do it yourself Home AC Maintenance

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This spring the unit froze up, which I determined because I got a great temperature drop when it first came on, then lost the temp drop after running solidly for some hours. A bit of coolant solved that issue.

You add refrigerant to an A/C system and coolant to the radiator or expansion tank in your car.

I agree with the other posters on the "pro's" needlessly replacing entire systems instead of replacing a $10 part.

Up until 4 years ago, I had the original Chrysler Air-Temp central air conditioning system still functioning perfectly in my rental property that was installed in 1974. I replaced both the evaporator fan and condenser fan once over the years, but that was it. When the compressor finally locked up after 44 years, I replaced the system.
 
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I clean the outside condenser at least once a year. Regular waterhose works for me. Inside I change the filters every 6 to 8 weeks with quality filters. Never touch the evaporator core except to clean out the over flow drain if needed and pour some Clorox down the drain to stop mildew build up.

I've found it's a good idea to keep a spare correctly sized starter/run capacitor on hand. Seems it's the weakest link in the system in my experience. Cheap, easy to change, if you know how :) If you don't know how, call someone that does otherwise you may be in for a shocking experience or worse. Remember caps can shock you even when the power is off.
 
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^^^This is what I do. Clean the condenser in the spring. Clear the evaporator drip tray drain, and have a spare capacitor on hand. Just in case.
 
One way of testing the insulation of the duct is to check the temperature of the inlet/outlet of the system in the "Fan" mode, meaning with the compressor being off.

I once measured the air temperature at the system dust filter, and then the temperature at the outlet register of a furthest room. The difference was shocking to me at 4F. That's the heat gained by the air as it travels through the system.

If I were to build a new home, ductless mini-split systems would be the way to go.



4’F actually does not sound too bad to me but I guess it really depends on the ambient and attic air temps. Would be interesting to monitor under different conditions and day/night etc. I’m more worried about leaks on either side bypassing the insulation.
 
Where do you guys get your capacitors? Home Depot, Lowe's?


I had the fan stop on my condenser unit, I robbed the capacitor from a squirrel cage fan I had, until I could get one from Ebay. Another time I got one from my brother in law. Amazon carries a bunch of them also.
 
One way of testing the insulation of the duct is to check the temperature of the inlet/outlet of the system in the "Fan" mode, meaning with the compressor being off.

I once measured the air temperature at the system dust filter, and then the temperature at the outlet register of a furthest room. The difference was shocking to me at 4F. That's the heat gained by the air as it travels through the system.

If I were to build a new home, ductless mini-split systems would be the way to go.


Did you let the fan run a while? I expect the duct would warm up while stagnant, and cool down as the heat is removed when air flows.
 
Where do you guys get your capacitors? Home Depot, Lowe's?



Actually I've never looked at HD or Lowes... For me, there are a couple of electrical supply stores in a nearby town that I use. One specializes in HVAC units and parts, the other one is just an electrical supply store. I may checkout HD or Lowes next time I'm in one, just to see what thy have.
 
For the OP - I open up evap cases once every bunch of years to check a few things: That there is no mold growth, that the evap isn't becoming a rusty mess, and that the fins look reasonably clean (that dirt particularly fibrous matter isn't somehow bypassing my 4" thick filters).

I have furnaces in the attic with evaps that are A-coils that lay on their sides. Usually on those there is a panel that can be carefully removed by taking out sheet metal screws. That offers a side-on view of the "A".

From what I can tell of your first pic, the right side, from where the liquid and suction lines are placed (about half way up) plus what looks like the relative thinness of the evap case near-to-far (again, the pic is dark and not a good view of right side), I'm thinking you have an H-coil evap. An evap coil that was purpose-built for horizontal furnaces and horizontal air handlers. The H-coil evap's case is a band of steel that goes all the way around it, right, top, left, bottom.

As such, there is nothing that will come apart on the H-coil itself to see in when installed. Have to separate either the output end (the end towards the octopus of supply ducts off in the distance), or the input end (the return, which I figure is the big round flex duct in foreground of pic). It's possible that pulling all those sheet metal screws holding the return plenum end and return duct, would allow one to pull back the end of the return plenum (while compressing or bending flex duct back and forth like a snake). That should give room to look inside at the face of the evap H-coil.

I note that in the second pic, that I don't see the back of the evap's metalwork on the left side... looks like the sheet metal side goes on by. So maybe the whole assembly was built as a box, and the evap was slid in from the right and fastened down. With the way the refrigerant lines are run, you won't have slack to unfasten however the evap coil is held in, and slide it out to the right to inspect it. So if I was doing it, I would do a good visual to see how that front end cap is held on as I mentioned above, and pull that out to see straight in to the coil's face.

But you have other things to consider... with no plywood securely and safely fastened down with screws to the joists, you do not have a safe work platform. Also, there is the "maybe let sleeping dogs lie" unless you suspect some problem. I would think you could get somebody in to disassemble it enough to look at the H-coil, but it's not going to be a quick in and out job, maybe a job left for a slower time of year for A/C places.

If an evap coil is pretty dirty, there are aerosol cans of coil cleaner that can be used to spray them down, then spray them off with water. Being careful to keep water spray at such an angle and amount that it washes the dirt down into the evap's drain pan, and out the drain... without overloading the pan with too much water at once and have it overflow, or run all over inside the plenums.

The first pic is so dark and at an oblique angle, that you would really need to verify where the blower motor is, and which end is which, return (input) and supply (output), as I may have it reversed. Either way, to open up one end and see the coil, the blower motor can't be in the way, and you need to be within arm's reach of the evap coil to actually do anything inside.

Excellent post - thanks!
One comment to the OP: if it were me, The first thing I would do is install a good platform of plywood on those rafters so you have a safe and sturdy area to work on. I can’t believe the HVAC guys who installed this thing didn’t do that in the first place. Crazy
 
Where do you guys get your capacitors? Home Depot, Lowe's?

The last couple motor capacitors I replaced were ordered from Amazon. One for a refrigerator and one for a central A/C unit.
 
Here is another source for home items:


supplyhouse.com


They have pretty much everything you need and the help desk is real nice.
 
Thanks for the suggestions about where to buy a capacitor. I checked Lowe's and they don't have them, but they were helpful enough to recommend some local supply places. I'd rather not spend the money on a spare part I'll never need (knock on wood) but having to wait 2 or more days in the middle of winter would be no fun, lol.
 
The Capacitor for my air conditioner is only $12 from Amazon.
Free Shipping.
 
The Capacitor for my air conditioner is only $12 from Amazon.
Free Shipping.
Right. And it will happen in the summer, not the winter. I always have an extra on hand. But I just retired a 1993 unit and I didn't buy a spare for the new Goodman I installed. I should probably do that.
 
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Yes yes yes on the spare Capacitor. If at an inopportune time the AC is not running, buzzing or blowing the breaker - the capacitor is an inexpensive replacement to try and likely to be the cause. I sourced off of ebay after local supply house claimed they only sell to trade accounts.

As for new or replacement systems I have used acwholesalers.com.
 
Where else to put it, if there is no basement?

Doesn't the attic get incredibly hot in the summer, just when you need the A/C ? Seems like it's not an efficient idea to put the A/C in the hot attic.
 
Where else to put it, if there is no basement?

Agreed, for many situations, the attic space is the only real option. You COULD put it outside (either next to the house or on top of the roof, but this will require longer runs of ductwork, especially for an “upstairs/downstairs 2 zone system where ther is not already ductwork running from the ground to upstairs.
Of course, if you happen to have some spare closet space upstairs, you could place the air handler there. However, few people are willing to give up that space (vs. the essentially dead attic space), plus there tend to be noise issues with that solution too. Of course, in many regions you have crawlspaces that can accommodate an air handler as well.
 
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My heat pump compressor locked up at my lake house. We received bids of $5300, $7200 and $8900 for 3 ton replacements including a new air handler.

Looking online, 3 ton heat pumps run from about $2100 to $2800 cost. As you can see, HVAC contractors are not shy about "going for the throat."

I was referred to a small HVAC contractor who did the job for $4100, including redoing quite a big of sheet metal. Needless to say, I was pleased.

My circuit breakers were too large for the job, and I spent yesterday replacing the breaker box outside and adding two new breakers--$50. And it's doing great.
 
^^^^^
The condenser/compressor unit is usually placed outside and evaporator/blower units are usually in the attic, basement or inside a special closet.
 
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Some things seem strange. When I moved to Florida I found many houses have a main circuit breaker box on the outside of the house. It has the furnace, the air conditioning, the drier and one other 240V item in it ( maybe water heater). Then there is another breaker box in the house. Made no sense to me coming from Michigan.
 

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