PSA: Check that Sump-Pump! Plus Irony and a Question.

ERD50

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PSA first (as the rest gets [-]a little[/-] long): Check that Sump-Pump, including the entire drain, the entire system!

Some problems are not so obvious. In my new-to-us home, I discovered that the outlet for the sump drain ( typical 4" corrugated plastic pipe that goes out about 25' from the house) was partially blocked. Mostly just grass grown over the perforated end piece (more detail later), so it was easy to make a temporary fix by just raking the grass out of the way and pulling out the perforated cap. This was rather deceptive, and could have led to a BIG problem if I didn't detect it, as when the pump ran a moderate amount, it would drain just fine, so no problem, right? Wrong! More detail on this below.

So check your that your drain is clear and getting the water away from the house. Once a month or so, flip the float to make sure the pump is pumping as expected. Make sure the float is free and clear of any obstructions. Watch the pit during rains to get a baseline for what to expect, so you can tell when something changes. Keep a spare pump on hand, and know how to replace it (not hard at all). And keeping the same model as a spare makes replacing it easier, everything will line up.

Another note on sump drains for those in freezing climates: The PVC outlet is supposed to have an air-gap between it and the 4" drain pipe it flows into. Seems than many are connected directly (as is mine, which I will change before winter). The problem is that w/o an air-gap, if the drain clogs, water comes up and freezes, and your sump is blocked, and you have no indication. At least with an air-gap, water will continue to flow, and you will probably notice the water pooling up around the house (yes, you should be checking regularly!).


More detail: We finally had some bigger rains after a few days of rain that soaked the ground (we had a very dry spring). I'm monitoring the sump pump/pit, as this home has a mostly finished basement, I really, really don't want any water down there! All seems fine. During the dry spring, and even after the light rains, the drain inside the pit was bone dry. Water would come up through the bottom, and the pump would run occasionally (hard to tell how often, it's a submersible and very quiet - a blessing and a curse). Then during this heavier rain, a trickle, then maybe up to a faucet running came from the side drain (maybe 2 GPM max?), so not bad. The pump would kick on for ~ 7 seconds after a few minutes (also more detail on this later).

But as the rain continued, that flow from the side drain turned into a much larger flow - I'd estimate like 5 garden hoses running full? Maybe 15~20 GPM? The 1/2 HP pump (rated 58 GPM at 10' head) would run something like 20 seconds on, 20 seconds off (very rough numbers).

So now I'm concerned about this much higher flow. And it isn't slowing down, even after 10 minutes. So I start to wonder if the gutters are not draining away from the house or something. I go outside to check (luckily, no lightening at the time). Gutters look good, and then I came around back where the 1 1/2" PVC goes into the 4" drain, and I hear the pump come on and... water is gushing out the top of the drain and getting dumped right around the foundation! Yikes! And the nearby gutter drains into the same 4" drain, and water is coming up out of that drain too! So most the water being pumped out is just cycling back to the sump, and this could eventually overcome the capacity of the pump. NOT GOOD!

And as I said above, what is so insidious about this is it all seems normal, as long as the rate is low enough for that partially blocked drain to not back up all the way. Unless I actively monitored this, I would not have known there was any problem until it was too late. I got it cleared, and within about 5 minutes the rate was dropping, and went back to a trickle within the hour. Whew!

OK, even more detail: The sump pump set up looks pretty good, a nice clean install. There is what appears to be a high quality 1/2HP pump, rated 58 GPM at 10' head (Rigid brand - I don't know the quality, but is sure isn't the cheapest pump you can buy if that means anything). And a Watchdog back up pump, with the AGM battery, that pump is rated ~ 30 GPM, so not too shabby (but ideally, it should be as high as the main pump - an outage is usually associated with a storm and rain!). The original boxes are there, and are dated DEC 2019. Check valves in each line, a short run of the 1 1/2" PVC out through the wall to the 4" drain. Because the radon test failed by a small margin and a vent fan system installed, the sump is sealed, but has a window over about half. But I can't easily get in to trip the floats. I might cut out a window and use a gasket and wing nuts to make this easier.

Unfortunately, that Rigid main pump's float is not adjustable, and has only about a 5" range. Inside a sump pit, that's only about 5 gallons, so the pump turns on for ~ 5~7 seconds, then off. That's a lot of cycling - I don't like it. But what to do?

My first thought was to add an external float with one of those "piggyback" switched outlets. Like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Vertical-Float-Switch-for-Sump-Pumps-EBPBV/205618047

I like that because the switch is separate from the pump, and a switch failure doesn't require a new pump (just tie the float on the pump to the ON position). And in an emergency, you can bypass it and just plug the pump in directly to a power strip and manually cycle as needed.

But those don't seem to have much more range, the pump would still short cycle. Hmmmm. I thought about trying to modify the float, but I'm trying to avoid doing all the "MacGyver" things in this house that I did in the old, and keep it simple.

A better idea? So I'm thinking, even if I increase the float range, the main pump will still drain the pit fast (maybe 15 seconds instead of 7 seconds?), and I'm still putting wear and tar on the pump that I really rely on. I started thinking about adding a small third pump and check valve, something less than 5 GPM. I'd put this at the bottom, and raise the main pump ~ 5 inches such that under most conditions, only the small pump would run. This would save wear/tear on my main pump. And that small pump should be cheap to replace anyhow.

I really like this idea, now to find a small, reliable 5 GPM pump that drives a 10' head (many of the small ones have limited head capability). And I'd want the pump to be from a reputable source, so if I have to replace it down the line, I can be reasonably assured it is still available, for an easy swap-out. Though once checked, I'd buy a spare (or maybe two), just in case.

Oh,I almost forgot, the IRONY! When I went out the next morning to clean up the grass at the clogged outlet and investigate the clog further, I picked up a piece of paper that I sort of noticed the night before. It's maybe 2" square. Hey, what's this writing? "WatchDog Pump"? It is the label from the back up pump! So the label came off the pump, got pumped out in one piece, and managed to contribute to the clog (there was also some maple seeds in there)! So ironically, my back up pump was almost responsible for a flooded basement! You just can't win!

Any recommendations for a small pump with at least a 10' head? Thinking about this one, but it's even larger than I need/want ( ~ 24 GPM @ 10').

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Submersible-Thermoplastic/dp/B08BLSVHFJ


-ERD50
 
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Another thing to check is your one way check valve in the outlet pipe. Usually just above your pump, helps prevent the backflow once the pump turns off.
 
The small pump below and making the larger one the backup is a great idea. Especially if you can rig an alarm if the backup pump runs.

Would work for me as my pump seldom needs to run. I did replace my original pump and clean the sump but it has been a decade or so.

I need to look for valves in the drain pipe. Never thought about that
 
I’d clear the drain - seems you did that. Then I’d look for a different pump that has a wider range so that it cycles less. But, I really wouldn’t worry about the short cycling. Those pumps are workhorses. The main thing I did when I had a basement is to have a exact duplicate spare pump on hand and an alarm in the pit. If anything happens, swapping out an exact replacement will take minutes.
 
IIRC, the pumping equation RoT, is 5 HP will pump 100GPM @ 100 foot of head, thus a 2.5 HP pump will pump 50GPM @ 100 foot of head, or 100GPM @ 50 foot of head.

I agree with Jerry, buy 2, one for spare. We pumped of water underground, getting a replacement pump took forever and meant trouble.
 
Ha, I thought this thread pertained to men's urology. The title fooled.
 
I had a sump pump in my last house that was put in when a house inspector "discovered" a damp sheet rock wall in the basement. The seller spent $7K to have the floor taken up, trenches done and plumbing into a sump. Come to find out, the sheet rock had been glued directly on the foundation and the wall was just sweating. Waste of $ and a big job to put new drywall on 2x4 walls instead of concrete.

I recognize that many houses in ChiTown have below grade basements on flat lots that should have never had basements. And sump pumps are one of those necessary evils. Hope you can find a happy medium to get water away from your home.
 
Thanks for the PSA. While performing sump checks, I'd suggest to check drainage at furnace/hot water heater for proper flow (assuming you have a drain there). Too bad your home inspector (assume you had one on the buy) did not notice the lack of air gap, or the clogged drain.
 
Thanks for the PSA. While performing sump checks, I'd suggest to check drainage at furnace/hot water heater for proper flow (assuming you have a drain there). Too bad your home inspector (assume you had one on the buy) did not notice the lack of air gap, or the clogged drain.

Yes, good point. In my home the AC condensate and water heater relief goes into a utility pit/pump. There is a full bath in the basement and a washtub, so that feeds into there as well. Those pits are completely sealed (and yucky inside!), so it's hard to tell what's going on, other than I hear the pump cycle when something is running water into it. You wouldn't know of a fault until water started coming up the drain.

I'm thinking of just drilling two small holes in the lid, and inserting two 12 GA wires (for their stiffness) that I'd hook up to an alarm that senses conductivity. Gotta think of a neat way to have them sealed, and also easy to slide up and down so I can do a full test by lowering them below the water level. Just some grommets should do I think.

My DD had her utility pit pump switch fail. We did a video chat, and I was able to walk her through it. Fortunately, she was doing the laundry, and saw the water starting to come up the drain, so got everything off before it went further. Also fortunately, hers is set up with that separate 'piggy-back' switch/outlet. So I had her unplug the pump from the switch, and plug it in direct (turning the breaker off in between for extra safety since there was some water on the floor). The pump ran, and cleared out the water, so we knew it was the switch.

She's pretty handy, not afraid of using a screwdriver, but when I explained how the pit is connected to the sewer system, she decided to "Blow That Dough!" ;) She's pretty frugal, so I though this was good use of the dollars she has saved, though it wasn't cheap. And at my suggestion, she bought 3 of those water sensor alarms, but I realized that's only going to tell you after the water has come up the drain - hence my interest in sticking some wires into the pit to alarm on any level higher than the normal float setting. That would catch it *before* the water came up the drain onto the floor.

As far as the inspection, there was a foot of snow on the ground at the time, so no way he'd notice any clog. I didn't even notice it until this last rain, as it was only partial. Water came out, I thought I was good!

While it is recommended (for good reason) to have an air gap, I think a lot of places haven't done it. I'm not sure if it is code or not. I only recently saw this on youtube.


... I recognize that many houses in ChiTown have below grade basements on flat lots that should have never had basements. And sump pumps are one of those necessary evils. Hope you can find a happy medium to get water away from your home.

I think I'll be good by watching this until I get a more permanent solution. I'm not in a low area, and the grading is decent. It really looks like under normal circumstances (with a clear drain for sump and gutters) the water flow into the sump is pretty slow, so the pump should handle it just fine, and the battery back up is there just in case. Its float is higher than the main, so even w/o a power outage, it will cover for a failure in the main, and sound an alarm.

-ERD50
 
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We bought a new home a year and a half ago, and it has a sump pump. I've never had to deal with one before. But I was concerned about a power loss in a heavy rainstorm. So I've been looking into replacing the existing one with a built in battery backup. Something like this one. It looks like a fairly easy install, and should be a relatively inexpensive peace of mind purchase.

I do test the existing one every month or so. It's an interesting situation, and I'm not sure how I've never had to deal with one in the past.
 
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Another observation

Did some more thinking after looking at the outlet of the drain about 25' out and downhill from the house . That 4" corrugated plastic pipe just had one of those plastic caps with holes in it, to keep critters out. It struck me that there is no way that is going to pass the pumps near one-gallon-per-second output without restricting it. Plus the output of one of the downspouts. Apply the "weakest link in the chain" principal.

I started looking on-line for larger outlets, something with a grate that could pass more flow. Home Depot actually specd these with a max flow rating, and a nice looking 6" or 9" grate was only rated ~ 30 ~ 50 GPM, so even that's not adequate, and appear to provide far more capacity than that simple cap.

I'll plan on hiring someone to add a separate 4" corrugated plastic pipe to the downspout, so that's not adding to the problem. And there are some boxes with grates that should do the job - I think I'll add three of them, cross connected with the downspout for some redundancy. Only about $11 each for the catch basin (68 GPM), about $8 for the grate (87 GPM). I'll add a box where I have them cross coupled, out maybe 10' from the house, so a backup would be seen by water exiting at this higher point.

black-matte-nds-drain-grates-970-64_145.jpg

black-matte-nds-catch-basins-101-64_145.jpg


https://www.homedepot.com/p/NDS-9-i...pip_alternatives-_-100162219-_-100188553-_-N&

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NDS-6-i...-D-Styrene-Drainage-Catch-Basin-101/100377394

-ERD50
 
We had several extended power outages in recent years.
We had no backup to our sump pump and our unfinished basement flooded.
Finally decided to install a backup pump. Didnt like battery ones that we'd likely forget to test batteries.
Decided on a water jet:
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Liberty-Pumps-SJ10-Sump-Pump/p8545.html

Works beautifully. Must have town water supply.

Yes, that's another option for people with municipal water supply (which I now have, was on a well in previous home so that was a no-go then).

I've heard some municipalities don't allow them, for fear of back feed into the supply, but one commenter wrote he just needed to add an approved check valve. That should do it.

Hmmm, maybe when it's time for a new battery for the Watchdog (5 year life?), I should replace it with this system? No more battery replacements, so it would pay for itself.

I'll also add, I do have a power inverter, 2500 watts continuous, 5000 peak. It will run a 1/2 HP sump no problem with a good solid connection to a car battery. So another emergency plan is to hook that to the car, and run an extension cord to the main sump, and/or to recharge the Watchdog battery. But that is all manual intervention, but it's good to have back up plans for your backups.

-ERD50
 
Yes, our town inspector required us to install a check valve before he would pass the jet pump. It was not an expensive add on.
 
I don’t need to test my pump as it runs more than a dozen times per hour day and night all year long - unless we are in a drought. I have lived in my house for over 30 years and I’ve replaced 8 worn out pumps. I am about to put in pump #9 which is sitting next to the sump in the basement until August when my sump cycle time to high level may increase so I can shut off power long enough for me to make the switch. This time I’m installing a new replacement electronic level controller and a wifi enabled high level micro float and wifi transmitter. I’ll get text alerts if water level gets too high.
 
Our house has an English basement. Our bedrooms are in the lower level. During the last 15 years we have replaced both the battery backed pump, several batteries and the main pump. It is one of those things that you don't know it has failed until you really need it. then try replacing it while the sump is rapidly filling up! We also have an independent alarm system. Some times during a big, continuous rain, the main pump would barely shut off before the it would start again. When we replaced the battery backed sump, we when with the Basement Watchdog BigDog which has a very respectable flow rate for a battery system. Further, it will run on A/C ̶i̶f̶ when the main pump fails. The change that made the biggest improvement was not with the sump system itself, but adding gutters to the house with leaf filters. Directing the drains away from the house made such a big improvement that the sump pump seldom runs, even the last day or two up here in Northern IL. Check your gutter drains to be sure they are draining away from the foundation and that the drains are not clogged/restricted.
 
I don’t need to test my pump as it runs more than a dozen times per hour day and night all year long - unless we are in a drought. I have lived in my house for over 30 years and I’ve replaced 8 worn out pumps. I am about to put in pump #9 which is sitting next to the sump in the basement until August when my sump cycle time to high level may increase so I can shut off power long enough for me to make the switch. This time I’m installing a new replacement electronic level controller and a wifi enabled high level micro float and wifi transmitter. I’ll get text alerts if water level gets too high.

Holy mackerel!

Is it normal that a basement leaks like a sieve, and that the water table is that high?

Mama mia! I guess I should not complain too much about how dry it is here.

Houses here are all built on a slab, because there is no danger of frost. Up in the high country, my other house is built on a foundation wall, and underneath the floor is a crawl space. There's no basement.
 
I don’t need to test my pump as it runs more than a dozen times per hour day and night all year long - unless we are in a drought.

This is how it was in my previous house. I always had a spare pump. I had a generator and I had an alarm. I was good to go as long as nothing happened while I was away. Things got better when I got a whole house generator. Before that, I had to run a small generator and an extension cord to the sump.

One word of caution on the backup pumps that run off your water supply. A guy I worked with, his daughter had theirs fail and it flooded their basement. They also don’t pump as much water per minute as a good pump. Plus, you better have someplace for all that water to go. It certainly wasn’t practical in my situation.
 
I don’t need to test my pump as it runs more than a dozen times per hour day and night all year long - unless we are in a drought. ...

As I read that, my brain said "A dozen times a day..." . But it is really 12x per hour? It runs every five minutes, 24/7? Holy Mackerel!

I'd say that in our previous home, the pump ran several times a day in dry weather. That's just a guess from being in the basement, and hearing the pedestal pump run occasionally. I also had the on/off levels set pretty wide on that pump (easy on a pedestal because of the height), so it would run for maybe 20 seconds at a time, not this short 7 second cycle I'm seeing now with the preset 5" delta on the submersible. I don't really how often ours is running in this home, since the submersible is so quiet, but it appears to be pretty infrequent based on my observations so far. Being sealed, I need to get on my hands and knees with a flash light to peek through the window. Thinking about hooking up a web cam until I can get some sort of monitoring system in there.

Assuming that ChiTown = Chicago, how could you have a house in Chicago without a basement?

It's pretty rare to not see a basement around here, not sure I've ever seen one w/o in the city limits. The old homes (and maybe the new?) had shallow basements with a walk up to the first floor, I'd guess the basement wasn't really much deeper than the frost line ( ~ 4', so ~ 5' basement?).

I've also *never* heard a native refer to Chicago as "ChiTown"! I've heard the reference, but never used by a native. Speaking of natives, it is an Indian word for something like "stinky weed", for a garlic like plant that grew in the swampy areas near the lake (or the Michigan Ocean as we sometimes call it). One source says this is from the Miami language, but wiki says:

The Miami (Miami-Illinois: Myaamiaki) are a Native American nation originally speaking one of the Algonquian languages.

So maybe the Algonquin language. Algonquin is also a town in N IL.

-ERD50
 
In addition to a battery backup, I built and programmed a level reporting gizmo. A micro-computer with an ultrasonic sensor was installed through the basket lid. It would take a distance reading to the water level every min and email me a graph daily. Was interesting/concerning to see the level come up so fast during heavy rain.
 

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Another vote for a water-powered back-up pump, if you are on city water.

As I am often gone for months at a time, I have the back-up pump on its own water supply line (separate from the rest of the house, which I turn off at the main when I depart) so it will kick-on as needed even when the rest of the water system is off.

omni
 
In addition to a battery backup, I built and programmed a level reporting gizmo. A micro-computer with an ultrasonic sensor was installed through the basket lid. It would take a distance reading to the water level every min and email me a graph daily. Was interesting/concerning to see the level come up so fast during heavy rain.

I'll definitely be doing something like this, along with alarms for any out-of-the-ordinary readings.

I had something like this on my well pump, which I don't need any more as we are on city water.

-ERD50
 
In addition to a battery backup, I built and programmed a level reporting gizmo. A micro-computer with an ultrasonic sensor was installed through the basket lid. It would take a distance reading to the water level every min and email me a graph daily. Was interesting/concerning to see the level come up so fast during heavy rain.

Very cool!

What is the unit on the vertical axis?
 
We had several extended power outages in recent years.
We had no backup to our sump pump and our unfinished basement flooded.
Finally decided to install a backup pump. Didnt like battery ones that we'd likely forget to test batteries.
Decided on a water jet:
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Liberty-Pumps-SJ10-Sump-Pump/p8545.html

Works beautifully. Must have town water supply.
Be careful! That is a siphon-jet that works on the venturi principle. Terrible things can happen if the outlet pipe/hose gets blocked, restricted, or frozen. If it does, the city water that is supposed to go out the pipe with the sump water, instead goes down into the sump pit via the suction pickup tube. So the float stays high, keeping the city water flowing and flowing and...
 
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