should I buy a new car now

I’d say get anything where you don’t mind if the resale value falls off a cliff in 5 years or so. ICE is on the way out, though this will take its own sweet time. Once battery electric is more affordable than ICE and possibly has lower insurance than ICE, expect the price of ICE vehicles to crater.

When that starts is a good question. “Change happens overnight” estimate would be 5 to 10 years.

I’m not in your situation - Have a 2013 and a 2018 vehicle, these will both last until electric and possibly heavily automated cars are here.
 
It is in pretty good shape, but has needed some relatively expensive stuff in the past few years: a/c compressor, rear calipers and rotors, alternator, new set of tires coming due this year.

To the OP - None of those items are major repairs (AC compressor debatable). Those aren't make-or-break items like an automatic transmission or a head gasket or lost engine compression etc.

For me, I drive newer cars now. Not because the old ones can't be fixed but because I just don't want to deal with car issues much.

If you want a new car go for it - that new car smell !

But I suspect that your old car still has some miles in it.

It's a personal decision that only you can make.
 
According to Consumer Reports, reliability for the 2004 Acura TSX is 1 out of 5, meaning not reliable. In the past I have sold my car when the maintenance and repairs cost more than the car was worth. I kept my 2006 Acura MDX past that point and the problems and costs just kept coming. Finally ditched it and only then thought to look up it's current rating on reliability - it was similarly bad. And I bought it because in 2006 Acura's were considered and rated as reliable, but that has changed.

I would get rid of it.
 
I would get a top of the line Honda instead of Acura. Honda rates much higher than Acura at Consumer Reports for overall score and also reliability specifically.

I also have an aging TSX (great car) and Car and Driver or one of those auto mags says much the same thing. Basically the Acura is the same car as the TSX (especially an older TSX). Plus you can upgrade the Acura to be pretty close to the heated leather seat level of the TSX. Acura has dropped the ball lately; it’s sad. Do NOT get MDX without test driving for several days first. After the TSX it’s like driving an unresponsive marshmallow. Yeah, I sure like having a loaner too though lol.
 
I would stick with Acura.
We're currently on Acura #4 & #5, a 2012 MDX and a 2013 RDX. The MDX was a replacement for a 2001 MDX that blew it's transmission (2nd time) at 215,000 miles. We're already up to 168,000 miles on this one.
The RDX was a replacement for a 2008 RL. I needed something easier to slide in-out with lower back problems. While searching for that car, I looked at the Honda CRX, (supposed to be the same car), but the CRX was smaller in the driver space, and much less quality of ride and features. The RDX was the right choice.
Other than the 2008 RL, we've kept cars for a 10+ years.
Another thought: We stopped using the Acura dealer service after the warranty period expired. We have a reliable local mechanic that is wonderful at less than 1/2 the cost. The last time I went to the dealer they wanted $75/hr service rates to diagnose the problem (which I quoted to them from the computer codes found out by taking the car to Autozone). I left them and never went back.
 
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I’d say get anything where you don’t mind if the resale value falls off a cliff in 5 years or so. ICE is on the way out, though this will take its own sweet time. Once battery electric is more affordable than ICE and possibly has lower insurance than ICE, expect the price of ICE vehicles to crater.

When that starts is a good question. “Change happens overnight” estimate would be 5 to 10 years.

We've been told that EV's will take over for 40 years and eventually they'll finally be right. But I'm not worried because when they do take over then those of us still with an ICE vehicle can enjoy plummeting gas prices from lack of demand and also pick up good used cars for cheap from those who want to move towards EV.
 
Buy the new car. You only live once and you’re risking your life and that of your mom’s driving a safety outdated car for three hour trips. I wouldn’t overthink the timing of the purchase due to inflation or any other factors. You need a new car and it makes it the perfect time.
 
Another thing to consider in buying a used vs. new car is what safety features you're giving up not getting the latest model. I just bought a new Subaru Crosstrek to replace a 2013 Hyundai Sonata which is really the first time I've bought a car when I hadn't used it at least 10 years or been forced to because of an accident. My new car has blind spot detection, adaptive cruise control (which actually drives itself, similar to Tesla), front and rear traffic alerts, auto-high beam, backup camera, and probably more i've forgotten about. My Sonata had none of them.

As we get older (this is a retiree site, after all) having these features are very important to have, at least for me. In fact, I attended an AARP webinar on how to use these new safety features and the instructor suggested leasing because you don't want to be stuck with a car when they come out with a car with a new safety feature that you really want (this was after I already purchased).
 
Having recently bought a 2018 SUV with 17k miles after researching 5+ models and test driving every one of them, I'll tell you what my best internet tools were, should you decide to shop.

For a given model, I first go to Wikipedia and understand the "generations" of the model, the major re-designs, and the "facelifts". Also might look at sales by year to see if the vehicle was trending up or down. Also, learn, or Google, the trim levels to see what trims come with what options. Come can get pretty complicated.

Then, I used to go to cars.com (see below) and search on the model and year range for the generation I was interested, and specify a stupid range from my zip code like 500 miles or more. Then use the filters, and cut down price limits, and mileage limits that are important to you. You can sort by price, mileage, distance, etc. Very useful to see what is out there. If you see things you like, pull in your distance to see if there are some near you. Depending on what you are looking for, you may or may not find them.

I was looking for a very particular trim and (trim) upgrade level, PLUS an option for towing package. Someone at a forum pointed me to autotrader.com as a better site with better search options. And I found that I could search on make, model, trim level AND upgrade, AND individual options (like towing). I started at 200 miles, then spread out to 400 and found EXACTLY what I wanted 390 miles away, for close to the price I wanted.

Rented a car last week, drove out, and drove my new SUV home. VERY happy with it.
 
I’d say get anything where you don’t mind if the resale value falls off a cliff in 5 years or so. ICE is on the way out, though this will take its own sweet time. Once battery electric is more affordable than ICE and possibly has lower insurance than ICE, expect the price of ICE vehicles to crater.
This is likely to happen with luxury vehicles. Tesla is already affecting resale values of cars like BMW and Audi. They are nearly forced to convert to meet European regulations, and don't want to sell a completely different range of vehicles in the US. Mainstream conversion in the US won't be quite so fast.

Unless I needed a dually diesel pickup to tow a motor home, I wouldn't buy a $70K vehicle with an internal combustion engine right now. As for buying a vehicle for under $40K, new or used, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Having recently bought a 2018 SUV with 17k miles after researching 5+ models and test driving every one of them, I'll tell you what my best internet tools were, should you decide to shop.

For a given model, I first go to Wikipedia and understand the "generations" of the model, the major re-designs, and the "facelifts". Also might look at sales by year to see if the vehicle was trending up or down. Also, learn, or Google, the trim levels to see what trims come with what options. Come can get pretty complicated.

Then, I used to go to cars.com (see below) and search on the model and year range for the generation I was interested, and specify a stupid range from my zip code like 500 miles or more. Then use the filters, and cut down price limits, and mileage limits that are important to you. You can sort by price, mileage, distance, etc. Very useful to see what is out there. If you see things you like, pull in your distance to see if there are some near you. Depending on what you are looking for, you may or may not find them.

I was looking for a very particular trim and (trim) upgrade level, PLUS an option for towing package. Someone at a forum pointed me to autotrader.com as a better site with better search options. And I found that I could search on make, model, trim level AND upgrade, AND individual options (like towing). I started at 200 miles, then spread out to 400 and found EXACTLY what I wanted 390 miles away, for close to the price I wanted.

Rented a car last week, drove out, and drove my new SUV home. VERY happy with it.
I like Carfax. Not only can you filter all the things you mentioned but they also include the free carfax report on every listing.
 
Great Thread. Do or do not. DW says she will never give up driving when I point out 'the Lofties' downtown who don't own/gave up cars and use Uber in town or a rental when they go on vacation.

My U Tube research says we are on the cusp of 'driverless'. DW says I'm premature to put it mildly.

Heh heh heh - when she was little they kept Bill and Barney the draft horses to the end even though the tractor did all the work. In ER still lusting for a Tesla pickup or electric Tractor (Fendt). But 168k Honda and 84k Silverado will soldier on. ? Buy or not to buy. Good Thread. ? ;)
 
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I like Carfax. Not only can you filter all the things you mentioned but they also include the free carfax report on every listing.




I hadn't used them, but checked them now. While they do list the upgrade packages (on top of the trim level) in the description for a particular car, you can't filter on it. Nor can you filter on all specific options (like Tow Package). Autotrader was the only site I found that would let you do that and it is the only reason I was able to find the particular SUV I wanted.

I also was given a link to an FCA site in a forum that allowed you to run VIN numbers and get a "build sheet" to see what options a particular car had. This was good for backchecking listings on cars.com and the like, but this was available from this particular manufacturer, not sure if others do it.

CarFax reports are very good for checking the ownership and maintenance history of cars.
 
For a given model, I first go to Wikipedia and understand the "generations" of the model, the major re-designs, and the "facelifts". Also might look at sales by year to see if the vehicle was trending up or down. Also, learn, or Google, the trim levels to see what trims come with what options. Come can get pretty complicated.

Model generations are often overlooked. Many people are unaware that a 2015 car could be exactly the same as a 2018 model and will buy the 2018 thinking that it's more advanced when in reality it just rolled off the exact same assembly line 3 years later. But the 2015 will be a lot less expensive.

Use that knowledge to your advantage.
 
My U Tube research says we are on the cusp of 'driverless'. DW says I'm premature to put it mildly.
Your DW is much more on the mark given all the edge cases that driverless cars can't handle today, much less in the near future. Plus there's no regulatory or legal liability framework at the fed level that I know of.

The EV industry has been saying this is just around the corner for at least five years now, and it has been demo'ed in limited areas. But I'd bet on driverless semis on longhaul highway routes way before I'll see driverless cars on the roads around the ATL. Longhaul trucking is so obviously good for BigCos that it's coming a lot faster IMO.
 
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Model generations are often overlooked. Many people are unaware that a 2015 car could be exactly the same as a 2018 model and will buy the 2018 thinking that it's more advanced when in reality it just rolled off the exact same assembly line 3 years later. But the 2015 will be a lot less expensive.

Use that knowledge to your advantage.


So true, and buying a "one generation old" model often get's you the best deal. The year the new generation comes out, the values of the previous one all seem to drop. So if they meet your needs, you win....
 
DW's Honda HR-V died suddenly on her while on the interstate the day before yesterday, and today we found out the exact reason. Essentially, the transmission simply disintegrated. The repair will cost about $2,000 less than the car is worth, so she's going to get rid of it and go shopping. She's super frustrated because she hadn't planned on getting a new car for at least another year or two.

Since she'll be driving my Volvo for a while until she gets her own new car, I gave her a quick test drive in it, and had to smile. Her reaction was "Wow, I can really see why you love this thing so much; it's a pure pleasure to drive!"
She's not likely to get one, but you never know.
 
DW's Honda HR-V died suddenly on her while on the interstate the day before yesterday, and today we found out the exact reason. Essentially, the transmission simply disintegrated. The repair will cost about $2,000 less than the car is worth, so she's going to get rid of it and go shopping. She's super frustrated because she hadn't planned on getting a new car for at least another year or two.

Since she'll be driving my Volvo for a while until she gets her own new car, I gave her a quick test drive in it, and had to smile. Her reaction was "Wow, I can really see why you love this thing so much; it's a pure pleasure to drive!"
She's not likely to get one, but you never know.


Rented a Volvo S60 last year, it had 1500 miles on the clock when I picked it up. Amazing car. The T6 engine is incredible. And the tech in that car, wow. Drove it from New England to FL and back, turned it in with over 5000 miles on it.
 
DW's Honda HR-V died suddenly on her while on the interstate the day before yesterday, and today we found out the exact reason. Essentially, the transmission simply disintegrated. The repair will cost about $2,000 less than the car is worth, so she's going to get rid of it and go shopping. She's super frustrated because she hadn't planned on getting a new car for at least another year or two.

How old is it and how many miles? $2000 might be a good investment if she can get another 2, 3, or 4 years out of it.
 
How old is it and how many miles? $2000 might be a good investment if she can get another 2, 3, or 4 years out of it.

No doubt, but she has lost confidence in it and wants to replace it now. Not my decision, but I understand. With 90,000 miles on it the chances of something else going bad are increased.
 
Yes, pickup trucks are a whole different animal. I have bought a few, but my needs/budget at the time dictated 8-12 year old ones.

Had a friend once who bought a brand new Golf GTI R (they only make 5000 of them every 4 years). He kept it and drove it for 8 months. Then sold it.


For $5k more than he paid for it.

You can say that again. I was looking for a used FORD F150 work truck (need the 8' bed) for my rentals and handyman work. I wanted something with less than 50k miles. Looked for two years and everything I found was all bells and whistles (lift kits, chrome rims, crew cab, dually, 4WD, Eddie Bauer, etc.) and they wanted over $25k. So finally, I bought a pretty much bare bones 2016 F150 work truck brand new (only option was power windows/locks) for $26,600. Yes, it has the crappiest engine, vinyl seats, and rubber floor mats...but that's ok with me. I've now had it 5 years and love it. I'm sure when I sell, I'll get a pretty good recovery on what I paid.
 
DW's Honda HR-V died suddenly on her while on the interstate the day before yesterday, and today we found out the exact reason. Essentially, the transmission simply disintegrated. The repair will cost about $2,000 less than the car is worth, so she's going to get rid of it and go shopping. She's super frustrated because she hadn't planned on getting a new car for at least another year or two.
I'm hearing a lot of bad news about Honda reliability in the past few years. Oil dilution problems in turbo engines seem persistent.

While automatic transmissions were never a strong point for Honda, a failure before 100K miles in a vehicle with a small engine is shocking. :eek:
 
While automatic transmissions were never a strong point for Honda, a failure before 100K miles in a vehicle with a small engine is shocking. :eek:

I agree, but the warranty was only 3 years/60,000 miles so we just had a bit of bad luck. I was a fan of Hondas (owned three CR-Vs in a row) and DW bought her HR-V based partly on my good experience and her belief that Honda was a very reliable brand. Now she wouldn't buy one under any circumstances (rightly or wrongly). Most likely the replacement will be a Toyota.
 
I agree, but the warranty was only 3 years/60,000 miles so we just had a bit of bad luck. I was a fan of Hondas (owned three CR-Vs in a row) and DW bought her HR-V based partly on my good experience and her belief that Honda was a very reliable brand. Now she wouldn't buy one under any circumstances (rightly or wrongly). Most likely the replacement will be a Toyota.
It's clear that three adults driving two cars at our house will stop working as we come out of COVID, so a replacement is on our minds.

It's my wife's turn for a car, and she is favoring Mazda. My car is newer, but has high mileage, and I'm at a loss as to what I would buy.
 
Kind of a two edged blade these days. The good side is that there is an incredible variety of choices available. The bad side is that there is an incredible variety of choices available. :LOL:
 
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