utility cart or something else

[retire-early]

I want to build my own DIY solar power system following this tutorial :

The main components are the battery and the pure sine wave inverter.

The inverter I have is about 18 pounds. The AGM battery is I am guessing about 50 pounds.

I was thinking of using an utility cart for this. Such as this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sandusk...-Cart-with-5-in-Casters-PUC174033-3/203831815


I want it to be easy to wheel to and from outside the house.

Any other better options?

.

 

[OldShooter]

.. I want it to be easy to wheel to and from outside the house. ...

Those wheels are too small for anything but paved surfaces and even then they will be a bit of a struggle to get over small obstacles like thresholds.

If it were me, I'd want wheels like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GORILLA-CARTS-4-cu-ft-Steel-Utility-Cart-GCG-2140/309542653

Regardless of the cart, be sure to load it so that the center of gravity is low. You will not be happy if the thing tips over and with lots of amp-hours in the battery things could even get exciting.

 

[retire-early]

I would like something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=vp_d_ac_sub_sp_pd?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LMH8CCS but with another shelf

 

[bjorn2bwild]

I would make an "L" shaped rack out of 3/4" plywood.

The battery sits on the floor of the "L" and the inverter/charge controller is mounted to the vertical section. Add a couple of skids to the outer ends of the bottom so a dolly(hand truck) can slide under.
Easy to move and takes little space when stored + frees up the dolly for other uses.

 

[target2019]

i have something similar to the Sanders cart. But I don't know if that material will last under external weather conditions.

 

[Walt34]

Gorilla also makes a dump cart in either four cubic feet or seven cubic feet size:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GORILLA...REC-_-pipinstock-_-305093233-_-309521793-_-N&

 

[travelover]

I'd just use a 2 wheeled hand cart. Put the battery on the bottom ledge and mount the inverter on the vertical portion. LINK

 

[pb4uski]

Something else.

I think a golf pull cart might work. Wheels will be big and wide. Around here you can buy one at Goodwill for ~$15.

You could build a plywood frame for the battery and components and then fasten the plywood frame to the pull cart.
Th

 

[bjorn2bwild]

Something else.

I think a golf pull cart might work. Wheels will be big and wide. Around here you can buy one at Goodwill for ~$15.

You could build a plywood frame for the battery and components and then fasten the plywood frame to the pull cart.

The golf cart is an interesting concept if the idea is to include a PV panel, making a self contained mobile unit that can be oriented for best solar gain. Although it will have a big footprint when stored.

 

[folivier]

What do you want to power with a 100 amp panel and a single battery?
It will give you lights but won't power your fridge and freezer overnight. These will take 100+ amphours of batteries and then you have to replace the charge during the day. That 100 amp panel will put out 7 amps/hour max. So if you get good sun for 10 hours you'll only replace 70 amps into your battery. But your fridge and freezer will still be consuming amps. BTW an AGM or any other lead acid battery should only be drawn down to 50-60% charge level so that single battery only gives you 40-50 amphours.

 

[retire-early]

I'd just use a 2 wheeled hand cart. Put the battery on the bottom ledge and mount the inverter on the vertical portion. LINK

That's what I have seen done on Youtube.
They had a piece of plywood mounted somehow in the vertical position.

What do you want to power with a 100 amp panel and a single battery?
It will give you lights but won't power your fridge and freezer overnight. These will take 100+ amphours of batteries and then you have to replace the charge during the day. That 100 amp panel will put out 7 amps/hour max. So if you get good sun for 10 hours you'll only replace 70 amps into your battery. But your fridge and freezer will still be consuming amps. BTW an AGM or any other lead acid battery should only be drawn down to 50-60% charge level so that single battery only gives you 40-50 amphours.

I really should buy a Kill-A-Watt and see what my refrigerator draws in 24 hours.

The AGM is heavy as well. About 60+ pounds.
The more expensive LiFePO4 batteries weight half as much and can withstand going down to 10% but are 4x as expensive.


For getting over threshold, I have seen curb ramps https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Mortorcycle-Pick-up-Trucks-Scooters/dp/B074V4M8JD

 

[folivier]

Another thing to get maximum power you'll have to move it throughout the day to keep the optimum sun angle. Not trying to dissuade you but just pointing out the reality. I have 400 watts solar with 300 amphours of LiFePO4 BattleBorn batteries in my motorhome and it is adequate for our uses but we have a propane fridge. Other friends who have a residential fridge have 1200+ watts solar and more battery capacity.
But if all you want is lights and possibly a fan and charging phones this small system should work.

 

[OldShooter]

@retire-early, often the way we frame a question precludes options that turn out to be the best. In this case, had your question indicated that you were trying to solve the problem of a temporary loss of electricity I think you'd have gotten much different answers.

As @foliver implicitly points out, a solar system sufficient to power a house during a loss of commercial power is a very expensive solution that would go unused 99+% of the time. The more common and cost-effective solution is to have a portable generator with a respected USA brand. Info here: https://generatoradvisor.com/refrigerator-freezer/

Level 1 solution is to simply run an extension cord from the generator (outside) to the fridge, maybe also plugging in some lighting (preferably LED). This wil almost certainly be cheaper than the solar path you are considering.

Level 2 solution is to install a transfer panel and an outside connection, running a cord (when needed) from the gensrator to the outside connection. This is what I have done for our city house. It was fairly cheap because I could do the component procurement and installation myself. I have a 5500watt Homelite generator.

Level 3 is to permanently mount the generator and hard wire it to a transfer panel. This is what I have at our lake home where the power is less reliable and outages can be days. There I have a 13.6kw generator with a Kohler industrial 4-cylinder motor. That is overkill, but I bought it new in the spring of Y2K for about 20% of list price. (Not 20% off, 20% of)

Level 3a adds automatic start/stop and transfer. Generac is the share leader here but Kohler is also an important player. https://www.generac.com/all-product...kup-generators#?cat=6&cat=214&cat=217&cat=249 and KOHLER Generators | Generators | Products | Home Generators

Frosting on the cake: 1) LP or natural gas fuel. No worry about elderly gasoline sitting unused in the tank. Our lake home generator is hooked up to a 100# LP tank and there is always one spare tank available. 2) Electric start. Close to mandatory IMO for any but the smallest generators operated by an un-athletic old fart like me.

If your problem really is occasional loss of commercial power, IMO PV solar is not the right solution.

 

[retire-early]

@retire-early, often the way we frame a question precludes options that turn out to be the best. In this case, had your question indicated that you were trying to solve the problem of a temporary loss of electricity I think you'd have gotten much different answers.

As @foliver implicitly points out, a solar system sufficient to power a house during a loss of commercial power is a very expensive solution that would go unused 99+% of the time. The more common and cost-effective solution is to have a portable generator with a respected USA brand. Info here: https://generatoradvisor.com/refrigerator-freezer/

Level 1 solution is to simply run an extension cord from the generator (outside) to the fridge, maybe also plugging in some lighting (preferably LED). This wil almost certainly be cheaper than the solar path you are considering.

Level 2 solution is to install a transfer panel and an outside connection, running a cord (when needed) from the gensrator to the outside connection. This is what I have done for our city house. It was fairly cheap because I could do the component procurement and installation myself. I have a 5500watt Homelite generator.

Level 3 is to permanently mount the generator and hard wire it to a transfer panel. This is what I have at our lake home where the power is less reliable and outages can be days. There I have a 13.6kw generator with a Kohler industrial 4-cylinder motor. That is overkill, but I bought it new in the spring of Y2K for about 20% of list price. (Not 20% off, 20% of)

Level 3a adds automatic start/stop and transfer. Generac is the share leader here but Kohler is also an important player. https://www.generac.com/all-product...kup-generators#?cat=6&cat=214&cat=217&cat=249 and KOHLER Generators | Generators | Products | Home Generators

Frosting on the cake: 1) LP or natural gas fuel. No worry about elderly gasoline sitting unused in the tank. Our lake home generator is hooked up to a 100# LP tank and there is always one spare tank available. 2) Electric start. Close to mandatory IMO for any but the smallest generators operated by an un-athletic old fart like me.

If your problem really is occasional loss of commercial power, IMO PV solar is not the right solution.

I want to build a minimal solar generator just like in the video.
That is it.
Learning exercise for fun.

Part of this exercise is deciding how to place the parts in a compact moveable configuration.

 

[travelover]

.........I really should buy a Kill-A-Watt and see what my refrigerator draws in 24 hours.........

Powering a refrigerator or air conditioner from an inverter is tricky because the initial surge load is multiple times the running load. So, it takes a big battery and a big inverter to get it started, even if a smaller battery and inverter would run it once it is started.


I think a small inverter generator ($500-ish) is a much more practical solution. Champion sells one that runs on gasoline or propane so you can just keep a bottle of propane around with the generator and never worry about gas going bad.

 

[target2019]

I want to build a minimal solar generator just like in the video.
That is it.
Learning exercise for fun.

Part of this exercise is deciding how to place the parts in a compact moveable configuration.

How much wheeling around we talking about? I think most reading the thread are thinking of stationary in-use systems. But your use case may be for emergency situations?

Does all of the equipment stay together?

 

[retire-early]

How much wheeling around we talking about? I think most reading the thread are thinking of stationary in-use systems. But your use case may be for emergency situations?

Does all of the equipment stay together?

The equipment has to stay together.
The wheeling is to wheel it outside to where the solar panels are so that the battery can get charged.

 

[retire-early]

I think a small inverter generator ($500-ish) is a much more practical solution. Champion sells one that runs on gasoline or propane so you can just keep a bottle of propane around with the generator and never worry about gas going bad.

The thing I have heard about generators is that you need to "maintain" it even if you don't use. I am not sure how accurate that is.

Do you own the Champion?

EDIT
Reading the comments, this model won't be manufactured anymore. Only the 3400W unit will be.

.