Problem: little box was no longer attached to washer frame because of rust.
Solution: Use tape to cause permanent contact between metal tab and little box.
Maybe a bit of epoxy is better to keep the safety interlock functional?
It so happens that I also fixed my dryer earlier today.
Among the first appliances that we bought when we got married 28 years ago were a pair of Kenmore washer/dryer.
I fixed the washer once about 5 years ago. It was a worn-out belt that drove the pump. Last month, another mechanical problem developed. The motor ran, but nothing happened. Water pumping, but no agitating, no spinning. When I turned it over to look, some rusty parts fell out of the bottom. I decided to let it go.
Went to a Sears outlet that sold discontinued models. Brought home another Kenmore after paying less than $300 (tax included, about the same as we paid 28 years ago). If it lasts as long as its older brother, we may not outlive it.
The dryer still runs. Had to replace the belt once, about 3 years ago. Quit again last week. Motor not running. Today, I looked in the back, found problem immediately. There was a connector block, where the power cord wires made electrical contact with the internal wiring. Crimp terminals were used on all wire ends. Crimp connections developed high resistance after nearly 3 decades, burned to a crisp. One wire end even melted! That's how it stopped working.
Solution: Discarded terminal block. Cut away all crimp terminals, twisted and soldered all connections. Put double layer of heat shrink tubes over connections. Will see if it lasts another decade.
Do they still make them like they used to? Dunno, since we are still on our 1st dryer, and just started our 2nd washer.
