Build quotes for new 2 car garage

[427Vette]

Just for comparison I am just now starting to build a 52’X104’ with 16’ sidewalls. It will have 3 20’ wide by 14’ high insulated garage doors, floor heat, full bathroom etc. I am doing the plumbing, heating and electrical myself. The building materials price two years ago was $75K. Now it is $120K. I am going to have $210K in it when completed.

 

[skyking1]

I want the next shop to look like a barn. We are country people, love a good barn. I am thinking a gambrel barn roof with shed dormers like this for the loft.

I'd do this on the southern exposure, and leave the north roof alone. That would be the high bay for the RV and have only a small loft above. The main loft would be set up as an apartment above the wood and metal shops. Board and batten siding and standing seam metal roof.
Build it first and then move in while building a craftsman styled rambler.

I really love a gothic roof barn but there is no way to tastefully put windows or skylights in it.
It would be blasphemy

 

[doneat54]

I can only say the price of materials is not helping you out. Do agree the local contractor seems a good choice. Interior is just going to be the bare studs for now? Then you are going to add additional electric and insulation before fishing out the walls? Ceiling or open to the trusses? All of the interior finishing takes materials and labor. Conventional stick built is easier for DIY interior work as all of the materials needed are standard. Even if you do not have the contractor install it, have the HVAC pre-plumbed if you are going to eventually do that. Consider having the contractor put the ceiling in and use LED lighting. Installing a ceiling is tough work, much more than walls. Another consideration is wall height, I think at least 10 ft is nice, 12 even better. 8 ft is just too short if you want to do anything other than park stuff, not good for working.

Highly recommend to put as much insulation as you can, it pays off in both cold and hot temps by moderating the inside temps. Cost differential for 2x6 vs 2x4 walls is not much. Also consider the fact that extra width or length is the cheapest way to get increased storage and space. Keeping intervals at 4 ft lengths is better for use of materials. No matter what, as soon as you build it you will wish it was bigger

If you haven't already been on the site, www.garagejournal.com has lots of discussion for garages and ideas. Check it out.

I have a 50x70 with 16 ft walls detached garage. I did most of the interior finishing work: lots of extra electrical, built a mezzanine 8x40, built lot of shelves, big workbench and pegboard area, added air lines all around shop, enclosed the walls, installed heater, and many smaller items. Lot of work, but it saved me considerable doing all the interior work myself. Contractor did the white painted metal ceiling and lighting since that is 16 ft height. Also have a 1/2 bath in the garage, very nice for cleanup or bathroom needs without having to go into house. I keep my motorhome inside (out of weather and no winterizing), and all my old cars along with my car working area. Feel very fortunate to have it all set up. Kind of a long term fulfillment of ideas and plans.

So the thought is that if I can get it built this year, late summer early fall latest, I can get the electrical set up the way I want, then insulate and probably do the lower 4' in plywood myself (on a 12" kneewall +sill boards), then I might farm out the drywall before winter hits. I actually have a drywall lift, but that kind of stuff, high over a cement floor, I'll pay some one to do. Will probably do air lines as well, I have big upright Quincy compressor that will get relocated there.

I am trying to replicate, to some degree, what I have in our existing main home; a 24x24 shop with workbenches (30' worth) upright air compressor, shelving, etc, but also a workbench space that I have in our basement here for other work that can be done year round without extra heating (that's the rear workshop in the new garage).

HVAC plan is to place the furnace in the back shop against the garage space wall with a top hat plenum like I have now, and a shutterable vent into the garage space. Need for heated garage space will be limited to whatever car work I need to do in the winter. This property has a 24'x55' 120 year old barn with 3 levels, but basement level is low ceiling height and dirt floor. OKfor car storage, but not car work.

I will wire for LED lighting. I have the Barrina 4' sticks in the woodshop in the barn now. Great light, about $45 for 6 sticks and all the interconnect cables and brackets. Have 9.5' ceilings in the home shop now, and it is perfectly adequate. No RVs, big vehicles or lifts.

Thought is that unlike the home shop, most of the garage will be for car storage, a modest workbench area and most of the hand tools, but the real workspace will be in the workshop behind. I'd like to keep it so I can put 3 vehicles in the garage if I have too with one across the back. Fortunately my 3 vintage cars are fairly small.


With the huge barn, I have ZERO use for lofts, or above ceiling storage space in a new garage, so not paying for that.

So mentally, as much as spending that much money on this garage is, I am getting closer to committing to it. The phone call with the contractor Monday should be the go/no go point. All of your inputs and experience in this thread has been helpful. Lots of man caves/she sheds out there!

 

[ERD50]

Could be a local code, not sure. I still wouldn't want a slab. I'm sure others have had good luck with them, but I've seen enough cracked foundations and frost heaving, I'll pay the extra for that.

My 20+ year old garage slab in the Canadian prairies is crack free as well as my parent's 35 year garage slab, and we're in about as harsh a climate as you can find anywhere on the planet.

It's all about the quality of the pour.

I dunno. Here in N-IL, my previous home's garage had a foundation for the walls, but not across the garage door opening. Every winter, the garage floor would heave at the opening, and I'd need to adjust the garage door so it wouldn't hit the raised floor and go back up (the safety mechanism).

When we had an addition put on, and they had to do some concrete work, the contractor asked if I'd like that fixed. They dug a trench, added a footing, and problem solved.

-ERD50

 

[skyking1]

My garage has that footing. We don't have the frost here though. It was more for the alternate shear wall design.

 

[wmc1000]

I will wire for LED lighting. I have the Barrina 4' sticks in the woodshop in the barn now. Great light, about $45 for 6 sticks and all the interconnect cables and brackets. Have 9.5' ceilings in the home shop now, and it is perfectly adequate. No RVs, big vehicles or lifts.

doneat54, I have been scouring the net trying to decide on led shop lights for my building that is going to be erected this month. Will have 12' ceiling height.

How long have you had the Barrina lights? I was looking at these 2 choices - https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-27000lm-Lighting-Fixture-Integrated/dp/B083S8LCZF or https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-5000LM-Daylight-Output-Linkable/dp/B07RKZFD5Z?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1and wondering how they would work spaced at 4' intervals between the fixtures?

 

[doneat54]

donoteat54, I have been scouring the net trying to decide on led shop lights for my building that is going to be erected this month. Will have 12' ceiling height.

How long have you had the Barrina lights? I was looking at these 2 choices - https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-27000lm-Lighting-Fixture-Integrated/dp/B083S8LCZF or https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-5000LM-Daylight-Output-Linkable/dp/B07RKZFD5Z?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1and wondering how they would work spaced at 4' intervals between the fixtures?

I've had the Barrina's like in your links in my main home shop for 3-4 years now, no problems. Some are on the ceiling, and some under the lowest shelf on the wall above the workbench.

In the wood shop in the barn at the lake, I have these:

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integrated-Fixture-Utility-Electric/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=sr_1_2

But the ceiling there is like 7.5', they work very well with that, but I'd think with a 12' ceiling might not be best.

I also have in my shop at the main house a couple "high bay" LED lights like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Hykolity-Ind...orescent-Equivalent/dp/B071R1Y4VM/ref=sr_1_17

The ones I bought were even brighter, and more expensive than those. I think around $150 each and stupid bright. I have them on a second switch/circuit and turn them on only when I need them. They are designed for high ceilings. I'd get those if I had a 12' high ceiling.

 

[38Chevy454]

donoteat54, I have been scouring the net trying to decide on led shop lights for my building that is going to be erected this month. Will have 12' ceiling height.

How long have you had the Barrina lights? I was looking at these 2 choices - https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-27000lm-Lighting-Fixture-Integrated/dp/B083S8LCZF or https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-5000LM-Daylight-Output-Linkable/dp/B07RKZFD5Z?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1and wondering how they would work spaced at 4' intervals between the fixtures?

I use those T5 4 ft lights on the underside of my mezzanine area that is also my workbench and fabrication type area. Great lights for cheap. I have them linked together in a line with 4-5 lights per circuit, with 3 circuits for different area. I bought mine cheap off ebay, in a big box of like 25 light fixtures. I also used these same lights for better lighting in my house attached garage, and in my basement storage area. Way better than the (cheap mostly ineffective) simple screw in bulb fixtures that were put in by builder.


My detached garage I have [-]16[/-] (edit) 12 of these big LED lights, great lighting throughout the garage. They are almost too bright to look at directly, but great lighting down at floor level:
https://www.beeslighting.com/LHB-110W-U-50K-D10

 

[latexman]

75000/24/34 = $92/sq. ft. and no land. Seems high, but NASDAQ Lumber futures are at a 10 year high.

Can you wait? The contractors are scared of the material prices.

 

[skyking1]

Have 9.5' ceilings in the home shop now

That is a good balance. Still high enough for most projects but low enough to heat quickly and efficiently.

 

[pb4uski]

.... The contractors are scared of the material prices.

When we rebuilt our house in 2011/2012 we paid for materials separate from labor. The contractor's bill each month would include copies of all the bills from the lumber yard that he used related to our build at his price plus an amount for labor for the month for him and his helper. We had a maximum amount for labor for the whole build and they met it just as they were finishing the project.

If a contractor is giving you a fixed price estimate then he is likely to be conservative with respect to materials cost so he doesn't take it on the chin.

 

[mountainsoft]

My wife and I built our own 24'x28' detached garage in 2001. We did all the work ourselves, except for the interior concrete slab. Total cost was $13K. That included a 2' high perimeter stemwall foundation, with 8' high walls (resulting in just under 10' of headroom). Full electrical and insulation, with a large storage attic. Pictures of our progress at:

2001 - Building Our Garage

Even if you double the materials costs, and double again for labor, that should put you around the $52K range today. If you're not insulating or finishing the interior, I would think it would cost less. There's not much to a garage.

If you choose a monolithic slab (footings and slab are one pour), make sure the siding overlaps the slab by at least an inch or so water doesn't come in from outside. That said, I would NOT choose a monolithic slab. For one it puts the wood siding and framing too close to the ground. Second, if you have snow/water run off from the cars, or if you wash down the garage floor, the framing and/or sheetrock will get wet inside leading to rot, mold, etc. Having a perimeter concrete foundation raises the siding/sheetrock off the ground, and increases the headroom inside the garage.

I did not put any foam board insulation under my slab. I knew I wouldn't be spending a lot of time in the garage, so it was an unnecessary expense. If I had the extra money it would have been nice, but I don't miss it. On the upside, on a hot summer day it stays in the 50's-60's in the garage from the ground contact.

I chose fibermesh reinforcement in our floor slab instead of rebar or wire mesh. 20 years later and only one tiny hairline crack (visible, but can't feel it). The finishing guy didn't like the fibermesh, but I'm glad I made that choice.

 

[pb4uski]

....If you choose a monolithic slab (footings and slab are one pour), make sure the siding overlaps the slab by at least an inch or so water doesn't come in from outside. That said, I would NOT choose a monolithic slab. For one it puts the wood siding and framing too close to the ground. Second, if you have snow/water run off from the cars, or if you wash down the garage floor, the framing and/or sheetrock will get wet inside leading to rot, mold, etc. ...

Never a problem for me... my 24x28 monolithic slab has a center drain so all the water heads away from the outside perimeter towards the drain. The OCB that I used for the inside walls might get wet if I'm hosing down the garage floor and am sloppy about it, but if it does get wet it dries quickly. IMO if your inside walls are getting wet it is more due to poor design/drainage and not because you have a monolithic slab.

For the outside it also isn't an issue as the land grades away from the outside walls, even at the garage door in that the driveway is a slight incline to get into the garage.

 

[mountainsoft]

Never a problem for me... my 24x28 monolithic slab has a center drain so all the water heads away from the outside perimeter towards the drain. The OCB that I used for the inside walls might get wet if I'm hosing down the garage floor and am sloppy about it, but if it does get wet it dries quickly. IMO if your inside walls are getting wet it is more due to poor design/drainage and not because you have a monolithic slab.

For the outside it also isn't an issue as the land grades away from the outside walls, even at the garage door in that the driveway is a slight incline to get into the garage.

Interesting, I haven't seen a slab with a center drain (not that I see that many). Usually it's a flat slab sloped slightly to the doors, with no drain. Your drain probably works fine for runoff from the vehicles (probably better than the long slope to the door), but I would still want a bit of a curb inside for washing down the floor. Just my personal preference.

As for exterior, I don't like seeing wood any closer than 12" from the soil, even if there are gutters and the ground slopes away. There's still a bit of splash back that can rot away the siding over time, or make it dirty at the very least. Of course, there's no reason you couldn't have a taller monolithic slab that gives you that clearance from the ground. Most of the slabs I've seen are rather shallow with only a few inches between dirt and wood, most likely for cost savings. I have seen people add a course of brick or blocks on top of the slab to gain the extra clearance.

One other advantage of keeping the interior slab separate from the perimeter foundation is if it settles or cracks. I hope I never need to, but theoretically I could have my slab torn out and replaced with the garage in place.

 

[Winemaker]

My 26'x26' slab has 2 floor drains, which would be to catch drainage off 2 cars, one each side. My floor also was cut in half both directions, so that if heaving or movement would occur, it would "break" on that cut line. No issues after 12 years.

 

[Errollyn]

Just for comparison, we had a 30 x 30 ft pole barn garage built in 2018 (in the US Midwest). Two vinyl windows, one man door, no insulation, and metal siding and roof. This is what I spent:

Site excavation: $2,000
Rock: $570
Permits: $400
Slab and garage build: $24,700
Garage doors: $2900
Finishing (shelves, electrical, lighting, workbenches): $3680
TOTAL: $34,250

I'm extremely happy with it. At this point I don't think I'd do the garage differently.

 

[ponyboy]

I have a friends who's father had a 2 car garage built around 3 years ago. I think it cost him $45k, didnt include electrical, drywall or insulation. Just the slab, walls, roof, shingles and siding. They got taken to the cleaners.

Kicker was, the person who won the contract subbed almost everything out. He did the foundation, subbed out the slab. The walls came pre built, so they set them in place and bolted them down. Trusses were put up, roof on in two days, then some siding and windows. The contractor who "did" the work make $10k+ for making a few phone calls. WHat a racket.

 

[street]

My wife and I built our own 24'x28' detached garage in 2001. We did all the work ourselves, except for the interior concrete slab. Total cost was $13K. That included a 2' high perimeter stemwall foundation, with 8' high walls (resulting in just under 10' of headroom). Full electrical and insulation, with a large storage attic. Pictures of our progress at:

2001 - Building Our Garage

Even if you double the materials costs, and double again for labor, that should put you around the $52K range today. If you're not insulating or finishing the interior, I would think it would cost less. There's not much to a garage.

If you choose a monolithic slab (footings and slab are one pour), make sure the siding overlaps the slab by at least an inch or so water doesn't come in from outside. That said, I would NOT choose a monolithic slab. For one it puts the wood siding and framing too close to the ground. Second, if you have snow/water run off from the cars, or if you wash down the garage floor, the framing and/or sheetrock will get wet inside leading to rot, mold, etc. Having a perimeter concrete foundation raises the siding/sheetrock off the ground, and increases the headroom inside the garage.

I did not put any foam board insulation under my slab. I knew I wouldn't be spending a lot of time in the garage, so it was an unnecessary expense. If I had the extra money it would have been nice, but I don't miss it. On the upside, on a hot summer day it stays in the 50's-60's in the garage from the ground contact.

I chose fibermesh reinforcement in our floor slab instead of rebar or wire mesh. 20 years later and only one tiny hairline crack (visible, but can't feel it). The finishing guy didn't like the fibermesh, but I'm glad I made that choice.

Outstanding job!
If I was in need to have a garage, I still would tackle the project. I might have it shingled by someone else but would love to do another build.

 

[Music Lover]

I have a friends who's father had a 2 car garage built around 3 years ago. I think it cost him $45k, didnt include electrical, drywall or insulation. Just the slab, walls, roof, shingles and siding. They got taken to the cleaners.

Kicker was, the person who won the contract subbed almost everything out. He did the foundation, subbed out the slab. The walls came pre built, so they set them in place and bolted them down. Trusses were put up, roof on in two days, then some siding and windows. The contractor who "did" the work make $10k+ for making a few phone calls. WHat a racket.

I built my 24' x 28' garage entirely myself other than subbing out the slab. I had friends help move the trusses in place and put on 90% of the roof and wall sheathing which took a day. I secured each piece with 6 or 8 nails just to hold in place to maximize the help. I spent the next day putting in the rest of the nails and filling in smaller pieces that didn't get done.

At the time (late 90's) it cost about $10k. It took me about a month but that included a lot of down time and days off....had I worked 8 hour days it would have taken a couple weeks.

Lesson learned: 2 weeks of DIY labour saved me $10k after tax money. At the time it took me almost 4 months to net $10k at my job.

 

[doneat54]

Never a problem for me... my 24x28 monolithic slab has a center drain so all the water heads away from the outside perimeter towards the drain.

Not allowed by code here. They have to slope the floor 1/4" per foot towards the garage doors. This is in case there is a fuel leak from a car that it won't pool inside the structure.

 

[Bamaman]

An HVAC alternative might be to use a PTAC unit like they use in hotels. They're very inexpensive and come in sizes plenty enough for a garage. Best thing is the easy installations--put a jacket thru the wall, slip the unit in and plug it in.

I had a PTAC unit in a 16' x 32' den, and it would cool the room from hot to 70 degrees in just a few minutes. Saved me big on a/c and heating because I'd keep it cut off completely during work hours.

 

[pb4uski]

Not allowed by code here. They have to slope the floor 1/4" per foot towards the garage doors. This is in case there is a fuel leak from a car that it won't pool inside the structure.

While I believe you, it sounds like a pretty daft reason to disallow center drains.... how often does a gasoline leak of that severity happen? Never in 50 years of cars for me.

 

[REWahoo]

An HVAC alternative might be to use a PTAC unit like they use in hotels. They're very inexpensive and come in sizes plenty enough for a garage. Best thing is the easy installations--put a jacket thru the wall, slip the unit in and plug it in.

I had a PTAC unit in a 16' x 32' den, and it would cool the room from hot to 70 degrees in just a few minutes. Saved me big on a/c and heating because I'd keep it cut off completely during work hours.

^This.

We had a screened porch connecting our house to our garage. We had it enclosed and converted it to a playroom for our grandkids using a PTAC unit for heating and cooling. It has worked great and, like Bamaman, we only run the unit when we want to use the room.

 

[Music Lover]

While I believe you, it sounds like a pretty daft reason to disallow center drains.... how often does s gasoline leak of that severity happen? Never in 50 years of cars for me.

Yeah, gas leaks are rare. But a sloping floor helps when the car is soaked with rain water or when there's snow melt.

 

[pb4uski]

But a center drain is even better because the rain water and melt drain to the center rather than to the garage door with the risk of getting wicked up by the exterior walls if the exterior walls are on slab.