Repair Car or buy new one?

[Bigdawg]

Seems like most of you missed the point I was trying to make regarding technology. The OBD reader is suppose to tell you what's wrong with your car. In the 2 instances I referenced it did not. #1. It said bad mass air flow sensor. Tunrns out that was not the problem. #2. Transmission shift solenoid. That was wrong also.

Years ago my wife had a GMC Acadia. There are wheel speed sensors that when the car goes over 5 MPH they send a signal to lock the doors. The plastic cam to auto lock the doors at 5 MPH was cracked. So doors no lock car no go. What actually happens is that the car will go until you stop at a light or stop sign while in drive. When you take your foot off the brake the car will not move. A master mechanic friend and myself trouble shot this thing for literally weeks. He still uses that suv to tinker and train mechanics. That was 4 years ago.

 

[kgtest]

My car needs new tires and new brakes. I think both of these will cost about $1,200. Or more. Car has 50k miles on it and is a simple reliable compact car. I think it could easily last another 50k miles after new tires and brakes.

The trade in value on the car is $5,500. Realistically, it's probably the more frugal choice to just make the repairs, but at what point does it make sense to buy a new car? If my car is worth $5,500 and I put in $1,200, that's 22% of the car's value.

I was looking at some slightly used cars online with like 15k miles on them. Presumably the tires on those cars would be good until about 50k miles, but I guess it all depends on the car.

I only drive about 5k miles a year, so do I:

A) fix my car and only spend $1,200 and be done with it and not have to deal with any major repairs/replacements for quite a while, until the car would be 15+ years old
OR
B) trade in my car, put down $10-15k out of pocket (in addition to trade in value), and buy a gently used car with 15k miles and not have to do any work to it (ideally.....) for 7 years.

I'm sure there are threads out there on this, but just something I've been giving thought to lately Curious to hear the ER community's thoughts.

Obviously there are unforeseen things that can come up, so maybe I am looking at this too naively....

I just paid $400 for new Truck Tires, with white walls, installed with a warranty from Wal-Mart with free LIFETIME rotation. I used Wal-Mart.com to order and saved another 5% since that was the category for rewards on my CC.

I bought new rotors AND brake pads for both the front AND back for like $150. I put those on myself but even so... I think your math is off a bit.


I bring my vehicles in for oil changes and they inspect all of this stuff on a regular basis and always forewarn me when things look bad. For instance they said my rear pads in truck are at 50% and the brake fluid is getting a little dirty. So i can expect to fix those 2 things shortly. They mentioned that the battery on my car CCA had depleted a bit...but its still starting the car. I know if I keep running a depleted battery, it will eventually cost me a starter...don't ask how I know this.

 

[REWahoo]

I just paid $400 for new Truck Tires, with white walls...

Better check the mfg date to be sure they aren't left overs from the 1980's.

 

[jazz4cash]

Seems like most of you missed the point I was trying to make regarding technology. The OBD reader is suppose to tell you what's wrong with your car. In the 2 instances I referenced it did not. #1. It said bad mass air flow sensor. Tunrns out that was not the problem. #2. Transmission shift solenoid. That was wrong also.



Years ago my wife had a GMC Acadia. There are wheel speed sensors that when the car goes over 5 MPH they send a signal to lock the doors. The plastic cam to auto lock the doors at 5 MPH was cracked. So doors no lock car no go. What actually happens is that the car will go until you stop at a light or stop sign while in drive. When you take your foot off the brake the car will not move. A master mechanic friend and myself trouble shot this thing for literally weeks. He still uses that suv to tinker and train mechanics. That was 4 years ago.

OBD codes don’t work that way and I think you really do know this already. A code indicating mass airflow sensor does not mean the sensor is bad. It means the computer detects a problem with the CIRCUIT. It could be the sensor or it could be wires, connector, signal, ground, etc. it could also be dirt. You really need a troubleshooting diagnostic chart to rule out the possible causes (usually starting with the cheapest easiest fix). I’ve been down that road with the CRC cleaner and had the same results as you.

 

[Looking4Ward]

My almost five year old Jeep Wrangler has 78K on it. I change the oil myself every 8K miles, it's on it's second set of tires, and aside from some warranty items the first year and $500 to replace a leaking radiator at 39K miles, I haven't had to do anything else.

Plus, it's paid for.

I wouldn't hesitate one minute to put new tires and brakes on a car in otherwise good condition with only 50K miles on it.

 

[Scrapr]

Better check the mfg date to be sure they aren't left overs from the 1980's.

I know...$400 for a set? That's outrageous

*probably bias ply

 

[Texas Proud]

Seems like most of you missed the point I was trying to make regarding technology. The OBD reader is suppose to tell you what's wrong with your car. In the 2 instances I referenced it did not. #1. It said bad mass air flow sensor. Tunrns out that was not the problem. #2. Transmission shift solenoid. That was wrong also.

Years ago my wife had a GMC Acadia. There are wheel speed sensors that when the car goes over 5 MPH they send a signal to lock the doors. The plastic cam to auto lock the doors at 5 MPH was cracked. So doors no lock car no go. What actually happens is that the car will go until you stop at a light or stop sign while in drive. When you take your foot off the brake the car will not move. A master mechanic friend and myself trouble shot this thing for literally weeks. He still uses that suv to tinker and train mechanics. That was 4 years ago.

I get your point but I think you are not thinking about what it means.... the code is telling you that the part is sending a code that there is something wrong, not that the part is broken... you are saying it said a bad mass but that is NOT what the code says.... from the web...

Code P0101 Meaning. The mass air flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine. Check engine light code P0101 is set when the measurement of air entering the engine by the mass air flow sensor is outside of the manufacturer’s specified range.
​

IOW, the first one is saying the mass air sensor is not in range, go through the checklist of things that can make it 'not work'... I bet if you get one of those big books it will have you check out all the components... probably the same for the second... it never said it was broken...






Edit to add.... found this link... https://www.fixdapp.com/blog/p0101-code


Causes of Code P0101

• Dirty, obstructed, or faulty mass air flow sensor
• Damaged or disconnected air intake boot (snorkel)
• Vacuum leak
• Clogged or improperly installed air filter
• Clogged catalytic converter / restricted exhaust

 

[kgtest]

Just an update. We finally took delivery on our Camry SE yesterday. Sold the old Camry LE that had 200,000 miles for $5,700 and bought the new Camry for $30,000 after tax title and fees. Seemed like a lot for a 4cyl car, but I guess with inflation and supply chain/labor shortages it makes sense. We looked at Honda and Hyndai and they were a little more expensive for a very comparable car.

All in all we are happy with the car, and it's much more sporty than the last Camry we owned. 18" polished aluminum black rims, nice big Infotainment screen that supports android auto and AirPlay so we can get our iphone and android maps right on the big screen rather than looking at the little phone like we were doing. The DW likes the backup camera, especially since our house seems to be the hangout zone after school. Will be nice to see if their are kids or objects behind us.

The homelink mirror is convenient so now we don't need to carry our garage door opener in the car. The verdict is still out on the Softex leatherish seats. I was told for $600 we can have heated seats installed somehow, we might look into that. And it appears with the 18" rims and lower profile tires, I may need to buy a second pair of tires/rims for winter driving since I can already tell these likely won't cut it in blizzards.

Took over 60 days from the time we were "allocated' the car until we took delivery. Interest rates went up from 1.89% to 1.99% in that time. We decided to finance $14k and paid cash for the rest.

Overall the buying experience was fine. Basically, the dealer doesn't get to pick which cars get built, neither does the customer. Instead, the plant looks around at what parts and paint they have available at the time and builds cars, then the dealer gets allocated cars to sell. That has caused some local dealers to "team up" so that they have a wider range of vehicles to sell. I asked and they said they currently had a 100 car backlog of cars that customer's are waiting to buy that are not yet available.

They stopped short of trying to sell me all the extra undercoatings, clear coats, extended warranties etc etc. The person tasked with that sat down in the chair, asked me one question and then looked at me and said "I can tell you will say no to everything is that correct?" It made the process a bit quicker. Obviously our economy and sales is built on "upgrades and add-ons" , it's the american way...but they all knew I just wanted the basics. I spent a total of 1 hour at the dealership, mainly waiting for the title guy to free up as there was a line of 5 people ahead of me.

Hopefully this car lasts us a good 9 to 10 years. Maybe longer if I we hand it down to DS who will be driving in 9 years.

Glad it's all over and we can keep movin forward again.

 

[old medic]

Seems like most of you missed the point I was trying to make regarding technology. The OBD reader is suppose to tell you what's wrong with your car.

Bascially spent about $60 when I should have spent less than 10 if I had just trouble shot like I used to.

Thats way I work on my own stuff most of the time.... to many shops start with OBD scan and R&R parts before doing a basic check... And I do have a scan tool.

Our stuff I maintain and fix till the wheels nearly fall off.... then sometimes fix them too... We have had several vehicles 350K+

 

[REWahoo]

Just an update. We finally took delivery on our Camry SE yesterday. Sold the old Camry LE that had 200,000 miles for $5,700 and bought the new Camry for $30,000 after tax title and fees. Seemed like a lot for a 4cyl car, but I guess with inflation and supply chain/labor shortages it makes sense.

I'm not sure it makes sense but it is reality in today's car market.

I recently traded a 2014 Highlander for a 2021 and I'm reasonably sure whoever purchased it from the dealership paid right at $25K for it when all was said and done. It was on their lot for less than a week. That's a ridiculous price for an 8 year old Toyota.

All in all we are happy with the car, and it's much more sporty than the last Camry we owned.

Would have loved to buy a Camry, but it is now so "sporty" that it's difficult for us more seasoned folk to extricate ourselves from it once we arrive at our destination.

Overall the buying experience was fine. Basically, the dealer doesn't get to pick which cars get built, neither does the customer. Instead, the plant looks around at what parts and paint they have available at the time and builds cars, then the dealer gets allocated cars to sell. That has caused some local dealers to "team up" so that they have a wider range of vehicles to sell. I asked and they said they currently had a 100 car backlog of cars that customer's are waiting to buy that are not yet available.

This is why I gave up on buying new as the make/model/color/trim level I wanted wasn't available. Toyota stopped manufacturing what I wanted for 2022 so I would have to wait for the 2023s to start rolling out. It wouldn't be available for many months to come, probably not until next year at the earliest.

They stopped short of trying to sell me all the extra undercoatings, clear coats, extended warranties etc etc. The person tasked with that sat down in the chair, asked me one question and then looked at me and said "I can tell you will say no to everything is that correct?"

Similar experience here. I expected more resistance when I told them that I would not pay for any add-ons, extras, extended warranties or fluff fees, but I guess they took me seriously. The finance guy never attempted, just showed me where to sign "decline" on every document.

Hopefully this car lasts us a good 9 to 10 years.

Same here. I also hope I'll still be able (and allowed) to drive in 9 to 10 years.

 

[brett]

Last time we faced that we made the decision to repair.

We had 110K miles on the car but loved it. Spent $1600 and drove it for another 60K. Had the repairs done by a private Toyota guy. Saved us some money.

Then gave it to our son a few years later because we downsized and did not need two cars.

Not such a great time to buy a car...new or used.

Tires and brakes are normal mtce items. If you are not doing anything other than routine mtce you are in good shape.

We have taken the exact same approach with our 2006 Accord and our 2007 Solara. But....I hate shopping and new cars do not really turn my crank. I would rather spend the money on travel or keep it invested in the market where it can appreciate vs depreciate.

 

[OldShooter]

... I expected more resistance when I told them that I would not pay for any add-ons, extras, extended warranties or fluff fees, but I guess they took me seriously. The finance guy never attempted, just showed me where to sign "decline" on every document. ...

Unlike most, I actually enjoy the negotiation process. In the rare event that I am buying and from a dealership, the first thing that happens is the F&I guy gives me the cost summary with tax, license, etc. I then proceed to cross out the preprinted "Document Fee" and recalculate the total. The predictable response is "What are you doing?" I simply explain that I already was given a price for the vehicle and will not pay more. I have various funny stories from that point but in the end they always cave.

 

[TheWizard]

I would not expect tires on a new car to last 50K miles... so far, of the last 5 cars I have owned 4 of them have needed new tires around 30K miles and the 5th just hit 20K so the jury is still out...

My 2016 F-150 has 70,000 miles on the original tires and I'm getting ready to buy a new set before too long...

 

[jimbee]

Unlike most, I actually enjoy the negotiation process. In the rare event that I am buying and from a dealership, the first thing that happens is the F&I guy gives me the cost summary with tax, license, etc. I then proceed to cross out the preprinted "Document Fee" and recalculate the total. The predictable response is "What are you doing?" I simply explain that I already was given a price for the vehicle and will not pay more. I have various funny stories from that point but in the end they always cave.

Yep, that is just a way for dealerships to legally advertise prices that are not real. Thank lobbyists.

 

[yakers]

Simple for me, try to keep my cars ‘forever’ /as long as I can, pretty much 10 +years before gifting to sons. DW gets a new one whenever she wants, fortunately not all that often.

 

[Sunset]

I would not expect tires on a new car to last 50K miles... so far, of the last 5 cars I have owned 4 of them have needed new tires around 30K miles and the 5th just hit 20K so the jury is still out...

I'm surprised as that is pretty poor endurance. Maybe your tires are all the performance type, or as your name suggests, maybe it's the Texas heat ?

My original tires last to 50K no problem, I generally buy tires good for 60->70K rating when getting replacements.

My current original vehicle tires are at 55K, I'm thinking of replacing them in about 3K miles as that will be before Winter.

 

[Sunset]

S...

Years ago my wife had a GMC Acadia. There are wheel speed sensors that when the car goes over 5 MPH they send a signal to lock the doors. The plastic cam to auto lock the doors at 5 MPH was cracked. So doors no lock car no go. What actually happens is that the car will go until you stop at a light or stop sign while in drive. When you take your foot off the brake the car will not move. A master mechanic friend and myself trouble shot this thing for literally weeks. He still uses that suv to tinker and train mechanics. That was 4 years ago.

That is a poor design.
Obviously the designer never considered driving over an ice road. When I'd drive ice roads (plowed roads over frozen lakes), I'd always unlock the doors and if it was not too cold lower the window. However, sometimes it was too cold so the window stayed up.
All of this is in case the car broke though the ice, you have to open the door fast or get out the window, once the water is against the doors you cannot open them.

 

[youbet]

Took over 60 days from the time we were "allocated' the car until we took delivery. Interest rates went up from 1.89% to 1.99% in that time. We decided to finance $14k and paid cash for the rest.

Were there other options other than cash to cover the non-financed balance?

Congrats on the new car!

 

[youbet]

Unlike most, I actually enjoy the negotiation process. In the rare event that I am buying and from a dealership, the first thing that happens is the F&I guy gives me the cost summary with tax, license, etc. I then proceed to cross out the preprinted "Document Fee" and recalculate the total. The predictable response is "What are you doing?" I simply explain that I already was given a price for the vehicle and will not pay more. I have various funny stories from that point but in the end they always cave.

Have you tried that recently? With other anxious-to-buy customers lined up behind you, negotiating has become more interesting.

 

[Telly]

I'm surprised as that is pretty poor endurance. Maybe your tires are all the performance type, or as your name suggests, maybe it's the Texas heat ?

My original tires last to 50K no problem, I generally buy tires good for 60->70K rating when getting replacements.

My current original vehicle tires are at 55K, I'm thinking of replacing them in about 3K miles as that will be before Winter.

In the DFW area, all/almost all driving is on concrete roads, and it seems concrete is much more abrasive to tires than asphalt. Years ago, there were still some asphalt roads on my way to work, only 2-lane roads more outside of built-up areas. But with the rapid growth here, they have all been replaced, many with 4 or 6-lane boulevard style. All concrete, of course. On the neighborhood side, I know of no asphalt residential streets anywhere here anymore.

Asphalt didn't last very long with our expansive clay soils. Soils shrinking and cracking dramatically in summer, and hopelessly water-logged and expanding in really wet weather. Asphalt would sink down in the tracks of tires, and mound upwards in the center between left and right wheels. One route to work years ago became so bad, lower cars would strike the hump and get damaged... like trans fluid out on the road in a big swath, leading to an unattended car sitting on the shoulder further down the road! Concrete, though significantly more expensive, has a much longer life here, if designed and built properly.

I found tire wear here to be significantly higher than the Chicago area. Now I drive so few miles yearly, that except for DW's car, which we use for trips too, tires age-out rather than mile-out. This really IS a case of "YMMV"

 

[VFK57]

I would surely go for repairs, especially that you drive no more than 5K per year. My wife and I also do not buy a new car unless it has over 100,000 or more miles. Of course if you have your budget well above of what you spent, including current inflation, and want badly a new car, than it is a different story.