Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

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HAHA!! I got the aircon working again in the Sprinter. The condenser sprung a leak and let all the refrigerant out. I bought a cheap vacuum pump (already had AC manifold and gauges), got a new condenser and did the swap. The only stumbling block I ran into was some galvanic corrosion that seized the low-side hose fitting to the condenser. In retrospect I should have simply bought a new hose, but instead I cranked out the condenser nipple with an impact wrench and spent an hour picking out the residual aluminum that remained stuck in the hose fitting.

It didn't chill quite as much as I would have liked at first, but I did a test of the engine cooling fan clutch and determined it was pretty weak. A new fan clutch got the cooler going as it should.

I'm really stoked that I did a successful AC job.

Nice work! I assume you ran a vac pump on it to get the air/moisture out before charging. Sometime the receiver/drier needs to be changed if the system is open for a while.

I just replaced my Mustang's compressor and drier. Now it's nice and cold here in very humid Houston.
 
I considered a brand name class 00 insulating glove for $45.20 and one of the cheap no-name brands for about $20. I even considered wrapping the handle of the screwdriver with a household latex glove. But I think I'll get an $8 insulated screwdriver and tape something conductive to the tip.

All you need is the common regular steel-shaft plastic-handled screwdriver. In fact, you could even use a screwdriver from the 1930s, the wood-handled type, if you didn't lean or touch any body part against the steel chassis of the unit while you shorted each cap terminal to common. And even in that case, if the wood handle did not have a steel end cap connected to the tip, or if the handle wasn't waterlogged, even that would work fine.

But if you are going to work on a KV entrance panel in a very large commercial building, then you should upgrade from the common screwdriver :D
 
All you need is the common regular steel-shaft plastic-handled screwdriver. In fact, you could even use a screwdriver from the 1930s, the wood-handled type, if you didn't lean or touch any body part against the steel chassis of the unit while you shorted each cap terminal to common. And even in that case, if the wood handle did not have a steel end cap connected to the tip, or if the handle wasn't waterlogged, even that would work fine.

But if you are going to work on a KV entrance panel in a very large commercial building, then you should upgrade from the common screwdriver :D

I'm too scared for that. I'm ordering "1000-Volt Insulated Long-Nosed Pliers" to pull the plugs after I short it. The plugs are kind of in the way and if I don't see sparks or hear pops I'm not willing to assume it's shorted.

The tank isn't looking so good either, but it's probably been like that for years.
 

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It looks like that tank has an oil stain. I wonder if oil is seeping out through the rusted metal?
 
I'm too scared for that. I'm ordering "1000-Volt Insulated Long-Nosed Pliers" to pull the plugs after I short it. The plugs are kind of in the way and if I don't see sparks or hear pops I'm not willing to assume it's shorted. ....

You are way, way, way, way over-thinking this. You commented earlier about worrying that an insulated screwdriver might have a blade that doesn't conduct enough. None of this matters. Any old plastic handled screwdriver will work.

You don't need anything special at all, just some basic precautions in case the capacitor has a charge on it (and it might not, most have bleeders on them, and it probably shut off during the low voltage portion of the cycle.

A 220V circuit has ~ 300 V peak (if it hit it just right, remember, this is AC, not a DC rectified circuit). A 300V circuit doesn't need any special insulation, and old plastic screwdriver is fine. And if you want to be super picky, follow the procedure of clipping the blade to ground, then shorting each lead and across the leads. That means the blade will never be more than a few volts above ground (I've done this to test engine ignitions, I didn't get a shock, and that's tens of thousands of volts).

As mentioned, as extra precaution, and good basic practice, keep one hand in your pocket, and don't touch the chassis or other ground with your body. You don't need special insulated shoes, or special gloves, just don't come in direct contact with metal.

Live stream it, we will all watch as this becomes an absolute non-event. And if you do everything wrong, and keep it plugged in and manage to get a shock (even that's not a certainty, even with it plugged in), we will call 911 for you.

You will be fine, just do it!

edit - if you can't get the screwdriver in there across the terminals, just use the screwdriver to shove some aluminum foil in there. Just get them shorted is all.

-ERD50
 
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^^^ What he said.
In the late sixties I worked on tube and CRT TVs. Around 10000 volts to CRT. Gotten zapped many times. Yes it did get my attention. Yet still here.
 
It looks like that tank has an oil stain. I wonder if oil is seeping out through the rusted metal?
That's a rusted compressor base, if the oil is leaking, likely the refrigerant is long gone.
 
You are way, way, way, way over-thinking this. .....
Live stream it, we will all watch as this becomes an absolute non-event. And if you do everything wrong, and keep it plugged in and manage to get a shock (even that's not a certainty, even with it plugged in), we will call 911 for you.

You will be fine, just do it!

edit - if you can't get the screwdriver in there across the terminals, just use the screwdriver to shove some aluminum foil in there. Just get them shorted is all.

-ERD50

:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL: .... now OP will be terrified... :LOL::LOL:


....
In the late sixties I worked on tube and CRT TVs. Around 10000 volts to CRT. Gotten zapped many times. Yes it did get my attention. Yet still here.

I used to pull apart very old TV's , just to see what made them work...
Was cautious of them, as I read out the high voltage possible.
Never got a shock, but was amazed at the weight and strength of CRT tubes.
 
Last night I kept reading that a fraction of an amp is lethal. It looks like my AC could kill me seven times over.

I added a recycled rubber mat to my cart.
 

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I used to pull apart very old TV's , just to see what made them work...
Was cautious of them, as I read out the high voltage possible.
Never got a shock, but was amazed at the weight and strength of CRT tubes.

They're so heavy because they have a lot of lead in them, to protect you from the radiation. That's one reason they're not allowed in most landfills.
 
Last night I kept reading that a fraction of an amp is lethal. It looks like my AC could kill me seven times over.

I added a recycled rubber mat to my cart.

230V @ 7 amps...I can't even run my shop air compressor at that low of a current draw.

You won't see the load amps just discharging the capacitor. Just drop a screwdriver over the contacts and be done with it.

Or just call an electrician and have him replace the capacitor. it's a 5 minute job.
 
I think my o-ring choice for the kitchen faucet would be controversial too. There are all kinds of rubber additives. Some make it not suitable for contact with tap water, others make the rubber more slippery, requiring less silicone grease when used for a spout that moves, etc. I chose the Delta "Pair of O-Rings" for $5.16. Things I like in the description are "Self-lubricating" and "Original Delta repair part enhances the product's longevity" and the name brand.


What I rejected was the majority of what I saw on Amazon as well as the Hillman O-rings (12 for $6.71) from my local big box store. Here's the Hillman description:


1-1/16 in. O.D x 13/16 in. I.D x 1/8 in. Thickness Neoprene 'O' Ring (12-Pack)

O-rings are one of the simplest, yet most engineered, precise, and useful seal designs ever developed. O-rings are ideal for myriad applications. DIY projects, plumbing services, and contracting work are made easier with Hillman O-rings. Sizes are specified by the inside diameter and the cross section diameter (thickness).

1/8 in. thick
Size - 13/16 in. x 1-1/16 in.
Fits various manufacturers
Rubber material

I don't like the wording of all that and I don't trust the material or the company. Paying the $2.58 each instead of the 56 cents each is a no brainer for me even though I hate that it's probably way over priced. I currently have a spare washer on my kitchen sink's spout with no lube and I think it should be way smoother than it is even without lube. I think the spare was from an aerator that didn't swing back and forth like a kitchen spout. I need to see "self lubricating" or words to that effect in the product description.
 
Last night I kept reading that a fraction of an amp is lethal. It looks like my AC could kill me seven times over.

I added a recycled rubber mat to my cart.

Stop it.

That's not how this works, that's not how any of this works.

Your A/C draws 7 amps, because that is what it is designed to do when connected to 230 V. That has nothing to do with that capacitor, and your body, while the AC is unplugged.

That's like saying you should not go into your building, because the building is thousands of times heavier than the weight that would crush you. It's just not relevant, it is a misapplication of information that you do not understand.

-ERD50
 
Stop it.

That's not how this works, that's not how any of this works.

Your A/C draws 7 amps, because that is what it is designed to do when connected to 230 V. That has nothing to do with that capacitor, and your body, while the AC is unplugged.

That's like saying you should not go into your building, because the building is thousands of times heavier than the weight that would crush you. It's just not relevant, it is a misapplication of information that you do not understand.

-ERD50

I know the AC isn't the capacitor, but the capacitor didn't have an amps rating and someone here said nothing residential could kill you.

A pet peeve of mine is when they say a certain shock, like from a stun gun, can't kill you. People die just sitting in their chairs because they have a bad heart or their body is weak from something. Just the fright could kill people.
 
I know the AC isn't the capacitor, but the capacitor didn't have an amps rating and someone here said nothing residential could kill you.

A pet peeve of mine is when they say a certain shock, like from a stun gun, can't kill you. People die just sitting in their chairs because they have a bad heart or their body is weak from something. Just the fright could kill people.
Then hire an electrician, and be done with it.

I estimate the chances of the electrician being a serial killer, and deciding you are his next victim, are higher than the chances of harming yourself from the charge (if any) in that capacitor if you just take the most basic of precautions. Or did I just add to your "things I'm afraid of" list?

-ERD50
 
Or did I just add to your "things I'm afraid of" list?


The stranger being a serial killer thing was already on the list. I rarely have to add things anymore. The last big one was when my joint compound made the low voltage box 1/8" deeper than code.
 
This is a plumbing problem... which became 2 of them..


First, one shower faucet was getting hard to pull and close... DW wanted me to call a plumber but it is not used that much so put it off...


Then the sink faucet started to leak... only 2 1/2 years old. DW would not wait so called the plumber... he fixed it for $150... SO, asked him to fix the shower also... he got up there and could not pull out the brass cartridge... said you had to replace the whole faucet...


Well, a few weeks later I decided to tackle the job... I had a cartridge puller (which the plumber did not for some reason)... it took some effort but the cartridge finally came out... now I am putting in the new cartridge and it does NOT want to go it... well, I used a little persuader and hammered it in... put all the stuff back together and..... crap, the new one LEAKS...


So, start the process over again... use the puller to remove the cartridge and guess what? It breaks and only the center part comes out!! Now I have the brass part in with nothing to pull it out with... lucky for me I had sprayed it with oil and with needle nose pliers and a lot of twisting and tugging it finally comes out... so, the rubber gaskets were all shot and not in the channels.... so much for generic parts...



Off to Home Depot to get a refund and a new cartridge... took 40 minutes to get my refund... when I went to get a cartridge they only had 2 and BOTH had been opened and taped back together... talked to the help and he said to tell the checkout person to take $5 or $10 off (guess which one I asked for :LOL:).... paid $12 for the Moen one..


Back home and put cartridge in pretty easily, put pin in and test it out... now nice and easy to turn on and off...


Total time was almost 3 hours due to the bad part...
 
Then hire an electrician, and be done with it.

I estimate the chances of the electrician being a serial killer, and deciding you are his next victim, are higher than the chances of harming yourself from the charge (if any) in that capacitor if you just take the most basic of precautions. Or did I just add to your "things I'm afraid of" list?

-ERD50

I got a "charge" out of this, so had to look.... :eek:

Dean Corll the serial killer electrician that killed 27 people.

WARNING : don't read the link if you are bothered by horrible people doing horrible things to others.

https://www.thoughtco.com/dean-corll-and-the-houston-mass-murders-973163
 
This is a plumbing problem...
.....

Off to Home Depot to get a refund and a new cartridge... took 40 minutes to get my refund... when I went to get a cartridge they only had 2 and BOTH had been opened and taped back together... talked to the help and he said to tell the checkout person to take $5 or $10 off (guess which one I asked for :LOL:).... paid $12 for the Moen one..

....

Moen cartridges are guaranteed for life. They will send you a new one free.

Same with some other faucet brands.

It helps to take and save a few photos of the receipt and box for years later, but they have never asked me for them.

Nice thing is, the official parts fit well. :)
 
Stop it.

That's not how this works, that's not how any of this works.

Your A/C draws 7 amps, because that is what it is designed to do when connected to 230 V. That has nothing to do with that capacitor, and your body, while the AC is unplugged.

That's like saying you should not go into your building, because the building is thousands of times heavier than the weight that would crush you. It's just not relevant, it is a misapplication of information that you do not understand.

-ERD50

I don't have an emoji for banging your head against the wall or I would place it here.
 
Nice work! I assume you ran a vac pump on it to get the air/moisture out before charging. Sometime the receiver/drier needs to be changed if the system is open for a while.

I just replaced my Mustang's compressor and drier. Now it's nice and cold here in very humid Houston.

It was a pretty recent failure, so I figured the system was still fairly tight. I ran the vac pump for about 90 minutes to ensure any residual moisture was boiled off.

I've been slow to tackle AC because I didn't have a total grasp of how the system works. But I've topped off a system repeatedly and didn't kill it, so I figured I should test my mettle with this condenser job. In the end it was probably easier than I made it out to be.
 
It was a pretty recent failure, so I figured the system was still fairly tight. I ran the vac pump for about 90 minutes to ensure any residual moisture was boiled off.

I've been slow to tackle AC because I didn't have a total grasp of how the system works. But I've topped off a system repeatedly and didn't kill it, so I figured I should test my mettle with this condenser job. In the end it was probably easier than I made it out to be.

Yes, auto A/C is not that difficult but you need to have a set of gauges and access to a vacuum unit. I rent a vacuum pump from a local auto parts store and they refund the "rent" when I bring it back.

The hardest job on an auto A/C is if the evaporator fails as that is usually behind the dash. I replaced one on granddaughter's 2010 Focus and it was an all day job. Had to pull the dash, drop the steering column, break a bunch of plastic clips, cut my hands, swear a few times and drink a few beers.
 
Starting at 1 min 17 sec, this pro gets a surprise from accidently starting up the AC while it's plugged in. So I guess that could have been the deadly amperage I was afraid of and not the capacitor's charge?

Then he unplugs the AC, discharges the capacitor, and uses my technique to unplug it -- with an insulated handle screwdriver (except I'd use pliers).

 
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