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Old 03-09-2017, 08:11 PM   #1841
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Oil in the cylinder will temporarily seal the rings but it won't help for a bad valve or a blown head gasket. I'd pull the head and take a look.
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:01 PM   #1842
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Thanks for the all ideas. The whole "pull the head" thing is maybe about more "fun" than I wanna have, lol! On the other hand, we can't have this be over all too quick, though. I mean, I could easily just drop by Lowe's and pick me up another mower, but how much fun would THAT be? I'll report back on the oil squirting. I may just tear this baby down, but not quite yet.
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:12 PM   #1843
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Upper oven is not keeping temperature. Replaced sensor ($25) but that wasn't it. More research and visit to local appliance fix it store confirmed it must be the control board. That is a more expensive fix AND it is no longer made for my year 2000 oven.

The local appliance fix it store told me they have had people use FixYourBoard | Control Board Repair before so I sent my board to them 4 days ago. It was listed on their site as one they now about and fix. It'll cost me about $150+$12+12 send/return shipping. Should be back in one week.
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:19 PM   #1844
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When my oven controller went out. I also thought it was the sensor. I was quite distraught because it's an in-cabinet model, and so I'd either need to find one that fit exactly, or get out the sawzall and make a huge mess. That, or pay more for the controller than the whole oven was worth. I had no idea about 'fix your board'.

But my good news: I found a similar model oven on Craigs list! I use all of our knobs, burners, surface, oven door, etc, since they were in better condition, but used the body and other "guts" of the Craig's list oven. Still cookin', and that was like 10 years ago!
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:39 PM   #1845
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Upper oven is not keeping temperature. Replaced sensor ($25) but that wasn't it. More research and visit to local appliance fix it store confirmed it must be the control board. That is a more expensive fix AND it is no longer made for my year 2000 oven.

The local appliance fix it store told me they have had people use FixYourBoard | Control Board Repair before so I sent my board to them 4 days ago. It was listed on their site as one they now about and fix. It'll cost me about $150+$12+12 send/return shipping. Should be back in one week.
I used a similar service to fix my speedometer cluster for my Trailblazer about 5 years ago, still working good.
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:30 PM   #1846
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Thanks for the all ideas. The whole "pull the head" thing is maybe about more "fun" than I wanna have, lol! On the other hand, we can't have this be over all too quick, though. I mean, I could easily just drop by Lowe's and pick me up another mower, but how much fun would THAT be? I'll report back on the oil squirting. I may just tear this baby down, but not quite yet.
Have you changed the spark plug recently. that could go bad also.
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:59 PM   #1847
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I have to wonder if you have eliminated the fuel delivery as an issue.
Perhaps the carb needs a rebuild, it can be as simple as replacing the rubber diaphragm
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:34 AM   #1848
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Have you changed the spark plug recently. that could go bad also.
Good point. I had a Harbor Freight pump that would only pop but not start and a new plug fixed it. Rotten original Chinese spark plugs!
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:20 PM   #1849
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The report back on squirting oil in the cylinder: didn't do much, if anything. That's kind of good news because it it made a difference, that would mean the engine would need to be torn-down.

The plug doesn't look bad to the eye, but I just ordered a new plug. I'll try replacing the plug. That's easy enough. Should be here by the next time I need to use the mower.
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:25 PM   #1850
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I have to wonder if you have eliminated the fuel delivery as an issue.
Perhaps the carb needs a rebuild, it can be as simple as replacing the rubber diaphragm
I just looked and I can get a whole new carburetor, delivered, for $10!
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Old 03-11-2017, 06:41 AM   #1851
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I just looked and I can get a whole new carburetor, delivered, for $10!
Make sure your muffler isn't blocked- excessive backpressure can cause the exact symptoms you're seeing. Take it off and try to start the machine, if it starts right up, your muffler is shot. Ps- it will be LOUD...
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Old 03-11-2017, 06:58 AM   #1852
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I used to tinker on engines for years, but now just bring it to the small engine guy for $25-50.00 and it's running good. There are always challenging things to do I'm better at, so I choose my battles.
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:55 PM   #1853
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Not so much a repair as a problem resolved. While changing the 9V battery on the Liftmaster garage door keypad, one of the terminals from the battery broke loose and stuck to the keypad connector. I could easily see braking the connector and having to replace the whole thing, so I took my time to remove it. About 35 minutes to pry it off, no damage , then reprogram the keypad.
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:59 AM   #1854
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Has anyone had to replace the plastic auger inside a GE refrigerator ice dispenser, easy job? Last week I noticed a small piece of plastic come out with the ice cubes then yesterday another small piece came out. It still dispenses the ice but looks like it's just a matter of time before it breaks apart.
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:53 AM   #1855
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Has anyone had to replace the plastic auger inside a GE refrigerator ice dispenser, easy job? Last week I noticed a small piece of plastic come out with the ice cubes then yesterday another small piece came out. It still dispenses the ice but looks like it's just a matter of time before it breaks apart.
Have you checked YouTube? There seems to be a how-to video for every common repair.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:51 PM   #1856
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It seems like the auger is ok but the tub is bad and I assume you can use your current auger with a new tub. Good thing you weren't using the crushed ice option. Check YouTube or an outfit called RepairClinic.
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:10 AM   #1857
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I crafted a really odd repair this past week. I have a 1970's vintage Console Organ, a Yamaha E-3 model. Been trying to play more lately (actually in anticipation of buying one of the new Hammond recreations), and the volume pedal just went out, stuck at low volume.

Took it partially apart and saw that they used a light bulb in it. I can see that the pedal has shutters that allow more/less light to sensors that are light dependent resistors, which are used to change the volume (no potentiometer scratchy sounds). There are two sensors, one for the upper keyboard, and one for the lower keyboard and pedals. They need two separate channels, as each keyboard can be routed to either the main speaker, or the built in rotary speaker.

Of course, the bulb is rather special (marked 24V5W - I assume 24 Volts and 5 Watts), and with shipping rather expensive to replace. I measured, and saw they ran it at 15V to extend the life of the bulb. So I decided to use 6 LEDs from a strip of LEDS designed for 12V operation. I did some math and guestimates to add a resistor to run them at 15V, and at approximately the same brightness as the bulb would have been, and wired them up so I could use them in place of the bulb.

Got it together, and the upper manual worked, but the lower was stuck at a high volume now! Hmmmm. Take it all apart again, further this time to get the sensor board out, and I find the photo-sensor element is a constant low resistance. Not sure why this went out at this time, maybe my handling during the other repair stressed it somehow?

But no markings on it, so I don't know what to replace it with. I find a bunch on amazon and other sources, but specs are all over the place, and I'd have to wait for shipping, maybe that wouldn't work, etc. I didn't really want to take the other one out to measure, for fear of damaging that in the process.

Then it hits me - those little light sensors in cheap night lights might work. I measure one that I had laying around, seemed to have a reasonable resistance light/dark range, so I removed it, soldered it in place of the bad one, and reassembled it.

It works! I think the lower manual is a little softer than before, but I can balance that with other controls - good enough.

I need to find a home for this thing, so I can get that Hammond. No market for old home organs, but this thing is too nice to send to recycling. I'm going to have to put some effort into donating it somewhere/someone.

-ERD50
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:25 AM   #1858
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I need to find a home for this thing, so I can get that Hammond. No market for old home organs, but this thing is too nice to send to recycling. I'm going to have to put some effort into donating it somewhere/someone.
Congratulations on the repair, that was a tricky one. Re: Finding a home for a useful thing--I had the same problem with my 1985 Camry. It had some rust, but still ran great with 250K miles on it, just the usual small issues (failing dashboard lights, iffy trunk release, intermittent heater blower, etc). It would be a great get-around car/daily driver for someone who needed it (that's how I used it), but I didn't want to give it to a young driver (no airbags, a small and lightweight frame, plus the expected ongoing need for small repairs. And, it had a manual transmission). Donating it to a charity wouldn't have netted us any tax benefits, and I still wouldn't know who was driving it.
Anyway, talking with a barber at the shop yesterday and he has a truck, but the fuel bill for it is hurting him. He's short on cash (recent divorce) , loves old Toyotas and Hondas, and is a gearhead. Super. I sold it to him for $100, gave him all my spare parts, and I'm sure he'll get good use out of it (which was the goal).
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:21 AM   #1859
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The toilet was acting wonky. I jiggled the handle. My knowledge of the inner workings of a commode begin and end with the handle. When you push that handle down........everything is whisked away. That's the way it's always worked since Thomas Crapper invented the thing.

I can get myself into serious trouble poking around with a pressurized water system......ask me how I know. I called a Plumber I know who works cheap, for cash only. (You wanna talk about a high return on the Cash Position in your AA -- my $40 would have cost at least a $200 check with any other Plumber.)

The line needed snaking and who has a snake ?? I declared success, not a drop was spilled. The sum total of my contribution to this repair was making the phone call and peeling off 2 Jacksons.
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:43 PM   #1860
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The toilet was acting wonky. I jiggled the handle. My knowledge of the inner workings of a commode begin and end with the handle. When you push that handle down........everything is whisked away. That's the way it's always worked since Thomas Crapper invented the thing.

I can get myself into serious trouble poking around with a pressurized water system......ask me how I know. I called a Plumber I know who works cheap, for cash only. (You wanna talk about a high return on the Cash Position in your AA -- my $40 would have cost at least a $200 check with any other Plumber.)

The line needed snaking and who has a snake ?? I declared success, not a drop was spilled. The sum total of my contribution to this repair was making the phone call and peeling off 2 Jacksons.

Well, I actually have two snakes.... a short one for the toilet and a 50 ft one... have used the short one a few times, but never the 50 footer... however, I think I will be using it on my sprinkler system as there seems to be a clog between heads that does not want to come loose...
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