Hoping to go to the Amalfi coast, what can you tell me?

[Freedom56]

In my opinion, next to Stresa and the Borromean Islands, the Amalfi coast is the nicest place to visit in Italy. It gets pretty crowded in during the summer months. We flew into Rome and picked up a rental car and drove to Naples where we stayed three nights and then drove down to the Amalfi. We stayed two nights at Hotel La Bussola in Amalfi. Driving in Naples can be challenging but something everyone should experience. Red lights are a considered a suggestion to stop. Other than some traffic in the villages, driving in Italy is pretty easy. There is a lot to see around Naples (Vesuvius, Pompeii, Pozzuoli) and Amalfi and having a car is much more convenient.

 

[larry]

Had a friend who owned a villa in Sorrento, stayed a week with them a couple years ago visiting Positano, Sant Agata.
Loved the area. Check out Nicki Positano here https://youtu.be/V3UQfFDmejs Love her vlogs

 

[socca]

I drove the Amalfi coast over 20 years ago in a rental car while on vacation. The car was on a long-term lease out of Nice, France where I was working at the time. I managed to scrape the car against the side of a cliff on one of the narrow, twisting roads - not one of my finer moments on the road . The rental car company wasn't too pleased when I returned the vehicle. I do remember some spectacular views, and also some large tour buses on the road that made driving fun.

My info is over 20 years old - I'm sure that there is much better stuff now available on the web. I am interested in returning to the south of France one of these days, but don't have any plans to head back into Italy at this time.

Have fun!

 

[Chuckanut]

Beautiful drive. We stayed at Sorrento, Capri, and Positano. That was 36 years ago in May and we drove there as an alternative to a planned visit to the northwest coast which was too cool. No reservations - we just called ahead a day before we arrived. We did that in Lake Garda, Verona, Venice, Florence, Amalfi, and Rome. I wouldn't try that now.

Be careful. Worse than getting Covid or being [-]trapped[/-] quarantined for weeks in a tiny apartment, you don't want to end up in this feud between Northern and Southern Italy. I suggest a high level of tactful ignorance of the dispute. Mi dispiace. Sono uno stupido americano. Non so niente di un buon caffè.

https://www.wsj.com/articles/coffee-clash-honors-for-espresso-divide-italians-11619018034?page=1

The cafe is part of a clash between Neapolitan coffee culture and that of larger Italy, both of which are seeking international recognition for their contributions to world coffee heritage. The rivalry has turned on them, however, after their competing bids torpedoed an attempt to earn acclaim from a United Nations agency.

Last summer, a video promoting the southern region of Calabria as a tourist spot stirred ire when it pitched northern Italy as unsafe for travel because of pollution and its Covid-19 case numbers.

Italy’s espresso market is worth an estimated 5 billion euros, but its importance in the culture goes far beyond that. Where else could you see someone’s ashes placed in a large model of the Moka stovetop espresso maker? That’s what happened in 2016 following the death of Renato Bialetti, the man (from the north) who made the coffee pot a symbol of Italian style across the world.

The spat boils down to a simple question: Who should get the honors for the espresso tradition, Italians or only Neapolitans?
To some, the wrangle is emblematic of a larger rivalry between Italy’s regions, with the south, which includes Naples, complaining that again it is being eclipsed by the powerful north.

 

[Coachdavo]

We have stayed at Hotel Margherita (https://hotelmargherita.info/en/) twice in the past 6 years. It is in the town of Praiano which is between Positano and Amalfi. The bus system from town to town is easy and it was nice to be in a quieter area 20 mins from Positano. If you are up for the walk of your life make sure you try the "Path of the Gods". We cheated and started at a high point in the trail in the town of Boomerano. The stairs from Praiano were brutal on a hot morning.

 

[brett]

On one trip to Naples/Amalfi we did a day trip to the island of Ischia. It is a short ferry ride from Naples. Took a local bus around the island, stopped in a few places. Very enjoyable. Nice change from Naples and from the crowded Amalfi coast.

 

[oiseux]

Late here, but like others we spent time in Sorrento, Capri and Amalfi. Took the ferries and the train, and a taxi or two. Capri and the coast were stunning and the food fantastic, and the ruins are a not-to-be-missed highlight. It was the peak of summer and the beaches in Capri were mind boggling packed in little patches of pebbles. Would enjoy going back in the offseason, just to live a while (but unlike other areas of Italy, have no interest in buying/renting long term as it is challenging logistically and can get really crowded).

 

[Eastbayboy]

We based in Sorrento and had a rental car. Easy access to Amalfi coast, Pompeii. Ferry to Capri leaves from Sorrento also. Stayed at the Grand Ambasciatori Hotel with fabulous view of water and walking distance to town and ferry. Jmho

We also based at Sorrento since we had access to all the sites. We took a bus to Positano and ferried back to Sorrento. Sorrento is a fun (somewhat touristy) but centrally located and mostly flat. Positano is great for a side trip as well Pompeii and Capri.

I am so anxious to go and travel again. Our last trip to Italy was in November 2019 for 3 weeks. We are waiting to see how Italy gets their vaccinations since they had some hiccups this year.

 

[urn2bfree]

Amalfi Trip proposed itinerary

So I am late to this thread but looking for insight and guidance as to whether my current plans are feasible, are too ambitious, or not ambitious enough, or any other thoughts from those with experience-
One point- rental cars seem both ridiculously expensive and probably not necessary so we are not planning to use them.
Plan is:
after a week in Rome in late May, take express train to Salerno in AM. Check luggage at hotel and take afternoon train to Paestum for ruins and museum there (? 3 hours total?)- return to Salerno for dinner and stroll along the lungomare and stay the night there.
Next am check out and take ?bus? Ferry? To Positano? Spend day and evening in Positano.
Next am take bus to Amalfi, spend am there, bus and lunch in Ravello, make way by bus? To Bomerano and hike back to Positano on the Path of the Gods
Next am check out and take ferry to Capri- spend day and night in Capri
Next day check out and take ferry from Capri to Naples. Dump luggage at hotel, sightseeing in Naples especially Archeological Museum.
Next am take train to Herculaneum (we were in Pompeii 30 years ago as a day trip from a cruise) rest of day back in Naples.
Leave the following day either fly from Naples or if it makes sense train back to Rome to fly home from Rome.

 

[rodi]

I'm exhausted reading this. You are spending a lot of time in transit to/from spots rather than *at* the spots. You are transferring your luggage multiple times.

I agree that rental car doesn't make sense for this itinerary.

 

[urn2bfree]

I'm exhausted reading this. You are spending a lot of time in transit to/from spots rather than *at* the spots. You are transferring your luggage multiple times.

I agree that rental car doesn't make sense for this itinerary.

I can see why you would say that, it concerns me, too…. but given the general recommendations I see that say to see Capri and Positano and Ravello, and maybe Paestum and Herculaneum, it is not clear to me how one can see even a sampling while staying in one place without spending considerable time getting to places. We could base in Sorrento or Positano and do day trips from that base, but it means limited time at the destinations and then “lost time” in transit in both directions with the need to return to home base after every trip. By moving we at least eliminate some of the going back and forth. Also at least the transit is sort of part of the attractiion - a ferry ride is scenic as is the drive from Positano to Amalfi - often considered one of the most scenic roadtrips in the world.
But if you have better itinerary ideas, please suggest them.

 

[Scrapr]

But if you have better itinerary ideas, please suggest them.

I would do a minimum of 2 nights in each town. IMO by rushing through you miss many of the essential reasons for travel. Meeting people. Every time you change hotels you are giving up a half a day. Check out of hotel: wake up early to get going....desk doesn't open until 8:00, go get breakfast in the lobby to save time. Eat breakfast in the lobby until the desk is staffed. Ooops...forgot the toothbrush...back up to the room. Now we are checked out....where is the car. Etc Repeat a few hours later checking in

With 2 nights there is at least one full day in town. Stroll around & find a cute shop that the kids would love. Instagram a picture. Eat a late breakfast on the square. Walk down to the pier & watch the boats. Strike up a convo with the Harbor Master. Learn something new.

but that's my style of travel. You can always come back & "finish" your itinerary

 

[Amethyst]

I love this. It is why I never really found satisfaction in group tours, even though they take care of all the pesky details.

I would do a minimum of 2 nights in each town. IMO by rushing through you miss many of the essential reasons for travel. Meeting people.

With 2 nights there is at least one full day in town. Stroll around & find a cute shop that the kids would love. Instagram a picture. Eat a late breakfast on the square. Walk down to the pier & watch the boats. Strike up a convo with the Harbor Master. Learn something new.

 

[Gumby]

We usually try to stay for a week in any single location just for that reason. I want to see a place in detail and not feel rushed.

 

[Jerry1]

Yeah, I’m not a traveler and when I see an itinerary like that, I understand why. That would be pure misery. Double your time traveling and slow down. Spend a few days at various places. I assume you’re retired and you have a bit of time on your hands. Seems like a good time to use some of it. Add a couple weeks to the trip and redo your schedule.

 

[Amethyst]

Something to bear in mind: When we lived in England, we were informed that across Europe, it is hard to rent a car if you are 75+. We had older friends who had to engage a driver for their hired car.

 

[urn2bfree]

I am retired and would love to add a few weeks. Sadly my wife who won’t retire can only take off 2 weeks maximum at any time.
I based my itinerary on one suggested by Frommer (They do it a bit differently but still do 2 nights in Sorrento one in Salerno and one in Capri with 2 in Naples. And throw in a hike around Mt Vesuvius to boot!)

https://www.frommers.com/destinations/campania/suggested-itineraries/in-one-week

Many other travel books make suggestions about moving about the Amalfi coast but leave out what you do with your luggage if you don’t have a rental car trunk to store it (and I would worry about being robbed if I had to do that)

 

[Plantman]

One thing I can tell you is the ferries don't always run. We were in Amalfi for three days back in October 2018 and the seas were so rough the ferries never ran the whole time. We used the bus instead. It's a beautiful area.

 

[jcfradio]

We usually try to stay for a week in any single location just for that reason. I want to see a place in detail and not feel rushed.

+1